New guy battling old tree sap

Try the green isopropyl alcohol,should be a higher concentration. Also I'd try a steamer if you have access to one.
 
Goof off and a Q tip took it right off! Thank you guys!
yba2ura3.jpg
 
Will my da polisher fix the crackled look it left behind? Or is that permanent damage?
 
Tarminator and a pastic razor bade. But I've found after the sap has been on the paint for a long time and dried that it may have etched the clearcoat when you remove it. I've saw that with several vehicles that I've detailed.
 
That looks like clear coat etching. Seems kinda like stage 2 bird dropping etching. Good luck removing it, I don't see it happening. Awesome job on the sap removal, glad to see you found the knowledge you were looking for.
 
Do I run the risk of further damage by running my da polisher over it when I polish my hood? Or will it be ok?
 
50spence said:
Do I run the risk of further damage by running my da polisher over it when I polish my hood? Or will it be ok?
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That's a great question, and i don't feel safe telling you to try it. I would say from here on out just to leave it alone and lay a good coat of sealant over it.:xyxthumbs:
 
50spence said:
Will my da polisher fix the crackled look it left behind? Or is that permanent damage?
Click to expand...

Hmmm, that's a good question? It looks like there may be a couple of places where it actually took up the clear with it. Just can't see it without 'seeing it'. That will make it a problem trying to get aggressive with it. It seems there is real clear coat damage, cracking, as well as staining the base coat.

Might try a Meguiar's Unigrit sanding block on it. They have them here in 1000, 1500 & 2000 grit. It's firm enough not to dip into any holes or drag any loose areas. It's possible to use a corner for tight places, and any of the 6 sides. I've got one (200 grit) that I've had for almost 30 years! Still works like it did new, (except for the corners being worn down about a ¼"). ;)
autogeek_2270_113873552

I like it better than paper on flat areas because it doesn't flex. Although paper on the end of your finger is also something you'd use in an area like that. Look up "feather sanding and edge" and you'll find Mike Phillips has written it into one of his articles, along with photos of course. Just wish you could search a string here in the forum rather than it breaking the search down into individual words.

Never mind, here it is.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ghly-specialized-technique-mike-phillips.html

Funny how the forum won't let you find it, but Google will. :dblthumb2:

Now I don't think it will EVER totally go away, but I may be wrong. (Wouldn't be the first time, and surely won't be the last.) ;)

That being said, as long as the clear isn't pulling up, I doubt there is any damage that a DA will ever be able to do to it. Can't be any worse that's for sure. (Again, I've not seen it in person and can't speak to the condition of the paint and how it may or may not hold up to buffing.)

I'd try it and go from there. Most likely it'll look better. Although I would try the "feather sanding" approach to it. If not sanding, maybe just your finger with a thin pad wrapped around it and some heavy cut compound. Medium compound and/or polishing will take out anything you leave.


nulla tenaci invia est via (for the tenacious, no road is impassable)
 
You can try rubbing alcohol. Sometimes tree sap can eat through the paint, which may be the case from looking at the photo, or it may even be something else??? Could it be concrete?
 
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