Newbie here, do I need iron remover before clay?

[Eldorado2k]

With all viable reasons mentioned, to use or not. Unless the car is in really bad shape. I've found just clay takes forever to get smooth. When you know you can move along to the rest of the car. Where as the Iron remover really makes the clay move over the car much quicker and with allot less passes. That's just been my experience. And I never have used Iron remover in all my years detailing till recently. Believe me I wish I didn't have to use it!

What kind of clay do you use?

 

[DanaDetailingPros]

What kind of clay do you use?

I always used MG. Adam's Med has been better for me. Lately though have really like my 3" Griot's surface pad with the PXE and allot of N914!
I almost forgot to mention also that I only will use light grey or white. I want to see what's coming off. And I would like to do a comparison in the future. I have still been trying to get my hands on a door or hood etc. I really don't want to do it on a customers car:doh:

 

[DanaDetailingPros]

What kind of clay do you use?

I know your a straight up clay guy and I was wondering if you checked this out?
Looks like clay pad on steroids.
Adam's Polishes Vicso Elastic Clay Bar | Decontamination Clay Bar

 

[Eldorado2k]

I know your a straight up clay guy and I was wondering if you checked this out?
Looks like clay pad on steroids.
Adam's Polishes Vicso Elastic Clay Bar | Decontamination Clay Bar

I’ve never seen that type of clay before. I actually do have a Medium Grade Nanoskin Claymitt and have had a few Speedy Prep Towels in the past. I just find the Megs Aggressive Clay to be a far cut above the rest, so I rarely reach for anything else unless it’s a well maintained vehicle/light contamination.

 

[DanaDetailingPros]

After pondering this thread, it had me wondering about different grades of clay. Also what manufactures seem to be favorites among the majority. So I started reading up on it. I came to the conclusion that 8 out of 10 X's a finer grade clay would of been better suited for my purpose. Dr. Beasley's page said it best. So then I started on what MFR's were most liked. Meguiar's was a fan favorite for sure. Also Mothers, Adam's and Griot's were right behind. The mitts are defiantly easier and do a great job! I just like to have a visual first with clay to see whether I can get away with the mitt or not. I still feel nothing beats good old fashion clay when quality factor is high. Such as correction and coating. Not to mention a killer sells tool.
To my surprise I found Mothers to be the best value at $25.50 for 3 100gram bars and a 16oz detailer bottle and micro (I'll give it to a friend) But what sold me quicker than that, was the little case that comes with it! ( Only on Amazon) I have been trying to find this exact case everywhere! They stop selling them and I loved them. I still have one that looks like its been through a war and I've cherished it knowing it was the last of the last! I would of paid $25 just for this silly clay box. Sounds crazy I know. But you know how it is. Certain things you've used forever and loved and then they just disappear and become instinct. Thanks Eldorado for lighting a fire on the subject!
Amazon.com

 

[Eldorado2k]

I've found just clay takes forever to get smooth.

Have you used this one before?

 

[Paul A.]

Valid points, 2black. And, i hate when i do this but sometimes I read the OP and then jump in with my perspective without reading every other response.

I'm going to duplicate Eldo's experiment myself. I need to see if I'm wasting money.

I had a detailer tell me a few years ago that brake dust comes off wheels hot enough to "sear" into clearcoat. He added "especially if you track the car". Maybe that's the exception but how can metal filaments bore into paint?

 

[DETAILROOKIE]

I recently clayed my truck before a paint correction. I actually used iron remover on the hood but not the roof, just to see the difference. The fine clay didn't touch the contaminants on my paint, with or without the iron remover. I had to step up to an aggressive clay towel and it removed the contaminants rather easily but left a ton of marring. I dunked the towel in very soapy water and foamed the car while I was claying just to help reduce the amount of marring.

If you are planning on claying, I would plan on doing a light polish to remove any marring and have your paint look its best. I've used fine clays and every aggressive clays and all of the ones I've used have left some type of marring. Fine clay marring may be very faint but it is still there.

I didnt notice a difference in using an iron remover or not, but it is up to you.

I hope this helps.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Paul A.]

I'm still wrestling with the thought of just claying without iron decon first. I'm thinking about picking up iron in my clay and having those metal bits marring my paint more than the other organic (and softer) bits.

No? Yes?

 

[Eldorado2k]

I'm still wrestling with the thought of just claying without iron decon first. I'm thinking about picking up iron in my clay and having those metal bits marring my paint more than the other organic (and softer) bits.

No? Yes?

Those so called iron bits are so microscopic that they’re not actually solid.
Just think for a second about a nice chrome wheel on a car that kicks up a ton of brake dust. Start with a perfectly clean wheel and in 2 weeks time it can be caked with brake dust and looks horrible, right?


But even with all that brake dust you can take your finger and wipe a spot clean, because for the most part it really is dust. It comes directly off the brake pads but it’s not solid or gravel, neither are the iron particles on the paint. If they were then iron decon would actually make paint smooth enough to pass a baggie test, but it Cant! Only the clay or synthetic clay can make paint smooth.

 

[Paul A.]

Good point, Eldo. Thanks.