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BeachBill

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Hi, my name is Bill. I have a Mazda MX-6 GT I purchased new in 1988. It has about 180K miles and the body is in good shape considering it's age. Car has been kept clean using a car wash and on a few occasions letting kids in the neighborhood wash and wax it. Normal amount of road rash, oxidation, scratches, etc.

I am retired. My last project for which I had no experience was acid staining my drive way and patio. It took several months and turned out nice (even she who must be obeyed agreed).

My new project is to detail my Mazda: Front to back, top to bottom: Paint, glass, wheels, tires. I have no experience detailing. I have spent about 30 hours learning about detailing. Probably just enough to be dangerous to myself. I found a lot of help at the Refinish Network and special thanks to 93foxcoupe. He also pointed me to this forum.

So far I have purchased a 7" variable speed polisher/sander. It came with 7" hoop and loop backing pad, foam pad, 60 & 240 grit sanding discs, terry towel, polishing bonnet. It has a 5/8" - 11 TPI spindle.

From the recommendations I have received so far, I'm looking at purchasing the following for detailing the paint:
* Doctor ColorChip touch up paint.
* Meguiars Mirror Glaze 105 Ultra-Cut Compound
* Mirror Glaze #205 Ultra Finishing Polish swirl remover.
* Menzerna's PO85RD Polish.
* Collinite insulator wax 845.
* 3" mini buffer kit for use in close places.

I'll be looking at the videos and tutorials. Also, thanks in advance for any advice, opinions or recommendations. With a lot of luck, maybe this project will turn out nice.
 
:welcome: To Autogeek Online Bill!

Start off by giving it a complete washing, rinsing, and drying.

Get some clay and with a nice lubricant clay each panel.

Start on a small section and an orange pad. Don't start with to a too rough combination. Polish a small sections and start slowly.

Read some of Mike Phillips articles then practice what you've learned.
 
Welcome Bill. Go slow with that new rotary until you get the hang of it and be sure to tape up your edges and trim pieces that you don't want to get damaged by the spinning pad. Speaking of pads, what pads do you intend on using?
 
Flash Gordon said:
Welcome Bill

What do you plan on doing with the 60 & 240 grit disks
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Hi Flash, I have no plans for the grit disks. They came with my polisher. Maybe one day I'll have something to sand. If you can think of a good use, please let me know.
 
BobbyG said:
:welcome: To Autogeek Online Bill!

Start off by giving it a complete washing, rinsing, and drying.

Get some clay and with a nice lubricant clay each panel.

Start on a small section and an orange pad. Don't start with to a too rough combination. Polish a small sections and start slowly.

Read some of Mike Phillips articles then practice what you've learned.
Click to expand...
Hi BobbyG, Thanks for your advice. I'm hoping that by using Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound, I will not have to clay the car. Also, in addition to being lazy, I also have the usual problems that accompany a body that is 68 years old. I was thinking that if the liquid compound didn't work, I could purchase some clay and just bite the bullet and hope my body forgives me.

Thanks for your advice...Bill
 
BeachBill said:
Hi BobbyG, I'm hoping that by using Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound, I will not have to clay the car.
Click to expand...
That would be a bad idea especially using a rotary polisher on a car that is in the condition that you described. Reason is that there will surely be bonded contaminates that will become dislodged and get stuck in between the pad and the paint. These contaminates are often times harder than the paint itself and will leave circular scratches behind.

a body that is 68 years old.
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I applaud you for even attempting to do this to your car. At 40 years old my body disagrees with this type of work. I'd suggest just claying and buffing out maybe one or two panels and call it a day then the next time you get after it, clay and buff the panels that you intend on working on that particular day. Being retired I would assume that there will be no real rush to get done.:props:
 
Hey Bill I'm curious, is the rotary polisher that you purchased the Harbor Freight Tools model with the soft yellow pad? If so, that pad might be OK for the M-205 polishing Step but I would suggest getting a white or orange pad for the M-105 cutting step and a red finishing pad for the PO85RD final finishing step.
 
tuscarora dave said:
Welcome Bill. Go slow with that new rotary until you get the hang of it and be sure to tape up your edges and trim pieces that you don't want to get damaged by the spinning pad. Speaking of pads, what pads do you intend on using?
Click to expand...

Hi Tuscarora Dave, Thanks for your advice. I am still trying to decide which pads by brand should be used in each step. Recommendations for each product by manufacturer are:
Step 1
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound use Foam or Wool cutting pad.
Step 2
Meguiars #205 Ultra Finishing Polish use Foam finishing pad.
Step 3
Menzerna's PO85RD Polish use a soft foam finishing pad, like Lake Country’s CCS Gray Finishing Pad or the White Ultra Fine Polishing Pad by The Edge 2000.
Step 4
Collinite insulator wax 845 Seems I need to apply by hand. Seems only a dual action polisher should be use to apply by machine.

I would greatly appreciate your recommendations for pads and products for each step.
Thanks...Bill
 
tuscarora dave said:
That would be a bad idea especially using a rotary polisher on a car that is in the condition that you described. Reason is that there will surely be bonded contaminates that will become dislodged and get stuck in between the pad and the paint. These contaminates are often times harder than the paint itself and will leave circular scratches behind.

I applaud you for even attempting to do this to your car. At 40 years old my body disagrees with this type of work. I'd suggest just claying and buffing out maybe one or two panels and call it a day then the next time you get after it, clay and buff the panels that you intend on working on that particular day. Being retired I would assume that there will be no real rush to get done.:props:
Click to expand...

Clay it is. Thank you so much for the advice and education. I will have to pace myself just as you suggested. Some times that hard to do (I like to press on) and when I don't pace myself, I just have to pay for it. Do you have a clay you recommend?
Thanks...Bill
 
Being retired, you should take a run down to FL to the Detail Show in March and talk them into doing a demo on your vehicle.

I am 70 so I also tape off a small area and take my time...if I get in a rush I'll hire someone and appreciate the work they have done...

I can see the buffer burning the paint...try some 2000 wet sand paper, and put the buffer down...at least run it slow....

Good luck....
 
BeachBill said:
Hi Tuscarora Dave, Thanks for your advice. I am still trying to decide which pads by brand should be used in each step. Recommendations for each product by manufacturer are:
Step 1
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound use Foam or Wool cutting pad.
Step 2
Meguiars #205 Ultra Finishing Polish use Foam finishing pad.
Step 3
Menzerna's PO85RD Polish use a soft foam finishing pad, like Lake Country’s CCS Gray Finishing Pad or the White Ultra Fine Polishing Pad by The Edge 2000.
Step 4
Collinite insulator wax 845 Seems I need to apply by hand. Seems only a dual action polisher should be use to apply by machine.

I would greatly appreciate your recommendations for pads and products for each step.
Thanks...Bill
Click to expand...
I would recommend the 6.5 inch Lake country flat pads.Lake Country Pads
Orange or white foam for M-105 depending on the severity of the scratches/defects,
Gray for the M-205 polishing step
Blue for the PO85RD final finishing step.
OR
These Hydro tech 6.5 inch pads Lake Country Hydro-Tech 6.5 Inch Foam Pads, water-based polish pads, foam buffing pads, hydro tech pads
Cyan for the M-105 cutting step
Tangerine for the M-205 polishing step
Crimson for the PO85RD step.

Really I would probably stick the pad that came with the polisher in a corner somewhere or use it to polish some furniture or something.

For Clay I would recommend a mild to medium grade clay. Will you be purchasing your supplies here at AGO? If so I would recommend this Meguiars Professional Auto Detailing Clay: Detail Clay cleans better than polishes! Clean your car with Meguiars Detailing Clay Bar, Overspray Clay. or Clay Magic Blue from your local Advance Auto Parts.
 
tuscarora dave said:
Hey Bill I'm curious, is the rotary polisher that you purchased the Harbor Freight Tools model with the soft yellow pad? If so, that pad might be OK for the M-205 polishing Step but I would suggest getting a white or orange pad for the M-105 cutting step and a red finishing pad for the PO85RD final finishing step.
Click to expand...

Yes I purchased it from Harbor Freight. Great buy at about $35. I haven't even plugged it in yet. I just could not cost justify the money for a DA to do one car.

I'm sure I'll need to purchase several pads for this job and I would like to purchase them at the same time I purchase the detailing products. Any recommendations for pads, brands and any additional stuff like pad cleaners I may need would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for your help...Bill
 
BeachBill said:
Yes I purchased it from Harbor Freight. Great buy at about $35. I haven't even plugged it in yet. I just could not cost justify the money for a DA to do one car.
Click to expand...
I understand completely but again go slow til you get the hang of the rotary.

I'm sure I'll need to purchase several pads for this job and I would like to purchase them at the same time I purchase the detailing products. Any recommendations for pads, brands and any additional stuff like pad cleaners I may need would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for your help...Bill
Click to expand...
You're welcome Bill, It's my pleasure.

If you didn't catch it, I recommended some pads in reply # 14. I normally use any all purpose cleaner to clean my pads by hand or just throw them in the washer with some Tide or whatever detergent I have at the time. (she who must be obeyed may not like this)

For cleaning pads on the fly I will use a denture brush to brush off the spent M-105, it tends to get crusty on the pad and it will stop cutting when this occurs. It brushes off well with my denture brush. (I don't clean my dentures with the same brush):laughing:

M-205 is a bit on the oily side so I will remove the pad and clean by hand with All purpose cleaner, kneading the cleaner into the pad with my thumbs and then rinse the pad with water and give it a squeeze to get the majority of water out of it. I will center my pad back on the rotary, crank the speed all the way up and run it for about a minute to spin the rest of the water out of the pad before re applying more M-205 and getting back to polishing.

I have never used the PO85RD so I can't give a clue as to it's characteristics.

Something like Meguiars APC+ would be a cheap but effective all purpose cleaner. I have used stuff like Purple Power or Super Clean (available at WalMart) but that stuff will be real hard on your hands so I would recommend the use of gloves if you go that route. I guess gloves would be a great idea regardless though. These detailing chemicals tend to dry your hands out so I'd have some hand lotion handy for when you're done for the day.
 
SATMAN40 said:
Being retired, you should take a run down to FL to the Detail Show in March and talk them into doing a demo on your vehicle.

I am 70 so I also tape off a small area and take my time...if I get in a rush I'll hire someone and appreciate the work they have done...

I can see the buffer burning the paint...try some 2000 wet sand paper, and put the buffer down...at least run it slow....

Good luck....
Click to expand...

Sounds like a great idea. When and where in FL is the detail show. I would love for them to use my car for a Demo. I'll follow your advice to work a small area.
 
tuscarora dave said:
I would recommend the 6.5 inch Lake country flat pads.Lake Country Pads
Orange or white foam for M-105 depending on the severity of the scratches/defects,
Gray for the M-205 polishing step
Blue for the PO85RD final finishing step.
OR
These Hydro tech 6.5 inch pads Lake Country Hydro-Tech 6.5 Inch Foam Pads, water-based polish pads, foam buffing pads, hydro tech pads
Cyan for the M-105 cutting step
Tangerine for the M-205 polishing step
Crimson for the PO85RD step.

Really I would probably stick the pad that came with the polisher in a corner somewhere or use it to polish some furniture or something.

For Clay I would recommend a mild to medium grade clay. Will you be purchasing your supplies here at AGO? If so I would recommend this Meguiars Professional Auto Detailing Clay: Detail Clay cleans better than polishes! Clean your car with Meguiars Detailing Clay Bar, Overspray Clay. or Clay Magic Blue from your local Advance Auto Parts.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all this great product information. I do not plan to use any of the accessories that came with the polisher. The investment in time, work and money warrants purchasing only the best accessories. I plan to purchase what I need from AGO (it's only fair, given this GREAT website and members) if they stock it. Otherwise, I will purchase it where ever I can find it.
 
Bill,

From another 68er.

68 ain't old! Remember you are only as old as you let yourself be.

Once you get your process down (doing sections etc) just do a panel at a time. Ya don't have to finish it all at once. Side benefit is you can milk the job, thus not having to keep at that everlasting 'honey do' list.

Keep us posted how it all comes out.

Bill
 
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