Nothing Seems to work

Just to be sure, your not re-introducing swirls with cheap towels are you using quality microfiber towels?
 
I didnt see what speed you are using the PC at? I recommend trying 6 to see if that helps and applying moderate pressure with slow hand speed, 6-8 passes. GL
 
Get you two CG's orange hex pads to use with 105.
Get you two CG's white pads to use with 205.

If you can buy more then it's even better but you could get by with the four.

I find speed six is too high even for the PC, I find speed 5 works best, just take your time and don't rush the process.
Just make sure you get your test spot flawless before moving on, that way no surprises in the end when your done.

Again, slow arm speed and make sure to use a cris cross pattern.
Up and down and then side to side.
Make about four passes then inspect.
 
Success said:
WGTSR 3.0 should remove your swirls. Try this: cut test spot down to 18"x18" or 12x12. Use SLOWER arm movement than you THINK you need. Next you said you arent pressing too hard. You need some downward pressure with the PC. Mark your backing plate so you can see it spin. Now push hard on your paint until it stops rotating. Ease up slowly until it a rotating again. That is how much pressure you need. Now combine that with your SLOWER. Than you THINK arm movement and you should be fine. Also cut back on your polish. You don't need that much at all after the pad is primed.
After the swirls are gone you might see some micro marring (smaller, finer swirls) when you look with a light. You will need to follow up with a finer polish.

Hope this helps. I felt like you when I first tried polishing. Keep at it.
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Good post to follow. The other advice is good as well. If you're near me I'd be happy to help you out. I had the same problems with the PC. They work but it takes soooo long compared to a Flex. I had better luck cutting with a MF pad using the PC.
 
Well some parts of my car like hood and tail gate were repainted. And the shop I took it too, tried to buff everything out but there are still a ton of swirls and peel. Then I think I messed it up more with my dual action. I can now see buffer trails in the hood. So I took it back and they didn't even have a sun gun nor did they use mirco fiber towels. I am in dire need of help because my car pain looks awful.
 
Michigan. I keep trying with swirl remover, but when I get a closer look I see a ton of mirco swirls.
 
A wool pad is the most aggressive pad I have ever used. Along with some 105 and a spray bottle to keep it working will help. Lower the speed to make the 105 work longer. U can also mix in 205 for a few dabs as well. Just do a little at a time and wipe it down often to check ur work. Once u get that down u should be able to move to 205 and a foam polishing pad. Beware, if you stand in one spot with that wool pad it will burn so remember to just do a small area and wipe it as often as u can. If u cant find 105 available Ultimate compound will work as well.
 
Yeah, but I'm using an dual action buffer. I tried using an orange foam but somehow I am putting more swirls in it! I put 4 dabs of wolf gang total swirl remover on the pad and work in small sections over lapping by 50% each time. Somehow when looked at close, I can see more finer scratches in the paint. I don't think the pc 7424 is as safe as they say..
 
Go over it with a white pad and your finishing polish. You might be seeing micro marring. You need to refine that away via a final polish.
 
ZachGrzelak said:
Yeah, but I'm using an dual action buffer. I tried using an orange foam but somehow I am putting more swirls in it! I put 4 dabs of wolf gang total swirl remover on the pad and work in small sections over lapping by 50% each time. Somehow when looked at close, I can see more finer scratches in the paint. I don't think the pc 7424 is as safe as they say..
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Then you have to change the pad to a lighter polishing pad and do it again with a polish like 205 or Menz 4000,4500
 
Success said:
WGTSR 3.0 should remove your swirls. Try this: cut test spot down to 18"x18" or 12x12. Use SLOWER arm movement than you THINK you need. Next you said you arent pressing too hard. You need some downward pressure with the PC. Mark your backing plate so you can see it spin. Now push hard on your paint until it stops rotating. Ease up slowly until it a rotating again. That is how much pressure you need. Now combine that with your SLOWER. Than you THINK arm movement and you should be fine. Also cut back on your polish. You don't need that much at all after the pad is primed.
After the swirls are gone you might see some micro marring (smaller, finer swirls) when you look with a light. You will need to follow up with a finer polish.

Hope this helps. I felt like you when I first tried polishing. Keep at it.
Click to expand...

Some good info in this. ;)

Don't work outside your shoulders.

45 minutes on a 2'x2' area is just too long btw.

Do not use that Megs heavy cut cleaner, looks like it's #4 perhaps? Can't tell.

Also you'll need SEVERAL pads for compounding. The hood you'll need 2, roof 2, fenders and doors 1 each, front/back bumpers 1 will do both. Basically if you don't have AT LEAST 4 and can clean them in between grab some more. Get to the polishing stage you can get away with 3 to 4-ish for the whole car.

Use enough downward pressure, on say speed 5~5.5 to stop the pad from rotating then back off just enough to have it rotating once per second. Move in 50% overlapping passes, about 1" per second, no faster than 2" per second. You should be able to do an area, that is inside your shoulder width, in less than 5 minutes EASY.

Look up Mike Phillips pad priming method and start from there. Also make sure you are 'cleaning on the fly'. Once you've go those down you should be fine.

WHAT EVER YOU DO don't just go throwing maximum cut compound on there. Use the WG Swirl Remover you have, but prime the pad first.

Finally, are you sure you're putting swirls in there or is it micro marring, perhaps from dry buffing even. :dunno: Although.... that can and WILL scratch your paint, especially if you didn't prime the pad well, and are not keeping it surgically clean.
 
ZachGrzelak said:
Yeah, but I'm using an dual action buffer. I tried using an orange foam but somehow I am putting more swirls in it! I put 4 dabs of wolf gang total swirl remover on the pad and work in small sections over lapping by 50% each time. Somehow when looked at close, I can see more finer scratches in the paint. I don't think the pc 7424 is as safe as they say..
Click to expand...

Your paint is to soft for what you are trying to do with your product and pad combo. You need to bump up your pad to a more aggressive one like lake country yellow to knock out the deeper scratches then go on a white pad or possibly a black finishing pad and a fine polish.
 
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