NEW! DP Paint, Wheel, & Glass Coatings + Coating Prep Polish!

doh, I thought I did it better the second time around testing one panel on black where I could see what I was doing and used less, also buffed lightly immediately after finishing the panel. Looked good under my headlamp and flashlights. Pulled it into the sun the next day and high spots galore looking like my wipe pattern.

What's the easiest way to remove the streaky high spots without having to redo the application or compromise the durability?
 
^^ You should read mike thread on how to apply it. By chance are you applying this outside in uncovered conditions?
 
cleanmycorolla said:
^^ You should read mike thread on how to apply it. By chance are you applying this outside in uncovered conditions?
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I don't think anything specific from that thread would have helped, I pretty much did those procedures. I did this in an enclosed garage.

Now that I think about it, maybe it was not my application but the prep.

-clay
-WG TSR3 x 2
-WG FG
-DP coating prep polish x 2
-DP paint coating

The weird thing was, the paint prep polish did not really leave a squeaky clean surface, it left a slick surface. And ever after two applications (and more on the gas cap) I could see this oily looking residue as I was removing it, it was hard to tell if I ever got the paint wiped completely clean. My WG PPE always left a squeaky clean surface that was grabby and I was surprised this one was wiping off with a residue and the surface was slick rather than squeaky and grippy. The product actually beads on the paint even after multiple applications, I'm not sure what to make of it.

I also tested the gas cap using the same process but I did a 91% IPA wipedown so I could know if the DP CPP was causing a bonding issue. That did leave a squeaky surface. I didn't see streaks on it now either but it's a much smaller surface too so I don't know if that changes the dynamics of unevenness.
 
Just to note I'm not critiquing or judging just trying to help! :)

How much prep polish did you use? Typical amount you would have for say PPE. I know what you're talking about with PPE, I had the same feeling with prep polish FYI wasn't exact but similar.

Also don't forget, healthy paint will bead regardless of protection, so maybe you're experiencing that? Lol anything I can think of.
 
cleanmycorolla said:
Just to note I'm not critiquing or judging just trying to help! :)

How much prep polish did you use? Typical amount you would have for say PPE. I know what you're talking about with PPE, I had the same feeling with prep polish FYI wasn't exact but similar.

Also don't forget, healthy paint will bead regardless of protection, so maybe you're experiencing that? Lol anything I can think of.
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I know you're trying to help. I'm trying to learn here too, giving as much information to get helped.

When you said the same with prep polish, you mean you had the slick resulting surface and oily residue during wipeoff? I feel WG PPE does a better job cleaning the surface, but I also know it has fillers which shouldn't be good underneath a coating. Maybe I need to do WG PPE first, then DP CPP, then I wonder if I'd get that squeaky surface.

Any hints on how to remove the high spots without redoing everything?
 
bcwang said:
I know you're trying to help. I'm trying to learn here too, giving as much information to get helped.

When you said the same with prep polish, you mean you had the slick resulting surface and oily residue during wipeoff? I feel WG PPE does a better job cleaning the surface, but I also know it has fillers which shouldn't be good underneath a coating. Maybe I need to do WG PPE first, then DP CPP, then I wonder if I'd get that squeaky surface.

Any hints on how to remove the high spots without redoing everything?
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Not sure if it will help but I would try a quick detailer and buff the spots out really well with a plush microfiber. You have nothing to lose at this point and would be a good experiment. :dblthumb2:
 
tommythecat said:
Not sure if it will help but I would try a quick detailer and buff the spots out really well with a plush microfiber. You have nothing to lose at this point and would be a good experiment. :dblthumb2:
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Ultima waterless wash plus and buffed did nothing to it.
 
Hey Nick, will the prep polish remove or compromise the coating if I run it over it, or just clean it? I did about half my car, and may go over some of those same areas again next weekend whenI do the rest of the car, when its not so hot and flashing on contact.
 
Hi Nick,

New car owner here.

This thread caught my eye and has pretty much swayed my decision to buy Opti-coat. I have a few questions I'm hoping you can answer:

I don't have access to a polisher so what would you recommend for a hand polish. This is my plan:

Wash (Megs Gold Class)/ dry (Megs MF towel)/ clay the car. Then use the Detailers polish, followed by DP Coating. Is there a polish I should use (by hand) aside from the Detailer's polish to hide very minor imperfections. At this point I'm not even sure if my car has any.. its silver and I'm finding it very difficult to spot swirls.

Thanks in advance.
 
Often with silver cars you won't spot the imperfections if they're minor. If you can't see any, I'd think the additional polish would be a whole lot of extra work for close to no return. I'll coat my wife's silver Elantra later this month without 'correcting' what I can't see. That's just my take.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2
 
jamesalanb said:
Hey Nick, will the prep polish remove or compromise the coating if I run it over it, or just clean it? I did about half my car, and may go over some of those same areas again next weekend whenI do the rest of the car, when its not so hot and flashing on contact.
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The Prep Polish will NOT remove the coating.

heetheem said:
Hi Nick,

New car owner here.

This thread caught my eye and has pretty much swayed my decision to buy Opti-coat. I have a few questions I'm hoping you can answer:

I don't have access to a polisher so what would you recommend for a hand polish. This is my plan:

Wash (Megs Gold Class)/ dry (Megs MF towel)/ clay the car. Then use the Detailers polish, followed by DP Coating. Is there a polish I should use (by hand) aside from the Detailer's polish to hide very minor imperfections. At this point I'm not even sure if my car has any.. its silver and I'm finding it very difficult to spot swirls.

Thanks in advance.
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Hello!

I would:

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Polish by hand using Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover and a TANGERINE EZ-Grip Hydro-Tech Hand Polish Applicator.
4. Polish by hand again using Detailer's Coating Prep Polish and a CRIMSON EZ-Grip Hydro-Tech Hand Polish Applicator.

That's it!

EZ Grip Hydro-Tech Hand Applicators

Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover
 
Nick, the coating flashes almost instantly and it's hard to tell where you left off or even if you covered an area completely.

What's your rule of thumb as to when you need another spray?

It seems I get one or two quick swipes of the foam pad after each spray and then it feels like I'm dry wiping the paint.

Thanks
 
fordf150xlt said:
Nick, the coating flashes almost instantly and it's hard to tell where you left off or even if you covered an area completely.

What's your rule of thumb as to when you need another spray?

It seems I get one or two quick swipes of the foam pad after each spray and then it feels like I'm dry wiping the paint.

Thanks
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I know you asked Nick but this coating goes much further than the visible flashing. Just go back over the paint afterwards and you can feel how slick it is. The applicator still has enough product on it to spread on the paint even though there is no visible flashing.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
 
Got my paint coating last night and HAD to try it out...my new oc'd Lex was not the greatest test bed, but I just couldn't wait. This post is for those of you having difficulty with the amount of product required. I agree with VP Mark above. You still have product on the pad. I'm a fan of the blue-scott-paper shop towel over yellow foam applicator method. Have used this for years with coatings and WOWA's. I wanted to see how far I could go with just 1 spray. Left front quarter panel was the victim. Half way across the panel I felt like I was dry wiping. Checked the applicator, still looked wet. Took a sniff...as you know, this stuff reeks of IPA. Anyway, it occurred to me that if I was still smelling the carrier, then I still had wet product on the applicator. Sure enough, I completed the panel and did a very light buff. Very slick all across the panel...an apparently seamless application. Checked it this morning, very pleased with this coating. Use the "sniff test!"
 
Just because the applicator smells of the product, it doesn't mean there's still usable product on it. The smell can still remain well after the product is spent.
 
VP Mark said:
I know you asked Nick but this coating goes much further than the visible flashing. Just go back over the paint afterwards and you can feel how slick it is. The applicator still has enough product on it to spread on the paint even though there is no visible flashing.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
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Thanks Mark! :dblthumb2:
 
Update***

Initial application was done September of 2013. I used the paint, glass and wheel coating. In Minnesota and most of the upper Midwest for that matter, this has been the harshest winter in 30 years. So cold has it been that washing even in tunnel washes have to be timed with a brief warm spell, which seem to come far a few between. Here we are today, the end of February and the current temp at 1pm in the afternoon is -8 degrees.

What I have noticed when I do get a chance to wash is that beading on the hood and glass are still very evident and I mean "tight" beading. It's quite obvious that the Paint coating is still working at 5 months and counting quite well and have no doubts that it will last for quite a bit longer.

There is no doubt in my mind that for those of us that have limited or no chance at waxing during the winter months that this DP Paint coating is the cats meow for a long lasting durable finish. For those that want a product that takes a lickin but keeps on tickin. A "set it and forget it" if you will, it's a no-brainer.
 
fordf150xlt said:
Update***

Initial application was done September of 2013. I used the paint, glass and wheel coating. In Minnesota and most of the upper Midwest for that matter, this has been the harshest winter in 30 years. So cold has it been that washing even in tunnel washes have to be timed with a brief warm spell, which seem to come far a few between. Here we are today, the end of February and the current temp at 1pm in the afternoon is -8 degrees.

What I have noticed when I do get a chance to wash is that beading on the hood and glass are still very evident and I mean "tight" beading. It's quite obvious that the Paint coating is still working at 5 months and counting quite well and have no doubts that it will last for quite a bit longer.

There is no doubt in my mind that for those of us that have limited or no chance at waxing during the winter months that this DP Paint coating is the cats meow for a long lasting durable finish. For those that want a product that takes a lickin but keeps on tickin. A "set it and forget it" if you will, it's a no-brainer.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update!
 
Any longer term reviews of this product? I'm considering it or Duragloss.
 
RobZ71LM7 said:
Any longer term reviews of this product? I'm considering it or Duragloss.
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Can't speak for Duragloss, but DP coating has easily lasted me through one of the harshest Minnesota Winters in recent memory and it appears to still be working judging by the beading during washings. The slickness is gone, but still protecting.

AS with anything else, proper prep before application will be key to it's durability.

The only thing I would say is that there is a little bit of a learning curve on application because it flashes so quickly. It can fool you initially, thinking that you need more than you really do. But once you get a feel for it, it's quite easy to apply.

Tough as nails IMO.
 
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