Yes I would agree with you 100 percent. I pretty much know what orange peel looks like also these little craters or pin holes do not look like orange peel. They appear to be much deeper this is why I had concerns about the painter saying he can rub them out I don't know allot about painting but these imperfections seem to deep and they are not very consistent they are just all over the hood orange peel seems to look more consistent on a surface. I Don't know if the painter was not used to shooting aluminum because that is what a Miata hood is. Its very frustrating I was not happy with the way he put the car back together so I am a bit hesitant to bring this back to him. But at the same time I don't like the idea of paying someone else to repaint it when I just spent all this money to have him paint it. I just tried to take a picture of it and the black just shines right back in the camera like a mirror.
Thanks for you input
Solvent popping
Solvent popping (Fig. 6) is an application phenomenon that occurs when a second coat is applied without sufficient flash time of the first. Solvent, which is still trying to gas out, is trapped underneath the second coat, and as it migrates to the top it bursts, leaving a small crater.
Solvent popping, dirt, and fish eye are commonly mistaken for one another; but with a little knowledge, they can be easily distinguished from each other. First of all, solvent popping generally has a panel-wide distribution, whereas dirt nibs are often found in a single location, often adjacent to a body gap. Dirt that has not been cleaned out properly comes out during application. Fish eye also is limited to a small area, and when examined closely (Fig 7) shows a larger crater, almost volcano-like, where the oil contamination has gathered.
Solvent popping may not be repairable and if severe, the surface must be sanded and repainted. If the solvent popping is not severe, though, the surface may be repaired by sanding and then polishing to produce the desirable gloss and undetectable repair.
Fish eye
Fish eye (Fig. 10) is caused by a contaminant on the surface prior to application of paint. Generally speaking, that contaminant is a light oil (silicon), which has, by whatever means, found its way to the surface of the vehicle. When paint is applied on top of this contaminant, the paint is unable to adhere to the oily surface and a "fish eye crater" is caused.
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Fish eye is a preparation defect. If the surface has been properly cleaned and degreased using a wax and grease remover, fish eye can usually be prevented completely. If fish eye does occur, particularly in the first coat, often painters will let that coat fully tack off, then follow it by a second coat, which often "bridges" the fish eye so that it becomes invisible. A third coat is applied, not only for full coverage but also to make sure that there is sufficient paint for detailing later. After the paint is fully cured, if slight remnants of the fish eye are visible, it can be sanded and polished.
If during the second coat the fish eyes are not bridged, it is highly unlikely that a third coat will accomplish an acceptable result. Therefore, in this instance the finish should be dried, sanded and repainted.
