Newbie Question

mcmac

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Hello folks,

I'm new here, as well as being new to the art of auto detailing, and have a pretty simple question... (hopefully).
We just purchased a new MB 350 and I would like to apply a sealant to the paint. I have already ordered the Wolfgang 3.0 sealant.
My question is this: being that the paint is new, should I attempt to clay it prior to sealing, or do you always need to polish after claying and then move on to the sealing process?

I also picked up a Flex 3401 but don't plan to use it on the MB right away. I plan to practice on our 13 yr old Sequoia, using the Wolfgang products (the Flex / Wolfgang kit) to remove any swirls, polish and seal. Looking forward to learning how to keep our cars paint looking new.

Just picked up Mikes eBook on detailing and have started reading it in preparation for using the buffer.

Thanks in advance for your input. :cheers:

Mike
 
that some expensive tools for a noob lol, and you are correct you dont have to polish after clay un less the clay marred the CC or if you just want a higher gloss, brighter paint.
but i would definitely clay it even though its new
 
As stated you will want to clay the car. You will also want to remove swirls, scratches and other marring your bound to find. Most dealerships will use glaze to hide their sins. As soon as the glaze wears off you'll see stuff you'll want to correct.

The 3401 is a nice polisher even okay for newer people using polishers. It's great you have an older car to practice on as that a great idea.

When it comes to sealing you want the finish to be as perfect as possible and that means polishing at a minimum. Good luck and post pictures. If you need help or advise just ask.
 
that some expensive tools for a noob lol, and you are correct you dont have to polish after clay un less the clay marred the CC or if you just want a higher gloss, brighter paint.
but i would definitely clay it even though its new

Ya, the Flex is definitely more expensive than other buffers but after some extensive research of opinions here on the forum I found that most recommended it over the others. I don't mind the extra expense if it is the right tool in the long run.
Thanks for the help.:xyxthumbs:
 
As stated you will want to clay the car. You will also want to remove swirls, scratches and other marring your bound to find. Most dealerships will use glaze to hide their sins. As soon as the glaze wears off you'll see stuff you'll want to correct.

The 3401 is a nice polisher even okay for newer people using polishers. It's great you have an older car to practice on as that a great idea.

When it comes to sealing you want the finish to be as perfect as possible and that means polishing at a minimum. Good luck and post pictures. If you need help or advise just ask.


Thanks for the input! I really appreciate it... it's kind of scary to think I will be working on the new car so soon. But the good news is I have a few other cars I can practice on prior to taking the plunge:buffing:

My kids will love me working on their cars to make them all nice and shiny! I just wont tell them that I'm actually practicing on them:xyxthumbs:

Thanks again.
 
Fellow MB Owner :dblthumb2:

McBenz's have something called a Ceramiclear Clear Coat. This Clear is much harder than normal clear coat and requires a little more punch to actually do correction. After you use up the WG products, use Menzerna products. They are made specifically for these hard clear coats and are easy to use. Fortunately, WG twins (what you have) are actually a Menzerna polishes inside so really you have what you need to get the job done!

Great choice on the Flex! It will take some getting used to with the forced rotation. Trick is to try and keep it flat and level to the paint. Also dont apply too much pressure. Usually the weight of the machine is enough to do the job.

When you have a new car, you really dont know its history. It could've sat on a lot for a few months before shipping, washed with bad media, "polished" by a hack detailer. Thats why with every new car, you start fresh, pull out all the stops, and do a full correction. Wash - Clay - Polish - Seal. Mine sat in the show room for 6 months before I got it. You wouldn't believe what I clayed off of it and how many swirls and scratches needed to be fixed.

The best time for car care is the day you pick it up!

Congrats BTW :xyxthumbs:
 
Fellow MB Owner :dblthumb2:

McBenz's have something called a Ceramiclear Clear Coat. This Clear is much harder than normal clear coat and requires a little more punch to actually do correction. After you use up the WG products, use Menzerna products. They are made specifically for these hard clear coats and are easy to use. Fortunately, WG twins (what you have) are actually a Menzerna polishes inside so really you have what you need to get the job done!

Great choice on the Flex! It will take some getting used to with the forced rotation. Trick is to try and keep it flat and level to the paint. Also dont apply too much pressure. Usually the weight of the machine is enough to do the job.

When you have a new car, you really dont know its history. It could've sat on a lot for a few months before shipping, washed with bad media, "polished" by a hack detailer. Thats why with every new car, you start fresh, pull out all the stops, and do a full correction. Wash - Clay - Polish - Seal. Mine sat in the show room for 6 months before I got it. You wouldn't believe what I clayed off of it and how many swirls and scratches needed to be fixed.

The best time for car care is the day you pick it up!

Congrats BTW :xyxthumbs:


Wow! Great Information.

I'm sure mine sat out somewhere for an extended period of time as the pano roof was just loaded with water spots. Well, it looks like I have some work to do huh. I'm excited to get started.

I also picked up the glass cleaner system by Pinnacle to continue working on the water spots that were not taken care of by the dealer. Do you know if I can use it on the drivers side rear view mirror? The reason I ask is it appears to have a film that reduces glare but the film does not cover the entire glass surface and on the edges of the glass (not covered) is full of water spots. I would love to remove those as well.

Our first higher end... we are loving it : )

Thanks again, great information.
 
Wow! Great Information.

I'm sure mine sat out somewhere for an extended period of time as the pano roof was just loaded with water spots. Well, it looks like I have some work to do huh. I'm excited to get started.

I also picked up the glass cleaner system by Pinnacle to continue working on the water spots that were not taken care of by the dealer. Do you know if I can use it on the drivers side rear view mirror? The reason I ask is it appears to have a film that reduces glare but the film does not cover the entire glass surface and on the edges of the glass (not covered) is full of water spots. I would love to remove those as well.

Our first higher end... we are loving it : )

Thanks again, great information.

You should be excited!

Well it depends on the types of water spots you have, some will be more stubborn than others. Check out this link

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...4-video-how-remove-water-spots-off-glass.html

For small tight areas, its aways best to do it by hand. If you dont have foam hand applicators, go with an MF towel.

Which class is it?? Congrats, you will love it I promise you!
 
As another new member here, I agree with your idea to practice on another vehicle before you take on the nice one. I did the same. Practiced on my beater truck (95 ranger), prior to taking on the nice truck (F250). You should find out quickly that these machines make you feel like an expert pretty quickly. I'm nowhere close to being an expert, but what I learned on the first vehicle sent my confidence through the roof, and that translated to a smooth evolution with the big truck. Good luck with your upcoming practice session(s). I know you will have fun and learn alot. Keep reading/posting in here, as there are many experts who go out of their way to help and guide us.
 
You should be excited!

Well it depends on the types of water spots you have, some will be more stubborn than others. Check out this link

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...4-video-how-remove-water-spots-off-glass.html

For small tight areas, its aways best to do it by hand. If you dont have foam hand applicators, go with an MF towel.

Which class is it?? Congrats, you will love it I promise you!

I did receive some foam applicators with the glass kit, so I will be using those. I am wondering if the foam pads and or the spot remover will damage the anti glare coating.

The class is E. New 350 4matic, as we live in the northwest where there is forever rain and at times snow and ice.

This is the first car that makes me want to go out and drive for absolutely no reason. I really like the accent lights in the cabin, heated seats and what I find to be a very pleasing sound system.
Wish I could have afforded one of these earlier in life:laughing:
 
As another new member here, I agree with your idea to practice on another vehicle before you take on the nice one. I did the same. Practiced on my beater truck (95 ranger), prior to taking on the nice truck (F250). You should find out quickly that these machines make you feel like an expert pretty quickly. I'm nowhere close to being an expert, but what I learned on the first vehicle sent my confidence through the roof, and that translated to a smooth evolution with the big truck. Good luck with your upcoming practice session(s). I know you will have fun and learn alot. Keep reading/posting in here, as there are many experts who go out of their way to help and guide us.

Hey Shawn,

Good to hear that the learning curve can be short... I have watched a lot of Mike's videos on here about using buffers... now to go to the hands on phase!

I assume you are now comfortable working on your nice truck and are turning down offers (maybe not) from friends and family to detail their cars too.

I certainly plan to remain a part of the community. The members here seem to get along well and are anxious to share their knowledge. Really looking forward to learning more about proper car care.
 
I did receive some foam applicators with the glass kit, so I will be using those. I am wondering if the foam pads and or the spot remover will damage the anti glare coating.

The class is E. New 350 4matic, as we live in the northwest where there is forever rain and at times snow and ice.

This is the first car that makes me want to go out and drive for absolutely no reason. I really like the accent lights in the cabin, heated seats and what I find to be a very pleasing sound system.
Wish I could have afforded one of these earlier in life:laughing:

Hmm that is a good question. It is a hard guess because I haven't really seen the exact coating you have, nor have I tried. My gut is saying it shouldn't. But gain some experience on the other glass and gauge from that.

Those are stunning cars! Beautiful to drive and ride in! I actually detailed a white one a couple weeks ago, came out great

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/59589-i-am-autos-2012-e350-4matic-detail.html

I know that feeling! Get that all the time in mine. 2-3 hours go by and youre still going.
 
Hmm that is a good question. It is a hard guess because I haven't really seen the exact coating you have, nor have I tried. My gut is saying it shouldn't. But gain some experience on the other glass and gauge from that.

Those are stunning cars! Beautiful to drive and ride in! I actually detailed a white one a couple weeks ago, came out great

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/59589-i-am-autos-2012-e350-4matic-detail.html

I know that feeling! Get that all the time in mine. 2-3 hours go by and youre still going.

Wow... what a great finished product! I sure hope mine is never that dirty, but I guess you would need to know the circumstances. Might have just come over a mountain pass during the winter... I know our roads can add dirt to a car in a hurry.

Really appreciate the information you are sharing here... I am running into a lot of good information from you on other threads as well.

Thanks again
 
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