Old school guy needs help!

From an older bird than you......I don't proclaim to be an expert but I see this as pretty simple. Drop the fears of removing a minuscule amount of clear and machine polish the car, it is past due. The PC is a good machine no doubt but I strongly suggest you also consider the Griot's polisher. It is considerably stronger than the PC and equally as safe, not to mention a lifetime warranty. In my opinion that lost luster that you wish to regain just won't happen with clay & paint cleaners alone.

Go here for some good shots of white vehicles:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/56194-best-reflection-shots-white-car.html

On page 5, post #47 is my ride. Good thread overall and it will give you some ideas on what is possible with white.

Thank you mucho for your advice about which DA Polisher to buy. Yes, I seem to remember some mention of what you say, that the Griot's Machine would be the way to go.

Also, thank you for the link, I did look at some of the shots. My paint looks surprisingly good considering the time that has passed, and that it is not a dedicated "show vehicle", or a trailer queen.

When I ordered that Vehicle in Chicago at the end of 1996, I mentioned, and asked the salesman who wrote up the order, that if this vehicle comes with the horrendous paint jobs that I see some of these having, am I going to lose a $500 downpayment if I back out?

He said "nope, we don't need your money that badly to rob $500 from you, place your mind at ease about such, we'll stand behind you, and go from there if it's required.

Luckily, the paint was beautiful all the way around, properly applied.

Still, I do believe since then, companies like GM, Ford Chrysler have improved, that application processes, and paint quality has further improved since then.

None the less, you folks, and this forum do give me a very strong perception, that my paint can be considerably improved upon, and look even more dazzling, if I'm willing to take that step into the 21st century.

Like paints, there seems to be little doubt, that these wonderful "lightweight" machines, and vehicle care products you folks are now using, and that are advertised here are quite pleasant, and considerable improvements over what was offered as little as 10-12 years ago.

Thank you again, I am so happy, and enthusiastic to be a new member here!
An old dog "can" learn new tricks! :xyxthumbs: Mark
 
BobbyG,
As usual my friend, great post.:xyxthumbs:

Hi Mark,
Welcome to Autogeek Online. Our forum is a great place for sharing knowledge. Glad you can join us.

Since you're older...not knockin' that of course, I'll throw out another tip to speed up your claying process (I'm aware that you already own good clay). While you're buying some products, go ahead and step up to the new speedy prep towel AND get yourself a NanoSkin Autoscrub pad to go on your polisher. It'll make "claying" (without the clay) ten times faster for your old bones. LOL! Why not? It's really that simple. I just attended a get together in Evansville, Indiana where Mr. Phillips demonstrated these products and boy does it save time.

My last tip for you would be don't wait until spring to buy your products. Some of the best sales Autogeek has are coming up around Thanksgiving, Black Friday(day after Thanksgiving), and 12 days of Christmas...all tremendous savings, for sure. That's your best timing to buy things.

I think you are correct of what you have said in your last Paragraph, about not waiting too long.

I kind of surmised such myself, that as winter approaches, sales on such items slow down, and that special sales, and offers will be popping up soon.

And I have a distinct avantage in a way, due to where I live. Often, in the middle of November, and even in December, we can get some quite lovely, and warm days, mid-high 70's, which are bone dry, and ideal for product applications, and processes. Just really sweet bluebird days, where you're not sweating, and can be comfortable in a T-Shirt.

I also have two Orbital Waxers, an old 11" Waxcoa (what a monster, probably good for doing Semi's, and large Mobile Homes!), and a smaller 9" Crafstman. I think I'll try dumping both of those as well, and see if I get any bites?

Really doesn't make much sense keeping all of it, when one machine can basically do it all, be easier to work with, and produce better results.

Damn shame about the Orbital Waxers though, I worked for 30 years as a Mechanic at Amtrak in Chicago, and during my last 8 years of service, was doing quite a bit of Upholstery Work for the Company. Thus, I had the opportunity in my spare time off the clock to make loads of custom Bonnets from huge pure Cotton Cannon Bath Towels. Oh well, the new owner will be getting some nice accessories to go with should they sell.
Mark
 
From an older bird than you......I don't proclaim to be an expert but I see this as pretty simple. Drop the fears of removing a minuscule amount of clear and machine polish the car, it is past due. The PC is a good machine no doubt but I strongly suggest you also consider the Griot's polisher. It is considerably stronger than the PC and equally as safe, not to mention a lifetime warranty. In my opinion that lost luster that you wish to regain just won't happen with clay & paint cleaners alone.

Go here for some good shots of white vehicles:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/56194-best-reflection-shots-white-car.html

On page 5, post #47 is my ride. Good thread overall and it will give you some ideas on what is possible with white.

Rick/Bobby/All,
Had to work after posting this morning, but after dinner, sat down, and read through the links Bobby Provided. (Thanks again Bobby!)

The Griots DA Polisher you suggest looks like a good route to go. Some of the features I like, such as a adjustable Bail Handle, this might prove an advantage when working tight areas, in that the Bail Handle can be adjusted further back, and out of the way.

It seems to allow a good sight picture of the work area when using, and I've think I read in the review comments section, that this particular machine can use the even smaller 3.5" Pads if desired? That might be nice for smaller projects,etc.

I'm not doing vehicles like I did 20 years ago, so I'm not placing professional strains, and hard use on any machine I buy. The Griots, or the Porter Cable probably would either equally serve me well.

I have read a couple unfavorable comments, that the Griots resembled a Harbor Frieght Tool, and/or didn't last long? Perhaps these reviewers were using an older model-version of this Machine?

The lifetime warrantee of the Griots does seem very hard to ignore. And I've heard good things about the Griots folks that they stand behind their customers, and there are no hassles with honoring such warranties should they be needed.

The Flex DA Machine seems very well built, and seems to be in a higher class of its own, and it also reflects that in its price. The added costs spent on the Flex machine could be perhaps better used towards a very good selection of detailing products, and pads, to insure I have all the bases covered, whether for my own vehicle, or for some other hypothetical "basket cases" that might possibly come along down the road.

I think for my personal needs, either the Griots, or PC Machines should both satisfy my needs.

I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for upcoming offers, and specials through this forum.
Thanks again gentlemen! Your help and advice is deeply appreciated! :props: Mark
 
I'm sorry to be overloading this one thread with so many posts, and thoughts. But, I have just spent about another two hours browsing through the forum's archives, to gain some "book knowledge".

My eyes are awful tired, but there's lots of great, informative reading here.

Many of you folks are highly knowledgeable, and experienced.
I do wish to learn properly through your experiences.

Thankfully, Mike Phillips seems to have many good articles, guidlines, reviews, and important factual knowledge about specs pertaining to choices of proper backing plates, etc., what works, what doesn't work, etc.

I kind of liked the large Griot's Package with both 6", and 3" DA Polishers, with some of the Pinnacle Pad Products as my choice.

Like many pieces of equipment, such as Rotary Polishers (My Milwaukee for instance) you get the basics, but must go beyond that with acessories like Specialty Backing Plate if you wish to use certain types of pads, like Hook&Loop especially with these more ancient "Christopher Columbus brought over" type machines.

As Mike P informs in one post, one will need a LC 5" Backing Plate in order to use the 5.5" LC Foam Pads, to insure no Backing Plate Overlap, and then possible incurred damage to a paint finish due to using a mismatched hodge podge of unorthodox Polisher Components-Parts.

As I continue to absorb more knowledge from archived posts, and your helpful knowledge, when it comes time to order, I will no doubt purchase a small assortment of some milder useage Polishing-Finishing-Wax Application Pads to fit my personal needs, and of course will finalize which chemicals (Polishes-Cleaners-Waxes will have the best synergistic match with which Foam Pads?

I know it will be wise, and save lots time, money, and maybe even tears of traveling down wrong unproven paths, to get such right the first time out.

I know there will be much personal opinion on products, and while I haven't actually narrowed that down 100% yet, I'll most likely be buying some of the Pinnacle Products.

Whether I'll spring $95 for a Can of Souveran Paste, I'm a bit unsure at this point, but I'm probably correct that once any minor paint defects of the base paint are properly corrected first, then a product such as the Collinte Waxes I have on hand should also be quite suitable for the quality of final finish, and gloss I wish to achieve. Mark
 
Is anyone else anxious to see Mark get this project moving forward and see the transformation?? I know I am.


Mark: I know this is an off-site suggestion, but there is a super cheap DA polisher at Harbor Freight that might get you started for less cash up front. I know the ancillaries like backing plates and pads and products add up fast.

Also I wouldn't sweat the 5.5" pads with the Griots polisher. It's powerful enough to handle the bigger pads.

And the bale handle... is not as great as you'd imagine. For one, it's not "adjustable on the fly". You need an allen wrench to loosen the screws and move it. In addition, the handle is a small surface area and when I tried it on mine, I was disappointed to find out that the small bale handle transmitted a significantly higher amount of vibration and was much less comfortable than just putting my hand on the head of the polisher itself. I also find that holding the polisher closer to the moving head also meant more stability.

good luck!

Matt
 
Is anyone else anxious to see Mark get this project moving forward and see the transformation?? I know I am.


Mark: I know this is an off-site suggestion, but there is a super cheap DA polisher at Harbor Freight that might get you started for less cash up front. I know the ancillaries like backing plates and pads and products add up fast.

Also I wouldn't sweat the 5.5" pads with the Griots polisher. It's powerful enough to handle the bigger pads.

And the bale handle... is not as great as you'd imagine. For one, it's not "adjustable on the fly". You need an allen wrench to loosen the screws and move it. In addition, the handle is a small surface area and when I tried it on mine, I was disappointed to find out that the small bale handle transmitted a significantly higher amount of vibration and was much less comfortable than just putting my hand on the head of the polisher itself. I also find that holding the polisher closer to the moving head also meant more stability.

good luck!

Matt

Thank you for this advice.
I would imagine as well, that on any of the Griots machines, that the Bail Handle can be unscrewed, and removed if desired? Or simply folded down in one direction, or the other?

I'm not yet totally sold on the Griots. and have also noted that the newest 3rd generation Griots machine has yet to hit the market. On Griots site, they say December 3rd. That's about a little over a month away at this point. I imagine at that time, Auto Geek will also then be taking orders for these.

I seem to gather that most changes are simply cosmetic ones on the Griots newest offering tat will come.

The one advantage that I seem to see, is that with a Lake County Backing Plate, there is a much larger assortment of the various Lake County Pads that will then properly fit? I'm under the strong impression that the quality, and type of Pads used on such machines are even more important than the products themselves as to what ease, performance, and safety will be experienced with these machines.

I'll be keeping my eyes peeled on the group's latest news, and I think a bit of sleeping, and research on such purchases will help me make the best decisions (hopefully!) Mark
 
Hi Mark,

Nice thread you have here, lots of top notch forum members providing great info...


I actually don't have anything to add except that the key to making white paint look great is to get it both clean and smooth.

Paint becomes stained and this staining can be hard to see on all but white paint. Last year Dennis Gage let me work on one of his Ford Taurus SHO's and one of the things Dennis pointed out during the segment was the "cleaning" results from the polishing work. Totally unscripted, he's just pointing out what he's seeing...

Ford Taurus SHO on My Classic Car with Dennis Gage - Flex 3401 Dual Action Polisher


Flex 3401 on My Classic Car with Dennis Gage and Mike Phillips
[video=youtube_share;BX2hhBP06JQ&hd=1"]Flex 3401 on My Classic Car with Dennis Gage and...[/video]​





As for getting the paint smooth, I'd say right now the Nanoskin Autoscrub pad really gets the job done like nothing I've ever felt before but claying will also get the job done.

In the below thread you'll see the glossy results that you want for your Tahoe but also look for a picture that shows an unused pad that is white in color and a used pad that is dirty looking and this is after we wiped the paint clean and AFTER we clayed the paint which also includes wiping the paint clean a second time... so where is all the dirt coming from on the pads?


1954 Ford F-100 - Extreme Makeover - Process and products used



This truck was re-painted approximately one year ago but just from exposure to the outdoors has made the paint vulnerable to air-borne contaminants...

This shot was taken with my trusty, dusty Canon Rebel with the flash on after claying the roof...
54Ford67.jpg




Robert using the PC and Glenn using the Meguiar's G110v2
54Ford83.jpg



Remember how dirty the clay was after claying just one half of the roof? Clay remove ABOVE surface bonded contaminants but it doesn't remove embedded staining of the paint. You can see abrading the paint with a light polish and a microfiber pad has removed the staining effect and restored a very bright and shiny finish.
54Ford84.jpg


54Ford85.jpg





:)
 
Should you go with the Griot's machine consider coughing up just a tad more for the HD version with the longer thicker electrical cord. It will be money well spent. That machine is strong enough to spin 6.5" flat pads (as mentioned above) but the 5.5" are preferred. I have a large supply of 6.5"'s on hand so I use what I've got. I simply didn't want to cough up the moola for additional pads of the smaller size. As Mike shows above the new microfiber pads seem to be miracle workers and should be considered.
 
Should you go with the Griot's machine consider coughing up just a tad more for the HD version with the longer thicker electrical cord. It will be money well spent. That machine is strong enough to spin 6.5" flat pads (as mentioned above) but the 5.5" are preferred. I have a large supply of 6.5"'s on hand so I use what I've got. I simply didn't want to cough up the moola for additional pads of the smaller size. As Mike shows above the new microfiber pads seem to be miracle workers and should be considered.

Thank you Rick for your good advice.

I've seriously considered going with the longer, and heavier gauge cord for any machine that I will purchase. I can recall the use of the Waxcoa-Craftsman Orbital Waxers quite memorably, and what a PITA they were with their short Cords. That I was resorting to knotting, and/or splaying the blades, or taping the plugs together with electrical tape to keep them from coming apart while in use.

As for the latest generation of Griots Machines about to hit the market soon. My thoughts are if the only changes to the new machine are cosmetic-ergonomic, that I may be just as well served with the 2nd generation model instead?

That rubber coating the bail handle is no biggie for me, I could perhaps custom wrap the older version handle with some nice padded-cushiony Cinelli Bicycle Handelbar Wrap Tape I have lying around here, and personalize my little machine.

Finger Grooves in the Housing sounds as well as something I could probably live without without losing performance, or comfort of use.

There may be a possibility, that when the new Griots Machines hit the market, that even better specials may be offered on the 2nd generation machine. This then may be the perfect time to buy, and maybe save even more money, with a machine that is perfectly fine for myself, and my needs? Mark
 
The one advantage that I seem to see, is that with a Lake County Backing Plate, there is a much larger assortment of the various Lake County Pads that will then properly fit?


Most DA backing plates have a 5/16" thread that is standard. The Flex DA being the exception, requiring a special bp due to the forced rotation gears. You can use any hook and loop da backing plate with any H&L pad.
 
Mark,

AG just had (maybe still has?) a sale on the Griot's machine. That is highly unusual when they discount any of the polishers and doesn't happen often. I see nothing intriguing with the newest Griot's.....same performance different cover. As you mentioned there could well be some price cuts to clear inventory on all sites. Don't forget that Autogeek price matches if you find a better deal elsewhere and you'll not find better customer service.
 
I would like adding something to this thread, as I have gone back and read all of what all of you people have written, and told me quite a few times.

Honestly, I think the brain actually works better while sleeping! Some clearer thought, and other thoughts about processes, and what perhaps should be done with my particular vehicle.

Of the products many of you have recommended, such as Claying, and other good products such as the Pinnacle Paint Scrubbing product.

Of course Claying is done by hand, and from reading info on many of the products listed here on Auto geek, the Paint Scrubbing Formula can as well be used by hand effectively.

Others, that Wolfgang make, such as a paint scrubber, with glaze added might be another such highly worthy product which can be either used by hand, or by DA Machine.

I've actually been more fanatical about the care of my Tahoe's paint, than my 1967 Corvette Convertible (owned from '77-85), and my 1968 SS396 Camaro (owned from '86-88) That, and other observations are that my wisdom about the use of many products had grown, and as well, the advent within the last 20 years of cutting edge products that weren't around back in the olden days. Things such as Clay Bars, Glazes, and other car care products are truly at the "pinnacle" of evolution today, nothing at all like the products of old, in which many were ineffective, or there was just nothing available (such as Clay Bars) to deal with paint overspray, or adhered surface contaminants on the paint finish.

There was always the reluctancy of taking machine to this vehicle. I was well aware that a machine could speed up processes, and in a professional's instance, it would be insanity to hand apply processes, unless one wished to take two weeks to properly do a customer's vehicle.

I'm aware that a professional will encounter many "basket cases", in which hand processes will just not properly work to achieve the desired results. I've been in this situation numerous times myself, doing people's vehicles, both collector cars, and daily drivers.

For my own needs, I can no doubt "get away" without the need, and use of any DA Machine. There is no damage, there is no swirls, and all I'm noticing, is a slight lack of highly reflective show car gloss. There's a little bit of loss in this area, and that can possibly be attested to a build up of old waxes-sealants, and that the bare paint needs a little TLC in adding some lotions to feed, and clean the paint.

I'll well aware of the pitfalls, and hazards to even seemingly simple uses of Waxers, and can envision the same for the DA Polishers. As one has mentioned, too much abrasion, and there's no going back, and the same applies to one little mistake, a bang into a mirror, not properly masking ornaments, trim, can spell disaster, and irreversible damage.

Like all of you folks, I'd prefer "not" to go there! LOL

That, and the rare occasion of equipment failure that I've read that can happen to virtually any of the machines, and another possible cause of mishap damage, I might be able to "get away" with only hand use of cutting edge products. As you would no doubt all smartly advise, "Do the least amount to attain the desired results".

I've pretty much "retired" from doing other's vehicles at the present, and don't envison doing such for the foreseeable future.

I'd think I'll be keeping my eyes open for specials of products from the Pinnacle, Wolfgang lines, and as well perhaps a few more products that will compliment my personal vehicle, such as some Vinyl-Rubber Care products, and some small array of complimentary tools, towels, applicators.

I can always add the DA Machine down the road.

As I close, the only forseeable problem is where again to store it all? I thing I have more car car products on hand than the local Auto Zone store! LOL
Mark
 
Here's a old story, perhaps might be long, and hopefully not boring.

Many years ago, I was asked to detail, and fix a best friend's car, which he had bought just a month earlier. "Cadillac Jimmy's Car" was a extremely clean, all original all black 1965 Cadillac Calais. Bought it from a "little old lady"! LOL

After James got through with the car, he said it looked even worse, and wanted the car looking right, as he wanted to place the car in an auto show the following weekend.

Hence, this is where I come in. James said the car was nothing but a big mass of streaks, swirls, clouds, and the paint just basically was looking like crap after his efforts.

He was living in Addision, Ill at the time, and myself in Chicago. So off I go with an entire trunkful worth of products, and tools, pads, bonnets, etc.

At the time, I was largely dealing with a now long gone wax factory in Chicago called "Nu Look". They made a lot of really superb products, specifically catering to the detailing shops abroad.

I had considerable reservations initially of even taking on the job, the compliments, and the important need of my abilities were of course nicely taken, but I then knew my abilties were going to be placed in an extremely demanding position. That what I was going to do, would have no compromise, what I would do would have to be no less than perfect for this specific job.

When I personally inspected the vehicle, I knew I was going to be in for hell, as there were light scratches, haze, swirls, and a lack of luster.
I did confer with the owner of Nu Look, Frank D'Amato beforehand, as to what would be the best choices within his personal lines of products.

The vehicle did need High Speed Buffing, Polishing, and then a final wax, and detail. I was indeed scared shitless of taking high speed buffer to 25 year old Laquer Paint.

I spent a total of 8 hours doing the major processes, and concentrating on the major flaws to get James "out of the woods", and would leave any minor detailing processes such as Door Jambs, Interior Cleanup and Detail to him, and left him an entire cardboard box worth of detailing sprays, interior cleaners, waxes, polishes, Tire Cleaners-Treatments, and a host of Perfumes. Frank must've had the largest selection of Perfumes on the planet, about 40 in all.

I think I lost 6 lbs in sweat with the work, and worry with that car! LOL

The car was looking magnificent, like one huge black mirror. The Pink Magic pure Liquid Carnauba that Frank used to make ($13 Gallon) at the time was really a fantastic product.

James was 100% happy with the work, but I still had reservations about how my work would be taken by car show enthusiasts, and perhaps Judges? And as well, whether my work would be seen as properly done as time passed, and whether that work would stand the test of time?

I got the call from James the next day following the Car Show.

It was all great news, he took a "Best in Show" out of about 100-125 vehicles.

The Judge's first questions, were, "Who painted the Car", and James told them, "GM did 25 years ago!" They couldn't beleve it.

They also commented that "He had the best smelling car at the Show! :-)

That was the "Bubble Gum" Perfume he decided to use, which used to smell just like Juicy Fruit Gum.

James still has that car, now lives in Sarasota Florida, has amassed probably 150 Trophies, and has earned himself the name "Cadillac Jimmy". He's been a car club president down there for quite a few years as well, and probably does shows almost every weekend.

The car still wears the original Paint! Mark
 
Last edited:
I would like adding something to this thread, as I have gone back and read all of what all of you people have written, and told me quite a few times.

Honestly, I think the brain actually works better while sleeping! Some clearer thought, and other thoughts about processes, and what perhaps should be done with my particular vehicle.

Of the products many of you have recommended, such as Claying, and other good products such as the Pinnacle Paint Scrubbing product.

Of course Claying is done by hand, and from reading info on many of the products listed here on Auto geek, the Paint Scrubbing Formula can as well be used by hand effectively.

Others, that Wolfgang make, such as a paint scrubber, with glaze added might be another such highly worthy product which can be either used by hand, or by DA Machine.

I've actually been more fanatical about the care of my Tahoe's paint, than my 1967 Corvette Convertible (owned from '77-85), and my 1968 SS396 Camaro (owned from '86-88) That, and other observations are that my wisdom about the use of many products had grown, and as well, the advent within the last 20 years of cutting edge products that weren't around back in the olden days. Things such as Clay Bars, Glazes, and other car care products are truly at the "pinnacle" of evolution today, nothing at all like the products of old, in which many were ineffective, or there was just nothing available (such as Clay Bars) to deal with paint overspray, or adhered surface contaminants on the paint finish.

There was always the reluctancy of taking machine to this vehicle. I was well aware that a machine could speed up processes, and in a professional's instance, it would be insanity to hand apply processes, unless one wished to take two weeks to properly do a customer's vehicle.

I'm aware that a professional will encounter many "basket cases", in which hand processes will just not properly work to achieve the desired results. I've been in this situation numerous times myself, doing people's vehicles, both collector cars, and daily drivers.

For my own needs, I can no doubt "get away" without the need, and use of any DA Machine. There is no damage, there is no swirls, and all I'm noticing, is a slight lack of highly reflective show car gloss. There's a little bit of loss in this area, and that can possibly be attested to a build up of old waxes-sealants, and that the bare paint needs a little TLC in adding some lotions to feed, and clean the paint.

I'll well aware of the pitfalls, and hazards to even seemingly simple uses of Waxers, and can envision the same for the DA Polishers. As one has mentioned, too much abrasion, and there's no going back, and the same applies to one little mistake, a bang into a mirror, not properly masking ornaments, trim, can spell disaster, and irreversible damage.

Like all of you folks, I'd prefer "not" to go there! LOL

That, and the rare occasion of equipment failure that I've read that can happen to virtually any of the machines, and another possible cause of mishap damage, I might be able to "get away" with only hand use of cutting edge products. As you would no doubt all smartly advise, "Do the least amount to attain the desired results".

I've pretty much "retired" from doing other's vehicles at the present, and don't envison doing such for the foreseeable future.

I'd think I'll be keeping my eyes open for specials of products from the Pinnacle, Wolfgang lines, and as well perhaps a few more products that will compliment my personal vehicle, such as some Vinyl-Rubber Care products, and some small array of complimentary tools, towels, applicators.

I can always add the DA Machine down the road.

As I close, the only forseeable problem is where again to store it all? I thing I have more car car products on hand than the local Auto Zone store! LOL
Mark

I've been quietly watching this thread for a while now. I know a lot of things are hard to see on white paint...you would see every one of them on your friends Caddy. If you want to give it a go by hand more power to you my friend. I will tell you that your looking at a lot of real estate!! I would say 20-40 hours worth to put a high gloss shine on it. So really I guess it depends on what kind of price you put on your fee time. How many hours do you have to save to be worth 130.00-170.00. I know you say there aren't scratches. It's been my experience that regular towels put very fine scratches in the clear...and going over a fairly dirty area and continuing to wash without rinsing or changing wash media leaves fine scratches. I would say...and this is just my opinion that 70-80% of the loss of luster is caused by little fine scratches. It really doesn't matter to me if you buy a DA or not..and like you said you can buy it later. Just trying to save you some time and very sore arms.
 
I've been quietly watching this thread for a while now. I know a lot of things are hard to see on white paint...you would see every one of them on your friends Caddy. If you want to give it a go by hand more power to you my friend. I will tell you that your looking at a lot of real estate!! I would say 20-40 hours worth to put a high gloss shine on it. So really I guess it depends on what kind of price you put on your fee time. How many hours do you have to save to be worth 130.00-170.00. I know you say there aren't scratches. It's been my experience that regular towels put very fine scratches in the clear...and going over a fairly dirty area and continuing to wash without rinsing or changing wash media leaves fine scratches. I would say...and this is just my opinion that 70-80% of the loss of luster is caused by little fine scratches. It really doesn't matter to me if you buy a DA or not..and like you said you can buy it later. Just trying to save you some time and very sore arms.

Hello Dave,

Firstly, I wish to say thank you!

Your post is what I would like to refer to, as "The Undisputed Truth".

I doubt that there would be one detailer, amateur, or professional, who would debate, or discount what you've said-written. And I won't either, I think you are 100% correct.

I think that I will either get all the "little goodies", and then a DA Polisher, whichever comes first, I cannot say, but I will try finding some good deals, where I can maybe feel good about saving a few centavos.

No bites yet on my monstrous Milwaukee Rotary, or "Wax Slinger" machines. I didn't have much high hopes here. If I priced the Milwaukee at $15, even a cake baker would be calling me here. That's the tough breaks of living here I'm afraid. People here are super "el cheapo".

I don't wish to bombard you great folks with an over excess on this particular post, but will perhaps keep all you kind folks informed about my little destination, and where it leads me.

Thank you again sir! Mark
 
To all you fine folks.

Perhaps this particular thread is getting a bit long in the tooth?

I'm sorry that I do have a sort of bad habit, I talk too much! :-)

I've placed a lot of thoughts to writing, but I do need to "button my lips", and listen more to you folks.

I have watched a couple of Mike's videos earlier.
You folks are all correct. There's going to be no way to attain such high quality end results by hand alone. I should not be having any phobias, or apprehensions of using such a machine like the Porter Cable 7424XP.

Perhaps I'm a little afraid, as I've gotten older, and haven't really kept up with many of the processes.

Mike's "how to" techniques, and expertise is easy, and straightforward to clearly understand. They are mostly things that I used to basically know in the past.

I think I'm liking the Porter Cable Machine, and this will most likely be the one I will buy.

I will perhaps start another thread soon, and again, I'm going to try hard to listen more, ask pertinent questions, as you folks do have more experience than I with these newer machines-processes.

I'll continue to read and study the archives, and will earnestly try absorbing more knowledge.

Thank you again all, very much for your help, and advice! You guys are all really great! Mark
 
I think I'm liking the Porter Cable Machine, and this will most likely be the one I will buy.

You won't be disappointed. It is a great machine and will save you TONS of time and give better results compared to trying to polish your paint by hand. Due to the design of the machine it is also incredibly safe so any apprehension you may have about possibly damaging your vehicle should be slim to none.

It sounds like you are well on your way to becoming a true AutoGeek! Keep watching those videos and asking those questions... your paint will be shiny in no time! :props:
 
I think I'm liking the Porter Cable Machine, and this will most likely be the one I will buy.


With any of the 5.5" thin foam pads or the new evolution of microfiber pads, you can do a lot with a Porter Cable 7424XP and it's a tool with a time-proven reliability record.

And safe?




Removing Swirls and Oxidation By Machine
[video=youtube_share;PWdYCHZrpd8"]How To Remove Oxidation by Machine Polishing with...[/video]​






:)
 
Mike, you truly are a mind blower. Mucho thanks for "stopping in".

I am truly so gosh darn "itchy" right now, I know I am going to be staggered by my next month's credit card statement! LOL

Money no object, I could easily spend $1000 with the auto geek folks, and be about 55% there!

Detailing is like a drug. Sadly, I have just too many other hobbies, like Drums, Music, Astronomy, and they can all lead to being "very rich man's hobbies".

McIntosh Audio Gear, Handmade precision Optics, Collector Vintage Drums, I am truly sick! Hee hee.

But, I'm very happy with the person I am. Wouldn't have it any other way!
Thanks again Mike, love ya! Mark
 
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