New to Detailing

I would disagree about skipping steps and going straight to a rotary. Many people including myself learned on a rotary. As long as you use common sense and pay attention everything will be fine. It always baffles me when people get on a forum and say a da is for a beginner and a rotary will burn paint. It is not the tools fault it is the person operating the tool that burns paint. I would not use a rotary to apply your lsp even at a lower speed. Good luck on your detailing with a rotary and if you need any help when you get it just ask and we will guide you through it.



I would disagree about skipping steps and going straight to a rotary. Many people including myself learned on a rotary. As long as you use common sense and pay attention everything will be fine


I agree with you, I will see how I do with the rotary and I won't quit easily on it. later on I maybe saying skipping the DA step is a mistake. so we will see my friend



It always baffles me when people get on a forum and say a da is for a beginner and a rotary will burn paint. It is not the tools fault it is the person operating the tool that burns paint


Yes I will respect the tool.



I would not use a rotary to apply your lsp even at a lower speed.


I see....so LSP is hand or DA? maybe I will try with the rotary and maybe you'll prove your point to me and other newbies. hehe:buffing:
 
^

As for all the hate towards starting with a rotary.

Just to note, there was no hate towards the rotary on my part, heck I started with the rotary buffer and air-powered DA Sanders for a dual action polisher as the Porter Cable wood sanders had not yet been introduced to the detailing world as a car polisher.

If you re-read my initial post, my point was to help the OP figure out what market he wanted to target and if he's starting out as a Newbie then it's really not practical to offer show car detailing until he cuts his teeth on at least a few cars as he dials in products, pads and techniques that work for him. Wouldn't everyone agree that makes sense?

Also, if you re-read what I wrote, if a person's doing daily drivers to start with then using a rotary is going to take some or all of the profit out of the job because it requires more than one step unless you're going to turn out cars with swirls in the paint.

Again, think about the market... some Soccer mom wanting her Chevy Astro detailed just wants the paint clean and shiny, she probably doesn't know what swirls are and more than likely doesn't want to pay for a multiple step, show car finish on her grocery getter, more than likely she really wants the interior restored to look, feel and smell like new.

I've used a rotary buffer as much as anyone on this forum or any forum and probably more when compared to most people, almost all of my work has been special interest cars, that is multiple-step rotary buffer buff-outs, I can only think of one production detail I've done in my entire life that was a one step job and it left such a bad taste in my mouth I've never done another and never looked back.

If he wants to start out using a rotary buffer I'm here to help him learn but in all honesty he's also going to want a DA polisher for the finishing steps as it's not usually a good idea to apply your LSP with a rotary buffer. You can do it by hand but why not get the tired and true DA Polisher like I originally suggested and for a zillion great reasons that thousands of other detailers and serious enthusiasts confirm just by the fact that they are so popular are a great way to tackle most, (not all), detail jobs.

For any job I tackle I take at a minimum a rotary buffer and a DA polisher. Everything can be tackled with one of these two tool. I like the Flex 3401 and the Cyclo and I'm looking forward to using the new and more powerful Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher but again, anything can be tackled using a RB and DA and your Hand.

The spectrum is from wet-sanding fresh paint all the way to restoring original antique paint and everything else is in-between these two spectrums.

I fed myself for years using a rotary buffer and actually wore the sand-cast rough sides of my trusty, dusty Makita smooth like chrome after years of use so just for everyone that will ever read this thread into the future knows, there's no hate on my part towards the rotary, in fact the rotary buffer is my friend.

My original Makita showing where I wore the sides smooth after years of buffing...
600_mediumshotafter15yearsofbuffing.jpg


600_closeupafter15yearsofbuffing.jpg




So to the OP, (Original Poster), by all means keep your rotary but also look into getting a PC 7424XP or the Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher or wait till January and test out the new Meguiar's G110v2


The do lots of this....

:buffing: :buffing: :buffing:
 
I would disagree about skipping steps and going straight to a rotary. Many people including myself learned on a rotary. As long as you use common sense and pay attention everything will be fine. It always baffles me when people get on a forum and say a da is for a beginner and a rotary will burn paint. It is not the tools fault it is the person operating the tool that burns paint. I would not use a rotary to apply your lsp even at a lower speed. Good luck on your detailing with a rotary and if you need any help when you get it just ask and we will guide you through it.

I'm with Dana...

A rotary buffer is not an evil tool, it's only when it's improperly used does it yield bad results. It has the potential to do more harm because it's a powerful direct drive tool, but in and of itself its just tool waiting to be mastered.

I would suggest adding some type of dual action polisher to your arsenal however to give you more options as to how to address each situation you'll come up against.

Plus you can use a DA sander for Damp Sanding as this will be the trend in the future.


:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks Mike for your input


I read it somewhere about people switching from DA to rotary and never touch their DA again. So that made me go and get the rotary. I know rotary is a powerful tool, I will pratice and pratice with it. My goal is to offer all kinds of detail from daily driver to show car. I believe whatever a DA can do, a rotary can do, but I might be wrong cause I never try any machine buffing.
 
If your going to get into polishing with the rotary, then a D.A would be a good investment as well.
 
If your going to get into polishing with the rotary, then a D.A would be a good investment as well.




I guess its a good investment, because you can use the DA to do LSP faster? I guess you can't use the rotary to apply wax and buff wax or LSP for that matter? so rotary is only for paint correction? and if you're doing a DD ( daily driver) detail, a DA will get the job done faster?
 
I guess its a good investment, because you can use the DA to do LSP faster? I guess you can't use the rotary to apply wax and buff wax or LSP for that matter? so rotary is only for paint correction? and if you're doing a DD ( daily driver) detail, a DA will get the job done faster?

Applying lsp by hand is alot faster to me than by a da. The rotary will do everything for you, paint correction and your final polishing step. I don't know what you mean by a da would be faster for a DD then a rotary, I would have to disagree with you there.
 
DSC06952.jpg



so heres my steps for practicing on the door. the door paint is pretty new. has a few scratches and light swirl marks.

1) wash and dry really well, no need to clay cause the surface feels smooth.

2) wet sand, I have 3000 grid down to 1200. what should I use?

3) coumpound

4) swirl removal to remove the swirls made by the sanding and compound

5) polish

6) sealant

7) wax


thats just my idea, If im wrong please tell me the steps. Im only practicing, I want to make scratches (not below the clear coat) and remove scratches.:buffing::buffing::buffing::buffing::
 
I have started my own personal detail business and while flyers are good they are not as successful as you might imagine. Word of mouth is the best form of advertisement. I wish you all the best and take it slow in the beginning and you will get it down.
Peace,
Jon


I have also found this to be true. Something that has worked well for me is to create different "packages" and put them onto quarter fliers. Most people when they ask me about my business they immediately want to know the prices. When they see everything listed then its strikes conversation on what is claying, polishing etc. Hope this helps!
 
I don't know what you mean by a da would be faster for a DD then a rotary, I would have to disagree with you there.



from what I read DA is a easier tool to use for inexperience people (me), because you don't have to worry about burning the paint? so im asking, for light swirls with no paint correction, would DA be faster? or if I master rotary, I can do it faster and better? I have no experience with any machine polishers, so its seems like im asking dumb questions, but any tips will be appreciated. :bowdown:
 
from what I read DA is a easier tool to use for inexperience people (me), because you don't have to worry about burning the paint? so im asking, for light swirls with no paint correction, would DA be faster? or if I master rotary, I can do it faster and better? I have no experience with any machine polishers, so its seems like im asking dumb questions, but any tips will be appreciated. :bowdown:

Both tools are easy to use. If you are just trying to knock out some light swirls, just use a finishing pad and polish. Just practice with your rotary and you will be fine, plus taking care while polishing and you will not burn the paint. None of your questions are dumb, but practicing with what you have above will ease your mind.
 
everything I need will be here Monday!!! I can't wait to practice and see what I can do!!!!:buffing::buffing::buffing:
 
Making some swirls on 1/2 of the panel to practice!!!! can't wait for monday for the stuff to come!!! the other 1/2 I will use wet sand. I read you start with rough then to fine grid. compound afterwards, then swirl romoval, then apply wax sealant.
 
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Do yourself a favor and ditch the turtle brand compound. That stuff is so aggressive it will strip the paint off your test panels. It was designed to be used by hand by some old timer who knows nothing about swirls. Just look at the bumper piece you posted, those scratches from the turtle compound are very deep. So deep I wonder if you would be able to polish them back out without going through the clear. Man I hope you have some liability insurance because if you intend on using products like that with a rotary you are going to need the insurance.

I just re read the thread and must appologize as I missed the fact that the turtle compound was applied by hand. I hope you were just using that product to induce some swirls into the paint to correct as practice.
 
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Welcome to my thread!!! Yes I didn't buy the turtle, my detail shop say I can keep it. I guess that's the reason they don't want it. Lol
 
The reason I got into this bussiness is that my detailing shop at the dealership isn't performing great shine on my cars or customor's car. And I know I can do better, they charge too much and results are so blad. Even the R8 looks like every Audi on the showroom.
 
i live on a very busy street and im planing to do professional car washes just to get my name out. but how much should I charge for fast wash and dry?
 
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these are the pads I have, I used all of them already, the wool pads make a mess, the orange foam has very little cutting power, I kinda mess up the white foam pad by cleaning improperly.

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this is what i got today, I took out some light swirl marks but some still present. and theres a lot of halograms

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I also try wet sand, I went from 1200 grit to 2000 grit, after compound a few times and polish, I still see wet sand scratchs. I used oraange pad at 1500 rpm and white foam pad at 1200 rpm. do I need a more cutting power foam pad? I need more pratice.​
 
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