New Car Technique

Doc,

I'm a big fan of RainX. I know a LOT of people don't, but I've used the stuff since the 60's and have really had no problems.

Side bar: REALLY like the new Outbacks. 'Other half' has a 2000, and that puppy has seen it all...rain, sleet and hail. They are like a Timex watch, take a lickin' and keeps on tickin'. Just wish the paint wasn't so darn 'soft'.

Bill
 
BillE said:
Doc,

I'm a big fan of RainX. I know a LOT of people don't, but I've used the stuff since the 60's and have really had no problems.

Side bar: REALLY like the new Outbacks. 'Other half' has a 2000, and that puppy has seen it all...rain, sleet and hail. They are like a Timex watch, take a lickin' and keeps on tickin'. Just wish the paint wasn't so darn 'soft'.

Bill
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Have you been able to keep it from "clouding" on the glass? I may be doing something wrong in my timing but never seem to be able to get the glass polished clear with it.
 
DrRon said:
Have you been able to keep it from "clouding" on the glass? I may be doing something wrong in my timing but never seem to be able to get the glass polished clear with it.
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That is what I was kinda talking about.

IF I do get clouding, I just re-wipe the surface (actually a 'buff' wipe) with a lightly damp (water) old t-shirt.

Maybe it just may be me, but after using the stuff for so many years, I actually don't think much about it. I first found this (RainX) in the service, we used it on helicopter windscreens.

I do NOT reapply all the time, just once a year or so. I'm not looking for constant repelling action, just a help. Make sense?

Oh, you are just using this on the outside?

Bill
 
BillE said:
That is what I was kinda talking about.

IF I do get clouding, I just re-wipe the surface (actually a 'buff' wipe) with a lightly damp (water) old t-shirt.

Maybe it just may be me, but after using the stuff for so many years, I actually don't think much about it. I first found this (RainX) in the service, we used it on helicopter windscreens.

I do NOT reapply all the time, just once a year or so. I'm not looking for constant repelling action, just a help. Make sense?

Oh, you are just using this on the outside?

Bill
Click to expand...

Yep, really just working the windshield during and after rain / snow.
I may be expecting too much but hoped I could "polish" or "seal" the glass to protect it from abrasion by the wipers and reduce etching by bugs and dirt.
 
BobbyG said:
Some great products that perform giving outstanding results try Duragloss 501, 601, and 105.

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I would like to give Duragloss a try and this seems to be the consensus of which products to use. Just curious, especially for a new or well maintained car, why you wouldn't use 601/105 followed by 601/111 instead? I believe the 105 is less aggressive than the 501 and the 111 is a pure sealant so it could be layered if desired.

Feed back please
 
DrRon said:
Yep, really just working the windshield during and after rain / snow.
I may be expecting too much but hoped I could "polish" or "seal" the glass to protect it from abrasion by the wipers and reduce etching by bugs and dirt.
Click to expand...

One thing I can offer is, before using RainX...the windshield must be CLEAN. I have used and continue to use a No-Touch product, Auto Glass Stripper. Pretty much available at most auto parts store. It is 'sloppy ' to use but it does work!

When I got a new windshield on 'her' Subby last year (thanks to a pheasant wanting to share my driving experiences) the new glass looked pristine. But after cleaning it 'proper like', you could actually see the difference.

As for wiper 'scrapes', I found that if it hasn't rained for awhile is to wipe down the rubber with a damp anything. Just to keep the gritty stuff at bay just in case you happen to accidentally hit the wiper button or similar 'oops'. Also, when washing the vehicles...wash the rubbers too.

Bill
 
the first thing to do in order to preserve the paint is to tell the dealership not to touch it.
 
I just left a local dealership, I was there ordering a license plate bracket. I was watching the guy washing the used car with a hose, a rag, and a bucket of dirty water. No soap!

Unless its a new non sudsing, non foaming, dirt colored soap they were using! They were spraying the cars down with a hose, then wiping them down with a rag. Rinse the rag in the water bucket, then move on to the next car.

No grit guard it seemed. The guy was washing an 06 BMW BSM wagon that was swirled all over when I walked over. I was actually interested in the car for a friend of mine, as the wagons are few and far between and he is looking for one. It was swirled all over and had a visible brown dirt / dust layer on it when he was "washing" it. Also, this wasn't a BMW dealer, not like it matters.

At the BMW dealer I saw a guy polishing a new(er) BMW with a DeWalt rotary with a filthy foam pad that had a huge chunk of foam missing out of the pad surface. It was like a dog used it for a play toy.

Off rant and back on topic. Griot's Glass Sealant is a great product. It's dirt cheap and available from AG. It has pretty good durability, as it works like crazy when you first apply it and seems to fade after the first month. Its kinda of like a professional improved version of RainX, which also streaks for me. Check out the Griots product to seal you glass. Or, if you want some that lasts longer (but costs more) the G|Technique glass sealant product probably is awesome, I have never used it though.

However, all dealers are not like this. But unless you know otherwise, don't let them "clean" or "prep" your new car.
 
Hey Ron,

I've been out of the country and finally have internet access....

Dual Action Polisher

Having a dual action polisher and some pads will ensure thoroughness and consistency in your finish maintenance and I can't think of a more worthwhile investment.

Even though your car is new the finish is still in need of some proper care.

Falling back on some of the basics..

Wash - Give your new car a complete and thorough washing just as you normally would. The wash need not be something specific or use strong detergents, just a quality wash at the recommended dilution ratio's.

Clay - Factory new paint sits outdoors collecting contaminates so the ideal approach is to give the entire finish a full claying..

Paint - At the very minimum I'd use a paint cleaner on each panel. The Duragloss 501 is a nice paint cleaner and has the added benefit of a sealant which leaves behind some level of protection.

For additional protection use both Duragloss 601 according to directions then top with Duragloss 105 for the ultimate protection without breaking the bank.

Any of these sealants work very well and provide some great protection to boot!
Sealants

I wouldn't worry about glazes right now. The new finish should be in pretty good shape so I think an easy correction is in store. Remember, glazes are only temporary so keep this in mind when you're thinking of using them.

Compounds, polishes, paint cleaners all can leave residue behind. Taping and care can for the most part eliminate the after clean up but this step is part of final inspection to ensure none of those unsightly deposits are left behind..

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is a hard permanent coating. It's important to polish the finish to a nice even gloss before applying Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0. It's an easy product to apply but be sure to follow the directions before doing so.

Even though Optimum Opti-Coat is a permanent coating it will wear over time. I'm not entirely sure what its durability truly is but like everything including the paint on your car it too has a life span..

Testing

Give yourself some time to get used to or comfortable with the various aspects of finish detailing. Once you're satisfied with your work then give Optimum Opti-Coat a try and you don't necessarily need to do the entire car. Work on one panel taking it through the proper preparation steps then apply the coating and see what you think.

For plastics and rubber, Ultima Tire & trim Guard is all over Aerospace 303 in terms of looks and durability. Another product that works very well id CarPro PERL...

I do like Aerospace 303 for dashes, door panels, and another interior surfaces but if I had to choose a more durable exterior product it would be Ultima Tire & trim Guard or CarPro PERL...
 
Hope you don't mind crashing this thread, but I'm about to purchase a Blizzard Pearl Prius and also want to get it off to the right start. I think you guys sold me on the DG 501 for paint polish/cleaning.

Which Sealant?
I'm a little confused on the the sealant protection. Is the DG 601/501 combo the best, or do you prefer one of the others you mention? If using a different sealant (e.g. Menzerna) do i need to combine with the DG601 to get it to bond?

BobbyG said:
For additional protection use both Duragloss 601 according to directions then top with Duragloss 105 for the ultimate protection without breaking the bank.

Any of these sealants work very well and provide some great protection to boot!
Sealants

Click to expand...

Backing Plate Pad Reco
I have a PC7424 to apply. I haven't purchased a backing plate and pads yet. What do you recommend I purchase to use with the above and for potential future use? How many of each pad?
 
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