Hi Bear,
Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:
Sorry for the late reply, kind of on the road right now...
Here's your pictures, you "attached"' them, I downloaded them and then uploaded them into your gallery so they can be inserted instead of attached, this makes it easier for people to see them and then talk about them.
Here's the link to your gallery...
Bear Gallery - AutogeekOnline Gallery
I tried to upload photos; I think I was successful. I am wet sanding my 1999 CRV. It was recently painted about 2 weeks ago. I bought the Griot's & the Meguiar's headlight repair kit to damp sand in small, tight areas. Everything has gone well; however, when I compare my pics to the pics on the forum, I am still seeing some texture in the paint in certain areas. Could that be just the way the light is hitting it. Do I need to keep sanding?
You want to know where your comfort level is for the risk you're taking. The car was repainted, did you ask the painter to spray extra clear? Did you tell the painter you planned on wetsanding the paint?
My worry is sanding too far down.
That is the "worry".
Here's something I type all the time on this topic just for anyone reading that doesn't know a lot about wetsanding,
- Wetsanding removes a little paint
- Compounding removes a little paint
- Polishing removes a little paint
So keep this in mind because each step is going to remove some level or measure of precious clear paint. If you go through, that is if you're sanding, compounding or polishing and go through the clear to the color coat, you'll experience what I call a sinking feeling in your heart as the full effect of what this means starts to really sink in.
If you have plenty of clear you should be okay though...
The main areas where I am having problems are side panels - front fender, doors, etc. Hood looks great.
Large panels, especially flat or only lightly curved are pretty easy, it's when you get into the complicated designs of a body style where the panel is thin and there are edges or raised body lines that it gets tricky and even complicated.
Once I'm done with the wet sanding, I'll jump to the 3000 grit.
After that should I use a foam pad, or a wool pad.
I like to do all my initial cutting with a wool cutting pad and a good compound. Wool pads generate less heat than foam cutting pads when using a rotary buffer and heat is your enemy.
I have a number of articles and videos on wetsanding, most important things to remember are,
Don't sand where you cannot buff, that is don't sand where you cannot fit a high speed rotating wool pad. If you do sand close to a body line, raised edge or tight are you can always remove your sanding marks by hand and then go back over the area by machine to remove any marks left by hand polishing.
As for seeing surface texture or "Orange Peel" AFTER sanding... if you want to get the paint 100% flat you need to sand till all the surface texture or orange peel is removed and the surface is as flat as a chalk board.
At the same time, balance how much you sand with you're comfort level for risk. This is where "planning" comes into play and you plan with your painter for them to spray extra paint.
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