One step correction process - need help.

[uhohitsstevo]

So yesterday I did some testing, I used m205 and menzerna fg400 both on the hood of my vw 2016 gli, I noticed both of them removed about 95 percent of the swirls and scratches and probably could have gotten 100 percent with slightly longer work in time, I then split both in half and test fg4000 on both of them and to my surprise i didnt notice any difference in gloss or correction and if i did it was minimal maybe 1 percent. I then went a step further, i did 105 >205> fg4000. still barely a difference. I have come to the conclusion that a one step is the best for the car because it is in really good shape. What are your recommendations for a one step correction products and what pad combo would you recommend.

 

[CarolinasFinestDetailing]

A test spot is crucial here as there are many variables such as clear coat hardness, amount and severity of defects present, and expectations set to customer. It sounds like you have nailed down a combo that works for you on your GLI.

 

[PaulMys]

Many factors to consider here, but CFD said it well. If it works for you, and you're happy with it, then that's your winning formula.

Myself, I love HD Speed. A dream to work with, and produces outstanding results. I use an LC orange flat pad, as I can't seem to get enough bite from the white one on most panels on my DD Ram truck.

 

[GSKR]

I would stick to the 205 and top it with a lsp.agree on the above advice.

 

[uhohitsstevo]

Can I go from 105-fg4000 or is that to big of a jump. I am wondering if not doing 205 in the middle would make a difference ?

 

[zmcgovern45]

If you're getting 95% defect removal with M205, then that is what I would go with.

There are many compounds these days that can finish down LSP ready on certain paint colors/types, but in the end, you always want to use the least aggressive method to achieve your results.

Although FG400 or M105 may produce a nice looking finish, they are considerably more aggressive and are therefore removing more material throughout their working cycle compared to M205 which contains finer abrasives. If there is no noticeable difference in defect removal, then M205 is the clear choice in my opinion based on the information you provided.

 

[lawrenceSA]

Can I go from 105-fg4000 or is that to big of a jump. I am wondering if not doing 205 in the middle would make a difference ?

To my mind, trying to find an absolute answer regarding a specific combo is an exercise in futility.... paint hardness varies car to car, the depth of the defects vary car to car, peoples polishing techniques vary, the way products react in different environments come into play etc etc.

Instead, the way I approach every car I detail is to go into it without any pre-conceived ideas about how they paint will react to a certain combo, and start the process of my testing with the least aggressive combo. As you then increase the aggressiveness of your combo for your test spots, you will be removing be removing more defects and at the same time leaving more 'haze' in the paint.... the more aggressive the initial cut (and therefore the haze), the more likely you will need to come back and perform the refining polish. Making the call about if the refining polish is necessary is going to depend on the results you see from your test spot, the customer's expectations in terms of the level of defect removal and gloss, and if they are willing to pay for the 2nd round of polishing.

I have done a 1 step using SF4000, a 1 step using PF2300 and a 1 step using FG400, all on various VW paint, depending on the condition of the car I was working on. Likewise, I have had to do initial cuts with FG400 and followed them with PF2300, and have done initial cuts with FG400 and followed them with SF4000.

There are just so many variables at play that trying to 'copy' what worked for detailer x on a certain car may not deliver the results you are looking for on the same car.

So as others have mentioned, conducting test spot(s) is really the only way to know what will work on that car, for that customer, on that day.

Let the paint guide you.

 

[Paul A.]

So many good comments so far by all. Zach and Lawrence nailed it in my opinion. Basically the least aggressive approach that yields the best finish TO YOUR EYES is what is the objective. It sounds like you've done quite a bit of testing for what looks best to you. The only thing i might suggest is to try some different pad combos with 205 if you are looking for a true 1 step process. Like Zach said, if that yielded 95% correction it sounds like you found your answer.

I also like Lawrence's comments about working with the paint in front of you. There are so many variables that contribute to getting it right, only your test areas will show you what works best. A satisfactory final appearance after removing the least amount of paint material to get there is my approach.