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OC does not have any UV inhibitors. It protects the inhibitors in the clearcoat. It isnt going to protect polycarbonate that has been polished after fading. OL will do that for you.

Tiger, but what if you polish off some of the top 50% of you clearcoat (The top layer has the most UV inhibitors) and apply OC/OG. In that case you would not be UV protected? My RX-7 was three step corrected before OG so I wonder about these things. I don't think it was ever corrected before that but I do not know because I bought used.
 
Tiger, but what if you polish off some of the top 50% of you clearcoat (The top layer has the most UV inhibitors) and apply OC/OG. In that case you would not be UV protected?

This is one of those topics that Mike Phillips would chide us for beating to death, but I don't think there is any difference between the top 50% and the bottom 50% of the clearcoat as far as UV inhibitor content. The issue is that the UV is able to penetrate the clearcoat to some extent, so the thinner it is, the closer it comes to penetrating all the way through.

It's like holding up a piece of paper up to a light bulb, you can see the light shining through it. If you put a second piece of paper up, and a third, there will be less light coming through, but all the sheets of paper have the same "UV resistance".

I'm not sure that Opti-Coat doesn't have some UV inhibiting/blocking/resistance by itself (I would say it has to), but Opti-Lens apparently has specific additives for that purpose. An interesting question would be can you use Opti-Lens on your whole car? It's almost twice as expensive as Opti-Coat, ounce for ounce, and I don't know how the coverage compares, but that would be interesting to know if it can be used on paint for max UV protection (and I'm really interested in it for black trim).
 
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