Newbie to rotary

[Robert8194]

It may just be me but at the July classes, we had the opportunity to use virtually every machine AG sells. I went to the classes expecting to bring a 3401 home. I could not control it. It walked all over the place. I had the same experience with the Makita and DeWalt rotary machines. I thought I would never buy a rotary after all of the horror stories but I bought the Flex PE 14 and love it. I am still learning but it handles like a dream. I am doing an M6 this weekend and think I lack the nerve and experience to use The Flex on something that expensive. So, the PC and GG will get the call.

 

[tuscarora dave]

Good suggestion. I have a 3401 and use it from time to time on non correction "just shine it up type jobs" but it will do good correction fairly quick.

Dave, you're contradicting yourself a bit. can you please explain?

No he's not.... he's saying "I use it on non-correction jobs, but if I wanted to use it for correction I could since it does a fairly good/quick job."

Mis-read for the lose. My bad.

You guys are the best!!!:xyxthumbs:

 

[flawlesss1]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I still can not make up my mind. i would really like to get the rotary, and learn how to use it. i guess its just for my own personal use what could be the harm. Practice makes perfect. I guess We will see what happens! Thanks again.

Doug:buffing:

 

[buddhadog]

Im confused Doug ..........you said you worked in a bodyshop for 3 years and used to buff all day long but you dont know how to use a rotary?(did I get that right?) What were you using to buff with, a DA ?

There is a very big difference in buffing out fresh paint and factory paint . Fresh paint is much easier/softer and a lot more of it so you need to know factory paint is much thinner and therefore you will need to be much more careful about burning edges and going too deep .

A DA or Flex3401 DA will be a much safer option for and have a rotary "feel" to it but take longer to correct with than a rotary.

 

[Jeffk]

I'm kind of in the same boat as Doug except I still have the Makita Variable speed Rotary I bought when I was working at the body shop. I bought a new 6" LC backing pad, some 6.5" LC hydrotech pads and a variety of materials recently. I went to my Vista blue 09 Mustang GT this weekend and ended up with fantastic results. No holograms or burn throughs. I had at first tried some older wool pads on the passenger side door when some idiot scuffed it, now that left holgrams.
I kept the machine on the lowest speed for all steps and I'm proud of the results.
Just get the right pads and materials and take your time.

 

[budinsc]

if you have ever burned a ridge or edge with a rotary as i have you would be well advised to stick with a da and use proper pads and polishes. repainting a panel is very expensive.

budinsc