Newbie with brand new car
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Andr3wilson
New member
- May 16, 2012
- 1,615
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- Thread starter
- #23
Aha! Thanks Andrew!
I didn't answer your other question.... I am absolutely going to attempt to do this right the first time and hate skimping, so I have no problem going after the best products. I'll take a serious look at the Swissvax. :xyxthumbs:
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
My rule of thumb is to tape off anything I don't want to "detail" afterwards.
By the word "detail" I mean take a toothbrush or some other device or cleaning product to remove compound, polish or wax residue off rubber, vinyl or plastic trim.
Once black trim becomes stained it's really hard to remove the whitish, visual staining effect 100%. You can apply dressings, sealants, coatings and even dye the trim back to black but removing the whitish stain 100% forever is pretty hard to do.
Here's a tip for everyone that will read this into the future... when buying a new car, take the amount of black or dark gray plastic, vinyl and rubber trim on the exterior of the car into consideration if you don't like taping a car off and you don't like the extra work of avoiding getting compound, polish and wax residue on these areas.
Someone on one of the European forums I post to asked me why I like to work on classics, streetrods and antiques and I told him one of the primary reasons is because they don't have any plastic trim.
Like this car I buffed out recently...
1951 Mercury - Black Lacquer Paint - Extreme Makeover
Look Ma... no plastic trim...
- Thread starter
- #26
Now that's a cool car!
I haven't done a full inventory of what potentially needed to be taped, but it sure did spook me. Looking at just the hood, luckily the wiper arms and such are all hidden under the hood. Kind of like an over hang. So I'm sure I can get away with covering it up with the beach towel idea (great idea, btw!).
Would you recommend taping off chrome trim as well?
I haven't done a full inventory of what potentially needed to be taped, but it sure did spook me. Looking at just the hood, luckily the wiper arms and such are all hidden under the hood. Kind of like an over hang. So I'm sure I can get away with covering it up with the beach towel idea (great idea, btw!).
Would you recommend taping off chrome trim as well?
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
I don't tape off chrome or stainless, in fact I run my buffing pad over all of it after all the paint polishing work is done.
See what I say about this in this thread...
How to use a one-step cleaner/wax to maximize profits
See Step 7
TH3M B0N3Z
New member
- Jan 6, 2013
- 745
- 0
Here's what I started with when I first truly detailed my car.
The Porter Cable 7424XP is an awesome tool, you won't regret buying it. The very first pads I ever used and still use are Lake Country Hydro Tech cyan (cutting pad), tangerine (polishing pad) and crimson (glaze/sealant/wax pad) pads. I also used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. I believe it's cutting power is in between Meguiar's 105 and 205, and it worked perfectly on my 6 year old car that had just some minor washing/drying scratches and even bird poo stains. And it's about 10 bucks a bottle, you really can't go wrong. It worked wonders on my car, so I can only imagine it'll do just fine on a brand new car with brand new paint.
It's sad that a brand new car can already have swirls in the paint, but that's dealership car washers for you. I work at a Toyota dealership in the Parts Dept. and we have courtesy cars that are loaned out for service customers. These cars are washed by the guys in "detail". Each and every one of those cars have CRAZY swirls... so the new cars are going to look exactly the same, I'm afraid.
Your new car's paint will need a good clay bar treatment and you probably won't have to do much polishing. However, start out with a polish rather than a compound. If a polish will remove the defects, then you've just saved your car some clear coat, lol. German cars tend to have harder paint, so you may have to use a compound, but just start with the least aggressive first and bump it up if necessary.
Once that process is done, you've got to maintain the paint by properly washing and properly drying your car. If that is ignored, you'll put scratches right back in the paint over time and you'll find yourself starting over once again. Always use two buckets, one for soapy water, one for rinse water, and use two wash mitts, one for the top-half of the car, one for the bottom-half. Invest in a foam gun, as well. The Gilmour foam gun is a great addition to washing your car. You can rinse the car heavily at first, then use the foam gun and let the sudsy foam dwell a minute or two and then rinse that all off and then start your washing. When it comes to drying, use a soft microfiber drying towel and some detail spray. I'll spray a section at a time and dry and keep on repeating the process until my car is dry. The detail spray is watery but has lubrication (it's very often used with a clay bar) and it basically keeps a layer of lubrication between your drying towel and the paint, minimizing the chances of putting more scratches into the paint. If you follow these steps, you'll be maintaining your paint pretty well.
All of this is a ton of information and can be overwhelming, but if you want to keep your new Audi looking better than when you bought it, this is what must be done. I have a 2007 Mazda3 and the paint looks like glass. A cousin of mine has the same exact car, same year and color, but the paint was never cared for. It's so dull that even claying the paint (which was HEAVILY contaminated) didn't really make the paint look any better, lol. That car could use some major compounding and polishing. Maybe I can do that someday, lol.
Anyway, feel free to message me if you have any questions.
- Thread starter
- #30
I've been chipping away at my ever growing shopping list. I'm really chomping at the bit to start working on the car, but mother nature has not cooperated whatsoever. It's rained for a week straight. I am going to have the weekend where it'll get into the high 40s during the day, but then a cold snap is coming next week. So I may not have the time to do much in the near future. 
At any rate, Here's what I got so far. Anyone up for critiquing?
Porter Cable 7424XP & CCS Pad Kit with these pads?
--Orange Light Cutting Foam 6.5"
--White Polishing Foam 6.5"
--CCS Super Soft Gold Jewelling Foam Pad 6.5"
not sure what else I'd need. Can choose 5 pads.
pad conditioning brush
Iron-x
Menzerna PF2500
Menzerna SF4500
2 grit guards
20" boar's hair wheel brush
Detailer's wheel glaze
WG finger pockets
WG black diamond tire gel
This with the Mother's kit I already bough should get me over the goal line, I think. I'm still undecided on the final wax.
At any rate, Here's what I got so far. Anyone up for critiquing?
Porter Cable 7424XP & CCS Pad Kit with these pads?
--Orange Light Cutting Foam 6.5"
--White Polishing Foam 6.5"
--CCS Super Soft Gold Jewelling Foam Pad 6.5"
not sure what else I'd need. Can choose 5 pads.
pad conditioning brush
Iron-x
Menzerna PF2500
Menzerna SF4500
2 grit guards
20" boar's hair wheel brush
Detailer's wheel glaze
WG finger pockets
WG black diamond tire gel
This with the Mother's kit I already bough should get me over the goal line, I think. I'm still undecided on the final wax.
Andr3wilson
New member
- May 16, 2012
- 1,615
- 0
Everything is good, but I would really go with the Griots Garages 3 DA. I have a PC and GG and I have to say the Griots is a lot better. Wish I got it in the beginning.
PC7424XP:
500 watt motor
4.5 AMPS
GG3:
850 watt motor
7.0 Amps
As far as pad choice, I would get some more finishing pads, or double up on the ones you have chosen.
The 20'' boars hair brush is really good brush, but you may want to look at one with a shorter handle. Sometimes the long handle can make it very cumbersome to clean with. Its up to you tho!
PC7424XP:
500 watt motor
4.5 AMPS
GG3:
850 watt motor
7.0 Amps
As far as pad choice, I would get some more finishing pads, or double up on the ones you have chosen.
The 20'' boars hair brush is really good brush, but you may want to look at one with a shorter handle. Sometimes the long handle can make it very cumbersome to clean with. Its up to you tho!
- Thread starter
- #32
Stupid question... Is that the 3" GG?
AudiFL
New member
- Nov 26, 2012
- 69
- 0
I think what he meant was the GG 3rd. generation. Which is the latest model.
Andr3wilson
New member
- May 16, 2012
- 1,615
- 0
HellaBroke
New member
- Oct 27, 2012
- 441
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are you dead set on the CCS pads??? im sure someone with much more machine time can chime in to either support or steer you other wise...
I started with CCS pads and i wish i hadn't... they are good pads dont get me wrong its easy to see the material removed in the dimples, and also easy to learn how much product to use or if your using too much by watching those dimples.... however in my opinion thats a very quick learning curve after you get going...
Using Hydrotech flat pads i found that its easier to keep the machine going, i found it much easier to work with just over all... the ability to keep the machine flat vs ccs i had a tendency to want to put more pressure down on one side or another i find the hydros easier to clean... and hold up a lot better over all...
Just my .02 both are good pads...
Quantity wise i like to have 3 of the same pads whatever they might be...
Just so that way i have one im working with one soaking/cleaning and one drying so i can easily keep switching in and out of CLEAN pads.
That was another perk to the Hydros... 9 5.5" pads and i have 3 of each... i also have 9 3" hydro 1.25" thick pads as well that are awesome for doing a,b,c pillars, side skirts and odd bumper pieces!
When i first jumped in i started with one of each color of CCS pads... they are handy and i still use them here and there... if i could go back i would have a lot more Hydro pads now..
I definitely back up your choice with Menzerna products as well i started with Pinnacle and it was awesome but i love the working time i get out of menzerna over the pinnacle
Iron X is the best "Insurance" as Mike puts it. might not need it but you never know! I use it every new detail now!
I like Meguires clay bars i didnt see that on your list..
are you planning on using the 20" boars brush for the fender liners? i see it being handy there but probably a pita for actual wheel cleaning... might want to pick up a short long haired brush for dedicated wheels and misc. and a lug nut brush! i dont know how i went so long without a lug nut brush they are awesome!!!
i mentioned the 3" pads above... 3-4" pads and backing plate come in handy on the tighter areas of the car... you can pull it off with 5.5/6.5" pads but they are definitely nice down the road when you get them
Chemical guys Grim reaper is awesome for wheel well liners under the hood... and gross odd ball areas! worth picking up a 16oz to at least give it a shot.
Mr. Pink is real nice soap. i have citrus wash and gloss as well but love the mr pink for weekly washes.
carpro mit worth every penny...
Microfiber cleaner i have chemical guys microfiber cleaner and love it. haven't tried any powders yet so cant comment on that...
3M tape is awesome leaves very little tape residue, i also use regular Walmart painters tape if im out of 3m and in a hurry not bad. but i use it every car i hope thats in your arsenal.
70% isopropoline alcohol is good to have on hand just make sure you are careful and mix it to the proper dilution i use 10% i think the safety range is between 8-14% ( don't quote me please look that up before you mix your own... )
Chemical safe empty spray bottles.... handy! fill them with water when working on wheels and emblems or any other odd ball area... use them for an IPA wipe down mix ( post polish before sealant/wax) mixing all purpose cleaner... i have even used one for liquid souveran ( needed a larger container to get the product to mix in when shaking it...)
all kinds of micro fibers they all have different uses from the $10 Costco kind for trying tires and contaminate areas to the $10 each chinchilla towels... they all have a place...
Cant wait to see you post your un-wraping photos and the progress you make as you go!
Are you planning on using a sealant like opticoat 2.0? or using a wax??
If you plan on going with opticoat i highly recommend using there polishes as well from what i have read it makes prep a simple damp microfiber wipe down and you can apply...
another sealant you might want to use since your going with Menzerna already is Power Lock.
and remember a sealant can always be topped with a wax!
I like sealants for Daily drivers i think you get better protection and i can still put wax on and give it that extra pop when i want/need!
If you plan on going with a Wax, I Love Pinnacle souveran paste and signature series two. there is a Huge fanboy club on here for WG Fuzion and i have seen it do some amazing things for some paints.
I started with CCS pads and i wish i hadn't... they are good pads dont get me wrong its easy to see the material removed in the dimples, and also easy to learn how much product to use or if your using too much by watching those dimples.... however in my opinion thats a very quick learning curve after you get going...
Using Hydrotech flat pads i found that its easier to keep the machine going, i found it much easier to work with just over all... the ability to keep the machine flat vs ccs i had a tendency to want to put more pressure down on one side or another i find the hydros easier to clean... and hold up a lot better over all...
Just my .02 both are good pads...
Quantity wise i like to have 3 of the same pads whatever they might be...
Just so that way i have one im working with one soaking/cleaning and one drying so i can easily keep switching in and out of CLEAN pads.
That was another perk to the Hydros... 9 5.5" pads and i have 3 of each... i also have 9 3" hydro 1.25" thick pads as well that are awesome for doing a,b,c pillars, side skirts and odd bumper pieces!
When i first jumped in i started with one of each color of CCS pads... they are handy and i still use them here and there... if i could go back i would have a lot more Hydro pads now..
I definitely back up your choice with Menzerna products as well i started with Pinnacle and it was awesome but i love the working time i get out of menzerna over the pinnacle
Iron X is the best "Insurance" as Mike puts it. might not need it but you never know! I use it every new detail now!
I like Meguires clay bars i didnt see that on your list..
are you planning on using the 20" boars brush for the fender liners? i see it being handy there but probably a pita for actual wheel cleaning... might want to pick up a short long haired brush for dedicated wheels and misc. and a lug nut brush! i dont know how i went so long without a lug nut brush they are awesome!!!
i mentioned the 3" pads above... 3-4" pads and backing plate come in handy on the tighter areas of the car... you can pull it off with 5.5/6.5" pads but they are definitely nice down the road when you get them
Chemical guys Grim reaper is awesome for wheel well liners under the hood... and gross odd ball areas! worth picking up a 16oz to at least give it a shot.
Mr. Pink is real nice soap. i have citrus wash and gloss as well but love the mr pink for weekly washes.
carpro mit worth every penny...
Microfiber cleaner i have chemical guys microfiber cleaner and love it. haven't tried any powders yet so cant comment on that...
3M tape is awesome leaves very little tape residue, i also use regular Walmart painters tape if im out of 3m and in a hurry not bad. but i use it every car i hope thats in your arsenal.
70% isopropoline alcohol is good to have on hand just make sure you are careful and mix it to the proper dilution i use 10% i think the safety range is between 8-14% ( don't quote me please look that up before you mix your own... )
Chemical safe empty spray bottles.... handy! fill them with water when working on wheels and emblems or any other odd ball area... use them for an IPA wipe down mix ( post polish before sealant/wax) mixing all purpose cleaner... i have even used one for liquid souveran ( needed a larger container to get the product to mix in when shaking it...)
all kinds of micro fibers they all have different uses from the $10 Costco kind for trying tires and contaminate areas to the $10 each chinchilla towels... they all have a place...
Cant wait to see you post your un-wraping photos and the progress you make as you go!
Are you planning on using a sealant like opticoat 2.0? or using a wax??
If you plan on going with opticoat i highly recommend using there polishes as well from what i have read it makes prep a simple damp microfiber wipe down and you can apply...
another sealant you might want to use since your going with Menzerna already is Power Lock.
and remember a sealant can always be topped with a wax!
I like sealants for Daily drivers i think you get better protection and i can still put wax on and give it that extra pop when i want/need!
If you plan on going with a Wax, I Love Pinnacle souveran paste and signature series two. there is a Huge fanboy club on here for WG Fuzion and i have seen it do some amazing things for some paints.
vet
New member
- Jun 6, 2010
- 2,595
- 0
Welcome!
I'm by no means a pro, but I'll offer my opinions for what it's worth.
The Megs kit you have is probably not 'bad'. I use the clay bar and QD, and although there may be 'better' clay bars, this suits my purpose. I've seen the new car kit, and was tempted to buy it, but I have other waxes, etc. in my arsenal.
I have the PC 7424 XP, and am satisfied with it. I considered the GG, and sometimes think I should have gone that route. The more experienced people on this forum recommend the Flex, and if I had the money, I would probably go that route (you get what you pay for).
I recommend getting Mike's book or video, it's wealth of information, and a great reference, besides being a good read.
I haven't used iron x, so cannot comment on it. Your list sounds good, but it's only a start, as you will find more things to try.
From experience, use painters tape instead of regular masking tape. I used regular once, and it left a residue, and was hard to remove from the rubber seals, it even tore some of them.
I use the finger pockets for wheels, and like them. I also use the lug nut foam kit for washing and applying wax. I wrap a microfiber around the t-handle for drying and wax removal. on the lug nut areas.
I've been using DP poly for sealant, and top it with DP Max Wax after it cures. I like it. I use DP wheel cleaner and Wheel Sealant also, and have been satified with the results. like Mike says, find something you like and use it often.
I'm by no means a pro, but I'll offer my opinions for what it's worth.
The Megs kit you have is probably not 'bad'. I use the clay bar and QD, and although there may be 'better' clay bars, this suits my purpose. I've seen the new car kit, and was tempted to buy it, but I have other waxes, etc. in my arsenal.
I have the PC 7424 XP, and am satisfied with it. I considered the GG, and sometimes think I should have gone that route. The more experienced people on this forum recommend the Flex, and if I had the money, I would probably go that route (you get what you pay for).
I recommend getting Mike's book or video, it's wealth of information, and a great reference, besides being a good read.
I haven't used iron x, so cannot comment on it. Your list sounds good, but it's only a start, as you will find more things to try.
From experience, use painters tape instead of regular masking tape. I used regular once, and it left a residue, and was hard to remove from the rubber seals, it even tore some of them.
I use the finger pockets for wheels, and like them. I also use the lug nut foam kit for washing and applying wax. I wrap a microfiber around the t-handle for drying and wax removal. on the lug nut areas.
I've been using DP poly for sealant, and top it with DP Max Wax after it cures. I like it. I use DP wheel cleaner and Wheel Sealant also, and have been satified with the results. like Mike says, find something you like and use it often.
Wheelzntoys
New member
- Dec 18, 2011
- 573
- 0
5.5" pads if your going for the Porter, I also don't really care for CCS pads.
I like either flat pads or currently trying out the LC cool wave pads which I am liking.
I like either flat pads or currently trying out the LC cool wave pads which I am liking.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Exactly... it's kind of an irony, (no pun intended), but when you use a product like Iron X to remove Iron particles from your car's paint or your car's wheels, you actually DON"T want to see the bleeding effect.
I explain why in the text right above this picture...
In this article,
How to wash your car KISS style!
Thank you. I invested a lot of time to carefully share a lot of information in my first how-to book and if a person were to read it from cover to cover they will know more than most detailers in this industry that don't get on forums like this one.
Paperback
And the above really is the secret to maintaining a nice finish on anything...
:xyxthumbs:
Exactly... it's kind of an irony, (no pun intended), but when you use a product like Iron X to remove Iron particles from your car's paint or your car's wheels, you actually DON"T want to see the bleeding effect.
I explain why in the text right above this picture...
In this article,
How to wash your car KISS style!
Thank you. I invested a lot of time to carefully share a lot of information in my first how-to book and if a person were to read it from cover to cover they will know more than most detailers in this industry that don't get on forums like this one.
Paperback
And the above really is the secret to maintaining a nice finish on anything...
:xyxthumbs:
Mike,
Picked up the E-version of your book this past weekend and have been reading. I love it... even pushed it to my i-phone so when I have a few spare minutes during the day I can sneak in a few pages. As a newbie, I know I have a lot to learn so it great to have a reference like this to go to. Thanks for sharing.
PS. Oregon is still just as wet as when you left us :cheers:
- Thread starter
- #40
So I kind of put this on hold thanks to Mother Nature not being so nice. Spring is coming quickly, so I'm dusting this one off. I'm itchin' to fix this poor car. I washed her this past weekend since it was a balmy 50 and sunny and wow are there some major swirls on this thing.I've been chipping away at my ever growing shopping list. I'm really chomping at the bit to start working on the car, but mother nature has not cooperated whatsoever. It's rained for a week straight. I am going to have the weekend where it'll get into the high 40s during the day, but then a cold snap is coming next week. So I may not have the time to do much in the near future.
At any rate, Here's what I got so far. Anyone up for critiquing?
Porter Cable 7424XP & CCS Pad Kit with these pads?
--Orange Light Cutting Foam 6.5"
--White Polishing Foam 6.5"
--CCS Super Soft Gold Jewelling Foam Pad 6.5"
not sure what else I'd need. Can choose 5 pads.
pad conditioning brush
Iron-x
Menzerna PF2500
Menzerna SF4500
2 grit guards
20" boar's hair wheel brush
Detailer's wheel glaze
WG finger pockets
WG black diamond tire gel
This with the Mother's kit I already bough should get me over the goal line, I think. I'm still undecided on the final wax.
At any rate, I've tweaked my shopping list.
GG3 6" DA (pads still TBD)
pad conditioning brush
Iron-x
Menzerna PF2500
Menzerna SF4500
2 grit guards
Detailer's wheel glaze
WG finger pockets
Meg's gold class endurance tire gel
Cobra Guzzler
Wax/sealant TBD