New CG "Clean Slate" wax/sealant stripping soap

I'm not convinced it would strip any wax or sealant that still has lots of life left in it.

However, both their site and YouTube description don't claim to remove just any sealant or wax.

There is plenty of mention on 'old wax' and 'old protection' terminology used which gives me the impression they are implying near end-life products -- which this could do. Heck, I mean, CWG can do that, among other washes.

Not something I'll be trying (seems like just another hole to fill that doesn't need filling), but looking forward to the results from those who want to test it.

Any "soap" with a high PH will certainly diminish if not remove a wax/sealant. My reference to high PH would constitute a PH north of 12 if not 13. These products do exist, albeit mostly in the truck washing/TFR arena I believe. A caustic degreaser with some thickening agents would work perhaps.
 
I'm not trying to promote anything, but last weekend I washed my car with a super high concentration (I was being stupid generous) of citrus wash and gloss. When I did my pre rinse the water was beading right off since I did a thorough application of D156 2 weeks ago and sonax PNS 1 month ago, after using the foam canon and did my final rinse, the water clinged on like I've never seen before. I took that as stripping the wax. I was actually really pissed until I looked online and saw it does actually remove wax in high concentrations! Sure it wasn't a thick layer of protection, but there was definitely no wax or sealant left of the car. I personally don't doubt there's such things as wax removers and would imagine they're easy to make and should be very cheap.

Read through this thread from Auto Geek http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/66896-lsp-stripping.html It's been pretty much proven that soap based products don't remove LSPs. I've tested it myself on an 8 month old LSP with CG Red--this is the soap originally said to strip wax and sealant at a 1 oz/gallon dilution. I also added 1 oz of 3D Orange Degreaser/gallon to the mix--washed the car with a long dwell time and the beading was gone. After drying wiped the surface with IPA and the beading returned. The IPA removes the surfactants left behind by the soaps.
 
I've found that CWG can strip off a wax or sealant towards the end of its life when used at more than 1oz/gal, but I don't think it would strip a new coat of sealant

I haven't seen that at all. At dilutions higher than 1 oz / gallon it leaves a hydrophilic residue on the paint. Doesn't really remove anything.
 
Gentlemen,


Will any 'geek' seriously believe that 1 ounce of product in a 5 gallon bucket of (water) will 'strip' anything other than loose dirt and grime.

Any product that dilutes 1:640 in water that can still 'strip' an LSP probably shouldn't be on your hands.

Any product undiluted designed to strip wax/sealants/coatings would most likely dissolve the plastic bottle it was packaged in.

LSP's are hydrophobic, any product mixed in with water would most likely be repelled along with the water.

CG marketing isn't targeted at 'geeks', it's targeted at the lesser informed which is great at bringing in new users, which is fine.


In the video I thought the rainbows were pretty...



Steve
 
I haven't seen that at all. At dilutions higher than 1 oz / gallon it leaves a hydrophilic residue on the paint. Doesn't really remove anything.

Really? Wow I see no use for a product like CWG then. All it does in high concentrations is make the drying process really tedious since it holds so much water. What is the purpose of non ph neutral products then?
That was the one good thing I thought I had with my CWG. If it really can't remove wax in high concentrations then I might as well pour it down the drain (I love using a ton of soap in my foam canon). I don't think I've noticed this effect with other soaps though, so I'm thinking it may have something to do with the ph balance?
 
I can't blame others for feeling the way they feel regarding CG offerings, particularly their marketing practice.

Having said that, I've learned not to jump to conclusions anymore unless I've sampled the product(s).

Take Turtle Wax's tire coating kit, for example... Who would have thought anything "good" would be associated with the brand & gets the seal of approval from Geeks.
 
How does everyone explain how the sealant slickness is completely gone after washing twice with a CG Red and CG Strong Wash combo. Does the slickness come back after your IPA wipe down? NO!

And who said that clean paint does not bead? How does clean paint cause the water to have no surface tension? It doesn't. If anything it would have more surface tension because of the impurities on the paint have been removed and not breaking up the surface tension allowing the bead to form and not go amoeba like.

Most all of the tests done are on freshly applied sealants. I practically never try to strip freshly applied sealants. They are always cars with no sealant/wax, some lame sealant applied at the auto car wash or at best an OTC spray wax. On my own cars it has been months and the sealant has lived its life.

Don't forget the main reason is to totally degrease the paint, which these things do. So you not wasting anything by using a degreaser that is paint safe.

And how is claying and polishing where you are abrading the paint and removing some of it safer than a strong wash
 
Really? Wow I see no use for a product like CWG then. All it does in high concentrations is make the drying process really tedious since it holds so much water. What is the purpose of non ph neutral products then?
That was the one good thing I thought I had with my CWG. If it really can't remove wax in high concentrations then I might as well pour it down the drain (I love using a ton of soap in my foam canon). I don't think I've noticed this effect with other soaps though, so I'm thinking it may have something to do with the ph balance?

Varying pH levels in products are useful for different applications. Waterspot removers, tar removers, and among other solvents all have there place, but I believe shampoos should always be pH neutral.

Chemical Guys shampoos are highly concentrated, so if you feel comfortable using them at the 1oz per bucket that they advertise that can be seen as highly useful if you're a mobile detailer. That's extra space saved for sure if you're doing multiple jobs a day - you could fit you shampoo in a 16 oz bottle! However, using it in higher concentrations really doesn't do much in cleaning ability.
 
How does everyone explain how the sealant slickness is completely gone after washing twice with a CG Red and CG Strong Wash combo. Does the slickness come back after your IPA wipe down? NO!

And who said that clean paint does not bead? How does clean paint cause the water to have no surface tension? It doesn't. If anything it would have more surface tension because of the impurities on the paint have been removed and not breaking up the surface tension allowing the bead to form and not go amoeba like.

Most all of the tests done are on freshly applied sealants. I practically never try to strip freshly applied sealants. They are always cars with no sealant/wax, some lame sealant applied at the auto car wash or at best an OTC spray wax. On my own cars it has been months and the sealant has lived its life.

Don't forget the main reason is to totally degrease the paint, which these things do. So you not wasting anything by using a degreaser that is paint safe.

And how is claying and polishing where you are abrading the paint and removing some of it safer than a strong wash

I'll approach this backwards by first addressing the bolded section.

Polishing paint with a very fine polish such as whatever Menzerna SF4500 is called nowadays will remove very, very little paint. You could alternatively use something such as Duragloss Squeaky Clean with blue or black pad if you wanted to remove even less paint. I’m always going to use some abrasive after claying paint though, because claying is abrasive as well.
You mentioned degreasing the paint, which I believe is extremely important as well. I always use IronX and Tarminator before I start claying so I do as little damage to the paint as possible. It also makes the claying process easier any way.
CG Red may be able to strip some weak waxes or some weak filler, but for the most part it’s not going to “strip” anything more than a regular soap. Marketing plays a strong role in the use of the word “strip” because we need to “strip” the paint bare before we polish a car. The thing is, we will accomplish nothing more using something like CG Red than we would Megs Gold Class or Duragloss 901 because we are still claying, then polishing afterwards any way.
 
Any "soap" with a high PH will certainly diminish if not remove a wax/sealant. My reference to high PH would constitute a PH north of 12 if not 13. These products do exist, albeit mostly in the truck washing/TFR arena I believe. A caustic degreaser with some thickening agents would work perhaps.


My exact point from my post - so I agree!

I highly doubt they came out with a shampoo that has such a high pH.

Who knows, though. Still doesn't change the fact I won't be using it. Like I said before, if anyone does, I'd be interested to hear the results!
 
New product from chemical guys that supposedly strips wax and sealants. After all the talk I have seen on this site about how polishing is the only true way to remove wax and sealants, what's everyone's take on this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4MdlKJtil8
save your cash and get d120 megs glass cleaner,it will strip like you wouldn't believe.coated a brandnew porche suv on Sunday using d120 with zero promblems.way more effective than eraser.
 
save your cash and get d120 megs glass cleaner,it will strip like you wouldn't believe.coated a brandnew porche suv on Sunday using d120 with zero promblems.way more effective than eraser.

Did you attempt to strip residual surfactants from d120 to confirm there was no protection remaining?
 
save your cash and get d120 megs glass cleaner,it will strip like you wouldn't believe.coated a brandnew porche suv on Sunday using d120 with zero promblems.way more effective than eraser.

No kidding!? At what ratio? I have a nearly full gallon of the stuff collecting dust. I'm definitely going to give this a shot. Thank you for the tip!
 
Any "soap" with a high PH will certainly diminish if not remove a wax/sealant. My reference to high PH would constitute a PH north of 12 if not 13. These products do exist, albeit mostly in the truck washing/TFR arena I believe. A caustic degreaser with some thickening agents would work perhaps.
anything with a pH of 13-14 will cause a chemical burn. Skin necrosis doesn't occur with just acids, strong bases will also burn.
 
Some of the techs at meguairs used this process.Its alcohol based product.last truck I did was a porche mucan last Sunday before coating it.I dilututed 70/30. Using full strength is like no other product,5 times stronger than eraser.I found this little trick 4 months ago.google d120 wax removal for car.
 
Some of the techs at meguairs used this process.Its alcohol based product.last truck I did was a porche mucan last Sunday before coating it.I dilututed 70/30. Using full strength is like no other product,5 times stronger than eraser.I found this little trick 4 months ago.google d120 wax removal for car.

Good to know! Thank you! :props:
 
Ya if this stuff can strip wax and sealant as easy as video looks, that guy wouldn't have any skin left on his hand.
 
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