NOTHING will protect this Accord!

4

4bidden

New member
Joined
May 26, 2014
Messages
89
Reaction score
0
Alright guys, I'm really scratching my head here and need some input.

My fiance purchased a pearl white 2014 Accord EX-L V6 new off the lot about a year ago. She loves it and loves that I told her i'd take care of it for her. Sadly, however, I appear incompetent at doing my job!

To make a long story short I have tried various products - BFWD, BFMS, OC 2.0 (test on hood), and NONE have lasted more than one wash on the car. Before each product I fully decontaminated with Iron X and/or clay (this white shows TONS of iron!) and used Eraser before application. Sometimes with additional wash downs in between those steps. So I don't think the issue is in the prep.

The car is stored outside 24/7, so I fully expect to not have as much longevity for the products, but more than a week or so would be nice. It's almost like the clear coat just resists anything that is put on it. Even the next wash after applying a protectant there is a lot of hard washing I have to do to get all of the various crap off of the surface and most all beading/sheeting is gone. And that's the very next wash!

What should I try next? Should I go over the entire car with a polish like SF4000 and then Eraser and try again with BFWD?

Side note: I also maintain my Tundra and do not have this same situation at all. The BFWD lasts for a length of time that is appropriate and acceptable for being stored outside 24/7.
 
4bidden said:
Alright guys, I'm really scratching my head here and need some input.

My fiance purchased a pearl white 2014 Accord EX-L V6 new off the lot about a year ago. She loves it and loves that I told her i'd take care of it for her. Sadly, however, I appear incompetent at doing my job!

To make a long story short I have tried various products - BFWD, BFMS, OC 2.0 (test on hood), and NONE have lasted more than one wash on the car. Before each product I fully decontaminated with Iron X and/or clay (this white shows TONS of iron!) and used Eraser before application. Sometimes with additional wash downs in between those steps. So I don't think the issue is in the prep.

The car is stored outside 24/7, so I fully expect to not have as much longevity for the products, but more than a week or so would be nice. It's almost like the clear coat just resists anything that is put on it. Even the next wash after applying a protectant there is a lot of hard washing I have to do to get all of the various crap off of the surface and most all beading/sheeting is gone. And that's the very next wash!

What should I try next? Should I go over the entire car with a polish like SF4000 and then Eraser and try again with BFWD?

Side note: I also maintain my Tundra and do not have this same situation at all. The BFWD lasts for a length of time that is appropriate and acceptable for being stored outside 24/7.
Click to expand...

Maybe it is time for you trying to coat the car. Pinnacle Black Label or CQuartzUK, perhaps? Yes, SF4000 on a black foam before and Eraser.There is also Duragloss Enviroshield, but PBL lasts longer, imho.
 
Since I already tried out OC2.0 on the hood with pretty much the same results I'm not sure I want to throw money at more products in hope of them working. There's no good reason why these other products are not staying on the car.
 
Just a thought here, but some of these Honda dealers will put some sort of paint protection or film on the car. Not 100% sure what they're using. Is it possible that it has something like that on there and that's why it's not sticking? Did you buy it new? Have you done a complete wash with dawn or whatever your choice is to strip everything off the clear?

I just picked up my white '15 exl v6 sedan a week or so ago, so I haven't had time to mess with it yet or I'd help you out with my experiences. Mine is garaged at home and at work so it's a little different too
 
ousooner2 said:
Just a thought here, but some of these Honda dealers will put some sort of paint protection or film on the car. Not 100% sure what they're using. Is it possible that it has something like that on there and that's why it's not sticking? Did you buy it new? Have you done a complete wash with dawn or whatever your choice is to strip everything off the clear?
Click to expand...

This is one of the only things that I can think of ... but whatever possible 'film' may be on it must not be for protection since water sticks to the paint and does not sheet or bead at all. This is why I asked if I should try a light polish before my next attempt. Nothing I can see makes me think theres anything left on the clear, but I'm running out of things to try.
 
ousooner2 said:
What soap are you using?
Click to expand...

This is important to know. A lot of soaps and shampoos have additives that mask beading and sheeting properties of many LSPs. CG Citrus Wash and Gloss is one that comes to mind. Made a week-old application of Powerlock look like it was on its last leg until I rewashed it.
 
My buddies 2013 Honda Accord Coupe is Pearl White (assuming same color) and I put on a sealant on top of a wax. No issues at all. I do not know your entire situation but maybe a sealant and a wax. I was going to say a coating but it appears you have not had great luck.

I hope this is some help
 
Kamakaz1961 said:
My buddies 2013 Honda Accord Coupe is Pearl White (assuming same color) and I put on a sealant on top of a wax. No issues at all. I do not know your entire situation but maybe a sealant and a wax. I was going to say a coating but it appears you have not had great luck.



I hope this is some help
Click to expand...


Had that Accord ever been polished at all? What region are you in?
 
I live in Southern California. The weather here is great. The typical two-step compound and polish. I use Menzerna FG400 and SF4500. Honda paint is soft. It is really easy to work on.
 
My guess is there is something still on the paint keeping your applications from sticking.

I can't think of anything else that would keep all those different products from holding up.
 
Kamakaz1961 said:
I live in Southern California. The weather here is great. The typical two-step compound and polish. I use Menzerna FG400 and SF4500. Honda paint is soft. It is really easy to work on.
Click to expand...


I'm right by you in Newport Beach.

I definitely don't see any need to use FG400 on this car, but I am considering going over it with SF4000 depending on what others have to say.
 
If it were me. I would just do a 2-Step. The compounding will remove whatever stuff from the Honda Dealer had on (IMO) and then follow up with a polish. I would use a Lake Country Orange Pad with the FG400 (or equivalent) and then a White Pad with SF4500 (I like that better than SF4000) or equivalent.

Then I would apply a sealant and a wax or leave a sealant. I think that should eliminate your problem.

I use a Flex 3401 for the correcting stuff and applying sealant/wax. I will occasionally use my PC7424XP so I do not lose the touch to use it.
 
My dad had a pearl white Acura TL. I protected the paint with Collinite 845 and that lasted 6+ months, in South Florida, and he taking the car to automated car washes. Once a year I would hit it with XMT360, which cleaned and shined the paint some and then top the XMT360 with the 845. Worked just fine. Put 845 on his new Accord.

I have a 2013 Accord Coupe and I have been using Fuzion once or twice a year, with XMT 360 Spray wax, or different quick detailers every other week or so and the protection has lasted and lasted.
 
I think I would do a test spot with the SF 4500...then let's go from there!
 
Duragloss 601 and 105 would do it for you.
Don't let the low cost fool you, it works great per reviews.
It's my go to coating combo now.
Crazy beading, you should get an entire year of protection with the combo.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top