New Product - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0

Just got home and pulled it out of the garage and into the rain after 17 hour cure time in my heated garage at 65* F. I'd say my application turned out to be pretty good based upon the beading I'm getting in the rain. The panels were totally dead as far as beading goes after my prep. This afternoon I noticed the panels were noticeably slicker than last night, but still not LSP (BFWD or Collinite) slick. I've got one heavy spot I'll have to polish and do a spot repair on (pointing to in photo). I think it's a great product and I look forward to doing my wife's car later this week and my waverunner when it warms up. It's amazing how much I was able to cover with 5cc, but I'd use a little more if I had to do it over. Nobody should have any problem using more than 10cc on a large car in my opinion. I did my truck first because it's what I'm least particular about. I still think it's a pretty easy product to use.













 
Just got home and pulled it out of the garage and into the rain after 17 hour cure time in my heated garage at 65* F. I'd say my application turned out to be pretty good based upon the beading I'm getting in the rain. The panels were totally dead as far as beading goes after my prep. This afternoon I noticed the panels were noticeably slicker than last night, but still not LSP (BFWD or Collinite) slick. I've got one heavy spot I'll have to polish and do a spot repair on (pointing to in photo). I think it's a great product and I look forward to doing my wife's car later this week and my waverunner when it warms up. It's amazing how much I was able to cover with 5cc, but I'd use a little more if I had to do it over. Nobody should have any problem using more than 10cc on a large car in my opinion. I did my truck first because it's what I'm least particular about. I still think it's a pretty easy product to use.














I knew you did a good job even though you were worried about only using 6cc. Thats all it "should take for a standard cab truck or say a porsche...Good Job!
 
One thing that's nice about having a blemish like that is that it shows the product is still there. :xyxthumbs:
 
Just went outside to hose the truck off after the rain and I've never seen anything as hydrophobic as this stuff. It repels water so fast it's hard to get a big wide sheet going.

The only trim I applied it to was the door window trim, mirrors and door handles. It darkens the trim some and makes it repel water like crazy. I plan to do the front bumper next and maybe the glass. However, if you have trim that is really discolored or stained be advised it may not hide these defects as well as a dressing. So try to remove defects in the trim prior to application.
 
Chris,

Do you know of anyone who has use this on the (in)famous Nissan/Infiniti ScratchShield paint? My wife's 2009 Infiniti has this type of paint. I am wondering how it would react to a clear coat that basically moves around in the heat. Sealants and wax seem to do alright as far as I can tell, but they do not bond the way this seems so.
 
Chris,

Do you know of anyone who has use this on the (in)famous Nissan/Infiniti ScratchShield paint? My wife's 2009 Infiniti has this type of paint. I am wondering how it would react to a clear coat that basically moves around in the heat. Sealants and wax seem to do alright as far as I can tell, but they do not bond the way this seems so.

I have the same question, and one more:

apparently the paint on my 2011 G37 is VERY VERY soft (Malbec Black). Along with the self healing clearcoat, can I expect OptiCoat to play well with all of it?

I just had the car detailed (compounded, polished, sealant applied)......whats the recommended way to get the sealant off and Opti on? I want to prevent wash/cleaning induced marring so I dont have to polish anything if possible.

Thanks in advance.

-Chris
 
Ok, I have a couple of questions...the 2.0 doesn't have the "do not smell" warning? And do you just get one use out of your applicator (the product hardens so you can't use it next time)?
 
I have the same question, and one more:

apparently the paint on my 2011 G37 is VERY VERY soft (Malbec Black). Along with the self healing clearcoat, can I expect OptiCoat to play well with all of it?

I just had the car detailed (compounded, polished, sealant applied)......whats the recommended way to get the sealant off and Opti on? I want to prevent wash/cleaning induced marring so I dont have to polish anything if possible.

Thanks in advance.

-Chris

Didn't Infiniti cancel the scratchshield paint on the G's? I have a 2010 and it does not have the scratchshield paint. My sisters FX35 does not have it either.

To remove the sealant, you can use Optimum Power Clean full strength or 1:1 sprayed onto the paint and then washed off. You can also use a Dawn carwash.
 
Depending upon your prior LSP, Dawn may not be sufficient. It wasn't for me with Collinite and BFWD (if recent).
 
Didn't Infiniti cancel the scratchshield paint on the G's? I have a 2010 and it does not have the scratchshield paint. My sisters FX35 does not have it either.

To remove the sealant, you can use Optimum Power Clean full strength or 1:1 sprayed onto the paint and then washed off. You can also use a Dawn carwash.

Well, using Chem Guys citrus at the correct dilution did not seem to remove some oils that were on the car....either from dealer installed stuff, or my polish (even though it was water based), or both. So I wasnt sure if that would happen again (from my polish) or if it was just a one time thing (from the dealer)

As far as the ScratchShield, they brought it back for 2011, and promptly cancelled it (AGAIN). I feel like I got hosed because I bought a 2011 that came with it, because I still havent heard about how OptiCoat will play with it (and in combination of the scratchshield and my uber soft paint)
 
Ok, I have a couple of questions...the 2.0 doesn't have the "do not smell" warning? And do you just get one use out of your applicator (the product hardens so you can't use it next time)?

The new syringes of the Pro version no longer have it either....probably because of all the questioning by people when it first came out.

I toss my applicators and MF towels after using them to apply any of the coatings. :)
 
That being said it's probably not healthy to directly inhale/smell the products we use, despite whether or not they have pleasant scents.

I'd call optimum direct about the scratch shield. I wish I had when I first went to apply it-I could've saved some time.

I did remove two spots of bird mess today and the coating didn't seem to bead quite as strong under their prior location. But I also haven't washed the truck yet.
 
Can Opti-Coat 2.0 be used on top of Megs #7?

It's been years since I've used it, but isn't that a glaze? I would not use it myself. Just jewel the paint and you'll be great.
 
It's been years since I've used it, but isn't that a glaze? I would not use it myself. Just jewel the paint and you'll be great.

I plan on polishing the paint to perfection before applying OC 2.0.
#7 is a pure polish and you can put sealants and waxes on top of it.
It adds a nice shine and wondering if OC 2.0 will play nice on top #7.

Just doing a little research first...
 
I plan on polishing the paint to perfection before applying OC 2.0.
#7 is a pure polish and you can put sealants and waxes on top of it.
It adds a nice shine and wondering if OC 2.0 will play nice on top #7.

Just doing a little research first...

I highly doubt it... since #7 is rich in polishing oils and my understanding is that the surface should be stripped of such oils in order to promote bonding of the coating, it might be a counter-intuitive step.
 
I'm not sure about the Nissan paint.

The do not smell was removed when we changed the carrier well before the intro of 2.0.


Sent from my iPad 2 viaTapatalk
 
I'm not sure about the Nissan paint.

The do not smell was removed when we changed the carrier well before the intro of 2.0.


Sent from my iPad 2 viaTapatalk

Is that something you can find out about? Is there a tech line I should call instead?

Thanks
 
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