Noobie Needing Compound/Polish Product Advice

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wardpr68

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Hi everyone, first post here.

I own a 2012 VW GTI, white, and I will be looking to do my first machine polish in the spring. So, I am doing my research now.

We have pretty harsh winters here with lots of snow, sand, gravel, and salt.

My plan is to do a 2 bucket wash, clay (it will need it), but then this is where I get lost. The car has some very light scratches in a few places and some water spots. I was looking at the poorboy product line as I don't want to spend a ton on product for my first attempt... once I get better I am sure I will bite on some fancy stuff.

I was looking at the chart here on AutoGeek and guessed the following: (Autogeek Swirl Removers & Compounds Comparison Chart)

Wash
Clay
Poorboy SSR 2.5 (Orange or white pad, will test white first)
Poorboy Polish With Sealant
Wax (I will likely go with Meguiar's NXT, as I have used it in the past).

So my big question is, is it correct to go from the SSR 2.5 to the Polish with sealant? I really want a wax over a sealant so as to provide maximum protection as I park outside and the environment is pretty harsh here. Do I need to add another step as kind of a less aggressive polishing step?

Let me know your thoughts, and thanks!
 
Wash
Clay
Compound
finishing polish
IPA wipe down or Top inspection
sealant
wax
 
Excellent. Which products of poorboy's do you think would best work for this situation? (Of course you will never know unless you see the car... but as a best guess?)

I just don't understand which products of theirs are compounds, polishes, sealants and waxes.

The SSR1 sounds like a 2 in 1 polish and sealant.
 
Welcome to the forum....
Might be easier to get Pinnacle The secret to the combo is to use the Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover (ASR) first, followed by the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish (AFP). or Wolfgang twins Wolfgang 8 oz. Swirl Remover Combo, Wolfgang polishes, total swirl remover, finishing glaze, machine glaze
Poorboys starts at 3(most aggressive swirl remover, compound) then 2.5, 2, 1 (least aggressive)
Polish with sealant (PWS)
Depending how bad the finish is with swirls, micromarring, etc. Pad choice will be important too.
I'm sure you've read a lot, http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ke-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html

Good luck:buffing:

I have sample sizes of all 4 Poorboys if you want them, n/c!!
 
Interesting stuff. I will likely go with the pinnacle solution. I just wasn't sure which polish I should follow up the swirl correction with.

Thank You!
 
I have two candy white golfs a 2 door R and a 4 door tdi. If they are swirled or scratched I recommend menzerna 2500 and for rids 400... I follow both up with 4500 and you will be amazed at how much gloss you can get from candy white. I have no experience with poor boys but I can tell you I tried pinnicale advanced swirl remover and while this removed light swirls still left deeper swirls (hydro tech pads and pc were used) vw candy white is harder than you would think... Just my experience every cars different both mine have the same June build date for my12 so makes sense the paint is the same for both.
Best of luck after I got both mine to my liking I opticoated them and topped with reload.
I also recommend using a standup 600w shop light will greatly improve ur ability to catch rids and swirls...
Mine were a pita... So I wish u the best!
(Swirls came from the dealer I was deployed when my wife took delivery and while she's trained well in washing refused to be pushy with the dealer and be there for the unwrapping... Oh well she supports the detailing sickness..)
 
:welcome: To Autogeek Online!!

Poorboy's World offers some superb products that not only work, they work very well. If you'd like to stay with their line theses should please you



Wash - Poorboy's World Wash
Clay - Meguiar’s Clay
Compound - Poorboy's World SSR3
Medium Polish - Poorboy's World SSR2
Finishing Polish - Poorboy's World SSR1
Sealant - Poorboy's World EX-P Sealant
Wax - Collinite 845[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]
Foam Polishing Pads


Yellow Cutting 5.5 inch Foam Pad - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting 5.5 inch Foam Pad - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing 5.5 inch Foam Pad - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so its perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Gray Finishing 5.5 inch Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing 5.5 inch Foam Pad – Flat pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.
 
wardpr68 said:
Hi everyone, first post here.

I own a 2012 VW GTI, white, and I will be looking to do my first machine polish in the spring. So, I am doing my research now.

We have pretty harsh winters here with lots of snow, sand, gravel, and salt.

My plan is to do a 2 bucket wash, clay (it will need it), but then this is where I get lost. The car has some very light scratches in a few places and some water spots. I was looking at the poorboy product line as I don't want to spend a ton on product for my first attempt... once I get better I am sure I will bite on some fancy stuff.

I was looking at the chart here on AutoGeek and guessed the following: (Autogeek Swirl Removers & Compounds Comparison Chart)

Wash
Clay
Poorboy SSR 2.5 (Orange or white pad, will test white first)
Poorboy Polish With Sealant
Wax (I will likely go with Meguiar's NXT, as I have used it in the past).

So my big question is, is it correct to go from the SSR 2.5 to the Polish with sealant? I really want a wax over a sealant so as to provide maximum protection as I park outside and the environment is pretty harsh here. Do I need to add another step as kind of a less aggressive polishing step?

Let me know your thoughts, and thanks!
Click to expand...

You have a special vehicle. I am sure you knew this already but it goes deeper.

VW's typically have ceramic clear coats (ceramiclear); very hard clear coats. For the time and effort savings alone you should go with Menzerna polishes. I have no experience with Poorboys but I have used Meguiars M205 and M105, and Wolfgang TSR on my 2012 VW CC. Using orange/white pads they could not remove the fine swirling I saw on my panels; and I have Flex 3401 to boot! I still remember applying a lot of pressure. It is funny in retrospect. Menzerna, removed them with ease!!!! Here is an approximate breakdown of products.

IS-4000 - Medium Polish
PF-2500 - As close to an AIO as you can get with Menzerna

With your description of the paint condition I'd try out PF-2500 first; and with a flat polishing pad. The intention would be to get "at least" (conservatively speaking) 85% correction with this one product. If you need deeper treatment on some panels/spots then IS-4000 with a polishing or cutting pad followed-up with PF-2500 (polishing pad) should do the trick.

NOTE: Once you end up with PF-2500 on the vehicle you can do another pass with light/finishing polish pad but that's only if you see a difference in look and/or feel. This last part may be overkill but for the OCD people out there, this may work out for you.

With these 2 Menzerna products you eliminate both PB products and NXT. The reason you eliminate NXT is because there are cleaners in NXT and you wouldn't want to eliminate anything PF-2500 left you. In theory, you could apply NXT with a wax pad, or any pad that has zero cut. That would give you the sealant properties to lock-in the gloss. If you will replace NXT, then in it's place you get a pure sealant or wax. Collinite 845 will serve you well as an LSP since it is a very cost effect sealant/wax and will give you at least 4-5 months of protection.


Best of luck!
 
I'm a noobie also...haven't used the products you listed but having great results with menzerna FG 400 and SF4000 with very limited experience.
 
Joelotto said:
I'm a noobie also...haven't used the products you listed but having great results with menzerna FG 400 and SF4000 with very limited experience.
Click to expand...

Not saying your wrong not intending anything negative
Op 400 is a great compound and finishes out beautifully joellotto is I'm sure getting good results However I would avoid jumping straight to 400 "least aggressive means possible for correction esp if your car only has light swirls in it now no need to remove more clear than necessary
Now having said that I did a brand new black cts that I swear was painted with black Simone's even with 400 and hydro pads I was having a ruff time with a pc removing swirls... Every cars different but I feel pretty confident what I mentioned above will work for you.
 
Hey everyone, thought I would re-bump my thread rather than start a new one.

So here is what I am thinking:

Wash
Iron-X (lots of brown dots on my paint)
Clay
Menz PF-2500 on white LC CCS pad (will step up to FG-400 on Orange if needed)
Menz SF-4500 on gray LC CCS pad
Menz powerlock sealant
Collinite 845

Does this approach "make sense" ? I am likely going to put in an order for all my stuff soon as the weather is starting to warm up slightly.

Thanks for the all the help so far, can't wait to start this addiction.
 
No need to put both Menz sealant and C845, but yeah looks great to me!

What machine are you going to use?
 
I will be ordering the PC 7424XP.

Should I just go with the C845?
 
wardpr68 said:
I will be ordering the PC 7424XP. QUOTE]

Have you looked at the Griots Garage polisher?? More powerful and has a lifetime warranty.

Either V2 or V3 is fine--both have the same motor etc, but V3 has some ergonomic improvements.
Click to expand...
 
Ya I had looked at those, I decided to go with the PC just because I have seen/used it in the past and had no issues with it. Also, the package deal with the PC is exactly what I need.
 
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