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BradWallace

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Greetings to all:

My vehicles:

2004 Tundra Double Cab - Black (polished)
2007 Pathfinder - Black (not yet polished)
2014 Accord Coupe - Black (not yet polished)

Equipment & Material:
Dewalt Rotary DWP849x
Norton Liquid Ice polish
Norton Liquid Ice White Pad. (big pad)
Adams patriot wax.

I have polished the Tundra with the Norton Liquid ice only, thats all the local NAPA store sold me, Truck looks great until it's out in sunlight. I went back to NAPA, was told to cut the same product with water... (not the solution I was looking for)

I am considering the 3M 3 step system: Part #'s 6064,6068,6085 along with the the different pads to use with each part #. (my local body shop told me to do so, yes, I do trust them)

I am wanting to choose smaller pads & backing plates.

Before I choose to go 3M...

Yes / No? or what advise?

Brad Wallace
Edwardsville, IL.
 
Do you have experience using a rotary (besides this go)?

Body shops are not typically the bastion of good detailing advice as we practice it here. If you are not married to buying stuff locally, you can get some great products here. And although we normally wouldn't suggest starting out with a rotary, we can work with that, too.
 
I have some 3M products (also from a body shop). They work well but do have some quirks. I have found that the Meguire's Ultimate compound and polish do as good of a job, if not better than the 3M but are much easier to work with, especially for a beginner to high end polishing. The 3M in my opinion does not have as long of a working time and dusts a lot. I do not have the experience to work with a rotary yet. I am using a Porter Cable 7424XP with multiple foam pads. With the PC, foam pads, Meg's Ultimate compounds and reading some of Mike's tutorials, a beginner can achieve results close to what the experienced people around here do.
 
Thanks Gentlemen...

I am new to the Rotary... I intend to keep using it... I have only polished the double cab tundra with a black fiberglass bed topper... 1000 rpm's and I did no damage... A porter cable is a consideration, but only to improve a project, NOT as an easier or safer method...

I have received conflicting opinions from body shop friends & detail guys online...

so...

1) I am not afraid of the rotary, have done no damage...

2) have the money to go porter cable if needed...

That said... point me to product on AutoGeek that compares to the 3M system I am considering... (pads too)

THANKS

bw
 
Welcome Brad.

Bingo...the WG 4 along with some LC Hybrid pads on your rotary. 6 orange, 6 white and 3 black.

And hopefully you have not done or will do any damage but you may have left some micromarring or holograms in all that black paint. A black pad and the finest WG polish (Finishing Glaze) should remove them if you did. Again, maybe and hopefully you did not and are fine.
 
Does the Wolfgang 4 come in a set? (Can't find them in AG store)

Or sold separate ?

My Current pad:
Norton Liquid ice - 9" white foam.

Backing plate: Dewalt 6.75" / 5/8" drive

Guys: link me to the exact backing plates & pads I need...

The 9" pad is good for bed topper & hood, but not fenders & doors...

Also: Sealant? heard of it, BUT why do I need it? instead of

wax? or before wax?

Please advise.....

And YES Puckman... I have holograms in the sunlight... no damage. I am a very cautious person...

bw
 
Last edited:
The holograms are why I don't use a rotary. Only those with the best technique and experience can use a rotary to get a flawless finish. There are many that compound with a rotary and polish with a DA. I for one, can't use a rotary without holograms no matter how hard I try so I sick with my DA. The rotary is a great tool to have, I just save it for my boat and heavy compounding.
 
Welcome Brad.
Holograms are easy to instill with a Rotary with Polishes. With Glazes a bit less, but perhaps a small reason is Glazes will fill.

I do highly recommend the consideration of a DA Machine. No chance of Hollograms, much gentler to paint, and you might then find the Rotary collecting cobwebs (like I have)

I grew tired of "wrastling" a Rotary for simple swirl removal, the DA is a definite "must have" in any hobbyist's, and pro's arsenal.

The Rotary of course has it's purpose-use, but IMO not needed unless you're working on junkyard basket cases, or for other uses, wish to set up a Rotary as a "Jeweling Machine", or with smaller Backing Plates and Pads to get in tight areas.

They now call it the "WG 4", but I'm assuming the 4th product they're referring to is the WG Sealant. The 3 WG products which are Uber Compound, Total Swirl Remover, and Finishing Glaze. They are all Abrasive Polishes, from most to least aggressive.

These 3 will handle any basic correction job, and to put it into simple words, and explanations, "They will blow your mind". Top shelf, whether you can buy in a bundle, check and see, but you'd make no mistake buying the largest quantities of any of them to have on hand. Minimum is pints IMO.

You'll love them all, without a doubt IMO. And in the remote 1-10,000 chance you don't, you've bought from the right place, AGO! If, for any reason they don't satisfy, AGO will stand behind that purchase 100%.

As for waxes-sealants, the WGDGPS 3.0 is also superb.

I've used all products I mention in this response. They are all killer.
You got your hands full with everything "Black". But these products will cut it.

Get the PC, or Griots, 5" LC Backing Plate, and a slew of the 5.5" LC Flat Pads. You'll have no regrets. Orange and White Pads should be enough for correction. Black and Blue Pads are only if you're a person who likes to machine apply waxes-sealants (or finesse to the nth degree with polises as those Pads have no cut) otherwise, forego them for other goodies needed.
 
MarkD51,

Thanks for input...

Tell me more about setting up Rotary as a "Jeweling Machine"

bw
 
MarkD51,

Thanks for input...

How do I set up Rotary as a "jeweling machine"?

bw
 
BradWallace said:
MarkD51,

Thanks for input...

How do I set up Rotary as a "jeweling machine"?

bw
Click to expand...

I've never myself set up such yet, my big red Milwaukee Rotary is like handling a Boat Anchor.

But Mike Phillips, our forum expert-guru I believe has some vids, and instructional tutorials about setting up any Rotary with mini Backing Plates, and Pads.

I'm talking ultra tiny stuff, 2" and 3" Backing Plates, with accompanying Pads.

Variable speed of the Rotary will of course give greater control, variability of cut-finesse, and handling of such Machines.

I seem to remember I think a Yellow Porsche, and Mike's going over some rear window Louvers, and such.

He seems to employ an Extension Piece, I think Optimum handles this part? LC Has the Backing Plates here whatever you desire.

Looks like a great way to modify this Tool for greater versatility. One day I'll do it myself, just haven't felt the need recently.
 
In reference to sealants, they are used to protect the paint(in place of or before wax). They last longer than a traditional wax. Some do not shine like a good paste wax but most people cannot tell for a DD. you can top a sealant with a wax but not the other way around. Sealants typically like a clean naked paint surface to adhere to. Most sealants will last UP TO 12 months.
 
Brad,

With respect, IMO you are learning to run before you can crawl... Get a DA :)
 
MarkD51 said:
Welcome Brad.
Holograms are easy to instill with a Rotary with Polishes. With Glazes a bit less, but perhaps a small reason is Glazes will fill.

I do highly recommend the consideration of a DA Machine. No chance of Hollograms, much gentler to paint, and you might then find the Rotary collecting cobwebs (like I have)

I grew tired of "wrastling" a Rotary for simple swirl removal, the DA is a definite "must have" in any hobbyist's, and pro's arsenal.

The Rotary of course has it's purpose-use, but IMO not needed unless you're working on junkyard basket cases, or for other uses, wish to set up a Rotary as a "Jeweling Machine", or with smaller Backing Plates and Pads to get in tight areas.

They now call it the "WG 4", but I'm assuming the 4th product they're referring to is the WG Sealant. The 3 WG products which are Uber Compound, Total Swirl Remover, and Finishing Glaze. They are all Abrasive Polishes, from most to least aggressive.

These 3 will handle any basic correction job, and to put it into simple words, and explanations, "They will blow your mind". Top shelf, whether you can buy in a bundle, check and see, but you'd make no mistake buying the largest quantities of any of them to have on hand. Minimum is pints IMO.

You'll love them all, without a doubt IMO. And in the remote 1-10,000 chance you don't, you've bought from the right place, AGO! If, for any reason they don't satisfy, AGO will stand behind that purchase 100%.

As for waxes-sealants, the WGDGPS 3.0 is also superb.

I've used all products I mention in this response. They are all killer.
You got your hands full with everything "Black". But these products will cut it.

Get the PC, or Griots, 5" LC Backing Plate, and a slew of the 5.5" LC Flat Pads. You'll have no regrets. Orange and White Pads should be enough for correction. Black and Blue Pads are only if you're a person who likes to machine apply waxes-sealants (or finesse to the nth degree with polises as those Pads have no cut) otherwise, forego them for other goodies needed.
Click to expand...

Will 8oz of each Wolfgang product (uber compound, finishing glaze, sealant 3.0) be enough product to complete my Silverado Crew cab?
 
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