New Car, what do? (first post)

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o1Kcx5f

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Hi all, I've been reading about the forums the last few days. Thought it might be time I made a first post to see if any of you would like to share some insight with me as to what I should do with a new vehicle.

The color of the vehicle is white metallic. What I would like to preserve the paint as best I can so that it will continue to look good later on (resale value, etc.) I'm not interested in putting in a bunch of work just so that it looks shiny. After inspecting the paint I've noticed no swirls, one paint chip, and lots of orange peal (see pictures). I don't think I'm experienced enough to deal with the orange peal, but the dealer gave me two sticks of touch-up paint and I'm planning to use them to deal with the chip (dealer-installed chip, that is).

The vehicle is driven off-road, so after a week or so a good bit of dirt accumulates on the exterior (especially the lift gate). I think just washing this might cause a lot of spider webbing (scratches) so how should this be dealt with? Don't wash it often? Is there a special method of dealing with this?

So far, from my limited knowledge of detailing (D. Taylor) I've pieced together this plan: a) wash, b) clay (meguiars), c) Menzerna Final Finish (not final polish), d) sealant (don't know which brand to get).

I'll also be using Meguiars off-the-shelf gold class for the shampoo with a cobra blue wash mitt. Cobra blue microfiber towels for the detailing and some hand applicators CCS Euro Foam Hand Polish Applicators, hand applicators, wax pads, foam applicators

I have a one-time budget for this of $200.00USD, and my supplies so far look like:

Meguiars Generic Spray Bottle 32 oz. $2.95
Meguiars Professional Detailing Clay $29.95
Cobra Miracle Towels 6 Pack $39.95
Meguiars Professional Masking Tape - 3/4 inch (18 mm) $3.95
CCS Euro Foam Hand Polish Applicator Trio $10.95
Menzerna Final Finish <-- need source for this
Cobra Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towel 20” x 40” $19.95
Cobra Blue Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt $9.95
[all prices are from superiorautocare.net]

Now, the pictures:
IMG_0456.JPG

IMG_0457.JPG

IMG_0461.JPG

IMG_0462.JPG
 
I would suggest a cleaner wax or all in one after claying. That will help take out or hide any minor blemishes. Then you're ready for sealant and/or wax.Most "final finishes" look better when done with at least a DA so I would suggest using menz powerlock selant or fuzion. There are other sealants but I can't recommend then since I haven't used them. I'm sure there are others here that will give you very helpful tips. By the way you may want to shop here because AG has a better selection than superior and the shipping is about the same.
 
You might wanna consider getting your microfiber towels and mitt from Wally World. They'll run less than half of the big brand name. And yes, they pass the CD scratch test. It'll save you money you can put into a DA.
 
I would change out those license plate screws to plastic or stainless if they aren't already. Nothing like rust stains on white. Also get some Iron X for cleaning areas where rust tends to start (badges, panels behind the wheels etc).

lessee what else?

Spray wax: Duragloss aquawax
Quick detailer: finish care 425 or a concentrate like optimum no rinse or detailer's pride

oh, and get a leaf blower to dry instead of toweling it off.
 
Scott DeBrun said:
I would suggest a cleaner wax or all in one after claying. That will help take out or hide any minor blemishes.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I'd have to disagree with you there. For a new finish or a finish in good condition you'd be best to stay away from a cleaner wax. Mike wrote about it in an article somewhere so I'll find it when I'm next on a computer. The idea was that cleaner waxes use chemical cleaners (and some all in ones use mechanical abrasives) to remove some paint. There is no need to do that since your paint has no swirls. The cleaning action could possibly marr the paint.

Personally I'd suggest DP poli- coat. I've been using this on the left hand part of the tailgate of my car vs Megiars Ultimate paste wax and it is KILLING the ultimate wax in durability.

Some people believe that if you have enough layers of wax on the car it can help reduce swirling. For me the jury's still out on that one although the idea behind it is sound. If you wanted to try that you could go down the route of Collinite Insulator Wax #845, otherwise, Ultima Paint Guard Plus (UPGP) is a very nice product (durable, easy to apply, economical, slick and shiny as hell).

As for cleaning, Meg's gold class is a very lubricating shampoo and should do a good job to reduce swirling so for a limited budget I'd stick with this. When it's covered in dust, give it a good blast with a stream of high pressure water first, if you have a pressure washer that'll be helpful, otherwise, a narrow hose nozzle with the tap turned to full will do. Letting the dust soak with water first will help to soften it up as well.

Hope I've covered everything and it makes sense as tapatalk doesn't have a preview post feature.

Regards,
Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk so please excuse any grammatical errors
 
o1Kcx5f, the runner looks great! I agree with the other posters here, a good sealant and wax will do wonders.

BUT!, you may want to spend some time on the Quarter you have in the picture. It can sure use some help. :-)
 
Midnight1700 said:
BUT!, you may want to spend some time on the Quarter you have in the picture. It can sure use some help. :-)
Click to expand...

I think a wetsand followed by megs 105, 205 and jeweled with 85rd topped with some fuzion

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk so please excuse any grammatical errors
 
you could go with wolf gang deep gloss paint sealant and poorboys natty wax white or you could save some money and go with collinite #845 which is a sealant/wax together and there has not been one bad report that i have read about it. if you have a DA or rotary i would maybe use menzerna po85rd instead of final finish which you really dont need any of those if you dont have swirls and stuff but a good wash and clay job with a sealant and wax would help you accomplish the result you are looking for. MAKE sure you dont use a dirty mit, towel, applicator and whatever else is going to touch your paint because you would be causing scratches!
 
Matt said:
Sorry but I'd have to disagree with you there. For a new finish or a finish in good condition you'd be best to stay away from a cleaner wax. Mike wrote about it in an article somewhere so I'll find it when I'm next on a computer. The idea was that cleaner waxes use chemical cleaners (and some all in ones use mechanical abrasives) to remove some paint. There is no need to do that since your paint has no swirls. The cleaning action could possibly marr the paint.

Personally I'd suggest DP poli- coat. I've been using this on the left hand part of the tailgate of my car vs Megiars Ultimate paste wax and it is KILLING the ultimate wax in durability.

Some people believe that if you have enough layers of wax on the car it can help reduce swirling. For me the jury's still out on that one although the idea behind it is sound. If you wanted to try that you could go down the route of Collinite Insulator Wax #845, otherwise, Ultima Paint Guard Plus (UPGP) is a very nice product (durable, easy to apply, economical, slick and shiny as hell).

As for cleaning, Meg's gold class is a very lubricating shampoo and should do a good job to reduce swirling so for a limited budget I'd stick with this. When it's covered in dust, give it a good blast with a stream of high pressure water first, if you have a pressure washer that'll be helpful, otherwise, a narrow hose nozzle with the tap turned to full will do. Letting the dust soak with water first will help to soften it up as well.

Hope I've covered everything and it makes sense as tapatalk doesn't have a preview post feature.

Regards,
Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk so please excuse any grammatical errors
Click to expand...
I was going off of personal experience about the cleaner wax and a new vehicle.It worked fine for me.
 
Matt said:
Sorry but I'd have to disagree with you there. For a new finish or a finish in good condition you'd be best to stay away from a cleaner wax. Mike wrote about it in an article somewhere so I'll find it when I'm next on a computer. The idea was that cleaner waxes use chemical cleaners (and some all in ones use mechanical abrasives) to remove some paint. There is no need to do that since your paint has no swirls. The cleaning action could possibly marr the paint.
Click to expand...

hand application of a cleaner wax marring and/or removing clear coat protected paint :confused:

hard to imagine cleaner wax could do any appreciable damage to a new vehicle.
 
Mike said something along the lines of this in a thread. I'lll find it for you when I get to a computer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk so please excuse any grammatical errors
 
thanks for the replies. I"m going to see if I can't save enough $$$ on other stuff so that I can get a DA. Perhaps there's a kit somewhere...
 
What are some of the manufacturers of good sealants? I'm willing to put some $$$ into a good sealant.
 
o1Kcx5f said:
What are some of the manufacturers of good sealants? I'm willing to put some $$$ into a good sealant.
Click to expand...
Have you even looked on the Autogeek store yet? Seems like you are missing out on the store site. If you are buying the Meg clay make sure it's NOT the aggressive, but the mild form. And buy a quality clay lubricant to ensure no marring occurs. It being newer paint have you checked to see if really needs claying? If it does, when you rub the clay across a spot you know is contaminated make sure you check the clay and remove any visible debris that has deposited into the clay; this will help prevent scratching/marring the paint. Remember that you don't need to apply much pressure when claying. Let the clay do the work. If you are working on a spot that is contaminated, work in that isolated spot as to not risk marring a clean area. Knead the clay often to achieve working with clean clay and keep it thin so you can feel the contaminants and know when they are removed/or see when you stop pulling up dirt.
If the vehicle is off road often then you should wash often with a quality car shampoo/conditioner. The longer you let the dirt/grime sit the harder it is to wash off and the higher the risk of instilling scratches. Utilize the two-bucket method to reduce the chance of scratches as well. Remember to always work clean at every stage of your detailing, especially the wash step. As soon as you get complacent you will start seeing scratches appear and being ticked. If you are using tap water(non-filtered water) to wash the vehicle, don't let the rinse water dwell or dry on the vehicle. Besides minerals in the water, tap water usually high in chlorine or some chemical used to kill anything in the public plumbing, and will dry out, fade and strip plastics and non-clear coated items. If you don't agree just look at older plumbing fixtures and see the corrosion. That being said, drying is important and the guzzlers are great for it. I wouldn't run out and by a leaf blower if you have a shop-vac. Just swap the hose over to the blow side and attach a crevice tool and blow the water off that way; make sure the vacuum is empty and the filters and hoses are clean to prevent any particles from possibly get on the vehicle. You can go back and spot dry any drips and sitting water, or do so while blow drying. Also, spraying a QD while drying helps increase the shine and lubricates the dry towel and any particles that might still be on the surface.
I would look into just using a paint cleansing lotion/pre-wax polish enhancing product if the paint is swirl free and has minimal scratching. This will also give a perfect base for any sealant/wax and is recommended for first time applications of sealants on any surface. If you are trying to remove any marring and want to add protection at the same time, then try and AIO like Klasse or even the Pinnacle XMT360. A glaze is a good option as well but some contain carnauba and may be more suited as a base for a wax, not a sealant. But, you can decide for yourself using the forum and AG store. It depends how often you want to have to apply a protectant and what gives you the results you are looking for.
Sorry for the long post, but I just really wanted to share. Hope something I typed is a little helpful.
God speed on your decisions and future detailing, and welcome to Auto Geek.
 
I'm also really confused about Menzerna products. I wouldn't mind trying them but I don't know which one of their polishes I should use for a new car. Is 85rd or 85u a "pure" polish?
 
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