NEW! DP Paint, Wheel, & Glass Coatings + Coating Prep Polish!

[MarkD51]

Well, I'm going to use what I have on hand, as I'm not ready to again place any orders with AG-Autopia.

My Kia Spectra "junkmobile" daily driver doesn't need much in the way of correction, just some form of stripping to prep the paint for the coating.
Maybe I'll do a wash with Dawn, then Clay with Pinnacle Blue, and many areas on the vehicle I'll probably polish by hand, and I'll see how Menz SF4500 works in such a manner.

My largest concern will be even application with no streaking, be able to apply it, without using 1/2 a bottle. If I can get an honest 6-9 months protection through till the spring of next year I'll be happy.

Truth be told, I've thrown more products on this junker Kia in 6 months time, than I did on my '67 White Stingray in an 8 year period.
Mark

 

[VP Mark]

If you are using more than 15 sprays for a car you are probably using too much.

You can also feel your pad. If it is still damp, there is still product to be applied.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online

 

[tommythecat]

Did the hood of my car today. I used better lighting and my car is a darker grey color. Used MUCH less product than on the white Camaro in poor lighting. I feel I was still using too much but did my hood in 8 spritzes.

One weak point I would like to point out is the bottle/spritzer. After you use a little product you can't tip the bottle at all or you get a weak spray. Easy to work around (just hold the bottle upright) but can lead to overspray that you might not catch. I just made sure that each time I buffed I went over a considerably larger area than where I applied the coating.

-Tom

 

[Nick McKees37]

Truth be told, I've thrown more products on this junker Kia in 6 months time, than I did on my '67 White Stingray in an 8 year period.
Mark

I bet that's one good looking Kia. :buffing:

ostpics:

 

[MarkD51]

View attachment 20276

View attachment 20277

View attachment 20278Nick/All,
I was in a virtual "Living Nightmare" yesterday, with removal of Sap from the Kia with a variety of Clay Bars. I've actually clayed cars that were almost totally trashed, that didn't work me like this car did yesterday.

I spent a good part of the morning, and afternoon, getting off what I believe was Italian Cypress Sap, I have two 50 footers in the neighbor's yard, about 70' away from the car. A "skinny derivative" of a Pine Tree no doubt. I have to find an easier way in the future, and might try something like Duragloss #471, and see how that works?

The car was entirely coated, like somebody walked around the car with a spray gun filled with Pine Sap, every square inch, the glass, everything.

This morning, I did a super quicky with Menzerna SF4500 with the PC, a 3.5" LC Backing Plate and a Red LC 4" Flat Pad. You could say I "Waxed" the Kia with the SF4500, because I went ultra fast, there was very little in the way of correction being needed, and I flew around the car, took me maybe under 2 hours at most.

I did like I said I would after Polishing, a quick wipe down with CP Eraser after Polishing. All looked good, and the paint appeared ready to apply the Detailer's Paint Coating.

Using a new small Yellow Foam Applicator which probably came with some other AG product I bought in the past, I found the coating quite testy, and sort of difficult to apply. The product flashes virtually instantly on the paint, there seems to be little to no work time, and as others have noted, there's evidently some sort of Alcohol used as the carrier agent-solvent for this product.

I kept reminding myself "thin thin thin", lest I use 1/2 the bottle on this small car. The Pad also never seems to get anywhere near wet, or even "damp". It is more difficult than any WOWA I have used.
As I kept spreading, and trying to overlap, and get complete coverage, I kept massaging the product in, and sort of seen a little bit of hazing film.
I felt this sort of helped find where I was at, and continue from that applied area.

It seemed like it did take an awful lot of product, as I probably used 10-12 spritzes on the entire hood and roof. I might have over applied, but again, it is a somewhat difficult product, and perhaps a future formula could have some additive added (Polycharger, or such?) to aid its spreadability, and working time.

And as others have noted, quite a bit of hard drag on the foam applicator. The words "glide, smooth, easy, effortless" just didn't apply in this case. The drag seemed like I was trying to apply one of the hardest paste waxes you could ever encounter.

The instructions are vague, and not much explations about times to apply, and then wipe. I did the entire roof, then went back about 5 minutes later with a clean plush MF Towel. It took a couple wipes, and was eliminating the high spots, and slight streaking.

Not uncommon with the WOWA's I figured, and no more difficult than say a product such as UPGP to even out.

But, from one extreme to the other this product went. From dragging like you were spreading thick Honey on the paint, the MF Towel was gliding across the surface like I just coated the paint with Teflon-PTFE.

Flipping the towel, the look was evening out, the paint was feeling slicker and slicker with repeated wiping with the Towel. Man, this stuff is slick!

How slick? Well, about the most recent "slick" products I have used on the Kia's paint, the previous crown went to Menzerna Powerlock, which I felt was even a tad bit slicker than WGDGPS 3.0. This Paint Coating I felt was the slickest product I've used in more recent times.

As for the look. Well, not to be at all shamed, after once doing the car with the WG Twins, and WGDGPS 3.0, (which is absolutely no slouch combination) it seems to look pretty close to the same, looking slick like a wet candy apple.

If the paint retains this slick slippery feel-touch after some washes, I'll be a darn happy man.

There's lots of unknowns, and questions I have about the product which I of course cannot answer. It seemed to work me a bit harder than some of the WOWA's I've used, like Opti-Seal, UPGP, WGDGLS, but if the longevity of the product is better, then I think the little bit more of extra time will be worth it.

Questions I cannot answer, and have, is the product like other Sealants, and WOWA's, that one should hopefully not wet the finish for a period of say 12 hours?

Here's some pics. (Yep I know, horrible shooting in broad daylight)
Mark

 

[TroyScherer]

Ok, I am still intrigued and have a few questions.




1. Is there any UV protection built into the product? If so how much?

2. Is there any measurable film build like with OC? I actually like using OC but this stuff looks even easier, just like my current WOWA product on my car WG DGLS & BFCS. (BlackWolf)

3. How slick are these coatings? I usually don't want to wax over coatings to get the best of their characteristics.

4. Is there any claimed scratch resistance?

5. What is the wiper abrasion resistance for the glass coating? I have a wife who thinks she always has to run the wipers and it kills glass sealants and makes the windshield a mess...

6. Is there any problem with re-applying 6-9 months later to add additional layers? What would the process be, if you can without stripping the previous application?

7. Any chance of getting a nano glaze / filler like Wolfs has to fill in minor stuff and work in conjunction with these coatings?

 

[MarkD51]

Ok, I am still intrigued and have a few questions.




1. Is there any UV protection built into the product? If so how much?

2. Is there any measurable film build like with OC? I actually like using OC but this stuff looks even easier, just like my current WOWA product on my car WG DGLS & BFCS. (BlackWolf)

3. How slick are these coatings? I usually don't want to wax over coatings to get the best of their characteristics.

4. Is there any claimed scratch resistance?

5. What is the wiper abrasion resistance for the glass coating? I have a wife who thinks she always has to run the wipers and it kills glass sealants and makes the windshield a mess...

6. Is there any problem with re-applying 6-9 months later to add additional layers? What would the process be, if you can without stripping the previous application?

7. Any chance of getting a nano glaze / filler like Wolfs has to fill in minor stuff and work in conjunction with these coatings?

To perhaps answer some of your questions, and others mileage might slightly vary, I would think adding any product over this Coating would detract from the slick slippery feel it has.

As for scratch resistance, well a tumbleweed flying at 40mph across the road and colliding with the car, typical of New Mexican Winters, nothing's going to protect.

I note very little to none in the way of "filling" minor imperfections. What's there before will be there after, it doesn't seem to have any inherit hiding-filling qualities.

But, I did do a brief "scratch test" on my paint with my fingernails. Nada. Not a mark left, zero. Although ultra slick, and slippery, it also appears to be a quite hard coating and finish.

I of course cannot tell anyone yet about beading, or longevity. Time will tell, and I'll report back when I have further findings

 

[bcwang]

Using a new small Yellow Foam Applicator which probably came with some other AG product I bought in the past, I found the coating quite testy, and sort of difficult to apply. The product flashes virtually instantly on the paint, there seems to be little to no work time, and as others have noted, there's evidently some sort of Alcohol used as the carrier agent-solvent for this product.

I kept reminding myself "thin thin thin", lest I use 1/2 the bottle on this small car. The Pad also never seems to get anywhere near wet, or even "damp". It is more difficult than any WOWA I have used.
As I kept spreading, and trying to overlap, and get complete coverage, I kept massaging the product in, and sort of seen a little bit of hazing film.
I felt this sort of helped find where I was at, and continue from that applied area.

It seemed like it did take an awful lot of product, as I probably used 10-12 spritzes on the entire hood and roof. I might have over applied, but again, it is a somewhat difficult product, and perhaps a future formula could have some additive added (Polycharger, or such?) to aid its spreadability, and working time.

And as others have noted, quite a bit of hard drag on the foam applicator. The words "glide, smooth, easy, effortless" just didn't apply in this case. The drag seemed like I was trying to apply one of the hardest paste waxes you could ever encounter.

The instructions are vague, and not much explations about times to apply, and then wipe. I did the entire roof, then went back about 5 minutes later with a clean plush MF Towel. It took a couple wipes, and was eliminating the high spots, and slight streaking.

I felt the same way applying it to just a hood last night. I must have used 8-12 sprays because it went grabby quickly like I was dry wiping. Being a silver car in lighting that did not show wetness, I could not tell if it was covered or not so I just sprayed more. I ended up not doing the microfiber buff since I couldn't tell what needed to be buffed out. I couldn't see high spots or anything but maybe I'm going to be in for a shock when I pull the car out into the sun on Saturday.

I also agree there isn't enough documentation on how to use this well. UPGP came out years ago and had very detailed instructions on how to use it perfectly (surprised most of that information is gone now). This is almost the opposite and leaves me wondering a lot.

I have questions like:
- how much area should each spray cover?
- what temperature conditions should this be applied in?
- can it be applied in the sun?
- how long to wait before buffing with the microfiber?
- do you have to buff with the microfiber if everything looks fine or is that only to level out high spots?
- how long before it fully cures and can get wet?
- can it be in full sun before it cures, does sun help it cure?
- can you layer it on top of itself, how long between layers?
- does it work well on glass, plastic, wheels? (ignore the fact that there is a glass or wheel variant)
- does it have uv inhibitors?
- does it provide improved scratch resistance?
- should the applicator be foam or microfiber?
- does the applicator need to be washed afterwards or can it just air dry and reused?
- does the MF used to buff end up with particles making it unsafe to re-use?
- do you really need to prep the paint so well, could it still outlast a regular sealant or WOWA sealant without doing any special prep?
- Can I apply a coat with every wash treating it like a WOWA without problems?
- Can I apply it over existing LSP?
- do non nano soaps reduce it's beading properties?


Tons of questions due to knowing about some other coatings and sealants, but no real answers to any of these that I've been able to find from all the discussions thus far.

 

[Marc08EX]

4-5 passes with about 10 lbs of pressure. Remember, you're not trying to abrade away paint.

That sounds contradicting to me. You apply pressure if you want to remove paint with a compound. Since this is not for cutting paint then why is 10lbs of downward force needed?

 

[cleanmycorolla]

I used the coating on a test panel today. Prepped with DP prep polish, 1 spray covered the area completely. I can't imagine how one dude used half a bottle on one tiny sedan.

Seems there's lots of user error. Some folks having issues, then cats like Wors reviews, used like 12 sprays on a car...I did an entire trunk of a Camry just for giggles today and one spray I'd cover it all.

I think people are thinking its not spreading when it is. My guess at least.

 

[cleanmycorolla]

That sounds contradicting to me. You apply pressure if you want to remove paint with a compound. Since this is not for cutting paint then why is 10lbs of downward force needed?

10lb isn't much. And it's probably just bough to keep the pad nice and flat.

 

[tommythecat]

That sounds contradicting to me. You apply pressure if you want to remove paint with a compound. Since this is not for cutting paint then why is 10lbs of downward force needed?

10lb isn't much. And it's probably just bough to keep the pad nice and flat.

I didn't really pay much attention to how much pressure I was applying when using the polish. I just made sure the pad was spinning. Polish did a great job prepping the surface. I used Griot's Pre-Wax Cleanser on the first car I did and I much prefer the Prep Polish.

 

[MarkD51]

I used the coating on a test panel today. Prepped with DP prep polish, 1 spray covered the area completely. I can't imagine how one dude used half a bottle on one tiny sedan.

Seems there's lots of user error. Some folks having issues, then cats like Wors reviews, used like 12 sprays on a car...I did an entire trunk of a Camry just for giggles today and one spray I'd cover it all.

I think people are thinking its not spreading when it is. My guess at least.

My question would then be how did you determine this, that so little was covering an area?

I had found that one spritz seemed to only cover an area of say 18"x18", then I could no longer see any evidence, nor feel any evidence that the product was still on the applicator, and was being applied to the paint. The applicator too offers no evidence of any moisture of product, it does feel dry a second or two later

Is this then something that you have to just go on faith? In other words, eyes and feel are of no aid, just close your eyes and wipe? LOL

I don't know if it's me, but "thinking" a product onto a paint finish seems difficult at best.

This certainly isn't like any product I've ever used before, where the applicator, or your eyes gives you an indicator of when to again apply.

Since the applicator drags from the get go, and no feel, or eyesight I found indicates when to again spray, that nothing seems to change as you go, this product was not actually that easy for me.

I've never used any other coating before this, but have seen vids of other coatings application, and in those instances once can more easily see where the product is being applied.
Mark

 

[MarkD51]

Another thought had come to mind while using it, and noting the considerable drag of the foam applicator.

Was thinking too that the foam applicator was absorbing, and perhaps wasting an excess amount of product, that the foam applicator maybe wasn't the best tool?

Had wondered if maybe something like the CQuartz MF Suede applicator wrapped around the small CQuartz Sponge might have worked better?
Mark

 

[Wors]

Mark, I used the CQuartz MF Suede applicator wrapped around the small CQuartz Sponge with great results.

Another thought had come to mind while using it, and noting the considerable drag of the foam applicator.

Was thinking too that the foam applicator was absorbing, and perhaps wasting an excess amount of product, that the foam applicator maybe wasn't the best tool?

Had wondered if maybe something like the CQuartz MF Suede applicator wrapped around the small CQuartz Sponge might have worked better?
Mark

 

[Nick McKees37]

That sounds contradicting to me. You apply pressure if you want to remove paint with a compound. Since this is not for cutting paint then why is 10lbs of downward force needed?

10 lbs of pressure is not a lot - take into consideration most DA polishers alone tip the scales at 5.5 to 6 pounds.

Take a DA polisher, set it on a scale, and press down until you've reached 10 lbs. You'll realize it's really not that much.

:dblthumb2:

 

[Nick McKees37]

Nick/All,
I was in a virtual "Living Nightmare" yesterday, with removal of Sap from the Kia with a variety of Clay Bars. I've actually clayed cars that were almost totally trashed, that didn't work me like this car did yesterday.

Here's some pics. (Yep I know, horrible shooting in broad daylight)
Mark

Mark,

I've found it to feel "grabby" on some paint systems as well. How the paint is prepped also plays a huge factor - ie: it's best to use Detailer's Coating Prep Polish. It's not a coincidence that polish came out at the same time as Detailer's Paint Coating.

Compared to Opti-Coat or GTechniq C1, you will tend to use a tad more DP Paint Coating. If you over apply it, a quick buff with a microfiber towel is all it takes to "level" it.

With DP Paint Coating, or any other paint coating for that matter, it's best to take your time and work on small sections.

Thanks for posting the pictures!

The answers to other questions you asked can be found in this thread.

Ok, I am still intrigued and have a few questions.


1. Is there any UV protection built into the product? If so how much?

2. Is there any measurable film build like with OC? I actually like using OC but this stuff looks even easier, just like my current WOWA product on my car WG DGLS & BFCS. (BlackWolf)

3. How slick are these coatings? I usually don't want to wax over coatings to get the best of their characteristics.

4. Is there any claimed scratch resistance?

5. What is the wiper abrasion resistance for the glass coating? I have a wife who thinks she always has to run the wipers and it kills glass sealants and makes the windshield a mess...

6. Is there any problem with re-applying 6-9 months later to add additional layers? What would the process be, if you can without stripping the previous application?

7. Any chance of getting a nano glaze / filler like Wolfs has to fill in minor stuff and work in conjunction with these coatings?

1. Yes. How much? A lot.
2. I've never personally measured, but I would imagine it does.
3. Slicker than Opti-Coat, which is known to be "grabby."
4. More so than factory clear coat, yes.
5. Educate her! Consistently using the wipers will decrease the life of any glass coating.
6. I've experimented with layering and didn't really notice any benefit, therefor I do not layer the coating.
7. I'll keep that in mind!

 

[VP Mark]

I will definitely agree that this coating is much slicker than opti coat.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online

 

[MarkD51]

Mark,

I've found it to feel "grabby" on some paint systems as well. How the paint is prepped also plays a huge factor - ie: it's best to use Detailer's Coating Prep Polish. It's not a coincidence that polish came out at the same time as Detailer's Paint Coating.

Compared to Opti-Coat or GTechniq C1, you will tend to use a tad more DP Paint Coating. If you over apply it, a quick buff with a microfiber towel is all it takes to "level" it.

With DP Paint Coating, or any other paint coating for that matter, it's best to take your time and work on small sections.

Thanks for posting the pictures!

The answers to other questions you asked can be found in this thread.




1. Yes. How much? A lot.
2. I've never personally measured, but I would imagine it does.
3. Slicker than Opti-Coat, which is known to be "grabby."
4. More so than factory clear coat, yes.
5. Educate her! Consistently using the wipers will decrease the life of any glass coating.
6. I've experimented with layering and didn't really notice any benefit, therefor I do not layer the coating.
7. I'll keep that in mind!

Thank you Nick.
Then, as this reply seems to indicate, one may find a variance due to paint condition, or previous paint prep methods of how far a certain about of product will go, or should I say "spread" across the paint?

Does one spritz per 18"x18" or 20"x20" area sound like the product is being over-applied then? Again, I'm going to guess, and say I used about a 1/2 oz on the entire car. (didn't do glass with it)

I might've slightly over-applied, to try to insure I had full-even coverage.
There was only one very small area which I noted, which made me think I missed an area, which was on the roof, a small 10"x10" area felt a little "grabby" with the MF Towel versus the rest of the roof, and with one small spritz, and apply, I then after went over that area with the MF Towel, and that grabby feeling was gone.

I imagine there might be other variables, wind conditions, temps, and humidity (it had gotten breezy yesterday afternoon when I was 1/2 way through the application, I'm sure this didn't help matters)

Temps were in the 90's, humidity high for here, maybe 25-30%

When I mentioned to another poster about the degree of "filling" abilities, I would like further commenting, that this coating is not some sort of miracle product that then comes along and hides defects, probably no product does. Paint etchings (I have a few on roof and hood from previous owner) medium-deep scratches, chips, and whatnot won't be hidden, they're still going to be there.

As for slight minor filling of swirling, like maybe what's caused from washing, I think in any case one should be dealing with such issues before use of any product.

 

[TroyScherer]

1. Yes. How much? A lot.
2. I've never personally measured, but I would imagine it does.
3. Slicker than Opti-Coat, which is known to be "grabby."
4. More so than factory clear coat, yes.
5. Educate her! Consistently using the wipers will decrease the life of any glass coating.
6. I've experimented with layering and didn't really notice any benefit, therefor I do not layer the coating.
7. I'll keep that in mind!

Interesting. I will have to keep an eye on the reviews that are sure to follow. A dedicated WOWA coating system like this has its advantages IMO.