New Polisher! What to do 1st?

AustrianOak82

AustrianOak82

New member
Joined
Sep 26, 2014
Messages
324
Reaction score
0
I recently completed a round of waxing about a month ago on my 2014 Focus ST and my wife's 2015 Forester, both black. I did a coat of M20 polymer sealant, M7 glaze, and high-tech yellow wax (All Meguiars pro-line). I used my Sears orbital with a microfiber pad to remove the wax and it was applied by hand.

My GG 6" arrives tomorrow and I am looking forward to using it. Both of the cars look good, but in the sun they have some swirling. The Forester is worse and I noticed the clear coat on it is a bit weak. I am wondering what I could use to play with the new polish and attack the swirls at the same time? I might as well be productive testing it out. I have the following at home, all Meguiar's:

Ultimate Polish
Ultimate Compound
Cleaner Wax
Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner
Deep Crystal Polish
Ceep Crystal Carnuba
Polymer Sealant (professional line)
Show Car Glaze (professional line)
High-Tech Yellow Wax (professional line)

If it matters, I have 6 lake county pads, mildly agressive up to fine polish. Will remove with lambswool pad covered in a microfiber.
 
I have a 2015 Subaru Outback in black on order that I'm sure is going to come with factory / dealer installed swirls. I'm about to buy a Flex 3401 and I think I'll probably use either Menzerna FG400 or PF2500 right off the bat and then seal with Sonax PNS.
 
There are a number of variables here, especially without knowing the exact pads available. My first inclination is to start with Ultimate Polish on a white or green CCS pad. If that's not removing the swirls, move up to the Ultimate Compound on a separate white or orange CCS pad assuming that is what is to arrive.
 
What to do first?? Read through this thread by Mike http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/20021-definitive-how-article-removing-swirls-scratches-water-spots-using-porter-cable-7424xp-g110v2-griot-s-garage-polisher.html

I would not be using a MF bonnet to remove the wax or sealant you apply--especially on soft Subaru paint. If the slightest bit of grit or even dried wax/sealant gets on the MF bonnet you are going to add swirls to the finish that you just removed with polish.
 
If you are worried about dealer installed swirls and the car isn't to dirty tell him not to wash it.
Do look the car over carefully for scratches before you take it off the lot. If it is really dirty you may have to let them wash it so you can inspect it properly. This was my situation when I picked up my new car last year. It was pretty dirty as it had been on the lot a while, I let them wash it so that I could look it over. The car did show some light swirls but that's the way it goes.
 
dlc95 said:
There are a number of variables here, especially without knowing the exact pads available. My first inclination is to start with Ultimate Polish on a white or green CCS pad. If that's not removing the swirls, move up to the Ultimate Compound on a separate white or orange CCS pad assuming that is what is to arrive.
Click to expand...

That was my thought as well. I ordered pink-white-green-black-blue-red pads. Pretty much all of them except the mildest and the two harshest.
 
fotomatt1 said:
I have a 2015 Subaru Outback in black on order that I'm sure is going to come with factory / dealer installed swirls. I'm about to buy a Flex 3401 and I think I'll probably use either Menzerna FG400 or PF2500 right off the bat and then seal with Sonax PNS.
Click to expand...

I would think SF4000 would be enough to correct paint on a new Suburu that you are ordering. Since your ordering the car defiantly ask them not to wash it. Paint should be in good shape when you take delivery.
 
AustrianOak82 said:
That was my thought as well. I ordered pink-white-green-black-blue-red pads. Pretty much all of them except the mildest and the two harshest.
Click to expand...

Yes but you only have one of each pad nowhere near enough to do a whole car..
 
DaveT435 said:
I would think SF4000 would be enough to correct paint on a new Suburu that you are ordering. Since your ordering the car defiantly ask them not to wash it. Paint should be in good shape when you take delivery.
Click to expand...

:iagree: I would definitely start there.
 
You can kinda do a whole car with 1 pad.. Just keep cleaning on the fly
 
Kengo123 said:
You can kinda do a whole car with 1 pad.. Just keep cleaning on the fly
Click to expand...

Unless you are running at a slow speed and not much pressure. I don't see it ending up well with either the pad or the BP from the heat. You would have to take a 20 minute break between panels for cool down. To each his own..
 
AustrianOak82 said:
That was my thought as well. I ordered pink-white-green-black-blue-red pads. Pretty much all of them except the mildest and the two harshest.
Click to expand...

Eh, you always want to use the least aggressive combination to start. No point in taking off more paint/clear than necessary, especially for daily drivers where you know it's inevitable some swirls will return.

I'd start with the white pad and Ultimate Polish, then inspect the swirls, if you need more aggressive, move up to the pink and use ultimate compound. Ideally though, you'd have wanted an orange pad or two.

As for your products, Meguiars makes decent products, even in the consumer line. You will see good results with the UC/UP while you get your technique down. If you need better products, look at Menzerna, Wolfgang, XMT etc.

As for pads, the more you have, the better. Not only do you need to clean less, but it also saves you time if you can switch to a new clean pad and keep continuing.
 
AustrianOak82 said:
That is what I read, using the terry cloth method. Is there a telltale sign for when the pad needs cleaned?
Click to expand...

I don't know where you have read you can do a whole car with one pad. Most experienced detailers (pro or hobbyist) will suggest you use 4-6 pads for compounding, at least 4 pads for polishing and then maybe one pad for applying your LSP.

If you try to do the entire car with one pad you are setting yourself up for failure. Spent product (compound or polish) and removed clear coat build up saturating the pad. Cleaning on the fly helps cut down on this and allows you to use the pad a little longer, but even then product and clear build up in the pad which makes it less effective and causes heat to build in the pad and then in the backing plate. Eventually you'll see the center of the pad collapse as it becomes overheated.

Ofcourse you could stop and wash the pad after every couple of panels, but then you have to make sure it is absolutely dry or again heat will build in the pad just as if it were saturated with spent product. So it would take forever to finish just one step as you wait for pads to dry.

Why take the chance of investing all this money in a polisher etc only to have poor results.
 
I didn't say I could do a whole car with one pad. I figured I would need more than one, I just asked if there was a telltale sign it needed cleaned/switched out. Give me some credit here.
 
Originally Posted by Kengo123
You can kinda do a whole car with 1 pad.. Just keep cleaning on the fly

That is what I read, using the terry cloth method. Is there a telltale sign for when the pad needs cleaned?

Sorry for the assumption, but from the above post I assumed you were going to try to do the entire car with one pad for each step. Keep in mind we're talking about multiple pads for each step as an example 4-6 orange pads for compounding, 4 white pads for polishing etc.

As far as signs it needs switched--it's hard to state an absolute as it depends on the product, type of paint, condition etc. I use a product that doesn't require much on the pad and I clean on the fly after every other section and find I use 4-6 pads per car for heavy correction -- about four for polishing.
 
ski2 said:
Originally Posted by Kengo123
You can kinda do a whole car with 1 pad.. Just keep cleaning on the fly

That is what I read, using the terry cloth method. Is there a telltale sign for when the pad needs cleaned?

Sorry for the assumption, but from the above post I assumed you were going to try to do the entire car with one pad for each step. Keep in mind we're talking about multiple pads for each step as an example 4-6 orange pads for compounding, 4 white pads for polishing etc.

As far as signs it needs switched--it's hard to state an absolute as it depends on the product, type of paint, condition etc. I use a product that doesn't require much on the pad and I clean on the fly after every other section and find I use 4-6 pads per car for heavy correction -- about four for polishing.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. I guess I will find out Saturday!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top