New to detailing, black vehicle questions

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rsm688

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Mike, I just picked up a 2006 Hummer H3 that is black, it was filthy when I got it and looks like tthe previous owner left it covered in mud for a while. I washed it up well and there are several scratches in the paint, none go through the clear coat however some are pretty large ones. There also is some mild oxidation (or looks like oxidation) around the hood louver trim and under the door handles.

I am going to purchase one of the Porter Cable 7424 packages from the Auto Geek store. Is there a particular kit you would recommend for my vehicle? Or what pads/abrasive compound you would recommend? Should I try and remove the scratches and oxidation by hand and then use the buffer to go over everything after?

I would like to get rid of the scratches and oxidation and then thoroughly buff/polish/seal the entire vehicle.


Thanks,
Spencer
 
Black paint- scratches and light oxidation/

I just picked up a 2006 Hummer H3 that is black, it was filthy when I got it and looks like the previous owner left it covered in mud for a while and the undercarriage was muddy. I washed it up well and there are several scratches in the paint, none go through the clear coat however some are pretty large ones. There also is some mild oxidation (or looks like oxidation) around the hood louver trim and under the door handles.

I am going to purchase one of the Porter Cable 7424 packages from the Auto Geek store. Is there a particular kit you would recommend for my scenario? Or what pads/abrasive compound you would recommend? Should I try and remove the scratches and oxidation by hand and then use the buffer to go over everything after?

I would like to get rid of the scratches and oxidation and then thoroughly buff/polish/seal the entire vehicle.


Thanks,
Spencer
 
Re: Black paint- scratches and light oxidation/

I recommend you to step up to the Griot's Garage 6 inch polisher if its within your budget. For paint correction I try to stay at 5 inch or 5.5 inch pads for better control.

I say give AG a call to help with your selection
 
Hi Spencer,

That's a lot of vehicle to have to buff out when the paint is in great shape and a lot more work when it's in bad shape.

If you get the Porter Cable 7424 get the 5" backing plate and the 5.5" Lake Country Flat pads I show in this article,

Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation


I use Pinnacle polishes for most of the show cars we work on here at AG and they all come out as expected. I switched Wayne Carini's shop over to Pinnacle polishes and now all his cars come out looking like they should.

They cost a lot more than off the shelf products but they work consistently and remember... factory clearcoats are thin. There's really no room for error.


There's no compound in the Pinnacle line so if you need more umph then I'd recommend the Uber Compound and the Finishing Glaze in the Wolfgang line.

The Wolfgang Four


Either choice and you'll get the results you're looking for and hoping for the first time.


For tight areas and thin panels, also consider getting a 3.5" backing plate for the Porter Cable, Lake Country makes one and we recently brought in 4" Lake Country Flat pads that will fit the 3.5" backing plate.


:)
 
Hi Spencer....

I merged your two threads on the same topic. The way forums work is you post a single thread for a single topic. Double posting just causes confusion. No big deal as we were all new to the forum world at one point.


:dblthumb2:
 
Thanks a ton Mike!

For the mild oxidation under the door handles and around the hood louvre, should I try and remove it by hand first or just use the buffer on them as well? Its just small areas surrounding the trim pieces

Should I use an orange pad and the Uber Compound over the areas with the heavier scratches and oxidation and then use one of the Pinnacle or Uber milder polishes after?

I was planning on the 5" backing plate and 6.5" CCS pads plus 3.5" backing plate and 4" pads for smaller areas.

So does this plan look good, feel free to suggest other products or what not:

Wash
Pinnacle Clay Bar
Uber Compound or #3 /3.0 Swirl remover with Orange CCS Pad
Fine Swirl Remover (#1 or 1.0) with White CCS Pad
Sealant with Gray CCS Pad
Finishing glaze/carnuba Wax



I'll post some pictures of the problem areas with the paint when I get home so you know exactly what I will be working on.

Thanks,
Spencer
 
Re: Black paint- scratches and light oxidation/

Zelfiris said:
I recommend you to step up to the Griot's Garage 6 inch polisher if its within your budget. For paint correction I try to stay at 5 inch or 5.5 inch pads for better control.

I say give AG a call to help with your selection
Click to expand...

Zelfiris, I can afford the Griot's 6" or the Porter Cable, although I don't want to spend the money to buy both and with the 6" I figured it would be very difficult to work with smaller areas
 
Congratulations on the black H3 and the new Job that comes along with it.

Eventually, the Orange Peel on that truck will drive you mad...but, I give you at least a year for the Detailing Bug to drive you to that level of madness.
 
I would use Sonax Perfect Finish along with an cutting pad and a polishing pad.
 
Lets see some pics! From what your saying I would probably go with with Uber Compound and the Finishing Glaze.
 
rsm688 said:
Zelfiris, I can afford the Griot's 6" or the Porter Cable, although I don't want to spend the money to buy both and with the 6" I figured it would be very difficult to work with smaller areas
Click to expand...

There is good advice in this thread. The PC and GG6 each can be used with any appropriate pad from 3" to 6.5" with the correct backing plate(BP). The GG6 is just a better machine due to it's significantly higher power output. I own both and would get the GG6.

You will likely also need a smaller BP. Honestly, it's best to use this machine with 5.5" pads to attack defects and 3" or 4" pads on smaller areas.

So, if possible - get the machine along with a 5.5" and 2 &7/8" or 3.5" BP. You can always use smaller pads on larger areas - but not vice-versa. So, getting a 2 & 7/8" BP & 3" pads may make more sense then 3.5" BP and 4" pads.

I'd go with Wolfgang polishes. I'd all 3 - cause you don't know what will work for sure. I'd prolly get these over Pinnacle - as I don't believe Pinnacle makes a polish as good as Uber Compound. But, you may not need a compound - you have to assess the paint. But you never know - and it's good to have everything on hand you will need prior to starting a project.
 
Thanks a ton for the advice guys, I am not expecting this paint to turn out perfect or be a show vehicle as it is an 8 year old vehicle that has obviously been neglected, but I would like to get it looking as best as I can. Attached are some pictures, I was mistaken it appears a few of the scratches have gone through the clear coat and paint but the majority is clear coat scratches. The paint is dirty right now as I have been out of town for a ten days and just got back. I wiped a few spots off in the pictures to give you an idea of what was under it. Here you go:












I also need to redye the trim black and remove water stains from the windows as well, going to be a big project.
Thanks,
Spencer
 
Oof. How I would probably approach in progression from least aggressive to more aggressive, depending on how a test spot turned out:

Meguiar's D300 on DA Microfiber Cutting Disc
Meguiar's M205 on Lake Crystal White or Orange Pad
Menzerna FG400 or Meguiar's M105 on Lake Crystal Yellow or Orange Pad or Meguiar's DA Microfiber Xtra Cutting Disc

If you end up having to go with a heavy cut like FG400 or M105, you're definitely going to want a second (and maybe even third) step. Black paint typically is the most susceptible to hazing\marring.

Menzerna PF2500 on Lake Country White pad
Meguiar's D302 with DA Microfiber Buffing Disc
Menzerna SF4500 on Lake Crystal White or Black Pad

CarPro Spotless is awesome for removing water spots.

SolutionFinish or CarPro DLux are your best bets for the black trim.
 
Thanks Revitalize! Should I wash the vehicle first, then use the CarPro spotless for the water spots, wash again, then clay bar and so on? Or should I wash, clay bar, CarPro spotless?

Sorry if these are newbie questions, I've worked on vehicles for years but never done much with detailing other than washing, carnuba wax, and interior/tires
 
I look at those pics and I did my brothers 08 black tahoe also chevy paint and close to the same condition. I would probably plan on going to Mezerena 400 or M105 on a orange pad. you will get 90% with those and then can decide if you want to go further (2 step to mezerenza 4500 or M205). Also I have GG6 and its great machine I got in kit with 6.5 CCS pads and after getting the 5" backing plate and 5.5 Flat pads there is no comparison how much easier and powerful the 5.5 pads are. I also have the 3 3/4 Backing plate and 4"ccs pads don't care for those pads am going order set 4" flat pads. Also have the small GG3 machine and I never break it out by time i switch plugs and set up I can just change Backing plates. 3" is nice for applying wax from a paste jar and doing really tight bumpers and trunks. Also GG6 lifetime warranty and I have heard nothing but good stories from the few who have had to use it no hassles at all.
 
Carpro spotless is kinda a waste if you clay and compound cant hurt buy clay and especially compound will make them go bye bye. Use carpro Spotless for water spots before you wax when you are not polishing or compounding. Also can use it for times when like what happened to me, you go to dinner or shopping and come out to black car in the baking sun getting hit with a sprinkler in the middle of the day hard water spots baked in all over the car.
 
RevitalizeAutoSpa said:
Oof. How I would probably approach in progression from least aggressive to more aggressive, depending on how a test spot turned out:

Meguiar's D300 on DA Microfiber Cutting Disc
Meguiar's M205 on Lake Crystal White or Orange Pad
Menzerna FG400 or Meguiar's M105 on Lake Crystal Yellow or Orange Pad or Meguiar's DA Microfiber Xtra Cutting Disc

If you end up having to go with a heavy cut like FG400 or M105, you're definitely going to want a second (and maybe even third) step. Black paint typically is the most susceptible to hazingmarring.

Menzerna PF2500 on Lake Country White pad
Meguiar's D302 with DA Microfiber Buffing Disc
Menzerna SF4500 on Lake Crystal White or Black Pad

CarPro Spotless is awesome for removing water spots.

SolutionFinish or CarPro DLux are your best bets for the black trim.
Click to expand...



IMO, D300 on the Megs DAMF Cutting Pad is much more aggressive than M205 on a White or Orange Lake Country Pad.



I have no doubt that the Meguiar's DAMF Cutting Pad paired with D300 will bust this out. I have used the 3" version on my Black GMC Truck. Cuts well. Finishes well. You will have to follow-up with a polish as it usually leaves some haze behind on black paint.

I followed up with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover on a White Lake Country Pad

I have also gone a step further and finished with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze (a polish).
I suggest doing a Test Spot with this as you may not be able to see a difference on a lot of paint systems.


If your trim is really faded; Solution Finish is a good product. If it is not total faded; CarPro DLUX is a Great product. Your truck will take you long enough to properly wash, that you will appreciate not having to dress the trim every time.
 
Thanks a ton for all the help guys. Three more things:


Is 2 clay bars enough for one vehicle?

Would you recommend the CCS pads or the plain flat Lake pads?

What about a good class cleaner to help remove some water spots?



Thanks,
Spencer
 
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