Not sure about Duragloss #501?

Just to clarify that you can use DG 501 on cars' clear coats.

I got this email reply from DG, and I quote "Thank you for your inquiry. 501 contains a small amount of abrasives which is self diminishing and will not harm or scratch any painted surface and is clear coat safe. Jerry, Technical Support"

I love DuraGloss products, they make outstanding products....no hype and dirt cheap.
 
Excellent write up Richard!!! 9 months protection WOW!!! Got a project car that I'm doing half with the DG combo, then the other half with the Very Expensive Sealant & Pure Nuba. We will see. Again thanks for the post & Great to hear from MR. DG himself Richy!!!:xyxthumbs:
 
Ok so I finally applied my DG today. On a dark green camaro, used 4:1 601/501 then 601/105. Simply applied it by hand using Richy's instructions. Looks excellent so far. I'm letting it sit overnight before waxing since I'm not too sure on how long to let it cure, I figured better to let it sit too long than not long enough. Tomorrow I'll lay on a coat of my favorite...Collinite 915!
 
^^^ I'm assuming you used 4 parts 501 and 1 part 601 correct?

if so, Jerry at Duragloss told me to wait 2 hours between the 501 and the 105 combo's and atleast 12 hours before i applied Collinite 845...
 
Correct, I used 1 part 601 to 4 parts 501. Then 1 pt 601 to 4 pt 105. I waited about an hour between those two. According to duraglosses formula of humidity divided by temp times 60 i should only need an hour to cure before wax, but ive seen many people say 12 hours so i figures it wouldnt hurt to wait the 12 hours.
 
151Racing said:
Correct, I used 1 part 601 to 4 parts 501. Then 1 pt 601 to 4 pt 105. I waited about an hour between those two. According to duraglosses formula of humidity divided by temp times 60 i should only need an hour to cure before wax, but ive seen many people say 12 hours so i figures it wouldnt hurt to wait the 12 hours.
Click to expand...

If you mix them, you can immediately top it after removing the haze. Here's a job I just did using only DG 501 on the paint:


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/49629-2011-sierra-power-dg-501-a.html
 
Yea, like I said, I just wasnt 100% sure and figured waiting a longer period of time wouldnt hurt. I got the Collinites 915 on and boy does it look and feel great. In the past I would just clay then use a Mothers polish before my Collinite, but the duragloss makes it "oh so sweet"! The DG def took out some minor swirling I had and gave it a great shine before I even waxed it. I know you dont have to but I love to top any dark paint with Collinite 915. Its truly the best of the best of the old school type Carnuba waxes!
 
nope, simply did it all by hand. I wasnt trying for any type of correction, just shine and protection.
 
I have a 2000 Sienna white. It has been garaged kept at home but at work it sits in the hot FL sun. I have washed it on a regular basis, clayed it a few times and wax it with Eagle One Nano wax every other wash. I am sure there are a few swirls/scratches and the paint is oxidized.

I was wondering that after I wash and clay the car, should I use M80 Speed Glaze followed by some Duragloss 501? I guess I am trying to figure out the differences between the two. Is D501 more or less abrasive than M80? Does it make sense to use both or should I use one or the other?

This car is a single stage paint so I am going to follow Mike's tutorial on removing oxidation from a single stage paint. In this he uses M80 followed by Wolfgang Sealant. Unfortunately, this time of year in FL it's impossible to guarantee enough time for the Wolfgang to set without being affected by water. So I was thinking M 80, followed by DG501 then DG105, followed by some carnuba wax probably Colly 845. How's that sound?

Sorry I am new to this and will be ordering from AG today or tomorrow. I was going to get the PC7424 along with orange, white, and blue pads. Is there anything thing else that's a must have? I don't have a problem buying stuff that I will use but don't want to store tons of product if not necessary.

After the van. I have a White Tundra to do that has little to no swirls and some oxidation. This is an outside truck as it will not fit in my garage. It does get shade by a parking garage while at work though.

As a side note, everything I want to do is for personal use. I won't be doing any cars but my own. Therefore shelf life of products are important.

Thanks
-Michael
 
The Easy Life said:
I have a 2000 Sienna white. It has been garaged kept at home but at work it sits in the hot FL sun. I have washed it on a regular basis, clayed it a few times and wax it with Eagle One Nano wax every other wash. I am sure there are a few swirls/scratches and the paint is oxidized.

I was wondering that after I wash and clay the car, should I use M80 Speed Glaze followed by some Duragloss 501? I guess I am trying to figure out the differences between the two. Is D501 more or less abrasive than M80? Does it make sense to use both or should I use one or the other?

This car is a single stage paint so I am going to follow Mike's tutorial on removing oxidation from a single stage paint. In this he uses M80 followed by Wolfgang Sealant. Unfortunately, this time of year in FL it's impossible to guarantee enough time for the Wolfgang to set without being affected by water. So I was thinking M 80, followed by DG501 then DG105, followed by some carnuba wax probably Colly 845. How's that sound?

Sorry I am new to this and will be ordering from AG today or tomorrow. I was going to get the PC7424 along with orange, white, and blue pads. Is there anything thing else that's a must have? I don't have a problem buying stuff that I will use but don't want to store tons of product if not necessary.

After the van. I have a White Tundra to do that has little to no swirls and some oxidation. This is an outside truck as it will not fit in my garage. It does get shade by a parking garage while at work though.

As a side note, everything I want to do is for personal use. I won't be doing any cars but my own. Therefore shelf life of products are important.

Thanks
-Michael
Click to expand...
Don't forget 5.5" pads and a 5" backplate
 
Finally ordered a few gallons of DG products! Can't wait to try them out!!
Plan is to hit my newly swirl free arctic white trans am with some 501 then apply 601 then finally 111 followed by AW. Should be a good one!
 
The Easy Life said:
I have a 2000 Sienna white. It has been garaged kept at home but at work it sits in the hot FL sun. I have washed it on a regular basis, clayed it a few times and wax it with Eagle One Nano wax every other wash. I am sure there are a few swirls/scratches and the paint is oxidized.

I was wondering that after I wash and clay the car, should I use M80 Speed Glaze followed by some Duragloss 501? I guess I am trying to figure out the differences between the two. Is D501 more or less abrasive than M80? Does it make sense to use both or should I use one or the other?

This car is a single stage paint so I am going to follow Mike's tutorial on removing oxidation from a single stage paint. In this he uses M80 followed by Wolfgang Sealant. Unfortunately, this time of year in FL it's impossible to guarantee enough time for the Wolfgang to set without being affected by water. So I was thinking M 80, followed by DG501 then DG105, followed by some carnuba wax probably Colly 845. How's that sound?

Sorry I am new to this and will be ordering from AG today or tomorrow. I was going to get the PC7424 along with orange, white, and blue pads. Is there anything thing else that's a must have? I don't have a problem buying stuff that I will use but don't want to store tons of product if not necessary.

After the van. I have a White Tundra to do that has little to no swirls and some oxidation. This is an outside truck as it will not fit in my garage. It does get shade by a parking garage while at work though.

As a side note, everything I want to do is for personal use. I won't be doing any cars but my own. Therefore shelf life of products are important.

Thanks
-Michael
Click to expand...
Mike, I've never used the M80, but DG 501 has amazing cleaning ability, so I'd use that with a white pad on your DA and top it with 105 and then Colli. You will be absolutely amazed by that trio, I guarantee it!! If you wanted anything to precede 501, you might consider D300 or something similar. Depends on how much time you want to invest.
 
TimmyG said:
Finally ordered a few gallons of DG products! Can't wait to try them out!!
Plan is to hit my newly swirl free arctic white trans am with some 501 then apply 601 then finally 111 followed by AW. Should be a good one!
Click to expand...
Post up the pics when you do!
 
richy said:
Mike, I've never used the M80, but DG 501 has amazing cleaning ability, so I'd use that with a white pad on your DA and top it with 105 and then Colli. You will be absolutely amazed by that trio, I guarantee it!! If you wanted anything to precede 501, you might consider D300 or something similar. Depends on how much time you want to invest.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the comment. I didn't know if using both was overkill. I guess I can forget the M80 ( although Mike used it in his video) and just go with the D501. Or get both, try it on different panels and see if there is a difference in adding the extra step. I can save a ton of time by skipping a step as long as result is there. Both cars have a lot of area. It's not like they are Minis or Miatas. Lots of real estate to cover - over and over.

Anyone else know if M80 is stronger, weaker, or indifferent to Duragloss 501, who has possibly used both products?

Thanks
-Michael
 
The Easy Life said:
I appreciate the comment. I didn't know if using both was overkill. I guess I can forget the M80 ( although Mike used it in his video) and just go with the D501. Or get both, try it on different panels and see if there is a difference in adding the extra step. I can save a ton of time by skipping a step as long as result is there. Both cars have a lot of area. It's not like they are Minis or Miatas. Lots of real estate to cover - over and over.

Anyone else know if M80 is stronger, weaker, or indifferent to Duragloss 501, who has possibly used both products?

Thanks
-Michael
Click to expand...

This will answer your question:

Autogeek Swirl Removers & Compounds Comparison Chart

Do a test spot with both and see which comes out better, but I probably would use either or not both.
 
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