ok guys.... need some help here

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Mpower4life

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OK so I have done what I have thought to be a lot of research. I have "detailed" quite a few vehicles now but I must say... I am not happy with the results as far as paint correction goes. Long story short, I have a PC 7424xp, Flex 3401, and a GG 6". I have the LC pads (CCS and Hydro), uber pads, surbuf MF cut pads. I have been using M105 for compounding or if I use the MF I use the D300. I have various Menzerna polishes as well to follow up with and M205. I am doing the motion that everyone says is proper. Each time I get excited as I follow peoples write ups and what they have done to what appears to be a perfect finish, I am always disappointed. Where is this whole, "you can correct paint almost to perfection with a DA polisher" notion coming from?? I have not yet been able to achieve this and am getting very frustrated and disheartened with the process. Ultimately what I guess my question is what am I doing wrong? Am I not spending enough time on the process? On a car that is in pretty bad shape, how long relatively would it take to get these results in the paint correction process? Am I better off taking the plunge and start practicing on some junk hoods with a rotary? Keep in mind, most cars I'm working on are full details so I am spending quite a bit of time on the interior. I've heard guys say they can spend 20+ hours on paint correction and i've also heard much less. SO, with that said, how long should each section (2x2) take? how many passes is realistic? Or is it just a must that pretty hammered cars need a rotary or even a wet sand to get the desired results. Any help here would be great... cough* (Mike P) *cough.
 
Welcome to AGO!!

Your question is really broad with many variables. There are defects that may require wet sanding or cannot be corrected at all. Assuming the defects are correctable:

1. Work in smaller areas 1x1
2. Use slower arm speeds. Thinking the "1 one thousand, 2 one thousand" cadence realizing that you should only be moving a couple of inches may help.
3. When using the PC or GG, use enough pressure to slow the pad spinning but not enough to stop it. Keep the pad flat, too.
 
i mean defects that are on the surface, cobwebbing and what appears to be scratches from brushes at automatic car washes. It did not seem to make a difference how much pressure I was applying. Let's take a black car for instance.... those straight line scratches and sand markings and cobwebbing that I can only seem to reduce but by no means are they close to gone. The cobwebbing bugs me the most. I can reduce it but cannot get the result that I have seen many times in photos.
 
I just ordered the 5 inch backing plate a few days ago. I am also trying to upload a pic of an example of defects but it's saying it failed to upload
 
pictures would be a plus...so that we could see what your seeing. Not all defects can be corrected.

try to post some pics so we can try to help you.
 
instructions of posting pics would help. I've never had an issue with browsing my pictures, selecting the picture, and uploading it. for whatever reason it is failing.
 
and another, I could not get those long scratches out. The others were only reduced
 
That is how I feel, I ordered a Flex Rotary (have a GG da), surbuf, Meg's MF, m105, m205 and even M101!

With this combo I should be burning hole into sheet metal.

This Friday I should receive the Flex rotary.
 
You did clay the paint beforehand, right? Otherwise you're just smearing the gritty contaminants around..
 
anyone have some insight here?? What I'm saying is... if it really just takes that much more time with a DA then I see it as a hard sell and justification of time spent. Would a rotary realistically cut my time in half? (I know it takes a lot of practice and technique)
 
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