NEW! DP Paint, Wheel, & Glass Coatings + Coating Prep Polish!

I can vouch for the glass/wheel coatings. Took me thru one of worse winters in PA. Wheels just needed clean with soap and water. Glass was really protected. I reapplied both products a few weeks back for my spring detail. At $50 a pop they may seem expensive, but a little is all thats needed. And they DO WORK!
 
Nick said on 7/21/13
The original plan was to formulate a coating that would work on glass, wheels, trim and paint. That idea was scrapped early on and it was decided to formulate specific products so there wouldn't be a compromise in protection or ease of use for each respective surface (ie: paint, glass, wheels). The trim coating is still in the testing phase.
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Any word on the DP Trim coating that was supposedly in the works way back when this thread was started?
 
I PM'd Nick, he says they're still working on it.:hungry:

Hope they haven't put it on the back burner....,
 
hey all, I just used (actually a few weeks ago) the wheel coating from DP and I found the best way to apply the product is to use a very HEAVY application.

Trying to skimp on the application causes the most problems. Simply put, 1, 2 or even 3 sprays is not enough. no doubt about it. If you applicator is squeaky and grabby you are dry rubbing the surface. I dont care what anyone says, thats not the correct way to apply this.

If using foam, you have to really saturate your applicator first. with about 10 sprays. get it good and primed. and only then can you possibly use 2 or 3 sprays per small area. Again, the foam causes issues though as the product migrates the the center of the pad, and what stays near the surface of the foam drys extremely fast.

the best solution I personally have found is to use a Microfiber applicator. You can also use the Carpro suede block setup, but for wheels its not very versatile for tough to reach areas. you will wind up removing the suede and rubbing it in by hand for all the hard to reach areas.

The MF applicator holds product at the face of the pad and it stays wet far longer than foam. I was able to get a VERY smooth application of product using this setup. No grabbing or jumping. And I was able to visually see exactly what was going on. Like I said I used a decent amount of product, but I know I coated the surface with a lot of product and wiped off the residual with ease.

I think DP should include a MF applicator with the coatings and change the instructions. It will save first time users a LOT of headaches IME.

Also be careful using the DP Prep Polish. Its a very nice product but its far from foolproof. It leaves a very light film of residue that is difficult to remove. IPA really helps pull up that list bit of residue. I tried a water dampened towel, and while it did help, there was still product left on the surface. So I settled on IPA. The bad part is that its VERY difficult to see this light film. So I can see that most people will probably coat right over it. The only reason i saw it was because I was working on black painted barrels of the wheel which is soft , so I always check for toweling marks. (BTW the prep polish removed an absolutely incredible amount of imbedded dirt. So much so that my white MF applicator looked like I polished single stage black paint !!! This was after a thorough decon and tar removal of the wheel)

anyway, hope this tip helps anyone out planning to use this product. Go with MF for application !
 
Your experiences are quite different then mine.

I just finished doing a Ford F150 (fiberglass topper and all). I found using the gold finger foam pads to be great to use. 2-3 spritzes per panel (panel being a door etc..) is all it took. I quickly spread the product over the entire area using lateral then vertical strokes until the entire area is covered.

You are NOT necessarily dry wiping when you feel the pad grab. It's still spreading and I can see how one would think you are not using enough as I myself thought the same thing. It's pretty easy to tell if you've used enough product by how slick and smooth the surface is after buffing with a MF towel.

This is the second application on this truck (the other a year ago) along with another on a full sized car and still have half or more of the bottle left. I have enough of the glass and wheel coating to last eeeons. For me the Glass and wheel coatings are applied the same way with same results.

As for the Prep Polish, I used a DA to apply as one would apply any polish. You don't need to press hard at all, just work it back and forth with minimal pressure on setting #4. Buff with a MF and no streaks, haze or film whatsoever. Only squeaky clean paint. Then right to the coating and no IPA wipe down.
 
How well will the Wheel Coating protect chrome wheels from salty winter roads? Last couple of winters I’ve used DP wheel glaze and think it helps still but find addition pitting by spring.
 
Anyone know what the shelf life is for any of the DP paint coatings? Bought some in mid 2013 and still have quite a bit left.
 
Couple of questions:
I'll be polishing with glass restorer, using 7424XP. Would y'all recommend white or blue hybrid pad. I also have a white hexlogic. Second, as far removing the film, I don't have IPA but Top Inspection do the job? Thanks!
 
fordf150xlt said:
Anyone know what the shelf life is for any of the DP paint coatings? Bought some in mid 2013 and still have quite a bit left.
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I don't know what the shelf life is supposed to be, but I have had the DP paint coating for the same amount of time as you have and the Pinnacle glass coating for two years. Both still work fine for me. I just used the glass coating today and did not notice any change.
 
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