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VincenzaV

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Hi, I am new here and I am going to restore the headlights on a 2010 Toyota Prius. I have watched the video's on YouTube, read the instructions here, done my cars (two) and even an old headlight I pulled from the junkyard to try a new UV resistant clear coat.

I want to perfect my technic. I am using a corded drill, 3M's headlight restoration kit with velcro backing plate, 3M super duty compound, Meguiar's Compound, Nexus Plastic system, and 4 Ever Bright UV coating.

Obviously, not using all at once-Haha.

Am I just hitting the limits of a rotary action only drill? I know DA polishers are built to show less scratches due to their orbital action. I am going to buy one as soon as I can afford it. I just want to know if I am beating myself up over a tool limitation, or, the more likely answer, missing some technic?

How scratch free are the rotary (Drill only) kits vs. DA/Orbital?

Thank you!
 
VincenzaV said:
How scratch free are the rotary (Drill only) kits vs. DA/Orbital?

Thank you!
Click to expand...


I've seen rotary buffers leave holograms in plastic headlights the same way they will leave holograms in paint. Holograms are a scratch pattern unique to rotary buffers.

These holograms will show up in the sun on headlights.

You have two options,

1. Finish out using a soft polishing pad and medium cut to fine cut polish (not a compound) with your rotary buffer. This should leave a better looking finish with less noticeable holograms than finishing out with a compound and any cutting pad.

2. Finish out using a DA polisher with soft foam pad and a medium to fine cut polish.


Hope that helps...


:)
 
Thank you for the reply Mike! I am a newbie so I'll have to research what medium to fine cut polishes you have that will work best. I can't wait to get a DA...
 
Not to steer you away from AG but the Harbor Freight DA is a low cost good quality DA for someone on a budget. Its at least as good as the PC and probably the Griots DA. Griots has a lifetime warranty which makes it very attractive.
 
You can finish out well with a rotary/drill, but your sanding steps can play a roll in how they finish out.

What is your sanding process?

If you are only using the sanding disks that come with the 3M kit, it may help to add some other grit sanding papers or disks. That is some sanding grits to bridge the gap between the 500 and 800 grit and some in between the 800 and 3000 grit. Like 1000, 1500, 2000, then maybe 2500, or go to the 3000 grit.

It's very important to completely remove the previous grit sanding scratches before moving onto the next grit. Sanding at different angles for each grit helps you recognize if there are still scratches being left behind.

Another note; I am not sure about the coating that you mentioned, but most wipe on/spray on UV style coatings do not require the surface to be perfect(polished out) before you apply and actually need some of the "tooth" from the sanding to give it something to hold on to.
 
Great advice on the HF and the additional sanding grits. I do own some HF tools, but the PC is only $50 more and reviewed at a higher score. My business marketing is based around a patriotic theme so any American brand (even if some or all is built in China, which seems to be the case for everything now days...) gives me more credence.

I heard the griots has very low power (like you can stop it if you sneeze while polishing it). Which might be great for buffing but not for removing deep scratches in plastic? I have never used the Griot's, it is just some commonalities I heard about it in reviews online.

Mantilgh-When you say "sand at different angles", do you mean do one grit horizontally, and the next grit vertically? Or something different? Removing the previous grit's scratches is really what I need to improve on.
 
VincenzaV said:
Mantilgh-When you say "sand at different angles", do you mean do one grit horizontally, and the next grit vertically?
Click to expand...

Yep, or whatever works. It doesn't have to be 90 degrees, just so you can see that it's not close to parallel to the grit that you are trying to remove. Drying the light to inspect will help see the sand scratches better.

I'm not sure how to tell when to switch grits when doing it by machine.
 
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