Not so happy with Mark2 upgrade

When I'm ready to step up to rupes I'm thinking an es unit will be the better choice . Imo 100 bucks more for a unit that can only be run at half speed is pointless imo.

Would be such a mistake.

The Mk 2 is significantly more powerful than the original machine. You just need to use the machine correctly - with the correct products and pads. You need to use the correct technique (very little downward pressure) with the correct supplied backing plate - and the machine will correct paint beautifully with no heat.

The MkII can spin through curves the original machine couldn't. You simply bump up the speed, as Dylan mentioned.

It's so funny to me. People complained the legacy machines weren't powerful enough. So Rupes ups the power - and people now say the tool is too powerful.

If your compelled to cobble together your own unique polishing system of various pads and various polishes; along with sticking washers behind the backing plate - maybe just buy a different machine.

Rupes made it so simple - but a lot of people like making it more complicated.
 
The point isn't that it can ONLY be run at half speed, but that it gives you a wider range of speeds to choose from. If you are running a polisher wide open and need more power what do you do? Its not like the dial on any of these goes to 7.

You do the general polishing in the mid range, then increase the speed when you encounter curves or bodylines that would otherwise slow/stop pad rotation. Just like your car - you don't drive everywhere with the gas pedal to the floor do you? You run somewhere less than 100% throttle to drive around, but if you need to get to highway speed, pass a slow moving vehicle, etc you push the accelerator to the floor.

That being said, if the ES has enough power for you then go with it - we still sell TONS of the ES model for those looking to save the $100 and don't find that they need the extra power.

I think you are missing the point entirelly here.

The original poster mentioned that running at lower speed like 3 did not allow the tool to work on curved surfaces, and that despite the fact it has 30% more power, it would still stall unless you increased the speed.

As for using in at speed 3 all the time. If you have to do that you are reducing the correction ability and thus will take MORE time to complete the task. If I can use a Mark 1 at speed 4.5 but have to use a Mark II at speed 3, it's actually a LESS effective tool overall. So it's not an upgrade, quite the contrary.

I agree with you on the hook and loop interface, incompatible pads will have issues, I believe that is what is happening with the B&S pads on the Rupes 21. There is no way that the friction on a polishing pad is causing enough heat to have them fly away from the backing plate. So maybe Rupes should publish a list of compatible pads. I know they would prefer we buy their pads, but most of us already have hundreds of dollars invested in douzens of pads so it would be nice to know which ones we can use safely.
 
I think you are missing the point entirelly here.

The original poster mentioned that running at lower speed like 3 did not allow the tool to work on curved surfaces, and that despite the fact it has 30% more power, it would still stall unless you increased the speed.

As for using in at speed 3 all the time. If you have to do that you are reducing the correction ability and thus will take MORE time to complete the task. If I can use a Mark 1 at speed 4.5 but have to use a Mark II at speed 3, it's actually a LESS effective tool overall. So it's not an upgrade, quite the contrary.

I agree with you on the hook and loop interface, incompatible pads will have issues, I believe that is what is happening with the B&S pads on the Rupes 21. There is no way that the friction on a polishing pad is causing enough heat to have them fly away from the backing plate. So maybe Rupes should publish a list of compatible pads. I know they would prefer we buy their pads, but most of us already have hundreds of dollars invested in douzens of pads so it would be nice to know which ones we can use safely.

Or maybe people should use the "Rupes Sytem" as it was designed to be used around their products.
 
Would be such a mistake.

The Mk 2 is significantly more powerful than the original machine. You just need to use the machine correctly - with the correct products and pads. You need to use the correct technique (very little downward pressure) with the correct supplied backing plate - and the machine will correct paint beautifully with no heat.

The MkII can spin through curves the original machine couldn't. You simply bump up the speed, as Dylan mentioned.

It's so funny to me. People complained the legacy machines weren't powerful enough. So Rupes ups the power - and people now say the tool is too powerful.

If your compelled to cobble together your own unique polishing system of various pads and various polishes; along with sticking washers behind the backing plate - maybe just buy a different machine.

Rupes made it so simple - but a lot of people like making it more complicated.

Darn right! Thanks for posting that. Use it as it was designed to be used as a system or quit the whining.
 
Or maybe people should use the "Rupes Sytem" as it was designed to be used around their products.

Probably should, but that's an unrealistic idea.

I remember Todd saying on Jimbo's podcast that it makes it very difficult to troubleshoot when assessing issues using other companies pads and products.
 
I think you are missing the point entirelly here.

The original poster mentioned that running at lower speed like 3 did not allow the tool to work on curved surfaces, and that despite the fact it has 30% more power, it would still stall unless you increased the speed.

As for using in at speed 3 all the time. If you have to do that you are reducing the correction ability and thus will take MORE time to complete the task. If I can use a Mark 1 at speed 4.5 but have to use a Mark II at speed 3, it's actually a LESS effective tool overall.
My thoughts exactly

Or maybe people should use the "Rupes Sytem" as it was designed to be used around their products.


Darn right! Thanks for posting that. Use it as it was designed to be used as a system or quit the whining.

Your right I should start looking at other large throw da polishers . I like using a system but I don't like being forced into a system .the other large throw polishers are not sensitive like this. I was dead set on the rupes ,partly because the were the innovators and deserve the cash for their hard work .I was even open to using their system just don't like being forced to use it exclusively . I may still by a legacy tool ,I never heard of these problems till the mark 2 came out .
 
Or maybe people should use the "Rupes Sytem" as it was designed to be used around their products.

So you think everyone should throw away all their pads and products and simply buy Rupes ones. Ok... that is one way to look at it.
 
I think you are missing the point entirelly here.

The original poster mentioned that running at lower speed like 3 did not allow the tool to work on curved surfaces, and that despite the fact it has 30% more power, it would still stall unless you increased the speed.

I'd actually challenge that statement... the Mark II at setting 3 features more torque than the ES tools did at setting 6. They are exceedingly hard to stall, even at lower speeds, but even if they did its as simple as moving the dial up a notch or 2 with your thumb. Don't even need to stop polishing to do it.

As for using in at speed 3 all the time. If you have to do that you are reducing the correction ability and thus will take MORE time to complete the task. If I can use a Mark 1 at speed 4.5 but have to use a Mark II at speed 3, it's actually a LESS effective tool overall. So it's not an upgrade, quite the contrary.

Here again you're making an assumption of correcting power based only on speed settings. A Mark II tool at setting 3 or 4 will correct as fast, if not faster than the previous generation. It is very much an upgrade - it performs comparably to the previous tool at a lower speed setting, opening up the possibility for limited use of the tool at full speed in situations that dictate it. Unlike the previous generation when a pad stalled you had no way to compensate other than technique - like I said earlier "the dial doesn't go to 7".

Have you used both the ES and Mark II tools yet or are you assuming some of the things about speeds as they relate to numbers on the dial?

I agree with you on the hook and loop interface, incompatible pads will have issues, I believe that is what is happening with the B&S pads on the Rupes 21. There is no way that the friction on a polishing pad is causing enough heat to have them fly away from the backing plate. So maybe Rupes should publish a list of compatible pads. I know they would prefer we buy their pads, but most of us already have hundreds of dollars invested in dozens of pads so it would be nice to know which ones we can use safely.

Chances are you're never going to see us publish a list validating other peoples pads... the responsibility to validate compatibility would fall to the pad manufactures. We make our own pads and know them to be compatible.
 
So you think everyone should throw away all their pads and products and simply buy Rupes ones. Ok... that is one way to look at it.

No that's not what I think. I have three Rupes tools and have never used their polishes. But I don't complain about the results with this and and that product combo doing this or that. I have experimented on my own and lived with the results. if I blew out a pad here or there that's my problem.

I also own a GG21 and have their pads and products and I've used many other combinations with this machine too. I've had excellent results too, but I've also had some issues. Again, I didn't come on the forum and complain about why the Boss system has issues with other pads or products.
 
My thoughts exactly






Your right I should start looking at other large throw da polishers . I like using a system but I don't like being forced into a system .the other large throw polishers are not sensitive like this. I was dead set on the rupes ,partly because the were the innovators and deserve the cash for their hard work .I was even open to using their system just don't like being forced to use it exclusively . I may still by a legacy tool ,I never heard of these problems till the mark 2 came out .

I have successfully used my Rupes Polishers with many products and pads over the past few years. I have some Rupes pads too. I can pretty much guarantee you it has nothing to do with the machines (s) it's the person pulling the trigger. You can burn up pads and dust product with any tool if used incorrectly. That would apply to the Flex Line, PC, GG6 GG15/21 etc. It's all bout learning how to correctly use the machines and finding a product pad combo that works for you. But if you don't use the machine correctly the other two are a moot point. You'll burn up product and blow out pads.

I very rarely apply any pressure with my Rupes machines, the idea is to let the machine do it's job. Not too mention the more pressure, the more aggression the more clear coat is being removed. I prefer to take the least aggressive approach for what ever job I'm doing.
 
I have successfully used my Rupes Polishers with many products and pads over the past few years. I have some Rupes pads too. I can pretty much guarantee you it has nothing to do with the machines (s) it's the person pulling the trigger. You can burn up pads and dust product with any tool if used incorrectly. That would apply to the Flex Line, PC, GG6 GG15/21 etc. It's all bout learning how to correctly use the machines and finding a product pad combo that works for you. But if you don't use the machine correctly the other two are a moot point. You'll burn up product and blow out pads.

I very rarely apply any pressure with my Rupes machines, the idea is to let the machine do it's job. Not too mention the more pressure, the more aggression the more clear coat is being removed. I prefer to take the least aggressive approach for what ever job I'm doing.

I beg to differ. The Mark2 makes pads fall apart at the hook and loop with minimal to no pressure on slow speeds. I know what I'm doing, and never had this issue with any other machine.
 
I beg to differ. The Mark2 makes pads fall apart at the hook and loop with minimal to no pressure on slow speeds. I know what I'm doing, and never had this issue with any other machine.

Which brands pads?
 
I'm baffled at everyone having problems with the rupes mkii. The only issue I've had was with the blue rupes pad. I've used many other pads with compounds and never had issues
 
I'm baffled at everyone having problems with the rupes mkii. The only issue I've had was with the blue rupes pad. I've used many other pads with compounds and never had issues

What's wrong with the blue pads?
 
I have successfully used my Rupes Polishers with many products and pads over the past few years. I have some Rupes pads too. I can pretty much guarantee you it has nothing to do with the machines (s) it's the person pulling the trigger. You can burn up pads and dust product with any tool if used incorrectly. That would apply to the Flex Line, PC, GG6 GG15/21 etc. It's all bout learning how to correctly use the machines and finding a product pad combo that works for you. But if you don't use the machine correctly the other two are a moot point. You'll burn up product and blow out pads.

I very rarely apply any pressure with my Rupes machines, the idea is to let the machine do it's job. Not too mention the more pressure, the more aggression the more clear coat is being removed. I prefer to take the least aggressive approach for what ever job I'm doing.

But your not using a Mark 2 unit are u . I suspect u might feel different if u started using your current product with a Mark 2 and started burning up pads .


I think its not the power of the mark 2 that's the problem . I think its the new hook and loop . I suspect the new and improved design isn't so great
 
I never used a standard rupes 21. My go to had always been a rotary and a pc. I jumped straight into the markii 21. I suspect that perhaps the people having issues may be applying way to much pressure. I know with pc stile d/a s it's best to run at speed 6 with some added pressure. You don't need to add pressure at all with the markii. I also like that I don't need to run the markii beyond speed 5. I get most of my correction done between speed 3-5 in good amount of time.
 
I think its not the power of the mark 2 that's the problem . I think its the new hook and loop . I suspect the new and improved design isn't so great

Interesting point, would like to hear Todd and Dylan's thoughts on your idea.
 
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