Not impressed with uber compound

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bugguy67

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Just received a bottle of wolfgang uber compound I ordered because of all the hype its been recieving. I decided to use it on a 2010 black Chevy truck that came in for a two step correction. Heavy swirls and a few deeper scratches. I thought this would be a great scenario to test out the "wonderful new uber compound" !...well I started with a new hybrid orange cutting pad on a flex 3401 primed the pad and applied three dime sized drops of compound and worked product in at speed 2 and then bumped up to speed 5 and everything was fine so far and at about my third pass heavy dusting started , got a little annoyed but continued to work the product until it flashed and stopped to wipe off product and it was very difficult I had to use detailing spray to wipe paint clean ...I at that point tried a different pad a ccs orange pad and no change...I tried a white hybrid pad just for giggles and it just gummed up bad!!...so I put the uber compound down and finished the truck with fg400 and so 40 with no issues what so ever!!!...so have I received a bad batch of uber compound because every one who has used it raves about how good it is and I got to tell you what I got is not good at all!!!
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Forgot to mention that the uber compound also wasn't removing the swirls let alone fine scratches.

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Finished with sf 4000 not "so 40"...stupid spell check lol

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I have experienced excellent results with Uber Compound on a LC Tangerine Hydrotech. I use a PC on speed 5 with 2 or 3 PEA sized drops on a primed pad. Not only does it finish great for me but it also removes some pretty deep rids when I lean on it a little. I haven't seen one speck of dust in the 3 or 4 times I have used it. I have also found it to wipe off easier than Total Swirl Remover 3.0.
 
bugguy67 said:
Just received a bottle of wolfgang uber compound I ordered because of all the hype its been recieving. I decided to use it on a 2010 black Chevy truck that came in for a two step correction. Heavy swirls and a few deeper scratches. I thought this would be a great scenario to test out the "wonderful new uber compound" !...well I started with a new hybrid orange cutting pad on a flex 3401 primed the pad and applied three dime sized drops of compound and worked product in at speed 2 and then bumped up to speed 5 and everything was fine so far and at about my third pass heavy dusting started , got a little annoyed but continued to work the product until it flashed and stopped to wipe off product and it was very difficult I had to use detailing spray to wipe paint clean ...I at that point tried a different pad a ccs orange pad and no change...I tried a white hybrid pad just for giggles and it just gummed up bad!!...so I put the uber compouou ever!!!...so have I received a bad batch of uber compound because every one who has used it raves about how good it is and I got to tell you what I got is not good at all!!!
Sent from my SPH-L720 using AG Online
Click to expand...

It's normal for an ORANGE Hybrid pad to "dust" the first time you use it.

Since you had difficulty using the product with 3 different types of pads (two different types of foam as well), then I would suggest adjusting your technique:

If the compound was difficult to wipe off, then you worked it too long or you didn't have enough product on the pad to begin with. Set your FLEX XC3401 to speed 6 (you are trying to remove swirls and scratches, right?), practice a slow arm speed and perform 5-6 overlapping passes - 10-15 lbs of downward pressure.

That should do the trick. :props:
 
Yeah...I also thought maybe it needed more shaking up to mix it well so I shook a lot lol...and to Nick ..I tried speed six and it immediately dusted !! And gummed up...I tried using more product then less product I tried using a slow speed ...I had read somewhere that "uber" liked slow speeds but to no avail. ..my arm speed was pretty slow also...I dunno ...I'm not giving up on yet!...I'm going to try it on a different car and see if maybe it was just one those weird anomalys. I was just so excited after hearing all the reviews . Hopefully a different car will make a difference.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using AG Online
 
Try to take a "annoying video" so we all can see what's going on to make suggestions or opinions.
 
Cut the speed back to 3 or 4 on the Flex. I haven't used Uber yet but use FG400 on the orange hybrid with the slower speed and get better results.

We all know for compounds we run them faster and the polishes slower when working. When I run these two I'm at speed 3 for FG400 and speed 5 for SF4000 on the 3401.

I also don't prime the pad with product. Just a quick spritz with pad conditioner and then add working product and go from there.
 
You're working too big of an area at a time and over working the product. uber compound is one of the easier products to use so sorry to say its human error.
 
My work area was a quarter of the hood so I'd say just about a two foot area and again I tried different methods of not working until it flashed and various methods and it was still a bear to wipe off. What I found weird was fg400 had no issues what so ever and people are saying the two compounds are similar...again it seems like I got a bad batch or something about the paint on this particular truck was reacting with the compound I dunno!...I am trying "uber" on a Ford fusion this afternoon, hopefully I will have a different experience. ...

Sent from my SPH-L720 using AG Online
 
Uber compound is my new go to. It's easy to use and finishes well. You're technique may be off a tad
 
smack said:
Cut the speed back to 3 or 4 on the Flex. I haven't used Uber yet but use FG400 on the orange hybrid with the slower speed and get better results.
Click to expand...


I agree with Mike on this...

I normally go right to the 6 speed setting for most compounds and polishes with the Flex 3401 and foam pads and while it does work good after reading how Mike uses lower speed settings I broke myself of my high speed habit and found that at least with this compound the 4-5 works as good and better.

Next... this compound is concentrated, that is it has a high content of abrasives and this means you really need to under use it, not over use it.

When you over use it you're going to see exactly what you're seeing, dusting, pilling and a lot of product on the surface that can be hard to wipe off.

Prime your pad and then use three small drops of what I call your "working product".

Next, clean your pad after each use if you're having issues. Use a nylon brush. We sell a great nylon brush called a Pad Conditioning Brush but if you don't have one a stiff bristle toothbrush will work.

Anytime you're doing heavy correction work, which sounds like what you're doing, you're going to have two things building up on the face of the pad,

Spent product - i.e. used up product.

Removed paint - You are abrading and removing paint and it builds up on the face of the pad.


I'd give the above a try if you haven't already. I'm one of the guys that have posted how well this product works and the awesome results I've been able to get with it and that is my experience.

That said, people are different, it's possible the same products that work great for me won't work for everyone.


One more thing, for heavy correction work use a more aggressive pad. Try a foam cutting pad or a purple foamed wool pad.


More aggressive pads won't always leave as nice of a finish but that's where the polishing step comes in...


Hope this helps...


:)
 
cleanmycorolla said:
Uber compound is pretty awesome. Shrink your work area go 12x12.
Click to expand...


That is a great idea for paint in really bad shape and when working in warm environments as the larger the area the easier it is for product on one section of paint to dry while you're off on the corner of the section you're working buffing on the paint.

When you work a smaller section your pad is continually keeping the product on the surface liquefied instead of drying on you.

It's also GREAT advice for tools like the Porter Cable, Meguiar's, Griot's and Rupes polishers since they are not gear driven, forced rotating, forced oscillation and thus don't have the power of the Flex 3401.

That all said, one of the features of the Flex 3401 is because of it's power you CAN work larger sections at one time. But do take into consideration the condition of the paint and the temperature as these two things can mean working a smaller section.

I talk about that in this article,

How To Use The Flex 3401

Here you can see water spotting and general staining and oxidation of the paint. Because the Flex 3401 is a gear-driven, forced rotation polisher it offers a lot of power and for this reason I'm able to buff out this large section at one time.

Flex3401BeforeAfter001.jpg




Here I've turned the polisher on and spread my working product evenly over the entire surface I'm going to work.
Flex3401BeforeAfter005.jpg



I work the section using overlapping passes and a crosshatch pattern...
Flex3401BeforeAfter006.jpg




The above is just a portion of the article...


I also explain this in my new how-to book dedicated to the Flex 3401


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I agree with Mike on this...

I normally go right to the 6 speed setting for most compounds and polishes with the Flex 3401 and foam pads and while it does work good after reading how Mike uses lower speed settings I broke myself of my high speed habit and found that at least with this compound the 4-5 works as good and better.

Next... this compound is concentrated, that is it has a high content of abrasives and this means you really need to under use it, not over use it.

When you over use it you're going to see exactly what you're seeing, dusting, pilling and a lot of product on the surface that can be hard to wipe off.

Prime your pad and then use three small drops of what I call your "working product".

Next, clean your pad after each use if you're having issues. Use a nylon brush. We sell a great nylon brush called a Pad Conditioning Brush but if you don't have one a stiff bristle toothbrush will work.

Anytime you're doing heavy correction work, which sounds like what you're doing, you're going to have two things building up on the face of the pad,

Spent product - i.e. used up product.

Removed paint - You are abrading and removing paint and it builds up on the face of the pad.


I'd give the above a try if you haven't already. I'm one of the guys that have posted how well this product works and the awesome results I've been able to get with it and that is my experience.

That said, people are different, it's possible the same products that work great for me won't work for everyone.


One more thing, for heavy correction work use a more aggressive pad. Try a foam cutting pad or a purple foamed wool pad.


More aggressive pads won't always leave as nice of a finish but that's where the polishing step comes in...


Hope this helps...


:)
Click to expand...

Beautiful explanation Mike. Hopefully the OP can achieve desired results.
 
smack said:
Beautiful explanation Mike. Hopefully the OP can achieve desired results.
Click to expand...


Sometimes I wish I could use the Star Trek Transporter to beam myself over to a forum member's garage just to see if there's anything I could do to help out...



Here's my review of this compound and by chance I used the Flex 3401 with a 6.5" White Hybrid Pad.


Review: Wolfgang Uber Compound

1995_BMW_325i_010.jpg




And I noticed pilling when I used too much product and too high a speed.



Pilling = Excess product turning into what looks like small pills like in medicine pills.


After some initial buffing, I remember what Mike aka smack had said about using a lower speed with the Flex 3401 with this compound and so I tried that and like it a lot better than running the polisher full out...



Three small drops on a pad already primed with Wolfgang Uber Compound

1995_BMW_325i_013.jpg




Here's the results after buffing the section twice. Once to cut it with firm pressure on the 5.0 Speed Setting. A second time after cleaning the pad, applying fresh product and rebuffing on the 4.0 Setting.
1995_BMW_325i_014.jpg



:)
 
"Next... this compound is concentrated, that is it has a high content of abrasives and this means you really need to under use it, not over use it.

When you over use it you're going to see exactly what you're seeing, dusting, pilling and a lot of product on the surface that can be hard to wipe off."

I definitely found the above to be true. When I first used the compound i was having a lot of issues with dusting due to overuse of the product. It looked like M105 it dusted so much. It was extremely frustrating seeing the great reviews and results others were obtaining. However, when I cut back on the amount of product, I got great results and it was a breeze to remove. My process that seemed to work well for me was to spray the 5.5" Cyan bad with Blackfire Pad Rejuvenator, then apply three small dime sized drops of product, then I worked it at a speed of 5 to 5.5 on the griots garage. After each section I would clean the pad on the fly with a terry cloth, and switch pads after every two to three sections. Seemed to work well.
 
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