Old School Aluminum Slotted Mag Wheels - Extreme Makeover

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Umm... because I make things shiny for a living? I enjoy making things shiny for a living and I like to show others how to make things shiny for a living. Good question though... :xyxthumbs:



Because I like to be able to always be able to "maintain" them.



If you have SOLID aluminum wheel, --> you <-- can always work on them whether light maintenance polishing or restoration. No big deal, whip out a can of aluminum polish and go to town.


Maybe I'm the only one that gets the solid, polishable medium of aluminum?

To each their own but for me the solid, aluminum slotted wheel is the best wheel on the market hands down. Strong, lightweight, good looking and always timeless.


:)
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No, Mike, I get it also.

I travel to SC frequently and always have a polishing job (paint and or aluminum) from this dedicated customer. Grill surround and wheels are uncoated aluminum. He likes a high shine but not mirrror finish...me, I prefer the mirror finish, but he's the one paying.

The customer is retired and most of his buddies own restored 60's model p/u's and his is always blinging, thanks to my services. I even had products shipped to his house so that I could have trunk space for the better half and her oft times travel companion

.
68_detail_1.jpg


The truck was restored 11+ years ago. Wheels were solid grey and previously acid washed before I started on them last Thanksgiving.
 
Vegas Transplant said:
No, Mike, I get it also.

68_detail_1.jpg


The truck was restored 11+ years ago. Wheels were solid grey and previously acid washed before I started on them last Thanksgiving.
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Cool and wheels and truck look awesome!


When I get closer to having my truck finished I'll bring the slotted mags in for sanding and polishing and do my best work to get a mirror shine on them. The set on the Jimmy are not the top quality slotted mags that were available in the 1970's and the ones on my project truck are only marginally better so I'm always looking for 2 more pair to match the two high quality slotted mags I do have...

These two and "yes" to this date only the one on the left has been polished. This is big truck stuff, 16.5 rims on 8-bolt lug patterns. Hard to find, especially wider than 10" for big tires.

My project truck is sitting on a Dana 60 1-ton front end, all rebuilt and ready to go, the rear is 1-Ton Corporate 14-Bolt, all rebuilt and ready to go...

Dana 60 Front Disc Brakes with a brand new set of Warn Locking Hubs
Dana60withNewWarnHubs02.jpg



NewMagProject01.jpg




454 is in the shop as we speak being rebuilt.


:D
 
Lot of Nevada hands running Dana 60's and similar set-ups in the desert and at Moab.
Not really into cars and p/u's, but if your talking Cat, Cummins, Detroit, Fuller/Eaton, 359's and W900's...then I'm in.
 
Back on topic Mike, most don't realize the steps and magnitude of the posted turn around.
Many stop short of the miracle and settle for a decent shine. Great review and excellent work as usual hand.:xyxthumbs:

I too enjoy keeping up the aluminum. Not really a bother or a pain...Just have to be careful when applying tire degreaser to the rubber. Hate to have streaks after all of the hard work, this is what the mirror finished looked like after 7 months of washes and use of APC. Was able to bring it back similar to previous photo using Mothers Aluminum Polish and Powercone.

Washed out cell phone pic - but streaks (burns) are present. Forgot to take after shots on Friday.
68_wheel.jpg
 
Vegas Transplant said:
Back on topic Mike, most don't realize the steps and magnitude of the posted turn around.
Many stop short of the miracle and settle for a decent shine. Great review and excellent work as usual hand.:xyxthumbs:

I too enjoy keeping up the aluminum. Not really a bother or a pain...Just have to be careful when applying tire degreaser to the rubber. Hate to have streaks after all of the hard work, this is what the mirror finished looked like after 7 months of washes and use of APC. Was able to bring it back similar to previous photo using Mothers Aluminum Polish and Powercone.

Washed out cell phone pic - but streaks (burns) are present. Forgot to take after shots on Friday.
68_wheel.jpg
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Hmm... tapered barrels?

Mine use Acorn Lug Nuts...

But yes I agree. When you're working on something you really like it's not so much work as it is relaxation. I LOVED polishing the aluminum running gear on my Sanger Drag Boat even though it was a finger and knuckle buster around some areas.



1970SangerDragBoat003.jpg



:)
 
Hey Mike, old thread but, I am getting into aluminum and metal polishing, and remembered this thread.:xyxthumbs:

Anyway, a few questions:

1. If I follow this process will I remove the scuff pad scratches?

2. I just polished some stakes on a Harley Sportster and the final result was "spotty", with some parts being good and others being still greyish and oxidized. Any way to get around these stubborn spots?

3. Have you got anymore info on restoring/polishing aluminum?:D

Thanks!:dblthumb2:

Jeff
 
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I had a race car that used a magnesium pressure plate on the rear wheels. I had them polished to a mirror finish and then had them clear powder coated. They stayed looking good for almost 2 race seasons. It is the shiny piece in the center of the LR wheel, the black rear axle nut holds it up against the gold wheel center. In between races I would just clean them off with glass cleaner.
reed_car_2_irp.jpg
 
Sorry, I just realised that the wheels that you did were aluminum not magnesium.
 
UltimateDetail said:
Hey Mike, old thread but, I am getting into aluminum and metal polishing, and remembered this thread.:xyxthumbs:

Anyway, a few questions:

1. If I follow this process will I remove the scuff pad scratches?
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With enough rubbing you should.




UltimateDetail said:
2. I just polished some stakes on a Harley Sportster and the final result was "spotty", with some parts being good and others being still greyish and oxidized. Any way to get around these stubborn spots?
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Possibly more rubbing on the troubled areas. It's a matter of abrading and removing the ugly to uncover the new.



UltimateDetail said:
3. Have you got anymore info on restoring/polishing aluminum?:D

Thanks!:dblthumb2:

Jeff
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At some point next year I'm going to sand down and buffing out an new set of slotted mags I've added to my collection. These are going to be the mags I run on my new/old truck that I'm hotrodding right now.


1978ChevyProject001.jpg
 
That truck's a little high for my liking, but it's certainly my style of truck and the higher they are the less you have to worry about someone scratching it. Hard to tell if it's a 78-79 model...don't think so. Looks more like an 84-87 model judging my the mirrors?
 
Hoytman said:
That truck's a little high for my liking, but it's certainly my style of truck and the higher they are the less you have to worry about someone scratching it.
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And believe it or not... that's one of the reasons I like to drive big truck, you don't have to worry about some jacknut giving your ride a door ding or running their shopping car or rear bumper into you.

In fact, most peole try to avoid getting too close...


Hoytman said:
Hard to tell if it's a 78-79 model...don't think so. Looks more like an 84-87 model judging my the mirrors?
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It's a 1975, last year for the FACTORY full convertible. I've owned 4 of these,

One 1969 Blazer CST
Two 1973 Blazer 4x4's
One 1975 Jimmy 4x4

And sometime down the road I'd like to get another one, something really sweet.


:)
 
That trucks pretty cool! For your wheels you should stop by your local truck stop and get some rouge bars and airway buffing wheels to try. Youd fall in love. Thats what i use on the two trucks at work. A mirror finish in 1/4 of the time
 
Good morning,

Is there a extension adapter for the Rupes LHR 12E Duetto?

Thanks
 
fuchsjhf said:
Good morning,

Is there a extension adapter for the Rupes LHR 12E Duetto?

Thanks
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No. There are no extensions for "orbital" polishers because they simply won't work. The pad is already "wobbly" on an orbital polisher. The further you move the pad away from the reciprocating components the MORE wobbly it would get.

It just doesn't work.

If you need to extend your reach to do buffing you need to use a rotary buffer with an extension or use tools like the RUPES iBrid Nano or go old school and work by hand.


Sorry that's probably not the answer you want to hear but that's the real-world answer.


:)
 
Thanks, the rotary buffer looks similar to my 4" Milwaukee grinder and same threads .
But, grinder spins to fast, just a thought.
 
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