NEW! Meguiar’s Foam Buffing Discs

ski2 said:
Nice write up Mike!!!

How would you compare the cut of the Red pad to a typical orange foam pad???
Click to expand...


  • More aggressive cutting.
  • Finishes out nice by itself as long as you're using quality compounds and/or polishes.
  • Holds it's shape with less compression after it has broken in.
All three foam resin formulas are top quality.


Thin is in and these pads are first to take the lead....


I've been teaching people to use thin pads with dual action polishers for about 10 years now and it's good to see the industry bringing thinness to the market.

If you use any brand of dual action polisher you're going to love these new thin pads from Meguiar's.


:dblthumb2:
 
megs did their homework on these pads and many were asking (including myself) for these years ago. with addition of these new pads (cutting, polishing, finishing), and along with their DAMF cutting and finishing discs, you pretty much have all your basis covered...

watermark.php


btw, i'm not a fan of these 5.5" LC flat pads. if they were composed exactly as thin and had the velcro recessed back like their low profile hydro-tech pads then i would like them better. years ago they use to make a 5.5" & 4" low profile orange pad with the recessed velcro and they were awesome...
 
Great write up. I ordered a couple of the cutting pads. I'll see how they do on a swirled out black Solara this weekend. I had decided on a rotary with foamed wool for the first cut. Guess test spots will have to decide which way I go.
 
"More aggressive cutting.
Finishes out nice by itself as long as you're using quality compounds and/or polishes"

Thanks Mike!!! Might be just the thing to remove light swirls with a polish on hard VW paint.
 
DaveT435 said:
Great write up. I ordered a couple of the cutting pads.
Click to expand...


Thank you. Took a little time to create this one and from what I've seen it's the most documented before and after thread showing these new pads in action anywhere.


DaveT435 said:
I'll see how they do on a swirled out black Solara this weekend.

I had decided on a rotary with foamed wool for the first cut. Guess test spots will have to decide which way I go.
Click to expand...


Hmmm.... what to use does depend on the test spot. If the swirls are deep and the paint is hard you might be better off going with the rotary buffer no matter how great any foam pad is on any dual action polisher.

When I buffed out this Ferrari I tried to use the Flex 3401 with the Orange Hybrid pads and while it removed about 90% of the RIDS I was aiming for about 98% RIDS removal.

So I simply put the Flex 3401 down and grabbed the Flex PE14 with a wool pad and got it over with....

Mark's Fast Ferrari with Wolfgang Fuzion


watermark.php


watermark.php



Well some places we used the Rupes TA50 with a homemade 1" backing plate and pad.

one_inch_pads.jpg




Never discount the rotary buffer, it's still the fastest and most effective way to remove defects.

watermark.php




:)
 
runrun411 said:
When you use the clay was that after the Nanoskin?
Click to expand...


I'm guessing you're referring to post #38


Just guessing..... here's post #38


Mike Phillips said:
We used Nanoskin towels and mitts to mechanically decontaminate the paint but just to see what was on the paint I used some detailing clay and clayed only a section of the trunk lid and here's what came off....


watermark.php





Even cool looking Camaros like this one get contaminated over time.


If you want to know if your car needs to be clayed do the "Baggie Test".
Click to expand...


The answer to your question was I used the detailing clay BEFORE we used the Nanoskin products BUT I only clayed a small section to find out and show what was on the paint using white clay from Meguiar's.

It's shared in the text I wrote just above the picture of the clay....


Mike Phillips said:
We used Nanoskin towels and mitts to mechanically decontaminate the paint but just to see what was on the paint I used some detailing clay and clayed only a section of the trunk lid and here's what came off....
Click to expand...



Does that answer the question? I've actually done this same thing, used Nanoskin products to decontaminate the paint but BEFORE using them first use some clay JUST to see if we can see what's on the paint using white clay. Nanoskin products work great but it can be hard to see the color of the contaminants that are on the paint.

Because this was a very cool looking orange colored Camaro that felt as rough as sandpaper I was curious and I thought others might be curious too. Lot of people think cool cars don't have anything wrong with them and that' just not the case. This car was contaminated and swirled out.


:)
 
Ferrari looks great. Swirls are extremely deep. Good thing is the paint is thick. I think I'll give the foam on the rotary a shot too. The paint isn't hard but since my neighbor told this kid WE would do his car for FREE then conveniently can't make it I'm pretty sure I'll end up with the rotary and wool just to get through it as quickly as possible.

It is nice to have a car like this to test out new products though.
 
Desertnate said:
For those of us with less experience, do you change your technique any when using thin pad/discs like these?
Click to expand...

Good question.

For anyone new to machine polishing these pads are very thin and the compress easily so pay more attention when buffing and also pay attention to the edge of your backing plate as it will be close to the paint.


Desertnate said:
Do they require more cleaning while working?
Click to expand...

Same amount of cleaning which is clean them after each section you buff.


Desertnate said:
Do you swap them out more often?
Click to expand...

I don't know about more often... that's probably the case as there's less mass to become saturated thus pad saturation should be happening faster.

A person just needs to pay attention to how wet the pads are and use good sense. Like I always say, more pads are better.

One thing for sure, pad rotation is much less of a problem with less mass so when these pads get wet or saturated they will still rotate great so pad saturation is less of an issue as it relates to pad rotation so that leaves pad performance as the other issue affected by pad saturation.


Desertnate said:
Any other tips for those who have only used "fat" pads?
Click to expand...

You still want to mark your backing plate and monitor pad rotation as you buff. I do and it's a good best and normal practice anytime you're using a DA polisher with a free floating spindle bearing design.



Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation


MarkYourBackingPlate01.jpg




Good questions!


:dblthumb2:
 
There sure were a lot of squirrels on that car. The owner must have been nuts :)
 
tried the burgundy cutting foam disc couple of days ago.
the pad was rotating with very high speed, no matter how much pressure i was putting on the machine. is it normal?
can someone make a video on how it should be, when using a common DA (600-700W)?
 
makima said:
tried the burgundy cutting foam disc couple of days ago.
the pad was rotating with very high speed, no matter how much pressure i was putting on the machine. is it normal?
can someone make a video on how it should be, when using a common DA (600-700W)?
Click to expand...

it's normal. less foam since it's thinner so there's less twisting motion. these pads are great for traditional style DA's and help push it even further...
 
Probably totally unrelated..

In a bunch of the shots of the various DA's, rotaries, etc many have blue tape around the bodies. What's the significance?
 
My question about these pads is regarding the adhesive of the Velcro to the foam. I'm wondering if the glue holds up well, like it does with Rupes and BnS pads.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
swanicyouth said:
My question about these pads is regarding the adhesive of the Velcro to the foam. I'm wondering if the glue holds up well, like it does with Rupes and BnS pads.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

so far IME they have held up well and they are machine washable (I personally don't do that) like the previous discontinued 2.0 pads. the only thing is they get saturated a little quicker and it's good to have a few extra. also, when pulling them off the backing plate, you have to be careful so you don't rip it...
 
I have to agree. I have had no issues using the one's I have. As stated they will saturate since they are thinner. Cleaning the pad on the fly helps out a lot. At least for me. I have enjoyed using them.
 
Ccrew said:
Probably totally unrelated..

In a bunch of the shots of the various DA's, rotaries, etc many have blue tape around the bodies. What's the significance?
Click to expand...

Good quetion.... here's the answers...


I have a growing collection of tools, some prototypes sent to me to test from various tool manufacturers and some low serial number units. To me these are some of my prized possessions from the time I've invested into the detailing industry.

The blue tape you see on the Flex PE14 indicates that's my personal Flex PE14 and instead of letting it gather dust on a display shelf I use it and let others use it but to visually separate it from the rest of the Flex PE14 rotary polishers I placed a strip of 3M Blue Vinyl Tape around the body.

watermark.php




Here's the behind the scenes story...


My New Flex PE 14-2 150 Rotary Buffer

This is the #2 Production Unit

MyNewFlexRB001.jpg



The second production unit...
MyNewFlexRB002.jpg






The Rupes Bigfoot 21 was a "return" to Autogeek after someone else had already performed the Kevin Brown Washer Mod.


watermark.php




I don't know who purchased and then returned it all I know is it was given to me for use in Autogeek's Show Car Garage. I placed a strip of 3M Blue Vinyl tape around the body just to make it easy to visually identify among the 25+ Rupes tools we have in our garage for our detailing boot camp classes.



That's the story behind the blue tape on a few of the tools in our garage. When I get a free moment I'll take a picture of all my prototypes and low production units and create a thread.



:dblthumb2:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top