New Product - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0

[chris11le]

I think the windshield glass question was asked....while it will work I think it was frowned upon because of the possibility of glare if the coating wasnt applied evenly. I know I wouldnt want to risk that on my windshield (glare from the sun is bad enough, dont want it made even worse).

 

[sportscarhiatus]

But it is not permanent. If you really screw up you can polish it right off again. Then again, I can't imagine how anyone could screw up applying Opti-Coat.

Chris has stated time and time again, that all you need to do is strip the paint of whatever sealants/waxes are on it. How you do it and what you use to do it, is not all that important. We don't have Dawn where I am, but I gather it is a popular dish washing detergent. Any dish detergent is going to strip off what you have. A once only wash with a dish detergent is not going to have any detrimental affect on any automotive paint, be it "scary" soft as one guy put it, or otherwise. Some people do get carried away of these forums...

If you want to practice how to apply it, purchase a bottle of Opti-Seal and get your technique down pat with that. If you know how to apply Opti-Seal then you know how to apply Opti-Coat. I'd also recommend reading the "My Guide on How to Apply Opti-Coat" thread on the Optimum forum, but don't over think it, because the application is really so simple. I promise you, no other sealant is as easy to apply as Opti-Coat or Opti-Seal.

However, don't forget Opti-Coat is not for everyone.

If you enjoy playing and putting in the time with sealants and waxes then it is probably not the way to go. In my opinion, it's pretty hard to beat the look and feel of Poli-Seal, followed by Opti-Seal, followed by Optimum Car Wax on a well prepped vehicle. However, if you are a once a year polish/wax kind of guy then Opti-Coat is the answer and you have a few less products to concern yourself with. I'm sure that sounds good to a lot of people...

ok hold your horses.

You claim opti-coat is not permanent, and that you can polish it off again. If you think about it, you "polish off" your factory clear coat just as easy. Give me 1 minute with a rotary and wool pad, and I'll "polish it off". So in a way, Opti-coat is "permanent", at least wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy more permanent than any other LSP. That's my whole point if you read this entire thread and many others. Why do you think this thread has gone 23 pages and still going? People want to know how this thing REALLY works and is supposed to be applied. That includes all prep work, application, and even post care. As I stated, it's a breakthrough product and people (like me) just want to learn. So I commend you for being fluent with applying Opti-coat. Good for you.

But until I've actually done the application of Opti-coat on my own, I won't feel comfortable. It sounds easy, from what everyone else is saying... good. Good for everyone. I'll try it for myself soon and hopefully I'll think it's "easy" too. And I've done plenty of applications with Opti-seal or Ultima as far as WOWA lsp's. Again, my point is just "concern" (mentally) overall about Opti-coat application... even though it's essentially the same process of application.... I'm just leary overall, because again, to me, it's more "permanent" than any other lsp I've ever used.

And if you read my posts earlier, I want to use Opti-coat for my daily driver. I enjoy detailing and lsp-ing my toys, but not my daily driver. This will relieve a lot of unnecessary stress on my part (because I'm OCD like everyone else on this forum). So until I try OC 2.0, I won't know if it's "the one for me".... hopefully it's "the one" for my dd.

 

[305Cane]

^^ Yeah, I know OPT doesn't recommend the application of OC to your car's windshield due to the reasons you mentioned. My question was more in relation to the various motorcycle windscreens, because I think I can remember reading different accounts of Harley windscreens being "finicky" at times, and requiring certain cleaners, etc. Bike owners, feel free to correct me if I'm off on that.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Chris, are there any concerns with surface application involving the various metals on motorcycles? Also, does OC play nice with the various windscreens, or is it recommended to avoid those....as well as with rear windows on soft top convertibles?

Forgive me if I've missed the answers to these questions somewhere along the line. I appreciate the effort you've put into helping us all!

^^ Yeah, I know OPT doesn't recommend the application of OC to your car's windshield due to the reasons you mentioned. My question was more in relation to the various motorcycle windscreens, because I think I can remember reading different accounts of Harley windscreens being "finicky" at times, and requiring certain cleaners, etc. Bike owners, feel free to correct me if I'm off on that.

Our official stance is glass and windscreen application is at your own risk. I personally have applied it to both with no issue, but Optimum does not recommend applying it to either, officially.

Now with that said...will it adhere and bond to glass and composites, yes. It will also work on any prepped motorcycle metal just fine.

 

[gmck]

Ok hold your horses

A couple of corrections.

I didn’t make the claim it was not permanent, Optimum Polymer Technologies did, please see their web site and their product usage description.

You are correct in that it can be removed just as easily as removing any portion of clear coat as in any regular compounding/polishing process, but please don’t start another myth that you have to drag out a rotary and a wool pad just to remove it. Probably a better description of permanence would be that unlike all other LSPs, it can’t be washed off with a dish washing detergent such as Dawn.

The reason this thread is 23 pages and still going is because of all the ridiculous repeated questions. From my point of view this is where these forums prove to be utterly useless. Just think of how many vehicles you could have Opti-Coated by now by not wasting your time reading all of this… All the required answers were probably contained within the first 4 pages of the thread.

Perhaps you are being a little OCD about Opti-Coat, but please don’t bundle all of us into the same category. How about you give your horse a bit of rein, kick it in the guts and let it fly – you’ll be comfortable using Opti-Coat in no time.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

A couple of corrections.

I didn’t make the claim it was not permanent, Optimum Polymer Technologies did, please see their web site and their product usage description.

Good at least we agree on that. It's even on AG's purchase/agreement/cart.

You are correct in that it can be removed just as easily as removing any portion of clear coat as in any regular compounding/polishing process, but please don’t start another myth that you have to drag out a rotary and a wool pad just to remove it.

That's not a myth. It's a fact. It will be removed. What's your point? We already agree per my point above, so it's moot.

The reason this thread is 23 pages and still going is because of all the ridiculous repeated questions. From my point of view this is where these forums prove to be utterly useless. Just think of how many vehicles you could have Opti-Coated by now by not wasting your time reading all of this… All the required answers were probably contained within the first 4 pages of the thread.

Perhaps you are being a little OCD about Opti-Coat, but please don’t bundle all of us into the same category. How about you give your horse a bit of rein, kick it in the guts and let it fly – you’ll be comfortable using Opti-Coat in no time.

I am OCD and proud of it. This is a forum where we can choose to ask questions and get them answered. If you have a problem with these so-called "repeated" questions, then ignore them. Who asked you particularly anyways? I'd rather hear responses from proven individuals/mods/vendors from this forum. In the years I've been on this forum lurking and participating, it's always been a welcome atmosphere to freely ask and answer questions. There's been many posts that have been asked SO many times before, and members have answered respectfully, including myself. So again, if you have an issue with people like myself asking questions, then ignore them. Simple as that.

But anyways, we digress from the topic. Move on. Either way, Chris and others who have contributed to this thread with knowledgeable information, thank you. I hope OC 2.0 will be as good as it is portrayed to be.

 

[Bert31]

Chris, someone on another thread made the comment that if someone has used used Opti-Seal and has no difficulty applying a thin coat of Opti-Seal which leaves no streaks they should have no problem taking the next step and applying Opti-Coat streak free because the application process is so similar.

This person continued that if someone has never used Opti-Seal, they should probably buy a bottle and use it a few times till they get to the point of being able to apply it consistently without streaks before going to Opti-Coat. Would you agree with this statement?

 

[gmck]

I am OCD and proud of it.

Wow… What got your knickers in such a knot?

I’m sorry, but I just don’t follow your logic. In one post you disagree and in the very next you agree. Is that part of your OCD problem?

Let’s just say you win and I’m out of here… I’m sure by the time this thing grows to 64 pages you’ll be adequately prepared for a successful Opti-Coat application. Good luck with it.

If Chris from Optimum lasts the distance, he’ll be deserving of some type of AG medal.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

hey gmck, make sure you respond to the post right above yours. I believe that's a "repeated question", right? I'm sure it's been answered "plenty of times"? I'm sure you're thinking about being rude to him too.

To Bert31, I won't be rude. The answer to your question would be "yes". From what I've read in this entire thread, the application would be very similar.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Chris, someone on another thread made the comment that if someone has used used Opti-Seal and has no difficulty applying a thin coat of Opti-Seal which leaves no streaks they should have no problem taking the next step and applying Opti-Coat streak free because the application process is so similar.

This person continued that if someone has never used Opti-Seal, they should probably buy a bottle and use it a few times till they get to the point of being able to apply it consistently without streaks before going to Opti-Coat. Would you agree with this statement?

I don't think there's anything to fear just going ahead with Opti Coat 2.0 if that's what you want on the car. But if you can't do your own prep, or can't fix it if you goof you may benefit from using a sealant first. I honestly think that most of the customers for Opti Coat are more than qualified and will have it down by the second or third panel.


Sent from my iPad 2 viaTapatalk

 

[Chris Thomas]

I have a few photos of what Opti Coat looks like when you need to "even it out". This car was coated in adequate lighting, but not inspected from several angles to ensure "flash to clear". This is what to look for on each panel before moving on to the next. You can see the rainbow pattern in some of the photos. Unfortunately these spots were allowed to cure and will have to be re polished.

 

[Elite Pro]

:goodpost:

 

[MI Mike]

Two part question.

After reading the responses and watching the the Detail Fest Video. It was mentioned that to removed Opti-Coat 2.0 you need to polish or use AIO. Which AIO? XMT-360, Klasse AIO or Opt. Poly-Seal, etc. Those that have used Opti-Coat. What works for you.

Could Power Clean be used as a lsp, vs dawn and ipa wipedown??

 

[master detailer]

lol looks like good stuff for some one to do there own car. But as a Detailer I need my guys coming back 2 times a year if your wright they will not need me any more .sorry but I will not be selling this to any one . But will put it on my stuff lol for sure.

 

[RaskyR1]

lol looks like good stuff for some one to do there own car. But as a Detailer I need my guys coming back 2 times a year if your wright they will not need me any more .sorry but I will not be selling this to any one . But will put it on my stuff lol for sure.

If they don't wash the car properly they'll still be coming back.


Almost all my clients lately have been going with Opti-Guard, not necessarily because it promises to last years, but more because it readily sheds dirt, makes washing much easier, reduces marring, and they simply don't have to wax the car anymore....I know I have a hard time finding the time needed to care for my car and having the coating on makes it much easier to do.

However, if the clients are not going to care for it properly (swirl-o-matic washes), it will get scratched up and they will have to come back for polishing.

IMO, the $200 I charge for the applications is worth it even if it has to be reapplied once or twice a year. rops:


Rasky

 

[D_Nyholm]

If they don't wash the car properly they'll still be coming back.


Almost all my clients lately have been going with Opti-Guard, not necessarily because it promises to last years, but more because it readily sheds dirt, makes washing much easier, reduces marring, and they simply don't have to wax the car anymore....I know I have a hard time finding the time needed to care for my car and having the coating on makes it much easier to do.

However, if the clients are not going to care for it properly (swirl-o-matic washes), it will get scratched up and they will have to come back for polishing.

IMO, the $200 I charge for the applications is worth it even if it has to be reapplied once or twice a year. rops:


Rasky

So, you charge $200 for application, but does that include the polishing that the car is going to need? I would think the application would be more in the $300-$500 range to include multistep polishing to get the surface where you want it before application?

Reason i ask this question is i'd like to start offering this but I am not certain where to price it yet.

 

[Perfections]

So, you charge $200 for application, but does that include the polishing that the car is going to need? I would think the application would be more in the $300-$500 range to include multistep polishing to get the surface where you want it before application?

Reason i ask this question is i'd like to start offering this but I am not certain where to price it yet.

I charge 250 for a brand new car, 300 suv/truck which includes removing all the swirls, prices go up from there depending on how long I'll be doing the correction process

 

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

So, you charge $200 for application, but does that include the polishing that the car is going to need? I would think the application would be more in the $300-$500 range to include multistep polishing to get the surface where you want it before application?

Reason i ask this question is i'd like to start offering this but I am not certain where to price it yet.

You should be charging your premium on top of the correction cost.

If your already charging $X for correction add the $200 to that X + $200 = Y

 

[RaskyR1]

So, you charge $200 for application, but does that include the polishing that the car is going to need? I would think the application would be more in the $300-$500 range to include multistep polishing to get the surface where you want it before application?

Reason i ask this question is i'd like to start offering this but I am not certain where to price it yet.

Yes, that price is on top of any correction work.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

If they don't wash the car properly they'll still be coming back.


Almost all my clients lately have been going with Opti-Guard, not necessarily because it promises to last years, but more because it readily sheds dirt, makes washing much easier, reduces marring, and they simply don't have to wax the car anymore....I know I have a hard time finding the time needed to care for my car and having the coating on makes it much easier to do.

However, if the clients are not going to care for it properly (swirl-o-matic washes), it will get scratched up and they will have to come back for polishing.

IMO, the $200 I charge for the applications is worth it even if it has to be reapplied once or twice a year. rops:


Rasky

Rasky... what did you mean by the swirl-o-matic comment? Did you mean people improperly handwashing their cars using a mitt/bucket method? Or did you mean swirls coming from automatic washes where you pay 6-9 bucks? I do that during winter (use the automatic), but I use the touchless, and thus no swirls induced.

I guess if the customer knows how to take care of paint in the first place, they wouldn't be coming to us for services. So even if I choose to give them OC2.0 for example, chances are, they'll be back anyways since undoubtedly, swirls will be back on.