New Paint Polish

Tractorboy

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I am getting my '61 MGA painted using a 2 stage product. I currently have Menzerna Intensive Polish and Menz Final Polish II in my tool box. What combination of Menz polishes should I use on a new finish to get a show quality job.
Thanks
 
Will the painter be wet sanding to remove the orange peel to produce a nice flat painted surface for you to work with?
 
Your question really can't be answered until we see how the painter did at removing his sanding marks. Any suggestions at this point would be just guessing. Perhaps you want to have some powergloss on hand just in case he leaves some 1200 scratches behind. You'll have to do some testing once you get the car back from the painter to see what will be needed to create your show quality finish. What polishers and pads do you have to do the work?
 
Your question really can't be answered until we see how the painter did at removing his sanding marks. Any suggestions at this point would be just guessing. Perhaps you want to have some powergloss on hand just in case he leaves some 1200 scratches behind. You'll have to do some testing once you get the car back from the painter to see what will be needed to create your show quality finish. What polishers and pads do you have to do the work?

Polisher = UDM
Pads = LC CCS yellow, white & red but will buy whatever I need to do the job.

I got some input from Menzerna which reflects what you mentioned about the deeper scratches. Also maybe I should upgrade to the newer products for this job.

"Although you will get very fine results from the products you have, they are of a previous generation and new products have been developed with superior polishing properties.

If your last sanding step is 1500 grit then you would need to begin with PG1000 power gloss compound, followed by SF4000 super finish polish. If you are sanding to 2500 then begin with SI1500 super intensive polish which is a medium polish, followed by SF4000. This should give you a perfect result.

Let me know if I may be of any further assistance.

Best regards,

Jeff Silver"


I heard Mike mention a 5000 grit paper which would cut down on some of the polishing.
 
I heard Mike mention a 5000 grit paper which would cut down on some of the polishing.


I'm not sure it's available to the public yet, we were part of a limited release for testing...


New Toy - #5000 Grit Trizact Foam Finishing Discs



Dave's right in that you can't really determine what you need till you see the condition of the paint after the guy doing the grunt work returns the car to you.


Most of the sanding and buffing done at body shops tends to leave swirls and sanding marks in the paint, that's because doing quality work takes time.

Suffice to say, assuming all the sanding marks are removed and their are no tracers or pigtails, only swirls, then you should be able to remove these using the SIP which is now called SI 1500 and follow this using your Final Polish II which is now FF 3000

Then after 30 days or so seal it up.


I've owned a 1959 MGA and a 1962 MGA Mk II


Back in my British Car faze, I thought of them as the Poorman's AC Cobra, at least after you get rid of the British motor and transmission and install a Chevy or Ford V6



:)
 
I've owned a 1959 MGA and a 1962 MGA Mk II


Back in my British Car faze, I thought of them as the Poorman's AC Cobra, at least after you get rid of the British motor and transmission and install a Chevy or Ford V6



:)
I can't think of anything more scary than having a V6 or 8 in one of these old sports cars. When I was young and extremely foolish I wanted to put one in my Austin Healy 3000. It's a good thing I never got around to it because I probably wouldn't be alive to post on this forum today.

We don't realize how good most new cars handle & brake until we go out and drive one of these old jalopies. But the old stuff has a coolness factor that's off the scale!!

The other day I pulled up to a stop sign and a guy on a bicycle looked down at me and said, "Nobody looks better than you right now." :dblthumb2:
 
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