Noobe with new truck

ok. First off I'm in for the dos equis. Secondly, I truly appreciate all the advice, even the dissension. I admire passion and where there is pasion there is ...
It's all good.
 
It is just hard to communicate online. If it were in person we could all sing Kumbaya.

And help each other out further.

Instead of pointing fingers and saying "No your wrong" how about saying "why don't you try this"

I get so much criticism for still staying on here and learning, instead of me saying "ok I have learned, off I go" and doing incorrect work, I am still here learning.

I have been able to tell the difference between the helpers and the criticizers however.

Like I said: "just trying to help"
 
Hey. Art. Really appreciate your feedback. Stay passionate!
 
This?

View attachment 18560

This was before I discovered AG, before my accident. A couple of years back.

I have never got paid money to wash a car. I have gotten paid $150, to clay, compound, polish, wax an entire car, using my rotary snapon, that the owner just flipped(sold) for profit.

Back then I though that was good money, but now since being here on AG
I know it's worth more what I provided.

Also AG has showed me to always stay professional, and charge professional prices, so I don't get stuck with "hey that's the guy that charges $100 for full paint correction"

That's why I said "I have never gotten paid, should have said truly paid, and yes if I was running a business at $150 for the entire car i would be losing money.

Since AG I now say for paint correction: "I have i look at the car first, but I'll work with you" (still in the works lol)

Made this myself on my Iphone lol
View attachment 18561
Poweraid gave me the idea haha,
 
hernandez.art13 said:
This?

View attachment 18560

This was before I discovered AG, before my accident. A couple of years back.

I have never got paid money to wash a car. I have gotten paid $150, to clay, compound, polish, wax an entire car, using my rotary snapon, that the owner just flipped(sold) for profit.

Back then I though that was good money, but now since being here on AG
I know it's worth more what I provided.

Also AG has showed me to always stay professional, and charge professional prices, so I don't get stuck with "hey that's the guy that charges $100 for full paint correction"

That's why I said "I have never gotten paid, should have said truly paid, and yes if I was running a business at $150 for the entire car i would be losing money.

Since AG I now say for paint correction: "I have i look at the car first, but I'll work with you" (still in the works lol)

Made this myself on my Iphone lol
View attachment 18561
Poweraid gave me the idea haha,
Click to expand...

Oh forgot to add don't want to tried guilty by the AG jury. This car was a neglected exterior car that looked like just washing was a blessing for it. It had to be a 2000 (to long ago to remember exactly)
 
Old Girl said:
Hi, everyone! In March I bought a 2013 toyota tacoma 4WD. I've clayed it, used sme other products such as polish and a good wax. Then I found this site and am learning so much. I have a few questions that I'm sure you guys could answer for me if you please. The color of the truck is red. I've used the Blackfire wet diamon and the sun wax and so far I like it a lot.

1. Are there specific products that are better for this color than others?

[B]No one product is better for certain colors. All you gloss depth and clarity of you paint will come at the polishing point of the process. Also, just as a reminder thats to achieve your highest gloss you always want to have a smooth surface. Since you have stated you have clayed your paint then your certainly on the right track.[/B]

2. I can't see any swirls or scratches but I just used a flashlight and the garage flourescents. Would the Brinkman light be a good purchase?

[B]A Brinkman is a very handy tool and great for when there is no sun outside to check you work or if you don't ave powerful shop lights. Purchasing one is solely up to you. I have one and it gets lost of use. [/B]

3. I've already had my first fender bender and just got it back yesterday. They had to repaint some areas so is there a cure time before I can safely use products and buff?

For fresh paint the minimum is 30 days however that can go up to 90 days. The best way to find out is to call the body shop that did the work and ask them to tell what they recommend. In the meantime if you feel you need to protect the paint you can always use any "Bodyshop Safe" products.

I also have the Flex 3401 and only use MF towels.

Thanks for any help you can give me. T
Click to expand...

Alll your answers are in blue. :props:
 
I hope these pics load. I wanted to show what my truck looks like now and see if anyone else thinks it looks kind of plastic-like. Also, I noticed some dried wax (from body shop?) on the black trim. Why would they wax my truck? I will be calling them tomorrow. Anyway hope these come out. Ok this isn't working well but this is the hood. Unfortunately you need to scroll down to see the whole thing. Sorry. I will keep trying. Thanks. T

AG_2.jpg
 
Old Girl said:
I hope these pics load. I wanted to show what my truck looks like now and see if anyone else thinks it looks kind of plastic-like. Also, I noticed some dried wax (from body shop?) on the black trim. Why would they wax my truck? I will be calling them tomorrow. Anyway hope these come out. Ok this isn't working well but this is the hood. Unfortunately you need to scroll down to see the whole thing. Sorry. I will keep trying. Thanks. T

AG_2.jpg
Click to expand...

Hey T your photo showed up.

Are you talking about the entire hood or just the air scoop part looking plastic just so we are clear.

Secondly, the body shop may have it the area with a polish and a rotary rather than the wax. If it is was then I would question the work but again that's if it was wax.
 
Hi, Evan. Actually, when I look at the hood while I'm sitting in the truck the whole hood looks like plastic. I've seen here where others have had the same comment about theirs.

On the trim, what would work to get that stuff off?
 
Old Girl said:
Hi, Evan. Actually, when I look at the hood while I'm sitting in the truck the whole hood looks like plastic. I've seen here where others have had the same comment about theirs.

On the trim, what would work to get that stuff off?
Click to expand...

Well if the hood has been polished and sealed with wet diamond then most certainly it would have very slick look and shine.

For the trim you could use and all purpose
Cleaner like Meguiars all purpose cleaner plus and a
Bristle brush or a vinyl cleaner like meguiars m39.
 
many things could be giving you a plastic...or candied look.

* it could be a plastic hood (kinda common with scoops/induction cowls)

* there is a flexible agent added to paint that allows painted plastic parts to remain flexible...another possibility..but usually on plastic bumper cowls etc.

* the least likely option is they sealed the paintwork with a sealant that gives a candied or plastic look....like Klasse...again, not very likely if this is the area repaired, and having white residue.
 
Thanks, Primo. I wasn't very clear I think. The area that had to be repaired was the left bumper area. These pics are just after I did all the polishing, etc. The wax/polish on the trim is what I was trying to show in the last pic. I just don't know why a body shop repairing a bumper would wax or whatever the entire exterior of the bed. Weird. The truck was good to start with. Oh well.

I guess when I see others cars they look crisp rather than plastic like.
 
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