OC 2.0 problems again...

octane

octane

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So last year I tried to apply the stuff to my car, whatever the reason, didn't have success with the application. so I researched a lot more this time around, and thought I had the perfect plan...

polished the car with optimum hyper polish on an orange hydro tech
polished with m205 on a black pad (soft black paint)...
stong wash with a foam cannon 4 oz of optimum car wash with 4 oz of optimum apc
griots paint prep

no beading anywhere, perfect, I then dried the car with a blower...

applied using a suede applicator, and dried using compressed air, as I went along small sections, didn't even have to level any high spots, and used 8ml for a toyota rav (didn't do the roof).

so after 9 days I wash the car with ONR, that's when I see the little specks of sap on the paint, so I decide to do another wash using the foam cannon and adding 2 oz of CG bug and tar wash to the soap mix (Chris says that you can start washing the car with harsh stuff after a week), now when I flood the paint, it sheets but it leaved a lot of water behind, and it's all quarter sized beads, kind of like 3 month old wax would...

now I'm getting pissed, I thought my application was perfect this time around, and I go and used bug wash after the "ok" timeframe, and now the beading changed drasticaly. was the bug wash a big no no, or was it something else? I'm just about the throw in the garbage all the OC2 I have left...
 
I wouldn't have used sush a strong product that soon myself but that's beside the point. My guess would be that the bug and tar remover isn't fully washed off the paint. Try an ONR or regular wash and see where you're at.
 
well I rinsed using the pressure washer, so I think it's all off...

it was about 60F when I applied it, and the week was warm but not hot... maybe it didn't cure as quick as it could of...
 
I agree that i wouldnt have used any aggressive cleaners because im pretty sure the cure time is at least 30 days...but im sure chris will chime in...

as for the sap, and within the 30 day cure time, i might have tried a hand polish with poli seal instead of an aggressive soap...

im thinking also that the change in beading might be sue to something in the bug wash...try a dawn wash to remove any waxes that might have been in the CG soap.

if you did kill the coating with the CG soap, the dawn wont hurt it IMO.
 
Personally I wouldnt polish it, even with a mild polish. I'm of the understanding that abrasives will remove the OC.

To the OP, I wouldnt throw away that OC. SO far in almost 6 mos of testing it here in Hawaii (level 9-10 UV rays, Salt, and rain almost every day/night) it is doing rather awesome. I have OC Pro on my wifes CRV (applied 3-4 mos ago) still holding strong along with a test spot on my car (about 6 mos) and a test headlight that sits out on my garage roof 24/7 in full sunlight/rain (3-4 mos).

Everything that sits on it including sap, bird droppings, water marks, etc. come off semi-easily. Although i had one bird dropping that sat on my test spot for about 2 weeks take a little extra cleaning to come off but left no etching.

I agree with what someone else mentioned, make sure you get the bug & tar cleaner all the way off. I've had APC's and stuff take a little extra cleaning to come fully off. Sometimes you think its off and its not. Not to mention that during the OC cure process and after, the paint doesn't feel super slick ever. Water beads always have stayed and never completely come off a sitting car. Can you take pix of the beads?
 
This is why I'm not crazy about coatings. Sometimes they work. Sometimes they don't. Sometimes they last. Some times they don't. Some paint likes them. Some paint don't. You can do everything right and it still seems like sometimes its a crap shoot.

They are supposed to be so "tough", but many have had their "life long protection" wash away without a trace after a few months (weeks?)

Unless you are the size of an atom, who knows if it's still there ????
 
octane said:
well I rinsed using the pressure washer, so I think it's all off...

it was about 60F when I applied it, and the week was warm but not hot... maybe it didn't cure as quick as it could of...
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I'm just a noob here, but isn't this too extreme rinsing? I do remember someone doing experiments with OC2 and total cure taking 3 months as opposed to the stated 30 days.

Also, what went wrong in the first try? I just ordered OC2 and plan to do a beater car first and later my wife's RAV4, too.
 
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never had a problem rinsing with a pressure washer, I use a 1200psi one, so it's not very powerful. I used the cure information that I found on the optimum forums, and it said you could get it wet after a couple of hours, wash with ONR after 2-3 days, and more harsh chemicals after 7 days. the 3 months where for the full hardness to be reached.

first time I applied it, I tried to "wipe in" the product instead of "wiping on" the product, I also had problems with the polishing oils not all being removed from the surface prior to application. so the resulting coating was uneven, and too thin in some spots..

so another rav4! that's why your name looks familliar!
 
octane said:
first time I applied it, I tried to "wipe in" the product instead of "wiping on" the product
Click to expand...

OK, I'm not sure what's the difference. I actually asked a family member who is a native english speaker and he didn't see a difference either.
 
friendly_jacek said:
OK, I'm not sure what's the difference. I actually asked a family member who is a native english speaker and he didn't see a difference either.
Click to expand...

sorry if it's not too clear,

basicly wiping in, means that you are applying and working it until it's all gone/dry.

but what you want is to apply it on the paint without overworking the product.
 
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