Newb, Few Questions Here

Joe87T

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Hey guys so im new here and just had a few questions. I Love this site BTW, its probably the most informative place ive visited in a long long time.

Im not doing this professionally, this is just a hobby I do on my own personal ride in my spare time. But before visiting this site and in my naïve, uneducated state, I committed pretty much every cardinal sin you can imagine - I washed my car with 1 bucket by itself, rinsing off my mitt in the same bucket the soap was in - never used a grit guard (didn't even know they existed) - Used a buffer on my car without claybar'ing or or anything of the sort first, just terrible terrible things lol - I still to this day cant tell you what the difference is between a Compound and a Polish, or which one goes on first or does what

Car Details:

2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
Paint: Sunburst Orange

Heres a picture after I did my thing to it


1391778_10152023842045087_1339288670_n.jpg


Anyhow,

Thanks to this forum im going to be picking up a Grit Guard, a Claybar Kit and a Paint Sealer as I figure that will be a good place to start when winter ends and spring allows me the luxury of being outside regularly again.

Here is the method I was planning to do:

Wash
Dry
Claybar
Wash
Dry
Polish (remove Swirls)
Paint Sealer
Done

Does that sound good?

Also, I know you guys will probably laugh about this, but here is the polisher im using - I literally picked this up off Amazon.com for 19.95, it has 1 speed only On/Off - All I know is its a Random Orbital Polisher and it spins when I turn it on

Wat.jpg


Here is the pad that came with it, a blue foam pad -- As you can see I never washed / cleaned the pad last time I used it either (didn't know you were suppose too) so its dirty from the last use on the car

Wut.jpg


Should I even be using this thing or should I try by hand??, I don't know what RPM it spins at or anything of that nature..Also what do you do to remove swirls? I have Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Meguiars Ultimate Polish, don't know which one I should be using, and should you wash the car after you do this to get the haze off? Also this dirty blue pad, how should I clean it off? It already ripped on the side a little bit when I tried to take it off the machine, so its pretty cheesy / weak, so I have to clean it with it still on the buffer somehow or it will be destroyed... It also came with some white Microfiber Mitts as the alternative to the foam pad

Thanks Guys!
 
I don't know about that polisher. I'd get a Griots Garage 6" and a good assortment of pads. Also, you don't need to dry before you clay.
 
Hey guys so im new here and just had a few questions. I Love this site BTW, its probably the most informative place ive visited in a long long time.

Im not doing this professionally, this is just a hobby I do on my own personal ride in my spare time. But before visiting this site and in my naïve, uneducated state, I committed pretty much every cardinal sin you can imagine - I washed my car with 1 bucket by itself, rinsing off my mitt in the same bucket the soap was in - never used a grit guard (didn't even know they existed) - Used a buffer on my car without claybar'ing or or anything of the sort first, just terrible terrible things lol - I still to this day cant tell you what the difference is between a Compound and a Polish, or which one goes on first or does what

Car Details:

2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
Paint: Sunburst Orange

Heres a picture after I did my thing to it


1391778_10152023842045087_1339288670_n.jpg


Anyhow,

Thanks to this forum im going to be picking up a Grit Guard, a Claybar Kit and a Paint Sealer as I figure that will be a good place to start when winter ends and spring allows me the luxury of being outside regularly again.

Here is the method I was planning to do:

Wash
Dry
Claybar
Wash
Dry
Polish (remove Swirls)
Paint Sealer
Done

Does that sound good?

Also, I know you guys will probably laugh about this, but here is the polisher im using - I literally picked this up off Amazon.com for 19.95, it has 1 speed only On/Off - All I know is its a Random Orbital Polisher and it spins when I turn it on

Wat.jpg


Here is the pad that came with it, a blue foam pad -- As you can see I never washed / cleaned the pad last time I used it either (didn't know you were suppose too) so its dirty from the last use on the car

Wut.jpg


Should I even be using this thing or should I try by hand??, I don't know what RPM it spins at or anything of that nature..Also what do you do to remove swirls? I have Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Meguiars Ultimate Polish, don't know which one I should be using, and should you wash the car after you do this to get the haze off? Also this dirty blue pad, how should I clean it off? It already ripped on the side a little bit when I tried to take it off the machine, so its pretty cheesy / weak, so I have to clean it with it still on the buffer somehow or it will be destroyed... It also came with some white Microfiber Mitts as the alternative to the foam pad

Thanks Guys!

Sounds like you had some up, and downs in your detailing travels, you should have two buckets with two grits guards one for for soap, and the other for plain water you do not have to dry the car in order to clay bar it either when you go for compounding, and polish steps meguiars ultimate compound you use first then you will use meguiars ultimate polish maybe your machine may remove some defects
 
Welcome to AGO Joe!

Yeah I highly doubt you be able to polish with the BD, let alone with that blue pad. If its starting to tear already, its a done deal.

It's definitely worth investing in a GG 6" with an assortment of pads.

This link will help with some of the terminology:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nds-polishes-glazes-paint-cleaners-waxes.html

Sweet ride btw, didn't know they made a Caliber SRT...
 
Since you already have a polisher and it appears that you are willing to go that route instead of doing it by hand I would be incline to agree with the others and say get yourself a GG 6 inch polisher. I would also recommend a dual bucket setup with grit guards, personally I use three buckets one dedicated to just the wheels. Are there any imperfections in the paint that you are trying to remove? If so how bad are they? This would really be what determines what pads to use that combined with the hardness of the clear coat.
 
We all have been at your stage at some point. You're heading into the right direction though. This site is going to give you a ton of info. First off compounds and polish are essentially the same. Compounds are heavier while polish is finer. Think sand paper. Compound would be like a 800 grit polish would be like a 3000 grit. Not saying that that's how aggressive they are though lol. One bucket with a grit guard is fine in the beginning but 2 is better. That black and decker won't do much as far as polishing. It would be fine for wax though so I wouldn't throw it away. Your method is the proper way to do it. But there are other things to consider. If you plan on polishing your paint you will need something with more grunt. I have a porter cable that I love and works great. It's not the best but it's perfect for a beginner. Now you can have the best polishes pads and buffer but if your technique is flawed or inaccurate you will be beating a dead horse. For now I say you're fine but if you want to take it to the next level you will need a buffer. Hope my info helps and welcome to the forum

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
If you're looking for a budget polisher, Harbor Freight has an excellent DA polisher that runs around $50. Get a good packing pad (the factory one sucks) and some pads and you're good to go.
 
Thanks guys. So if I just wanted to do plain wax with the BD i have now. Do I use the blue pad that's on it currently or can I use the white wool pads that came with it? How do I clean off the blue pad?

Also out not curiosity, why two grit guards? Don't you put a grit guard in the rinse bucket and wipe your pad on it when you rinse it? Why put one in your wash bucket? You don't rub it in the wash bucket only when rinsing it off

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
I don't know about that polisher. I'd get a Griots Garage 6" and a good assortment of pads. Also, you don't need to dry before you clay.

No need to dry before clay. The quick detailer will not be affected by the water. I would wash again after claying and then dry.

Ed
 
Thanks guys. So if I just wanted to do plain wax with the BD i have now. Do I use the blue pad that's on it currently or can I use the white microfiber pads that came with it? How do I clean off the blue pad?

Also out not curiosity, why two grit guards? Don't you put a grit guard in the rinse bucket and wipe your pad on it when you rinse it? Why put one in your wash bucket? You don't rub it in the wash bucket only when rinsing it off

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

You use two grit to reduce the chance of dirt/contamination reaching the paint surface you are not required to have two grit guard but better safe than sorry, as for your cleaning your BD pad you may want to soak it in all purpose cleaner for a bit then you will want to add some dish soap to pad rub it in then rinse the pad till the water is clear
 
Thank you. When applying liquid wax should I use the foam pad or the fluffy wool pads instead?

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I think a lot of people have done some cardinal sins in their life when detailing their car so don't be too hard on yourself. With that, since you are just starting out I would look into a Harbor Freight (aka HF on the forums) for a inexpensive DA. HF always have 20% off coupon and the starting price is 65.00 but with the coupon/code it goes to 51.00. I started out with this polisher and will never knock it. Iit has been a year now and have no issues with it. I just upgraded, but it will have its place in my future details. HF have warranties, 1 year is 20 dollars, 2 is 35.00 (roughly) although members on here were able to get a 2 year warranty for 9.99, but I think HF changed that policy regarding the tool and its price. This polisher will do everything you ask for it while saving the money. Use the savings purchasing a 5 inch BP with 5.5 pads and have a little stock on least aggressive pads (white typically). A lot of people like the Lake Country pad (LC) brand. Flats run cheaper vs the CCS style pad and it all comes down to personal preference between the two.

So far you are on the track with finding AGO! Hope that helps!
 
Thank you. When applying liquid wax should I use the foam pad or the fluffy wool pads instead?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Foam. Wool on a DA can cause hazing let alone a lot of time. When I think of wool I think of a rotary buffer, which is a different ball game.
 
Thank you. When applying liquid wax should I use the foam pad or the fluffy wool pads instead?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


Use the foam one. To clean the pad this site has a foam pad cleaner. For now though you will be fine with dish soap and hot water to clean it. You want to clean it after each use. You can also get a microfiber bonnet from walmart to slip over it for the wax if you want.

Also when you notice this site burning a hole in your wallet check out a product called chemical guys black light. It will really make the metallic in your paint pop. That and wax with colinite 845. You will not be disappointed ;)

Definitely look into that harbor freight buffer if you are on a budget. I havent used it but i hear good things. Make sure its the dual action one and not the rotary one.
 
Eh turtle wax makes them ive used them in the past before i got my PC and never had a problem. To each their own though.
 
Just for the record, I have an older rotary from HF and it's a good piece.
 
I was reading an article that said the BD Orbital Polisher like I have right now wont even remove swirls in the first place, its not strong enough and the only thing its good for is being a "wax spreader" LOL

In any event, One of the Admins here has an E-Book I can buy for 14.95 that I Plan to pick up and start reading, that should help me become more knowledgeable with this stuff! :)
 
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