new cutting compound

[prin]

So recently, I have been doing a lot of cutting. So, I have been using M105 and also their microfiber system. I really don't like the microfiber pads due to them being so thin. What alternative are you guys using? Im looking for something that wont dust too much as well.

 

[The Guz]

Sonax Cut Max is a great compound. I have experienced no dusting the times I have used it. Meguiar's D300 is another good compound that works well with their microfiber pads and has very little dust.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Have you tried Meguiars D300 Microfiber Correction Compound?

 

[Paul A.]

I would try M100 or Menzerna HCC400. I have also been impressed with the videos and reviews of Sonax Cut Max but have not tried it myself yet.

 

[Desertnate]

Sonax Cut Max is a great compound. I have experienced no dusting the times I have used it. Meguiar's D300 is another good compound that works well with their microfiber pads and has very little dust.

Does Cut Max finish out LSP ready on hard paint? On hard VW paint, 04-06 leaves a nice shine doesn't have enough cut to remove swirls and I'm not sure Cut and Finish will be agressive enough either.

 

[dlc95]

Maybe try the Buff and Shine orange/black microfiber pads, or the Griot's fast FINISHING pads (not the BOSS). They're both taller than the Meguiar's, and have great cut.

Ultimate Compound and D300 work great if you want less dust than M105. M100 very is good, but will dust more than UC/D300.

 

[MattyL]

Megs m101.

It will dust a little, but definitely tolerable. The cut is for real (significantly greater than m105 in my experience), and I can finish out LSP ready on harder paints w/close to 100% defect removal.

For instance, combos I recently/currently used (panel by panel experimenting) on a new to me 2000 M5 w/hard clear, heavy wash swirls, and RIDS:

• BlackFire Pro Compound (New)/LC Blue Hybrid Wool on Flex Rotary (1500 rpms) -> 70-75% defect removal-> no dusting -> minor hologramming

• *Griot’s Fast Correcting Cream/Griot’s MF on GG21 (Speed 4.5) -> 85-90% defect removal -> no dusting -> no DA hazing

• M100/LC Blue Hybrid Wool on Flex rotary (1600-1800 rpms) -> 70-75% defect removal-> medium dusting-> minor hologramming

• M100/LC Blue Hybrid Wool on Flex rotary (1600-1800 rpms) -> 40-50% defect removal-> medium dusting-> minor hologramming

• *M101/Griot’s 3” MF pad on GG6 (speed 4) -> 95-100% defect removal-> minor dusting-> no DA hazing. Confident it would perform as well on a larger pad, though.

• M105/CarPro Flash pad on Flex rotary (1600-1800 rpms) -> 80-85% defect removal-> low-to-medium dusting-> minor hologramming-> pleasantly surprised with this combo, though the pad was a 3” pad (easier to control; the larger Flash pads may “hop” on the rotary)

• M105/LC Blue Hybrid Wool on Flex rotary (1600-1800 rpms) -> 80-85% defect removal-> low-to-medium dusting-> minor hologramming

• *M105/B’nS Uro-wool on Flex rotary (1600 rpms) -> 85-90% defect removal, low-to-medium dusting, minor hologramming-> pad shed significantly in the beginning, but the pad was very smooth while operating

• Optimum Hyper Compound (latest formula)/Blue Hybrid Wool on Flex Rotary (1600 rpms) -> Little to no defect removal-> WORST dusting product I have ever used, in spite of its claims of never dusting-> significant hologramming-> product separates overnight, EVERY time after I use it

• Pinnacle Advanced Compound/Gray LC Force Hybrid on Flex 3401 (Speed 3.5-4, i.e. SMACK method) -> 70-75% defect removal-> no dusting-> little-to-no haze/hologramming

Starred combos are what worked best for me on this (hard) BMW clear. I’m sure on softer clears you will get more effective defect removal, however. I seem to only work on or own cars with hard clears that require very aggressive combos to see any significant progress.

Any hologramming was easy to clear up w/a short polish session afterwards using HD Polish+, 3D HD 502 AAT CarPro Reflect, M205, etc., though the paint is silver, so I don’t know if this would hold true for blacks or dark blues.

 

[Finick]

•Optimum Hyper Compound (latest formula)/Blue Hybrid Wool on Flex Rotary (1600 rpms) -> Little to no defect removal-> WORST dusting product I have ever used, in spite of its claims of never dusting-> significant hologramming-> product separates overnight, EVERY time after I use it.

I’ve never used this product. But listening to the optimum podcast they always stress the pad washer is an essential part of the optimum polishing process. Did you use a pad washer to dampen to pad with ONR?

I believe the ONR acts to keep the dusting down and possibly provide better lubrication for the abrasives. I’ve seen on their Facebook group people get less than stellar results sometimes with the hyper twins and one of the first questions is usually “do you have the pad washer.”

They also recommend some stainless steel nuts/bolts in the bottle to help mix it up after it sits for a little while.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dr Oldz]

I think SONAX Cutmax is the best compound on the market. Has the best cut, zero dust, easy wipe off and you can work it forever. Finishes really well for a compound that can remove some serious defects as well. I believe they have some kind of magic abrasives in that stuff.

 

[MattyL]

I’ve never used this product. But listening to the optimum podcast they always stress the pad washer is an essential part of the optimum polishing process. Did you use a pad washer to dampen to pad with ONR?

I believe the ONR acts to keep the dusting down and possibly provide better lubrication for the abrasives. I’ve seen on their Facebook group people get less than stellar results sometimes with the hyper twins and one of the first questions is usually “do you have the pad washer.”

They also recommend some stainless steel nuts/bolts in the bottle to help mix it up after it sits for a little while.

I dampened the pad, initially, with (x2) sprays of BF Pad Conditioner and spurred the pad after every section, which usually consisted of ~5 passes, and added another spray of the conditioner before moving on. The pad was always clean for each section and did not appear to be over saturated w/product. It would literally not correct at all and just leave hologramming. Wasn't happy in the least bit, considering I spent $30 to purchase.

Now Hyper Polish and Polish II, are exceptional products. Polish II is probably my favorite abrasive that I own, considering the cut it gives for a polish, the absolutely fantastic gloss it imparts with the right pad, and the ability to consistently finish down hologram-free on a rotary. Didn't like Compound II either, but I believe it was formulated to work best with a rotary, which I did not possess at the time I owned Compound II, so that may have played a role in my dislike for the product. From what I recall, it lacked cut.

Having to buy their $180 pad washer just to use a compound? Nope, sorry. However, I will change some variables around (lower rpms, less product, smaller working area, shake with SS hardware in bottle) and see what happens. I hold the Optimum brand in high esteem because of some of their other products, so I WANT the Hyper Compound to work.

 

[Finick]

I dampened the pad, initially, with (x2) sprays of BF Pad Conditioner and spurred the pad after every section, which usually consisted of ~5 passes, and added another spray of the conditioner before moving on. The pad was always clean for each section and did not appear to be over saturated w/product. It would literally not correct at all and just leave hologramming. Wasn't happy in the least bit, considering I spent $30 to purchase.

Now Hyper Polish and Polish II, are exceptional products. Polish II is probably my favorite abrasive that I own, considering the cut it gives for a polish, the absolutely fantastic gloss it imparts with the right pad, and the ability to consistently finish down hologram-free on a rotary. Didn't like Compound II either, but I believe it was formulated to work best with a rotary, which I did not possess at the time I owned Compound II, so that may have played a role in my dislike for the product. From what I recall, it lacked cut.

Having to buy their $180 pad washer just to use a compound? Nope, sorry. However, I will change some variables around (lower rpms, less product, smaller working area, shake with SS hardware in bottle) and see what happens. I hold the Optimum brand in high esteem because of some of their other products, so I WANT the Hyper Compound to work.

I really can’t offer any specific advice or anything; just what I’ve heard a bunch of times on the podcast.

-Yvan always recommends compounding at the slowest speed your rotary can go
-one spray per section
- I don’t believe the pad washer is “necessary” as in the Facebook group sometimes hobbyists ask if they can just spray the pad with ONR from a spray bottle to accomplish the same thing and the answer is usually yes. I think the pad washer just fits in win their “system” approach, which helps efficiency.

I guess the only thing I’d say is if you have ONR, I’d mix some up and saturate the pad with it and then spin it dry and see how it works like that.

Episode 9 of the Optimum Synergy Podcast is about the hyper paint correction system, and that would probably be something you may wanna try listening to for tips. I’ve never used the compound so I don’t wanna pretend like I know what I’m talking about


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I think SONAX Cutmax is the best compound on the market. Has the best cut, zero dust, easy wipe off and you can work it forever. Finishes really well for a compound that can remove some serious defects as well. I believe they have some kind of magic abrasives in that stuff.

Hey Jim, I agree with you. Awesome stuff. Do you ever use it with MF pads?


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app

 

[Dr Oldz]

Hey Jim, I agree with you. Awesome stuff. Do you ever use it with MF pads?


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app

Hi Mark!
Honestly I have not. If something is in need of serious correction, I tend to just grab wool with it on the rotary or a foamed wool on a forced rotation. But 9 out of 10 times I think it cuts so well that a cutting foam pad works great on whatever machine you choose. I try to stick to foam when possible because, generally speaking, it makes the follow up step easier. Plus the long working time allows it to achieve the level of correction you are after. Am I making sense?

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Hi Mark!
Honestly I have not. If something is in need of serious correction, I tend to just grab wool with it on the rotary or a foamed wool on a forced rotation. But 9 out of 10 times I think it cuts so well that a cutting foam pad works great on whatever machine you choose. I try to stick to foam when possible because, generally speaking, it makes the follow up step easier. Plus the long working time allows it to achieve the level of correction you are after. Am I making sense?

Yep, I totally get you!


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app