new guy with black car

Charlie M You have AWESOME taste in the car you choose!! I have a Black 2013 Mustang GT Welcome to the Stang Clan as well!!!....LOL As for Sealant I use Pinnacle Black Label Paint Sealant. I put the sealant on with a DA Polisher and set at 1.5 (Flex 3401 VRG)/ 2.5 for (PC 7424 XP) and 4 for Griot's 3" DA. Some people might do it different I am just telling you My way for any of the 3 mentioned. The final stage is I put a quality wax BY HAND (Foam Applicator). Then I spritz with a detail spray. The Blackfire stuff is great too (any of them). As for the wax I use Bouncer's Capture the Rapture or Dodo Juice Supernatural wax. Son1c wax is good too. Either way Autogeek can set you up. Have an awesome day!!
 
Hi Charlie M As for Sealant I use Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Sealant. I used to use Blackfire Paint Sealant. Both are incredible you cannot go wrong with either one. I apply the sealant by DA Machine. Depending on what mood I am in I use either a Flex 3401 VRG, PC 7424 XP or even a 3" Griot's. It's ALL FUN to me.

As for the wax I apply by hand (foam applicator). As for the wax it took me about 3 Months to come up with 3 that I like. Right now I use Bouncer's Capture the Rapture and it is awesome!!! The 2nd is Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax and Son1c Caurnaubavore. Those 2 I have not tried yet, however, I will in the future.

Sealant is a great protector wax adds depth. If you car paint is perfect (your hard work) you will not notice an shine (because it is already shiny). What you will notice with wax (any good quality wax)...you will notice depth. It is hard to explain unless you try it. I was very skeptical at 1st but once I put the wax on you can notice. This is again, my opinion.

From 1 Stang dude to another that's what I would do!!!....Take care

CJ
 
Definitely look into BlackFire products for the stang!
 
Hey Charlie, I wrote an article that sums up black paint....


"Black is not a color, it's a full time job"



1956 Ford F150 paint polished by Mike Phillips circa 2006 in Escondido, California
400_1956_Ford_150_by_Mike_Phillips_002.jpg
400_1956_Ford_150_by_Mike_Phillips_001.jpg

The reason for this is because clear coat paints are scratch-sensitive and what this means but can sometimes be hard to wrap your mind around is that even though modern clear coat paints are harder than traditional single stage paints, (the only two major paint systems that have been used since we stopped riding horses and started driving cars), they still will scratch easily.

Since your car is black, any defect shows up easily to your eyes.

It is very difficult to maintain a 100% swirls and scratch free finish on a daily drive with black paint. The people that I know that own black cars PURPOSEFULLY and keep them looking brand new all the time also do something to the paint every other week.

By "do something to the paint", I mean besides washing them carefully, they also machine apply a wax every other week or pay someone to machine apply a wax every other week.

By re-waxing often, fine swirls and scratches are either removed or masked, doesn't matter which because the end result is the same, a nice looking black finish.

You can do the same thing by using any premium quality finishing wax and some spray-on waxes.


White paint or silver metallic tends to be good choices of colors for people that don't want to see swirls and scratches because it's more difficult to see these types of defects on these light colors. It's not that the swirls and scratches are not there, it's just more difficult to see.


While I agree that nothing looks better than a car with a highly and correctly polished black finish, maintaining a black finish on a daily driver is a full time job. You will need to educate yourself on what I call the 3 P's, that is,

  • Paint
  • Products
  • Procedures
You need to know a little bit about each category in order to either do the job yourself or to hire someone and ensure they know what they are doing.


Educate Yourself
The best way to educate yourself is to read a lot on a forum like this, AutogeekOnline.net, watch videos on our YouTube Channel and attend any detailing class you can clear your schedule and attend. If you can attend one of my Detailing Boot Camp Classes I guarantee you will not only learn a lot but you'll also have a lot of fun at the same time.




:xyxthumbs:
 
Here's another recent article that has some good info for you....


Clearcoats are Scratch-Sensitive


Clearcoat paints have a characteristic called,


Scratch-Sensitive


This means even though the paints are very hard they still scratch very easily and because there's a colored layer of paint under the clear, the colored layer works to amplify and magnify the surface or topical scratches making them easy for the human eye to see.


This drives car enthusiasts up the wall.


It also confuses people to no end because it's hard for people to wrap their brains around the concept of how a car's paint can be very hard but then scratch so easily.


The hardness factor smacks you upside the head when you're first learning how to either hand or machine polish because you find out real fast removing the swirls out of a clear coat finish is not as easy at it sound like it should be.

Again, this is for people brand new to working on clearcoats, seasoned pros acquire the skills that make removing swirls and scratches for them very easy via experience.


Once a person completely understands and fully grasps how the hardness factor affects the time, energy and resources required to remove swirls and scratches out of a modern clearcoat finish the light bulb in their head turns >on< and then they understand why it's so important to make sure that ANYTHING that TOUCHES the paint needs to be of the highest quality you can obtain and there needs to be some thinking going on as to the way or manner in which you touch the paint.

In other words, once you figure all of the above out and then buff your car's paint out to the point that you're happy with it, now you have to be mindful of,



  • How "you" wash and dry it.

  • How "you" wipe it with any type of spray-on product.

  • How you let "someone else" wash it.

  • How you let "someone else" wipe it with any spray-on product or even touch it at all.


The above 4 things are how a car is "touched" the most for most people and most cars. (think about it).


Make sense?



Clearcoat paints are scratch-sensitive. They are harder than traditional single stage paints but even though they are harder they still scratch very easily and because they are hard it's difficult to get the scratches out.


Abrasive Technology
This leads into the next topic people discover and that is the most important factor that determines if swirls and scratches are removed WITHOUT the product, pad and process simply replacing one type of defect and replacing it with its own type of defects, (holograms or micro-marring), and that factor is the abrasive technology. The stuff inside the bottle.


So be careful how you work on your own car and if you let someone else work on your car make sure they are qualified.

This includes taking your beautiful brand new car to ANY type of car wash, (things touch your car's paint at a car wash).

Or if you take your car to the dealership to have the oil changed because dealerships love you so much they will have your car washed, (touched), by their car wash guys...


See these articles...

How to maintain a freshly waxed car

DON'T WASH CAR !!!!!!!!!!!


Scratch your car for $5.00

The reality of the 100% Hand Car Wash


And the really BIG reason all of this is important?


Because clearcoats are THIN. The factory sprayed clear layer of paint on most new cars averages around 2 mils. That's thinner than the average post-it note.

Clearcoat_Paints_Are_Thin_01.jpg




The next time you see a post-it note... feel it between your fingers... this is usually all it takes to drive home the point as to how thin the paint is on your beautiful, shiny car.

Clearcoat_Paints_Are_Thin_02.jpg



There you go...


Win/Win
Please feel encouraged to share the link to this article with anyone you think needs to be brought up to speed about the paint on their car.



:)
 
And if you've never used any type of polisher or buffer before, don't worry...


It's not that hard...


Note these people are not just "learning" on daily drivers aka new cars, they're learning on someone's "toys" or Special Interest Vehicles. More risk for me, more fun for them...



In the below live broadcast I show a 15 year old boy how to machine polish

Live Broadcast Video - 1965 Plymouth Valiant - Extreme Makeover

1965Plymouth034.jpg





And in this one I show a 21 year old girl how to machine polish

Video & Pictures: 1965 Fastback Mustang - Gtechniq EXO Show Car Makeover!

Trista working with the rest of the team to machine polish this 1965 Mustang Fastback 2+2
TristaBuffingFortheFirstTime001.jpg



Trista removing swirls on a show car...

TristaBuffingFortheFirstTime002.jpg




And in this one I show a 80 year old man and a young lady and here boyfriend how to machine polish for their first time...

Video and Pictures - Two 1967 Camaro's - Show Car Makeovers!


CamaroNight001.jpg


CamaroNight002.jpg



PLUS you have everyone on this forum to help you along the way...

:)
 
Thanks,
I've owned a ton of black cars, and always hand waxed. Thought It was time to step up to a machine
 
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