Not getting any results

[Aingoi10207]

So today was my first time machine polishing. I purchased a PC 7424xp with CG hex logic 6.5" pad kit (yellow,orange,green,white,blue,black,red pads). I washed using mothers cali-gold carwash, a foam gun, and a 3 bucket method (wash, rinse, and separate wheel bucket) using grit guards in all 3. Followed up by claying. Considering my car is still new (2012 VW Beetle Turbo), there are not many defects (minor swirls, a couple shallow scratches, etc). I planned on just polishing with megs ultimate polish using the orange pad and finishing with a coat of mothers california gold synthetic wax. I did a test panel that had a minor scratch and some swirls, and achieved basically no results. I concluded that my paint is hard/the polish had little cut (from what I've read about UP) and needed something more abrasive, so I decided to try ultimate compound instead of the polish (again with the orange pad) thinking that'd for sure cut better. But after doing my whole roof and inspecting afterwards, it literally looks like I did absolutely nothing. Super frustrating to say the least. Could it be that I just have ridiculously hard paint? Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Thanks,

Aaron



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[Riff]

Uh oh. I tried Ultimate Polish with white pad on a 2009 Mazda 6 deck lid. Didn't see much so I changed to the orange pad. Also didn't see much improvement. My next step was to use Ultimate Compound but I didn't get to do that yet. I hope I'm not wasting my time.

 

[Kamakaz1961]

I am not too familiar with the Megs you are using. If you want to stick with the same family, look into Megs #105 for compounding and then Megs #205 for polishing. Use the Orange Pad for the 105 and a white pad for 205. Follow that with a sealant and then (if you want to) top of with a great carnauba wax.

Additionally, AGO has great videos on how to use the PC 7424 XP for polishing. Mike Phillips has great stuff on the whys, cans or cannot with the PC. That is what I would look into to see what you are doing wrong.

 

[GenesisCoupe]

So today was my first time machine polishing. I purchased a PC 7424xp with CG hex logic 6.5" pad kit (yellow,orange,green,white,blue,black,red pads). I washed using mothers cali-gold carwash, a foam gun, and a 3 bucket method (wash, rinse, and separate wheel bucket) using grit guards in all 3. Followed up by claying. Considering my car is still new (2012 VW Beetle Turbo), there are not many defects (minor swirls, a couple shallow scratches, etc). I planned on just polishing with megs ultimate polish using the orange pad and finishing with a coat of mothers california gold synthetic wax. I did a test panel that had a minor scratch and some swirls, and achieved basically no results. I concluded that my paint is hard/the polish had little cut (from what I've read about UP) and needed something more abrasive, so I decided to try ultimate compound instead of the polish (again with the orange pad) thinking that'd for sure cut better. But after doing my whole roof and inspecting afterwards, it literally looks like I did absolutely nothing. Super frustrating to say the least. Could it be that I just have ridiculously hard paint? Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Thanks,

Aaron



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Sounds like you are not going aggressive and that is what you need. I'd stick to the orange pad, but i'd look into Meguire M105/M205 products.

I know you are in the Chicago area (I'm in Addison), so go to your local AutoZone and they should have M105/205 for about $30-$35 a bottle. It's totally worth it!

Let me know if you got any questions or wanna try out any products!

 

[Ecoshine]

M105 and M205 is the go to for me. You can actually buy them at Habor Freight now....

 

[sethr]

So today was my first time machine polishing. I purchased a PC 7424xp with CG hex logic 6.5" pad kit (yellow,orange,green,white,blue,black,red pads). I washed using mothers cali-gold carwash, a foam gun, and a 3 bucket method (wash, rinse, and separate wheel bucket) using grit guards in all 3. Followed up by claying. Considering my car is still new (2012 VW Beetle Turbo), there are not many defects (minor swirls, a couple shallow scratches, etc). I planned on just polishing with megs ultimate polish using the orange pad and finishing with a coat of mothers california gold synthetic wax. I did a test panel that had a minor scratch and some swirls, and achieved basically no results. I concluded that my paint is hard/the polish had little cut (from what I've read about UP) and needed something more abrasive, so I decided to try ultimate compound instead of the polish (again with the orange pad) thinking that'd for sure cut better. But after doing my whole roof and inspecting afterwards, it literally looks like I did absolutely nothing. Super frustrating to say the least. Could it be that I just have ridiculously hard paint? Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated

I used Megs UC but with my PC but it was a PITA to remove. It sits on the shelf. I have been the NXT 2.0 route using their black pad and it punched it up. Masking the black trim wasn't for me though. I moved up to the Ultimate wax (sealant--not wax) and it was a major difference. Got me through the winter well with just a few touchless wash passes when the weather got above 40-deg.

Since then I have moved to--and settled on-- Duragloss 601/105. What an improvement for less money. Right over the Ultimate stuff.

My car is black metallic so I tried the DG on my wife's red metallic. Just one section to compare. It is better on that also IMO. Her 2-yr-old paint now looks like the roof of her car just painted last week.

 

[Vortech5.0]

If you want to stick with the same family, look into Megs #105 for compounding and then Megs #205 for polishing. Use the Orange Pad for the 105 and a white pad for 205.

This is the exact combo I'm using right now with good results. Give it a try.

 

[swanicyouth]

You may need a more aggressive combo, but my guess is if your new to machine polishing you may just need to hone your technique. This isn't the answer you probably want to hear, as it's a lot easier to think you just need to buy something else to get you where you want to go and all will be well.

Also, another tip is a PC is a good machine, but it's really optimized for correcting defects with a 5" BP & 5.5" pads. That's not to say a 6" set-up can't work, but for the noob, you going to get more correction done easier out of 5.5" pads. The reason for this is, since the PC isn't direct rotation, very powerful, or have an especially large through - the pad really needs to spin to achieve correction - and 6.5" pads may not be the easiest to keep spinning for someone who just started.

 

[Aingoi10207]

M105 and M205 is the go to for me. You can actually buy them at Habor Freight now....

I've been reading into the m105. It seems to be one of the best when it comes to compounds, but I'm just afraid to use such an aggressive product on my car considering my defects aren't that horrendous. Are there any dangers in using a product like m105 on a new car?


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[Ecoshine]

I would start out with the m205. Make your 6 passes, don't go fast. Inspect your work and if you see some correction I would consider that a win. I really like M105 with MF pads and polishing M205 with rupes yellow pad.

 

[Aingoi10207]

You may need a more aggressive combo, but my guess is if your new to machine polishing you may just need to hone your technique. This isn't the answer you probably want to hear, as it's a lot easier to think you just need to buy something else to get you where you want to go and all will be well.

Also, another tip is a PC is a good machine, but it's really optimized for correcting defects with a 5" BP & 5.5" pads. That's not to say a 6" set-up can't work, but for the noob, you going to get more correction done easier out of 5.5" pads. The reason for this is, since the PC isn't direct rotation, very powerful, or have an especially large through - the pad really needs to spin to achieve correction - and 6.5" pads may not be the easiest to keep spinning for someone who just started.

I haven't ruled this out either. I haven't had any practice machine polishing so I've not been able to hone in on my own technique yet. I've just been studying Larry Kosilla's (my favorite detailer) and the Chemical Guys youtube videos, which have both taught me a lot. They make it look so easy! Lol. And the thing you mentioned about the pad sizes... I do have a 3.5" backing plate along with 4" orange, green, white, and black hex logic pads coming tomorrow which I'd originally ordered just to reach smaller areas on my car. Maybe I'll have better luck correcting with that setup+the UC? I really don't want to go buy more products, I'm already over $400 in


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[Aingoi10207]

You may need a more aggressive combo, but my guess is if your new to machine polishing you may just need to hone your technique. This isn't the answer you probably want to hear, as it's a lot easier to think you just need to buy something else to get you where you want to go and all will be well.

Also, another tip is a PC is a good machine, but it's really optimized for correcting defects with a 5" BP & 5.5" pads. That's not to say a 6" set-up can't work, but for the noob, you going to get more correction done easier out of 5.5" pads. The reason for this is, since the PC isn't direct rotation, very powerful, or have an especially large through - the pad really needs to spin to achieve correction - and 6.5" pads may not be the easiest to keep spinning for someone who just started.

Oh, and about keeping the pad spinning... I did put the sharpie marks on the BP so I could Tell I had a lot of rotation throughout the whole process, could it be I wasn't applying enough pressure? I'm still unsure how hard I should be pressing down on the polisher itself.


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[swanicyouth]

Oh, and about keeping the pad spinning... I did put the sharpie marks on the BP so I could Tell I had a lot of rotation throughout the whole process, could it be I wasn't applying enough pressure? I'm still unsure how hard I should be pressing down on the polisher itself.


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You want to press down pretty hard. Harder than you would expect to remove defects. Also, you probably should be running that machine on speed 6.

You probably should watch Mike Phillip's videos on using a DA. I think he has the best approach to the whole thing and really doesn't miss much. He is also really good at teaching and relaying the pertinent information.

 

[RawDetail]

I had exactly the same issue as you are having when I first started out. I also tried the M105 but it had way too much dust which was just a pain in the butt. I went with Menzerna FG 400 and never looked back. Almost no dusting and awesome cutting.

When you say you a little scared to try harder cutting compounds, don't be. You won't wreck your paint.

 

[Aingoi10207]

You want to press down pretty hard. Harder than you would expect to remove defects. Also, you probably should be running that machine on speed 6.

You probably should watch Mike Phillip's videos on using a DA. I think he has the best approach to the whole thing and really doesn't miss much. He is also really good at teaching and relaying the pertinent information.

Interesting. I just watched Mike's 3 part video on using the PC for paint correction. I definetly don't think I was pressing down hard enough. Also, do you think stepping it up to the yellow cutting pad would be helpful? Thanks again for all your feedback.


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[Aingoi10207]

I had exactly the same issue as you are having when I first started out. I also tried the M105 but it had way too much dust which was just a pain in the butt. I went with Menzerna FG 400 and never looked back. Almost no dusting and awesome cutting.

When you say you a little scared to try harder cutting compounds, don't be. You won't wreck your paint.

Good to know I'm not the only one this has happened too!


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[HD.Detailing]

m101 is better than m105 if you order just food for thought

 

[Klasse Act]

m101 is better than m105 if you order just food for thought

M101 is the BEST polish I've ever used, finishes down so well that in most cases a finishing polish afterwards isn't needed. It costs more but when you see the results is sooo worth it! Quality doesn't cost, it pays!!

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[Jason2215]

Interesting. I just watched Mike's 3 part video on using the PC for paint correction. I definetly don't think I was pressing down hard enough. Also, do you think stepping it up to the yellow cutting pad would be helpful? Thanks again for all your feedback.


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I have a similar setup to the one you are using (PC, white/orange pads) and on my wife's '12 VW CC (Black) the orange pad with PB SSR2 (similar to 105 I believe) seen here: http://www.autopiaforums.com/Todd-Helme/polish-chart.jpg has been plenty on the worst spots. In most cases the white pad has worked fine. Recently bought BF SRC to try instead, but haven't had an opportunity yet.

Regardless, before you get more aggressive, like others have said, make sure you're pressing hard enough. I can't tell you how long I frustrated myself with no results. Try using a bathroom scale to press down on and see what the correct pressure feels like, and as others have said, move slow. Helped me alot. Good luck! rops:

 

[brondondolon]

I would start out with the m205. Make your 6 passes, don't go fast. Inspect your work and if you see some correction I would consider that a win. I really like M105 with MF pads and polishing M205 with rupes yellow pad.

I don't know about every one else but I really don't like UP or UC. I once used the UP when I was just starting out and didn't really know what I was doing and really saw no results. I just did a paint correction on my truck and didn't have any compound so I used the UP again. Now that I know what I'm doing I figured the first time I used it I had no success because I didn't know the right way to do things so it should work this time. Nope same thing. I mean I got it to work but it took forever even with a MF cutting pad. Try m105.

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