O.C.Detailing
New member
- Jul 24, 2009
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My first FULL-ROTARY correction!!!
***EDIT!!!: The sun AFTER shots are further in the post on the second page! Please check them out.***
Okay, so the owner of this car is also the owner of a local Mercedes and BMW repair shop. He took it upon himself to paint the wheels on his car while they were still mounted on the car, but he didn't tape off and cover the rest of the vehicle. In short, the vehicle got absolutely COVERED with silver, acrylic overspray so dense that it actually made the car look grayish in direct sunlight rather than the rich, deep black that it was. It also felt like sandpaper when touched and even after washing with degreaser. I did attemp to clay it, but the clay removed nothing and just felt pointless, so I stopped after my test section and commenced with trying to work out a proper procedure to remove the overspray first, and then bring the paint back to life. There are a few RIDs here and there that I couldn't and didn't feel comfortable removing, but other than that, I'll let the photos do the speaking for me.
***INFORMATIVE COMMENT: The owner DID NOT want me to do ANYTHING to the wheels or tires on the car, so they are untouched per his request.***
PROCESS:
- 26 hours spent removing overspray and correcting the paint...
- Wash TWICE with Meg's Gold Class Shampoo and degreaser with AG foam gun. Left foam to dwell approximately 5 minutes in the hopes it would soften the overspray...it didn't. Washed again with Meg's Gold Class, 2 bucket method and 100% natural lamb's wool mit and rinsed with warm water.
- Clayed a small section of the car, but it made no difference what-so-ever and I deemed it unneccessary considering the entire car was absolutely covered with overspray and the time investment to finish claying would have been better spent towards actually removing the overspray with compound and wool
- Dried using an Absorber
- My test section started with a VERY light wetsand using 3m 2500 grit wetordry paper and using my Griot's DA, wool pad and Meg's Diamond Cut 2.0 compound to remove the sanding marks, but it didn't shine the way I needed it to, so I busted out the Chicago Tool Company rotary with synthetic wool pad and achieved a very good correction that would buff out well with a light-cut pad and polish after compounding.
- After spending 8 hours on the trunk and hood (horizontal panels were the worst with the overspray coverage), I realized how much I was NOT a fan of the pad I was using and purchased 2 3M foam compounding pads for their accuracy over the wool and started knocking out the sides of the vehicle on day 2. Correction was much faster and far more accurate, so I made good progress with removing the overspray over most of the car.
- Once ever panel had been hit with the rotary, foam compound pad and Meg's DC 2.0, I pulled it out into the sun to admire the holograms I'd induced as well as the micro-marring and haziness I knew I had. I pulled out the Griot's DA, Meg's Cross-cut yellow polishing pad and Optimum Polish II so I could start removing all of the defects left behind after compounding.
- After polishing, I did and IPA 50/50 wipedown of the entire vehicle and grabbed a LC 6" Black Finishing pad and Optimum Poli-seal. I spent a couple of extra hours on the car on day 3 as the forecast was guaranteeing rain the next day and I wanted some protection on the freshly corrected paint before-hand.
- I still need to top the poli-seal with a couple of coats of Meg's Gold Class Carnauba Wax and take some sun shots, but wanted to show you my progress up to where I am right now.
And now onto the pictures!!!
BEFORES (After washing and drying):
The first pic doesn't look that bad, until I zoom in and show you how dense the overspray was...
Nice scratch here.
Pay attention to the fogginess of this picture with the overspray on it.
And the trunk too.
Another nice scratch. Also notice how the car looks like a dark gray instead of a deep, rich, oily black like it should.
Honestly, from a distance, the car didn't look too bad, but when you got up close...fail-city.
I taped off a small section and would you believe these sandmarks were done with NO PRESSURE at all, but the DA wouldn't remove them with wool and compound.
Here's a better picture of it.
AND here we have correction using my rotary and a synthetic wool pad at about 1200 rpms. Now are you seeing how light the paint was compared to what it should be?
And the trunk corrected with the rotary and compound only, no polishing or LSP yet.
Monkey-man taking Myspace self-pics in the trunk. lol
***EDIT!!!: The sun AFTER shots are further in the post on the second page! Please check them out.***
Okay, so the owner of this car is also the owner of a local Mercedes and BMW repair shop. He took it upon himself to paint the wheels on his car while they were still mounted on the car, but he didn't tape off and cover the rest of the vehicle. In short, the vehicle got absolutely COVERED with silver, acrylic overspray so dense that it actually made the car look grayish in direct sunlight rather than the rich, deep black that it was. It also felt like sandpaper when touched and even after washing with degreaser. I did attemp to clay it, but the clay removed nothing and just felt pointless, so I stopped after my test section and commenced with trying to work out a proper procedure to remove the overspray first, and then bring the paint back to life. There are a few RIDs here and there that I couldn't and didn't feel comfortable removing, but other than that, I'll let the photos do the speaking for me.
***INFORMATIVE COMMENT: The owner DID NOT want me to do ANYTHING to the wheels or tires on the car, so they are untouched per his request.***
PROCESS:
- 26 hours spent removing overspray and correcting the paint...
- Wash TWICE with Meg's Gold Class Shampoo and degreaser with AG foam gun. Left foam to dwell approximately 5 minutes in the hopes it would soften the overspray...it didn't. Washed again with Meg's Gold Class, 2 bucket method and 100% natural lamb's wool mit and rinsed with warm water.
- Clayed a small section of the car, but it made no difference what-so-ever and I deemed it unneccessary considering the entire car was absolutely covered with overspray and the time investment to finish claying would have been better spent towards actually removing the overspray with compound and wool
- Dried using an Absorber
- My test section started with a VERY light wetsand using 3m 2500 grit wetordry paper and using my Griot's DA, wool pad and Meg's Diamond Cut 2.0 compound to remove the sanding marks, but it didn't shine the way I needed it to, so I busted out the Chicago Tool Company rotary with synthetic wool pad and achieved a very good correction that would buff out well with a light-cut pad and polish after compounding.
- After spending 8 hours on the trunk and hood (horizontal panels were the worst with the overspray coverage), I realized how much I was NOT a fan of the pad I was using and purchased 2 3M foam compounding pads for their accuracy over the wool and started knocking out the sides of the vehicle on day 2. Correction was much faster and far more accurate, so I made good progress with removing the overspray over most of the car.
- Once ever panel had been hit with the rotary, foam compound pad and Meg's DC 2.0, I pulled it out into the sun to admire the holograms I'd induced as well as the micro-marring and haziness I knew I had. I pulled out the Griot's DA, Meg's Cross-cut yellow polishing pad and Optimum Polish II so I could start removing all of the defects left behind after compounding.
- After polishing, I did and IPA 50/50 wipedown of the entire vehicle and grabbed a LC 6" Black Finishing pad and Optimum Poli-seal. I spent a couple of extra hours on the car on day 3 as the forecast was guaranteeing rain the next day and I wanted some protection on the freshly corrected paint before-hand.
- I still need to top the poli-seal with a couple of coats of Meg's Gold Class Carnauba Wax and take some sun shots, but wanted to show you my progress up to where I am right now.
And now onto the pictures!!!
BEFORES (After washing and drying):
The first pic doesn't look that bad, until I zoom in and show you how dense the overspray was...
Nice scratch here.
Pay attention to the fogginess of this picture with the overspray on it.
And the trunk too.
Another nice scratch. Also notice how the car looks like a dark gray instead of a deep, rich, oily black like it should.
Honestly, from a distance, the car didn't look too bad, but when you got up close...fail-city.
I taped off a small section and would you believe these sandmarks were done with NO PRESSURE at all, but the DA wouldn't remove them with wool and compound.
Here's a better picture of it.
AND here we have correction using my rotary and a synthetic wool pad at about 1200 rpms. Now are you seeing how light the paint was compared to what it should be?
And the trunk corrected with the rotary and compound only, no polishing or LSP yet.
Monkey-man taking Myspace self-pics in the trunk. lol
Last edited:
I love beading too. I'll take pics of it whenever I can. I just use a 6MP Fuji Point and Shoot, nothing fancy.
