Oldest Vehicle You Have Worked On

I don't have a business YET so the oldest would have to be my own. A 1991 F-150. Does anyone know how to make the bed cover have a good shine without getting rundown after it rains?

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Clean it good with some diluted Optimum power clean and a Opti-Mitt, Schmitt, or grout sponge. Then seal it with Ultima Tire and Trim Guard.
 
60' Corvette sitting in the shop right now waiting for a detail and engine rebuild. I have it until spring.

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That Toyota is sweet, definitly way before its time.

It's a copy of the 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO. Copying the work of other countries' inventors and making subtle improvements is what the Japanese do. That said, it is the best looking Japanese car ever made, and the only one I would like to have.
 
I have them on my photobucket account. Accessible at home. I will post one up this afternoon if I can remember.

Any advice to bring luster out of that type of single stage spray with no clear?
Meguiar's #7. 3 or 4 coats.
 
60' Corvette sitting in the shop right now waiting for a detail and engine rebuild. I have it until spring.

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OMG, DEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEwow, that thing is beautiful!!!! Can I drive it...Please (after the engine rebuild).Im the MAN
 
OMG, DEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEwow, that thing is beautiful!!!! Can I drive it...Please (after the engine rebuild).Im the MAN
It's nothing special Tadman, its not bad but it could use a restoration.
 
D, nice car! I'm coming back to Ohio for that one. :) I got shotgun Im the MAN
 
1963 Seagrave 100' ladder truck. Arcrylic lac. finish fadded to a nice flat finish. 4weeks of off and on compounding and polishing.
 
Clean it good with some diluted Optimum power clean and a Opti-Mitt, Schmitt, or grout sponge. Then seal it with Ultima Tire and Trim Guard.
I just bought a jug of Meg's APC+ Would that work as good as the Optimum APC? I just don't want to waste the Meg's. I thought about getting the Ultima Tire and Trim Guard. Thanks for the advice!
 
1938 John Deere G. Dusty at the moment from sitting inside my building. I am ashamed she has such a layer of dust...

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1956 Farmall Cub. Also very dusty right now...

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Thanks for looking. Both are single stage paint. I will certainly try the Meuiars #7 if that is the concensus as to the proper wax to use...
 
Thanks for looking. Both are single stage paint.

I will certainly try the Meguiars #7 if that is the consensus as to the proper wax to use...

#7 Show Car Glaze is a what is called a non-abrasive, pure polish, it's very rich in an unique oil base that brings out the full richness of color in single stage paints and revives, old and antique paints.

It's a polish you would apply and really work into the paint and then wipe off the excess and then seal with a wax or paint sealant.

By itself its water soluble, so you need to seal it in with something that is not water soluble, which is a coat of wax or a paint sealant.

This article I wrote below contains a lot of information on the #7 Show Car Glaze and is also an article published on AutoTraderClassic.com



The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints


Here's an excerpt...

Mike Phillips said:
The Secret of Number Seven
There is a way to restore single stage paints that is non-abrasive and as gentle as you can get using a product that’s been around since early paints were formulated. That product is called Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #7 Show Car Glaze.

#7 Sealer Reseal Glaze = Show Car Glaze
Here’s a photo of a few bottles of #7 from my car wax collection. I have some older bottles from before WWII, but this picture shows the transition from when the name changed from Sealer and Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze.

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(Click here for a larger picture)


The glass bottle on the left hand side is post-WWII. You can identify glass bottles as pre-WWII or post-WWII by the name on the label. Pre-WWII bottles will say Mirror Bright on the front label and post-WWII bottles will have Mirror Glaze on the bottle. This has to so with a posterity program instigated by the U.S. Government at the start of World War II which prevented companies from raising prices on existing products; because the cost of raw materials were increasing due to the war a lot of companies couldn’t make a profit under the new regulations so to get around them they would introduce a new product line at a higher price point. These could be the same physical products but introduced as a new product line by giving the products different names.

#7 Show Car Glaze as it’s called today is what’s referred to as a non-abrasive pure polish, it’s not for abrading paint but instead for maintaining paint and creating a beautiful finish. There’s a lot of confusion over this product and any product that uses the word polish in the product's name or on the label because the word polish is usually interpreted to mean some type of abrasive product as in a rubbing or polishing compound. While that might be true for some products it’s not true for this product.

Sometimes I have to remind people that #7 has been around long before plastic was invented, thus the glass bottles. The plastic "cylinder" bottle you see below, (just to the right of the glass bottle), was the first plastic bottle used for #7 and was introduced I think in the late 1950's, maybe early 1960's.

The 4th bottle from the right shows when they changed the name from Sealer Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze primarily because as our lingo changed in the car appearance world. People were confusing the word "Sealer" with the word "Sealant" and M07 is water-soluble. Hopefully everyone reading this can understand why that kind of confusion could be a problem in the enthusiast or consumer market.


The third bottle from the right shows the label during the transition when the name was changed. If you look closely under the words ShowCar Glaze it reads, (Same as Sealer and Reseal Glaze)

Transition Label Circa Late 1980's or 1990's
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Just in case you don’t understand why there was some confusion over the use of the word "Sealer" here’s why; a paint sealant is for protection and should last through inclement weather and repeated car washings. #7 is water soluble; that means it will break down in inclement weather or with repeated washings. It offers no lasting characteristics. It’s not supposed to be a paint protectant, but a glaze that’s safe for use on fresh paint and will give paint a wet-look.

The name sealer and reseal glaze came from it's ability to hide or mask hairline scratches temporarily, or in other words it would seal hairline scratches and as it wore off and was re-applied it would reseal, or re-hide hairline scratches.

In todays detailing lingo hairline scratches = swirls.

#7 has no protection ability and no lasting ability. So when the word sealant became more commonly used in the car wax market people were confusing the word sealer with sealant and purchasing and using the product thinking it was a paint sealant that would last for a long time and protect for a long time when in fact it's nickname is Queen-For-The-Day, in that car guys would wipe their car down with #7 to give it the wet-look for the day of the big car show but the first time the car is washed the extremely wet look the product would impart to paint would disappear as the water soluble oils would wash off with the rinse water.


Anyway, the name was changed sometime in the early 1990’s as back in the 1980’s and continuing through to even today, a lot of “paint sealants" have been introduced in the car appearance market to compete along side Carnauba car waxes. So to avoid confusion the name was changed to reflect, (no pun intended), what this product is and has been famous for over the last century and that’s create a deep, wet shine on show cars.


Bringing the dead back to life...
Besides being used as described above, #7 is also famous for its ability to revive dead, oxidized single stage paints. This has to do with the unique feeder-oil formula created by Frank Meguiar’s Jr. back in the early days of Meguiar’s which was also the early days of the Automobile. Meguiar’s was founded in 1901 and for perspective, only a few years earlier in 1886, Karl Benz was awarded a patent for a gas-fueled car and it wasn’t until 1908 that Henry Ford introduced the Model T.

I don’t know exactly when #7 was introduced but I think sometime in the early 1920’s, like 1923 or 1924. While #7 may have been introduced in the 1920’s, the formula that became #7 was around even earlier, possibly back to 1901. Here's a collection of 4 very old Mirror Bright polishes; it is my opinion that the formulas used in these products were pre-cursors to what became #7 Sealer and Reseal Glaze.

Photos Courtesy of MeguiarsOnline.com
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Here's another one...


Mike Phillips said:
Work a panel at a time, section by section
Continue working your way around one major panel until you've worked the entire panel. In this example


This is key...
Saturation Application --> The First Application
This is a mostly unknown technique and that is to let the first application penetrate and soak into the paint for up to 24 hours before wiping the product off. The idea being to really apply the product wet and work it in really well and the walk away.

The idea is to allow the heavy concentration of oils to penetrate and seep into the paint for maximum saturation before removing the product and continuing with the process. In this case I finished applying the first application of #7 around 9:00 pm and then left the #7 to soak in until the next day. I started wiping the product off then next morning right about 10:00am.

Some will argue if this works or not buy my experience is that with a porous single stage paint it does in fact help. One thing for sure it can't hurt.

Paper Test for Capillary Action
If you place a few drops of #7 onto a piece of paper and then monitor it over a few days you will see the oils in the #7 migrate or seep away from the actual drop of product. It does this through capillary action and the same thing can work to your car's paints' advantage if it's a single stage lacquer or enamel paint.

I placed a few drops about the size of a nickel on a piece of standard printer paper around 3:00pm.

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The next day I took these pictures at approximately 10:00am, (19 hours later), note how the oils in the drops of #7 have migrated outward via capillary action.

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Feeder Oils penetrate or feed the paint
This same effect can take place in a single stage paint but not only will the oils travel horizontally, they will also travel vertically, that they will penetrate downward "into" your car's paint and this is where the term feeder oils comes from as the oils penetrate into or feed the paint. The result is they will condition the paint restoring some level of workability as compared to just working on old dry paint, and they will also bring out the full richness of color, something that will showcase the beauty of your car's paint.



37 Year Old Paint Soaking in Seven...
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Also, this product doesn't really dry on it's own and it's not supposed to dry when you use it, simply apply, work in really well and then wipe the excess off and move on to a new section.

I never worry about getting 100% of it off the paint, just get most of it and then apply your wax or paint sealant.


:)
 
Not Sure of the year of this . But here of a couple of pics

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Mike, thanks! Very informative, just what I needed.

rwisejr, beautiful truck.
 
1955 Chrysler 300
Original Owner: Casey Stengel
Presented to Yankee MVP Enos Slaughter, Hall of Fame Right Fielder, better known for his years with the Cards

- Fully documented (letters from Stengel, Steinbrenner and others.)

- Original Good Condition.

- An honor to detail!

I'm so disappointed with these shots. They do not do the car justice.

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And to prove that I do know how to take a picture... here's my detailing crew... daughter Melanie and Granddaughter Giada.

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I think the oldest vehicle I've detailed is our 1990 Honda Accord LX.

 
I have worked on a hispano Suiza from late teens early 20s. The picture is in film and I need to scan it to post it. Otherwise this Ford is the next oldest.


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And like ZimRandy I also have a gold Buick Riviera...

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Soon I have a steam engine from the late 1920s coming up!

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