Newbie that's not so new

[LSwon]

Hey AutoGeek forums,
My name is Mike and I drive an 01 vette, torch red.# Over the years it's acquired its fair share of swirl marks and surface scratches, and I just bought a PC, 105/205, sealant, mf towels, and pads to get started...should be here tomorrow.

I am not a newbie to the whole detailing scene, I was on another forum but the community wasn't the greatest and they just tried to pawn their [overpriced] products on everybody, which kind of got old.

Anyways, since I bought my stuff from AG, I figured, why not become a member....so here I am.# Ive been doing more than my fair share of reading on detailing so I am about ready to begin I think.

I just have a few questions though...
1) alot of people clean pads "on the fly" with a terry towel. Is this a safe, reliable way to clean the pads?# How long do you do this for?# I've heard anywhere from 15-45 sec all the way up to a couple mins.

2) I ordered the Meguiers PC kit with 5.5" pads. Also got some kind of trial sized sealant to see if its worth it.# What pads do you guys recommend using for 105/205, the sealant, and wax just out of curiosity.# Always good to get another opinion before actually going at it. I have ccs orange, ccs black (although the kit said it came with grey?), and red "soft buff pads" I got as a bonus.

Im sure I will develop more questions along the way but for now, that is all.# Thank you AG forums.

-Mike

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Porsche Pilot]

Welcome to AGO Mike!

 

[FUNX650]

Hi Mike...and :welcome: to AGO!



Bob

 

[tuscarora dave]

My name is Mike and I drive an 01 vette

Welcome to the site.

I just have a few questions though...
1) alot of people clean pads "on the fly" with a terry towel. Is this a safe, reliable way to clean the pads?# How long do you do this for?# I've heard anywhere from 15-45 sec all the way up to a couple mins.

The important thing is to remove the build up of spent product/abraded off paint from the pad before moving on to the next section to be compounded. When using M-105 this buildup is usually a dried up hard and kind of crusty residue that lightly brushes off better than toweling off. If you allow this buildup to remain on the pad when you start compounding your next section, you will experience a drastic reduction in cut and marring will likely occur as well. I personally like to use a denture brush for this as it's quite effective at removing this dried up slurry while at the same time it isn't hard on the foam like some shorter bristled brushes can be. I save the towel pad cleaning method for when rotary polishing.

Often times while compounding with a DA (especially on a vette) the pad and backing plate is going to generate a good amount of heat. I've seen this heat get so intense that it can melt the velcro right off of the backing plate. This heat mainly remains in the pad and backing plate and not so much on the panel being polished. If in this heated state, you turn your DA pad side up, turn it on and begin rubbing a towel against it you'll likely experience a delamination of the velcro from the back of the pad. This is why I use the brush, also the towel method in my experience tends to force the dried up crust "into" the pad rather than "removing it" completely from the pad as the brush does. I turn the DA pad side up and "without" turning on the power I simply brush the dried up slurry off of the pad and then sit the machine down so the pad/backing plate can cool while I wipe the residue off of the panel and inspect my work. This cool down method drastically prolongs the life of my pads. I've developed a good working habit of brushing my pad clean of crusty debris every time I intend to sit the polisher down, before I sit it down.

2) I ordered the Meguiers PC kit with 5.5" pads. Also got some kind of trial sized sealant to see if its worth it.# What pads do you guys recommend using for 105/205, the sealant, and wax just out of curiosity.# Always good to get another opinion before actually going at it. I have ccs orange, ccs black (although the kit said it came with grey?), and red "soft buff pads" I got as a bonus.

I would recommend having at least 6 orange pads for the compounding with M-105, 3 white polishing pads for the M-205 polishing step and use the the gray or red for your sealant/wax applications. You may ask "Why so many pads?" Well you'll most likely use too much product at first as many do and the first few pads will likely become over saturated with product and need to be washed with soap and water or they'll simply delaminate from the velcro backing then you'll be stuck in the middle of the job with not enough pads to finish the work. If you have to wash the pads with water, they'll need to be completely dry before continuing to use them. If your pads are damp with water when DA polishing (especially on something with super hard clear like a C-5 Vette) the heat buildup in the pad will create steam and the steam will quickly degrade the adhesive that holds the velcro backing onto the pad and again, you'll be stuck in the middle of the job with not enough pads to finish your work.

Im sure I will develop more questions along the way but for now, that is all.# Thank you AG forums.

-Mike

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

That's what we're here for, to learn and to share the knowledge.

 

[flhden]

Hey AutoGeek forums,
My name is Mike and I drive an 01 vette, torch red.# Over the years it's acquired its fair share of swirl marks and surface scratches, and I just bought a PC, 105/205, sealant, mf towels, and pads to get started...should be here tomorrow.

I am not a newbie to the whole detailing scene, I was on another forum but the community wasn't the greatest and they just tried to pawn their [overpriced] products on everybody, which kind of got old.

Anyways, since I bought my stuff from AG, I figured, why not become a member....so here I am.# Ive been doing more than my fair share of reading on detailing so I am about ready to begin I think.

I just have a few questions though...
1) alot of people clean pads "on the fly" with a terry towel. Is this a safe, reliable way to clean the pads?# How long do you do this for?# I've heard anywhere from 15-45 sec all the way up to a couple mins.

2) I ordered the Meguiers PC kit with 5.5" pads. Also got some kind of trial sized sealant to see if its worth it.# What pads do you guys recommend using for 105/205, the sealant, and wax just out of curiosity.# Always good to get another opinion before actually going at it. I have ccs orange, ccs black (although the kit said it came with grey?), and red "soft buff pads" I got as a bonus.

Im sure I will develop more questions along the way but for now, that is all.# Thank you AG forums.

-Mike

Hi Mike: Iam new here also so please defer to the experts, but I will tell you my experience. I also have an 04 Torch Red vet that was shiny but was loaded with swirls which were quite evident in the sun. I tried every hand applied product on the market to no avail. After finding this site through the corvette forum I decided to give machine polishing a try. I already owned an older but nearly new Porter Cable 7336. Through AG I ordered a 5 in LC hook and loop backing pad and 6 LC css pads from orange to white to gray and red. Being afraid of being too aggressive I started with meguiars 205 with an orange 5 1/2 in pad. Primed the pad with a spritz of meguiars detailer and a couple lines of the 205 and basically worked my way around the whole car in 2 ft sections as explained in the polishing videos located here. 1 pad did the whole car with just one quick towel cleaning. I wish I had taken before and after photos as it came out unbelievable. Followed this up the next day with a grey pad application of meguiars nxt 2.0 wax. The car is like new. Washed both pads in warm water with palmolive dish washing detergent several times and rinsed them several times, spread them out upright on a radiator to dry and they look just like new. The only mistake I made several times with the polish was lifting the pad off the car for a second to increase the speed and it throws spots of polish everywhere. After several events like this I finally learned not to do it again. It was time consuming but very easy, and extremely satisfying.
Let us know how you make out.
Dennis

 

[dad07]

:welcome:to AGO MIke!

 

[tw33k2514]

Welcome to AGO!

Personally I clean on the fly with air after every panel.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Hey AutoGeek forums,
My name is Mike and I drive an 01 vette, torch red.# Over the years it's acquired its fair share of swirl marks and surface scratches, and I just bought a PC, 105/205, sealant, mf towels, and pads to get started...should be here tomorrow.

I am not a newbie to the whole detailing scene, I was on another forum but the community wasn't the greatest and they just tried to pawn their [overpriced] products on everybody, which kind of got old.

Anyways, since I bought my stuff from AG, I figured, why not become a member....so here I am.# Ive been doing more than my fair share of reading on detailing so I am about ready to begin I think.

Hi Mike...

Mike Phillips here just saying hi and welcome...

I just have a few questions though...

1) alot of people clean pads "on the fly" with a terry towel. Is this a safe, reliable way to clean the pads?# How long do you do this for?# I've heard anywhere from 15-45 sec all the way up to a couple mins.

Cleaning your pad on the fly is a great technique for quickly getting excess spent product, removed paint and liquids off and out of the pad. 100% Terrycloth Hand Towels work best and are a good size for this procedure.

The entire idea is a way to do this quickly so you can get back to work as buffing out an entire car in one day using a multiple step approach is already time-consuming enough...

Here's my article on the technique...

How to clean your foam pad on the fly


I never timed myself but keep in mind it's a quick process so you can get back to work. Also check out this article,

Why it's important to clean your pads often...

I've been using this technique and teaching it since wood sanders like the PC were introduced to the paint polishing world in the early 1990's.



Both of the above articles are in my article list and also in my how-to book...

Articles by Mike Phillips

E-book
(Displayed on iPad - iPad not included)

Paperback



Mike Phillips' Principles of Machine Polishing

2) I ordered the Meguiers PC kit with 5.5" pads. Also got some kind of trial sized sealant to see if its worth it.# What pads do you guys recommend using for 105/205, the sealant, and wax just out of curiosity.# Always good to get another opinion before actually going at it. I have ccs orange, ccs black (although the kit said it came with grey?), and red "soft buff pads" I got as a bonus.

Im sure I will develop more questions along the way but for now, that is all.# Thank you AG forums.

-Mike

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

More pads are always better as they will be come damp with product as you work around the car.

Damp or wet foam doesn't rotate as well as dry foam and removing swirls and scratches is done best when the paint is rotating/oscillating against the paint.

See this thread... it's a success story from a guy working on a similar Corvette...


WG TSR/FG & PC 7335 Technique

Excerpt...

When I went to buff out a 1954 Corvette for Corvette Mike I took lots of extra polishing pads because at that time the only DA style polishers available were the first generation polishers and I knew as my pads became wet with product they would stop rotating and the job would take longer. This car had an antique lacquer paint job on it so I didn't want to use rotary buffer but instead play it safe and use the PC.


I count 7 yellow polishing pads in the below picture, as one pad would quit rotating effectively I would swap it out to a clean, dry pad.

 

[LSwon]

Thank you for the replies everyone, this is definitley a good forum to be a part of!!

I just have a quick.question, when I got the backing plate there was a plastic cap covering the screw and a plastic washer on it too. Am I supposed to.keep the washer on there? Stupid question I know, but I don't want to screw something up.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Edit: After some thought I am debating whether or not to just go with 205 and an orange pad instead of 105 because I.have a feeling it is too harsh and I wont need it. The paint is in no means neglected, I just have to get rid of some light scratches and swirl marks.

 

[BobbyG]

:welcome: To Autogeek Online Mike! rops:

You'll find Autogeek to be a very place to hang out. The members here are the best, always ready to offer a recommendation or some insight to help with just about any detailing issue....

 

[flhden]

Thank you for the replies everyone, this is definitley a good forum to be a part of!!

I just have a quick.question, when I got the backing plate there was a plastic cap covering the screw and a plastic washer on it too. Am I supposed to.keep the washer on there? Stupid question I know, but I don't want to screw something up.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Edit: After some thought I am debating whether or not to just go with 205 and an orange pad instead of 105 because I.have a feeling it is too harsh and I wont need it. The paint is in no means neglected, I just have to get rid of some light scratches and swirl marks.

I kept the washer on my pad as I think its job is to keep the pad away from the counterweight. It worked fine for me. As far as using the 205 I remember hearing on many of the videos to always start off with the least aggressive pad or product that does the job. I started my vet with the 205 and the orange lc pad, did a 2ft section wiped it down with a good microfiber cloth and checked it out with a very strong cordless light. Perfect combination for my car anyway. The car never looked better and I am a fanatic.
Dennis

 

[LSwon]

I kept the washer on my pad as I think its job is to keep the pad away from the counterweight. It worked fine for me. As far as using the 205 I remember hearing on many of the videos to always start off with the least aggressive pad or product that does the job. I started my vet with the 205 and the orange lc pad, did a 2ft section wiped it down with a good microfiber cloth and checked it out with a very strong cordless light. Perfect combination for my car anyway. The car never looked better and I am a fanatic.
Dennis

Sounds exactly like what I was planning on doing. You can see some light scratches and swirls and quite frankly I think that 105 will be a little overkill - therefore I plan on doing the whole car with 205 and a few orange pads followed by a wipedown, then moving onto paint sealant with either black or red "soft buff pads" (not sure which one yet, probably black) again followed by another wipedown, and finish up with NXT 2.0 wax (which I have grown to love haha) with a black pad or red "soft buff" followed by a wipedown. After that I will stand in satisfaction and awe :buffing:

If I really need to, I will just go back and touch up spots with the 105 before I apply the sealant - but I honestly dont think that will be needed.

I have the car sitting in the garage, freshly washed, vacuumed, glass cleaned, and clayed - just awaiting this 3 or possibly 4 steps and then we will be golden :dblthumb2: Looking to potentially do this tomorrow night.

 

[flhden]

Sounds exactly like what I was planning on doing. You can see some light scratches and swirls and quite frankly I think that 105 will be a little overkill - therefore I plan on doing the whole car with 205 and a few orange pads followed by a wipedown, then moving onto paint sealant with either black or red "soft buff pads" (not sure which one yet, probably black) again followed by another wipedown, and finish up with NXT 2.0 wax (which I have grown to love haha) with a black pad or red "soft buff" followed by a wipedown. After that I will stand in satisfaction and awe :buffing:

If I really need to, I will just go back and touch up spots with the 105 before I apply the sealant - but I honestly dont think that will be needed.

I have the car sitting in the garage, freshly washed, vacuumed, glass cleaned, and clayed - just awaiting this 3 or possibly 4 steps and then we will be golden :dblthumb2: Looking to potentially do this tomorrow night.

Once I had mine washed ,clayed, dried, completely dust free. I would say it took me around 6 hrs to apply the 205. The car looked fantastic with just that step. I did not use a sealant but wen't right to the nxt 2.0 with a black or gray pad whatever you call it. The wax did not add much more shine but left the car with that real slick feeling when you rub your hand on it like glass. That took around 4 hrs. You should try some before and after photos, I wish I had. Good luck Mike, love to see a picture of your vet.
Dennis

 

[LSwon]

Once I had mine washed ,clayed, dried, completely dust free. I would say it took me around 6 hrs to apply the 205. The car looked fantastic with just that step. I did not use a sealant but wen't right to the nxt 2.0 with a black or gray pad whatever you call it. The wax did not add much more shine but left the car with that real slick feeling when you rub your hand on it like glass. That took around 4 hrs. You should try some before and after photos, I wish I had. Good luck Mike, love to see a picture of your vet.
Dennis

Was planning on starting today but a few things popped up so I didn't have time, but I did manage to tape up the rear corner lights and plastic trim (windows and the semi circle strip around the tonneau) so it is ready to go for tomorrow. Definitely going to snap some before and afters, plus I already laid out a 50/50 line on the trunk lid. Gonna hit it with 205 + orange first, sealant with black next, and then nxt 2.0 on the red soft buff pads - of course followed by a wipedown in between every step. We will see where that leads us ladies and gents...have a good night.


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I just have a quick.question, when I got the backing plate there was a plastic cap covering the screw and a plastic washer on it too.

Am I supposed to.keep the washer on there?

Yes. Treat the compression washer like gold. Don't lose it.

Keep the little rubber nut to lock it into place when not using that backing plate. It's probably more likely you'll own more backing plates into the future than less likely.
(The proof is you're a member of this forum. Just sayin...)

I have scads of backing plates in drawer in the studio and it's nice reaching for a backing plate and having the spacer washer intact with the backing plate.

So don't lose the rubber nut and don't lose the compression washer as it performs multiple functions.

Crushable Interface
The compression washer provides a crushable or malleable interface between two pieces of metal that are going to see a lot of pressure from being tightened together with a wrench and my guess is a lot of punishment from the operator. I punish all my tools... so it's not a reach to think others are going to punish their's too. Add to the above mix, the violent oscillating action of the tool on the highest speed setting and add to that t-i-m-e...

By time, I mean putting your polisher to work buffing out a car section-by-section, panel-after-panel. As Pros know and anyone that wants to get the job in a decent amount of time, when you start buffing out a car you have to keep the tool running and buffing on paint. There's no breaks. That's time of endured punishment.

Point being is you want and need the crushable interface between two pieces of metal on an electric tool capable of running at high OPMs.


Spacer
They also act as an actual spacer between the arbor or stud seat where there are the raised heads of a type of rivet or brad that anchors the arbor base to the the backing plate and the threaded portion of the Free Rotating Spindle Bearing Assembly.


Free Rotating Spindle Bearing Assembly

From the below thread,

5 Inch Backing Plates for DA Polishers - Pictures and Links

Here you can see a compression washer seated at the base or seat of the 5/16" arbor or stud where it's attached into the backing plate surrounded by the raised heads of the rivets or attachment anchors.

So yeah... keep track of both the compression washer and the rubber nut.

Stupid question I know, but I don't want to screw something up.

Actually it's a great question.


:xyxthumbs:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

but I did manage to tape up the rear corner lights and plastic trim (windows and the semi circle strip around the tonneau) so it is ready to go for tomorrow.

Just to mention always be mindful of how long you leave painters tape on...

I want tape on the car for the least amount of time possible, no matter what the project. Put it this way... when working with adhesive tape... more and more time isn't going to make things better and better... Extreme temps like real hot weather or real cold weather can also make removing painter's tape that's been left on for extended time difficult. So just be mindful...

Definitely going to snap some before and afters, plus I already laid out a 50/50 line on the trunk lid. Gonna hit it with 205 + orange first, sealant with black next, and then nxt 2.0 on the red soft buff pads - of course followed by a wipedown in between every step. We will see where that leads us ladies and gents...have a good night.

Sounds like a good time.


:xyxthumbs:

 

[LSwon]

Just to mention always be mindful of how long you leave painters tape on...

I want tape on the car for the least amount of time possible, no matter what the project. Put it this way... when working with adhesive tape... more and more time isn't going to make things better and better... Extreme temps like real hot weather or real cold weather can also make removing painter's tape that's been left on for extended time difficult. So just be mindful...

Uh oh. It will be on the car until I get home from work (about 3 today). My garage is slightly warm because it is heated but the temp isn't hot hot. I got the really non adhesive tape, it actually hardly stuck to the plastic as it kept curling up last night...I don't think I will have an issue, at least I hope not. The only place it is on the paint is a 50/50 line on the trunk decklid. I just got ancy and did it last night haha. I have the detailing bug now!!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I got the really non adhesive tape, it actually hardly stuck to the plastic as it kept curling up last night...I don't think I will have an issue, at least I hope not.

Just something to be mindful about...

I saw a car at a body shop once that had been taped-off and then for whatever reason it was never finished and the tape was baked-on solid like it was a part of the car.

 

[LSwon]

Just something to be mindful about...

I saw a car at a body shop once that had been taped-off and then for whatever reason it was never finished and the tape was baked-on solid like it was a part of the car.

Baked on the paint? Yikes....

I don't think the rubber and plastic (or corner lights) will matter, at least I hope not...we will see when I get home...

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[flhden]

Baked on the paint? Yikes....

I don't think the rubber and plastic (or corner lights) will matter, at least I hope not...we will see when I get home...

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Mike: I have worked with tape & masking thousands of times over the years. Never buy cheap plain masking tape especially if it's used in the sun as that is when adhesive transfer takes place. 3m blue painters tape is very sticky and sometimes comes off quite hard if left on for a few days. They also make a delicate version of their blue tape which is quite thin but comes off very easily on delicate surfaces. A good grade of automotive masking is recommended. I have also used a green tape called frog tape with good results. If the tape comes off hard, pull at a 90degree angle slowly and if it leaves an adhesive residue use clean paint thinner and a clean cotton or microfiber cloth to remove it. It will not harm the paint or chrome or lenses. NEVER use lacquer thinner. An extra couple of bucks spent on a good grade of tape is worth it every time. I've noticed AG sells tape and I am quite sure it must be a recommended type. I spray lacquer and enamels in the housing industry so it is some what different, but I have had horror shows with cheap tape over the years.
Mike Phillips will know which tape is the best to use in this situation, I would take his advice.