New to detailing and building my kit of supplies/equipment from scratch

The Cobra MF kit comes with a Cobra micro-chenille wash mitt. I'm also going to yield to the collective wisdom here and move to the UDM and Edge 2000 kit, which is slightly cheaper than the PC/Edge kit (missing the red pad, but I won't have a use for that until next summer, when I may start putting a layer of carnauba down over top of the sealant).
Speaking of the MF kit, I sat down and calculated everything yesterday, and actually needed more MF than it provided (although I'll have four MF gloves for... something).

Here's my list of MF needs, which I modeled on AUdakota's list above:
2x cheapies for drying wheels/tires after wash (some I have around from Canadian Tire)
2x cheapies for buffing in the DP Wheel Glaze
1x Ultimate Guzzler for car-drying after wash
1x Miracle towel to wipe door jambs, sills, and trunk/hood edges
2x Detailing towels for claying
2x Indigo towels to remove XMT#2
2x Indigo towels to remove Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion
(Klasse sealant removed with MF bonnets on unused Edge foam pad)
2x glass towels (one for exterior, one for interior)
1x Detailing towel for interior dry wipe/dusting
1x Detailing towel to remove excess Pinnacle Leather Cleaner & Conditioner

When all is said and done, I have 2x Miracle towels and 2x Indigo left over, which may replace the cheapies, if that's appropriate.
For soap, I've moved to Gold Class, since the 4in1 doesn't explicitly say it won't remove wax/sealant... which would be very bad in the winter, with no way to reapply anything that came off.
 
Oh, and I dropped the Micro-Rejuvenator, because the Pinnacle MF cleaning stuff comes free with the MF kit. If I find it doesn't work as well, I'll replace it, but in the meantime... well, free is nice.
My current list (probably putting in the order first thing Monday morning):

Washing
OXO Caddy & Bucket Combo
Pinnacle Wheel & Tire Kit
Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Pad
Cobra Total Microfiber Tool Kit
DP Wheel Glaze (not entirely sure I need this... she's not a show car, but I do want her to look shiny all the time)
Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo
Cobra Waffle Weave MF Glass Towel x2
Stoner Invisible Glass Pump Spray
Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay (stuck with this... included MF made it cost-effective)

Waxing
Ultimate Detailing Machine
The Edge Dual Action 6 Inch Kit
Cobra Indigo Microfiber Polishing Cloth 6 Pack
XMT Fine Swirl Remover #2
Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion (I'm assuming that after using XMT#2, I won't need an ultra-fine swirl remover)
Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (back to the Klasse)

Interior
Mat & Carpet Scrub Brush
Two Way Mini Detailing Brush
Metro Vac N'Blo® Portable Vacuum
DP Total Interior Cleaner
Pinnacle Vinyl & Rubber Protectant (for interior surfaces and the exterior black plastic/rubber trim)
Pinnacle Leather Cleaner & Conditioner

Miscellaneous
OXO Good Grips Snow & Ice Duo

Random question: Since I've chosen a shampoo that won't strip the sealant/wax, what do I use when I do want to strip it (I plan to seal/wax quarterly)? Is dish soap safe for that?
 
I would get a few nice buffing towels, I either the super plush deluxes or the super plush deluxe juniors both are very good for removing polishes and sealants.
 
also have you thought about a collinite wax, I think that would be able to last an entire winter if you didnt use a super harsh soap. A lot of people use it as a winter wax.
 
as for stripping the wax, the polish will def. do it but if you dont need/want to polish than the pinnacle lotion will do a good job of cleaning everything off and leaving a nice surface for a wax or sealant.
 
The Indigos are apparently just about the best thing going for removing polishes and sealants (according to Autogeek, anyway), which is why I added them to my list.
I have considered a collinite wax, but I'm going to see how things go this winter with just the Klasse; it claims that it can last up to a year. I figure that I should learn to detail before getting into multi-layer finishes. I'm basically going to be like a caveman flying a 747 as it is; literally all I know about polishing and waxing comes from the snazzy Autogeek videos on the Edge 2000 page. I don't even know if I'm supposed to wax the entire painted surface, or just the metal panels (i.e. not the bumper, front fascia, etc.). It'd seem like getting the DA to do the hatchback lip would be... interesting.
 
If your going with the Klasse...I would highy recommend the Klasse AIO...best base for Klasse SG..it insures no bonding issues...klasse SG is a pretty finicky product in regards to what it wants to bond to....

I live in the North East snow country..and I used Klasse twins for years..and it will last the winter...topping it with a collinite paste wax was even better....the wax took the beating and the klasse twins kept the protection in check....the collinite was the sacrifical barrier....

but the most effective way to get the klasse protection is the twins...AIO and SG....you will not regret it....

and using SG ..thin is in..I mean thin...if you see it on the paint its to much....at first do the wipe on wipe off method for the SG...then learn how to let it sit awhile and buff off....it does work ....if you have a hard time removing it..use a damp MF..comes right off...

Al
 
Okay, so would the Klasse AIO replace just the Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, or the XMT#2 Fine Swirl remover as well?
Also, how much of this stuff is used on an average vehicle? Watching the tutorial, it looks like a nickel-size amount per 2' x 2' area, but the Klasse AIO page mentions 1oz for the whole vehicle, which just seems... very not much.
I can sense I'm going to have problems getting the amount right.
 
The AIO will replace the body cleanser....the XMT #2 is a swirl remover...a different type product....AIO is a cleanser and also it has a sealant in it..its used as a base for Klasse SG.....AIO will chemicaly clean the paint of any oils or polish residue BUT will also lay a base coat for Klasse SG to grab to (bond)....

Klasse SG has a little learning curve....for a beginner I would do the wipe on wipe off method at first....use a damp...I mean DAMP..not wet....yellow foam pad to apply it...by hand..not machine....put about a dime size glob on the pad...work a fender..even though you do not see it on the paint..its there....after done wipeing it on...buff it off.....do the whole car like that....on the hood do a quarter of the hood at a time....you will get the knack of it..just do not glob it on...there are a ton of posts on some detailing forums that explain good techniques to apply it....worth reading

AL
 
Is Klasse specifically finicky, or is it just the nature of the art? DG105 was also recommended to me earlier, and if it's easier to use, perhaps I'd be better off with that, and move up to the trickier stuff once I have an idea as to what I'm doing.
So the hood really will have to be done a quarter at a time, just like in the little video. I take it there's no worry about overlapping the sections a bit? They used painter's tape in the video to mark off each section, but if I did that, I'd end up with bare paint under the tape unless I moved it over to the just-waxed part. Will tape pull wax off a car?
I feel like I need "detailing for dummies," or just to watch someone experienced go to it. I'm poking around in Detailing University now, though, and picking up some pointers.
 
I am big fan of DG 105..but also a big fan of Klasse...both offer very good protection....I do not want to steer you from Klasse....as its a fine product...put it this way..if you master the klasse..you can use anything..its not hard...I will try to find you a good link written by a guy who mastered the klasse..his method works...and you will have no problems....klasse and collinite is a bullet proof combo....

give me time to find it...its been a while since I looked at it....

Al
 
BlackObs said:
Is Klasse specifically finicky, or is it just the nature of the art? DG105 was also recommended to me earlier, and if it's easier to use, perhaps I'd be better off with that, and move up to the trickier stuff once I have an idea as to what I'm doing.
So the hood really will have to be done a quarter at a time, just like in the little video. I take it there's no worry about overlapping the sections a bit? They used painter's tape in the video to mark off each section, but if I did that, I'd end up with bare paint under the tape unless I moved it over to the just-waxed part. Will tape pull wax off a car?
I feel like I need "detailing for dummies," or just to watch someone experienced go to it. I'm poking around in Detailing University now, though, and picking up some pointers.
Click to expand...

Therefor the Duragloss line.

DG 101 on the car, let dry, remove
DG 105 on the car, let dry, remove (needs 12-24h curing)
DG 111 on the car, let dry, remove

No painters tape, easy as 1-2-3, great gloss, one of the most bullet proof combos for harsh winters (i use 101/105 in Norway, and WE just love TO salt the roads here) Just got the DG111 myself, so i dont know about durability during winter regarding this one, but with the 101 and 105 under, the combo should last def +6 months

+ Some DG aquawax to boost things up if you manage to wash the car during the winter months.
 
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