Newbie Setup what am I missing or need to replace?

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Withoutink

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Hi All,

Newbie here from NE Mountains of GA. I never really thoroughly detailed a car before. I've 'washed & waxed", but that is about it... I am looking to start improving my game for a few reasons..

#1

I am looking at selling my Jeep Wrangler & Harley. I am a firm believer in that making everything shine always helps sell things. The Jeep is a 2003 and hasn't been waxed in probably 2 years. The Harley was waxed last year, but has been sitting in my garage and could use some love. I understand the Jeep will need to be washed thoroughly, clay bared, polished, sealed and waxed. The Harley will probably require the same level of treatment.

#2

After I sell my current vehicles, I will be purchasing a 2016 VW GTI Autobahn, and I want to keep her nice and clean. A pretty car deserves a great shine. The last time I really took care of a car on a monthly basis, was with the last GTI I owned, about 13 years ago.... I will ask the dealer NOT to detail my car, as I am sure they won't take great pride in the detail, nor will whoever they may farm the work out to.... I'm not sure what we will need to do with the car, I suspect the paint/clearcoat will need time to cure, then a nice wash, clay bar, polish, seal and wax... Wish I had $$$ for some kind of coating I have read about, but I do not think it's in the budget.

#3

My wife always goes through the (brushless) car washes with her Honda, and it drives me crazy. I think it's a waste of money, plus I know it's not great for the finish. This will essentially need the same treatment as the Jeep. I don't think we ever waxed the CRV, just whatever crap they spray on it at the brushless place.

My Mission:

To find a set of solid products, that will achieve nice repeatable & sustainable results, as economically as I can. Without being penny wise and pound foolish.

Ok... so what I currently own....

- Griots Yellow Clay Bar (never used)
- Griots Best of Show Wax (never used)
- Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion
- Pinnacle Liquid Souveran wax
- S100 Paste Wax (originally for Harley but did a good job on the Jeep)
- Pig Snot Spray Detailer (for Harley)
- Rainex
- 2x 5 gallon buckets from Lowes
- Small wheel rim brush

Things I THINK I need:

- Two grit trays for the buckets
- Soap to wash car - open to suggestions
- Chamois or something to dry car
- A couple of good spray bottles, was thinking those nice ones from Home depot?
- Orbital Buffer (was thinking 6' Griots w/ 10' plug)
- Maybe - a 5" conversion kit for Griots buffer
- Polishing pads for buffer
- Polish for buffer
- Was thinking a better option to Clay bar may be something like nanoskin pads/kit? Not sure if it is worth it though....
- Was thinking Klasse High Gloss Sealant (or other)
- Wax Pads for buffer
- Either use one of the three waxes I have, or buy something new/better
- Small wax pad/mitt for hard to reach areas
- Microfiber rags for interior
- Microfiber rags for exterior
- Wash mit of some sort
- Wheel Woolie or similar
- Sonax Full Effect tire cleaner
- 303 Aerospace protectant (for tires, jeep top, dash etc)
- Some sort of fabric cleaner, the jeeps seats need some love
- Some sort of leather cleaner and conditioner. For CRV and GTI. Something that won't degrade the stitching.
- Something to clean the glass
- Something to protect the glass, is Rainex worthy?

Anything else I am missing?

Lastly, where would be the best place to get most of the stuff =)

NOTE: I am open to your suggestions, additions, replacements, removals of any of the items above with something that might make better sense.

Thanks in advance!
 
I own a 2001 vw Passat GLX 4motion I detail it weekly..if you want to start out right first you need to see what budget your looking at next set some goals for your new car..next look at autogeeks full line of products that suit your needs..here are a few tips to suggest
1.use two bucket method one with soap the other with water
2.wash in straight lines rinsing your mitt often
3.work from top to bottom
4.always clean rims & tires first
5.rinse car good use flooding to reduce water spots
6.dry vehicle with a waffle weave drying towel
7.other options a car drying blower

As for shine & protection here are a few extra ways to get a acceptable shine..use a glaze then a sealant then top it with wax..CG has some great products to look into if you want to start out slow and work your way up..hope this helps don't be afraid to ask questions
 
Here are a few items to consider thought I add them here..

1.good car shampoo
2.wheel and tire cleaner *acid free*
3.good drying towels microfiber is popular
4.clay bars
5.vehicle blow dryer not a leaf blower
6.glazes,sealants,waxes
7.wheel wax or wheel glaze
8.tire dressing water-based
9.leather cleaner and conditioner all in one
10.interior detailer or protectant
11.Daytona speed master wheel brush full or mini
Last apllicators and microfiber towels

Look at autogeeks site or try Car Wash, Wax, Polishes, Microfiber Towels and Best Auto Detail Supplies - Chemical Guys Professional Car Care Products - Wholesale and Retail
 
Congrats on the upcoming ride!

1) I dont use chamois, you can soak a mircofiber, then ring it out and dry that way. If you apply some quick detailer in front of where you are wiping it will be the safest.

2) Buy a clay kit instead of the bar. Meguiars sells a decent kit.

3) I have been known to use a paint brush on wheels and a old wash mitt for washing.

4) Personally I prefer waxing by hand. But you should invest in 6 or so white polishing pads.

5) Polish I recommend either Klasse AIO or Megs UP.

6) Lexol for leather.

7) Stoner Invisible Glass works well.

8) Rain X has never held up very long for me. AquaPel works well as do some waxes and sealants on glass.

9) I would go with UTTG for trim and tires. 303 is good for engines and plastic dashes IMO.

10) Collinite 845 is a good wax, with excellent shine.


Hope I helped :)
 
Withoutink said:
Hi All,

Newbie here from NE Mountains of GA. I never really thoroughly detailed a car before. I've 'washed & waxed", but that is about it... I am looking to start improving my game for a few reasons..

#1

I am looking at selling my Jeep Wrangler & Harley. I am a firm believer in that making everything shine always helps sell things. The Jeep is a 2003 and hasn't been waxed in probably 2 years. The Harley was waxed last year, but has been sitting in my garage and could use some love. I understand the Jeep will need to be washed thoroughly, clay bared, polished, sealed and waxed. The Harley will probably require the same level of treatment.

IMO for the Jeep, just wash, clay polish, and use a sealant. Anyone looking at the jeep wouldn't notice a difference if it had swirls or not. Scratches are a different story. I would pour hour upon hours into it for little to not return. Make it presentable for those wanting to possibly buy it.

#2

After I sell my current vehicles, I will be purchasing a 2016 VW GTI Autobahn, and I want to keep her nice and clean. A pretty car deserves a great shine. The last time I really took care of a car on a monthly basis, was with the last GTI I owned, about 13 years ago.... I will ask the dealer NOT to detail my car, as I am sure they won't take great pride in the detail, nor will whoever they may farm the work out to.... I'm not sure what we will need to do with the car, I suspect the paint/clearcoat will need time to cure, then a nice wash, clay bar, polish, seal and wax... Wish I had $$$ for some kind of coating I have read about, but I do not think it's in the budget.


Its always best to wash, clay, polish, and either use a sealant or coating for protection of a new car. Even new cars can have contamination and can come with factory induced swirls and or holograms. The paint will be ready to go with you take delivery of the vehicle.

I tell all my customer to make sure the dealership leaves everything on the car even the transportation film.

You can get and of the Blackfire or Pinnacle Black Label coatings for as much as a good sealant. They are very user friendly.

#3

My wife always goes through the (brushless) car washes with her Honda, and it drives me crazy. I think it's a waste of money, plus I know it's not great for the finish. This will essentially need the same treatment as the Jeep. I don't think we ever waxed the CRV, just whatever crap they spray on it at the brushless place.

Brushless washes you a very high Alkaline based soaps to "clean" the surface of the vehicle. Its always best to use a pH balanced soap instead.


My Mission:

To find a set of solid products, that will achieve nice repeatable & sustainable results, as economically as I can. Without being penny wise and pound foolish.

Ok... so what I currently own....

- Griots Yellow Clay Bar (never used)
- Griots Best of Show Wax (never used)
- Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion
- Pinnacle Liquid Souveran wax
- S100 Paste Wax (originally for Harley but did a good job on the Jeep)
- Pig Snot Spray Detailer (for Harley)
- Rainex
- 2x 5 gallon buckets from Lowes
- Small wheel rim brush

Things I THINK I need:

- Two grit trays for the buckets
- Soap to wash car - open to suggestions I tend to use some of the Chemical Guys soap due to price.
- Chamois or something to dry car MicroFiber (MF) waffle weave drying towels are the best other than a MasterBlaster
- A couple of good spray bottles, was thinking those nice ones from Home depot?
- Orbital Buffer (was thinking 6' Griots w/ 10' plug) The GG6" is a great choice
- Maybe - a 5" conversion kit for Griots buffer Pick up a 5" with 5.5" pads
- Polishing pads for buffer Any Lake Country or Buff and Shine pads are a great choice. Pick up at least 2 cutting, 2-4 polishing, and 2-3 finishing
- Polish for buffer Meguiars Ultimate Polish or M205 is very user friendly, Menzerna 2500 is a good polish as well.
- Was thinking a better option to Clay bar may be something like nanoskin pads/kit? Not sure if it is worth it though.... The clay alternatives are a great way to go they make decontamination fast, effective, and simple
- Was thinking Klasse High Gloss Sealant (or other) I made reference to coating above
- Wax Pads for buffer
- Either use one of the three waxes I have, or buy something new/better
- Small wax pad/mitt for hard to reach areas What cant be done by machine is done by hand
- Microfiber rags for interior Cheap all purpose towels are great for interior work
- Microfiber rags for exterior any of the Cobra MF towels I like the 530s
- Wash mit of some sort I like the MF chenille mitts
- Wheel Woolie or similar those and or the Daytona Speed Brush
- Sonax Full Effect tire cleaner Sonax Full Effect is a wheel cleaner with an Iron dissolver. Great cleaner though and the wheel cleaner plus is even better IMO
- 303 Aerospace protectant (for tires, jeep top, dash etc)
- Some sort of fabric cleaner, the jeeps seats need some love
- Some sort of leather cleaner and conditioner. For CRV and GTI. Something that won't degrade the stitching.
- Something to clean the glass I like the Sonax Glass cleaner
- Something to protect the glass, is Rainex worthy?

Anything else I am missing?

Lastly, where would be the best place to get most of the stuff =)

NOTE: I am open to your suggestions, additions, replacements, removals of any of the items above with something that might make better sense.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

All the stuff is in Blue :props:
 
As an owner of a black '14 GTI I'll warn you in advance that the paint is hard. Be very careful with it and you will be fine, but correction will not be as easy as other vehicles.

I wouldn't bother with the 303 on the tires. I love it on my interior, but I've never had it last more than a few days or first contact with rain. For a new car, I'd hit the rubber and plastic trim with a trim sealant like Blackfire or Wolfgang sell here. I really like the Blackfire, but haven't tried the WG product.

I don't know about your CRV, but you won't need anything special for the leather in the GTI. It's a coated leather. I clean my with either warm water and/or a very mild APC solution and then protect it with 303.

What type of wheel brushes do you have? I use a small round one with stiff bristles for the barrels of the wheels and a soft broad one for the wheel facings.
 
Tire- turf shine tire coating
Wheels- coating
Paint- coating or sonax PNS
QDs- Meguiars D114/D115 and D156
Interior- Meg QID and DP high density apc.
 
DiamondShine900 said:
I own a 2001 vw Passat GLX 4motion I detail it weekly..if you want to start out right first you need to see what budget your looking at next set some goals for your new car..next look at autogeeks full line of products that suit your needs..here are a few tips to suggest
1.use two bucket method one with soap the other with water
2.wash in straight lines rinsing your mitt often
3.work from top to bottom
4.always clean rims & tires first
5.rinse car good use flooding to reduce water spots
6.dry vehicle with a waffle weave drying towel
7.other options a car drying blower

As for shine & protection here are a few extra ways to get a acceptable shine..use a glaze then a sealant then top it with wax..CG has some great products to look into if you want to start out slow and work your way up..hope this helps don't be afraid to ask questions
Click to expand...

Thanks for this info! Very helpful, never thought of the flooding rinse; makes total sense!
 
Your very welcomed if you have any other questions don't be afraid to ask I'll do my best to answer them.
 
North26 said:
Congrats on the upcoming ride!

1) I dont use chamois, you can soak a mircofiber, then ring it out and dry that way. If you apply some quick detailer in front of where you are wiping it will be the safest.

Thank you, I used to use a chamois, but it was such a pain in the ass to keep clean, MY towels seem like such a better idea over the long run.

2) Buy a clay kit instead of the bar. Meguiars sells a decent kit.

Already bought the clay bar awhile back from Griots, so i will just need to buy some lube I guess. I will probably end up with the Griots 6" DA so clay will be for areas I can't reach with the DA.

3) I have been known to use a paint brush on wheels and a old wash mitt for washing.

4) Personally I prefer waxing by hand. But you should invest in 6 or so white polishing pads.

5) Polish I recommend either Klasse AIO or Megs UP.

Thanks would you do Klasse AIO/SG combo? I was just reading that this proves to be a great combo, and there is a simple way to apply the SG

"Transfer 1-2 ounces into a small travel size spray bottle. Spritz once or twice for each panel, buff in, and immediately flip towel and buff off. If you get a stubborn spot, respritz and wipe until gone. Once done allow 8-24 hours for sealant to completely cure to paint."

6) Lexol for leather.

7) Stoner Invisible Glass works well.

Thanks!

8) Rain X has never held up very long for me. AquaPel works well as do some waxes and sealants on glass.

9) I would go with UTTG for trim and tires. 303 is good for engines and plastic dashes IMO.

10) Collinite 845 is a good wax, with excellent shine.


Hope I helped :)
Click to expand...

See replies in blue
 
Just ordered some MF Towels

1x 16x16 Green MF Glass Towel
3x 16x16 Eagle Edgeless Blue Korean Detail Towels
2x 20x40 Dry Me A River Jr. MF Waffle Weave Korean Dry towels

More to come.
 
Withoutink said:
Lots of words...
Click to expand...

A few tidbits:
I'm not sure how much correction is needed by either of the vehicles you will be selling, but depending on the work involved, have you considered an "All-in-one"? A good AIO will help hide minor imperfections, and unless you are looking to practice, the increased value you would get (if any) for doing a full correction may not be worth your time.

You should definitely get a set of grit guards and IMO, a minimum of two quality mitts. Keep in mind you may need to purchase 2 new buckets, because unfortunately, the grit guards don't fit all buckets properly.

I'm of the same camp with North26...opt for a good drying towel or two and ditch the chamois. My experience is as you mentioned; they are a pain to keep clean.

Clay before firing up the Griots.

Collinite 845, as mentioned, is a very good, and inexpensive wax, however, since you already have a bottle of Griots and Pinnacle waxes, I would just use them.

Take your time, have fun, and enjoy your new ride when she arrives.
 
RavenHawk said:
A few tidbits:
I'm not sure how much correction is needed by either of the vehicles you will be selling, but depending on the work involved, have you considered an "All-in-one"? A good AIO will help hide minor imperfections, and unless you are looking to practice, the increased value you would get (if any) for doing a full correction may not be worth your time.

I agree, the harley will be much easier, since it is so much smaller. But for the Jeep, I do wan't to clay, polish and seal at minimum. I may not get rid of the Jeep until mid summer so I have some time... Plus it would be nice to practice on a car I am not keeping.

You should definitely get a set of grit guards and IMO, a minimum of two quality mitts. Keep in mind you may need to purchase 2 new buckets, because unfortunately, the grit guards don't fit all buckets properly.

Thanks for letting me know! I checked grit guards site, and looks like my lowes buckets work with a slight modification to the guards, but HD buckets work perfectly. I will pick new ones up, next time I am at HD. I would have probably gone a little crazy with this, so thanks again.

I'm of the same camp with North26...opt for a good drying towel or two and ditch the chamois. My experience is as you mentioned; they are a pain to keep clean.

Yeah, I bought 2 20x40 waffle weave drying towels, a glass towel and three 16x16 thick korean towels last night. no more chamois!


Clay before firing up the Griots.

Thank you.

Collinite 845, as mentioned, is a very good, and inexpensive wax, however, since you already have a bottle of Griots and Pinnacle waxes, I would just use them.

I added the Collinite 845 to the wish-list, this shopping cart is already $$$. So I will use what I have for a bit, if I really want to try 845 out, I can always grab some later.


Take your time, have fun, and enjoy your new ride when she arrives.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the help.
 
Ok guys....

So I bought the Griots 6"

I have the following in my cart, but am stuck on what pads to get....

2x grit gaurds
16.9oz sonax full effect
meguiars 16oz sell cleaning bottle
16.9oz sonus acrylic spritz
10oz klasse aio
16.9oz klasse hgsg
32oz optimum no rinse wash & shine
8oz M205 ultra finishing polish
lake county 5" backing plate for the griots

which pads to get for the 5" backplate (Style / material / colors)??

Lake Country Flat Pads
Lake Country Hydo-Tech Foam Pads, hydrotech polishing pads, pads for water-based polishes, buffing pads
CCS foam buffing pads,foam polishing pads,lake country foam pads,foam polisher pads,buffer pads,lake county pads,porter cable pads,pads for air sander
 
Ok, I took a swing... I read a few people recommend that the 5.5" Lake Country Flats work great with the Lake Country Flexible backing plate...

So I grabbed:

2x Orange Flats
2x White Flats
2x Black Flats

Also got a couple CSS Red Wax pads from Lake Country as well as a bottle of Optimum Leather protectant
 
Personally I like the flat pads.

Klasse is solid stuff.. But have you looked at the BlackFire, Menzerna or Wolfgang products as an alternative? I havent used Klasse SG in years, but some of the newer products are easier to remove and provide as good or better protection.

My VW Touareg leather is treated with Ultima Interior Trim Guard. Nice soft feel to the leather.
 
If you haven't pulled the trigger yet on what is in your cart, go with the 25' cord on the GG polisher, you can thank me later!! I have the GG6" and 3" both with the 25' cords and am so glad I went with the long cords.

Walter
 
Ebg18t said:
Personally I like the flat pads.



Klasse is solid stuff.. But have you looked at the BlackFire, Menzerna or Wolfgang products as an alternative? I havent used Klasse SG in years, but some of the newer products are easier to remove and provide as good or better protection.



My VW Touareg leather is treated with Ultima Interior Trim Guard. Nice soft feel to the leather.
Click to expand...


I'm a total newbie. So sadly I haven't seen much. Is was sort of intrigued by klasse for some reason. Maybe next time around, but something tells me I'm set for awhile.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
whavens said:
If you haven't pulled the trigger yet on what is in your cart, go with the 25' cord on the GG polisher, you can thank me later!! I have the GG6" and 3" both with the 25' cords and am so glad I went with the long cords.

Walter
Click to expand...


I already pulled the trigger, I considered it. But I have a few easy to access outlets near the car when it is in the garage. Plus I have a heavy duty / gauge extension cord that can be used off needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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