NOTHING will protect this Accord!

You should be getting 6 months out of BFWD. After you clay are you performing the baggie test to make sure all the contaminants are removed? I would definitely polish it with something like M205 then try again. Consider topping BFWD with BF Crystal Seal, which I love on white (it has a "glassy" gloss).

I use DG901 for my regular 2BM and have no problem getting 6 months from BFWD. I use BFWD Rinseless Wash for RW method.

Looks like Setec offered to meet up and help too, so I would take advantage of another forum member's help if you still feel stuck.
 
I would check your prep work. are you using clay and using eraser or something similar after polish , before lsp ? reason I ask is I have had oc 2.0 on one of my rides for over 2.5 years and it is still hanging in there fine. if you meet up with Setec I am sure you can get your issue figured out.
 
Do a test spot with an AIO or SF4000, then use a sealant on the test spot. Monitor it over a couple of weeks, based on your findings you will know whether or not to do the whole car.
 
You say that water just sticks to it right? As if it has nothing on it? Most of my memory of how coatings are to be applied tells me that the car should be polished first before applying a coating. I'd go ahead and get it polished up nicely before trying anything else on it. Then try anything and see how long it lasts.
 
IMO...It's not you, your cars paint, or your prep. Opti-coat 2.0 is a great product, permanent, hard, and durable, but in "most" cases it's a lousy LSP. All you need to do is use a spray on polymer sealant on top of the OC2, like Garry Dean's Juice Boost or Wolfgang Spriz sealant and your GF's car will bead water and shed dirt like crazy. Good luck.
 
4bidden said:
Alright guys, I'm really scratching my head here and need some input.

My fiance purchased a pearl white 2014 Accord EX-L V6 new off the lot about a year ago. She loves it and loves that I told her i'd take care of it for her. Sadly, however, I appear incompetent at doing my job!

To make a long story short I have tried various products - BFWD, BFMS, OC 2.0 (test on hood), and NONE have lasted more than one wash on the car. Before each product I fully decontaminated with Iron X and/or clay (this white shows TONS of iron!) and used Eraser before application. Sometimes with additional wash downs in between those steps. So I don't think the issue is in the prep.

The car is stored outside 24/7, so I fully expect to not have as much longevity for the products, but more than a week or so would be nice. It's almost like the clear coat just resists anything that is put on it. Even the next wash after applying a protectant there is a lot of hard washing I have to do to get all of the various crap off of the surface and most all beading/sheeting is gone. And that's the very next wash!

What should I try next? Should I go over the entire car with a polish like SF4000 and then Eraser and try again with BFWD?

Side note: I also maintain my Tundra and do not have this same situation at all. The BFWD lasts for a length of time that is appropriate and acceptable for being stored outside 24/7.
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I bought my wife a pearl white 2014 MDX. It sits outside 24/7. I put One coat of C1 followed by two coats of EXO. It's doing great! It's only been about six months so far but it shows no signs of weakening.

You do want to use Panel Wipe for your wipe down.
 
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DaveT435 said:
I bought my wife a pearl white 2014 MDX. It sits outside 24/7. I put One coat of C1 followed by two coats of EXO. It's doing great! It's only been about six months so far but it shows no signs of weakening.
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What steps did you take with that new car before coating it? Did you polish it first?
 
4bidden said:
What steps did you take with that new car before coating it? Did you polish it first?
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Even though you weren't talking to me, when I got my 2013 Accord, I first ran over it with Meguiars Ultimate Compound (after a Dawn wash and clay treatment). I went straight to BFWD after that followed by 2 coats of Crystal Seal. Since then only a light polish 2 times per year (M205 or Menz SF4000). I use BFWD+CS in the spring and Coll 845 in the winter as my LSP.
 
4bidden said:
What steps did you take with that new car before coating it? Did you polish it first?
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Yes, it was a new vehicle so I did a light polish with Optimum Hyper Polish. Did a really good wipe down with Panel Wipe. It's doing great. I do know what you mean about some Honda paint not holding product though. I have a neighbor with a TL and I put Opticoat on that. Prep was good...but within a couple months the Opticoat was gone. Actually kind of glad to hear someone else having this problem. I put a couple products on my wife's TL she had before this and they didn't seem to bond. One was Fusion another was Ultima Paint Guard Plus. I put the UPGP on my mother's Camry and it's been almost two years. It need to be done again, but two yeRs vs a month...
 
wdmaccord said:
Even though you weren't talking to me, when I got my 2013 Accord, I first ran over it with Meguiars Ultimate Compound (after a Dawn wash and clay treatment). I went straight to BFWD after that followed by 2 coats of Crystal Seal. Since then only a light polish 2 times per year (M205 or Menz SF4000). I use BFWD+CS in the spring and Coll 845 in the winter as my LSP.
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What is the thought behind something so aggressive on a brand new car? Is there really something on the paint from the factory that you're trying to remove?
 
wdmaccord said:
Even though you weren't talking to me, when I got my 2013 Accord, I first ran over it with Meguiars Ultimate Compound (after a Dawn wash and clay treatment). I went straight to BFWD after that followed by 2 coats of Crystal Seal. Since then only a light polish 2 times per year (M205 or Menz SF4000). I use BFWD+CS in the spring and Coll 845 in the winter as my LSP.
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What did you use for a final wipe down? The only thing I can think of is it's either the wipedown product. I used IPA on the TLs I've been using Panel Wipe ever since.
 
DaveT435 said:
What did you use for a final wipe down? The only thing I can think of is it's either the wipedown product. I used IPA on the TLs I've been using Panel Wipe ever since.
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CarPro Eraser is always used, sometimes multiple times.

I'll try and make time tomorrow to do a test on part of the hood. I'll decon and then do half with SF4000, Eraser, then BFWD.
 
White shoes little marring, but it's definitely there. If you're claying then you're scratching the paint. I have a white TSX and in my garage there's also an MDX and an RLX. I used to have a TL too until I totaled it. So I know Honda/Acura paint.
 
DaveT435 said:
What did you use for a final wipe down? The only thing I can think of is it's either the wipedown product. I used IPA on the TLs I've been using Panel Wipe ever since.
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Actually the first time I did mine, I didn't wipe it down after UC. Just went straight to BFWD. Didn't cause any issues, but now I use 15% IPA between polish and sealant steps.
 
conman1395 said:
White shoes little marring, but it's definitely there. If you're claying then you're scratching the paint. I have a white TSX and in my garage there's also an MDX and an RLX. I used to have a TL too until I totaled it. So I know Honda/Acura paint.
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I agree. I have done a lot of Honda's and yet to clay one without marring it. And I use Pinnacle Ultra Poly which is probably one of the least aggressive clays.

Regardless of the paint system, if I am going to clay, I am going to polish.
 
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