One step process

duffthebluff

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Hello,

I just started my auto detailing business. One concern i have is my process of my one stepper. My normal procedure is:

1. Car wash and dry the car
2. Clay bar all paints
3. Apply one stepper cleaner and wax
4. Top with final wax

I generally remove some of the scratches but not all. Can you guys help me or recommend me anything i need to change/add with my procedure? Thanks!

Ian Duff
Shineville Auto Detailing
Manila, Philippines
 
Hello,

I just started my auto detailing business. One concern i have is my process of my one stepper. My normal procedure is:

1. Car wash and dry the car
2. Clay bar all paints
3. Apply one stepper cleaner and wax
4. Top with final wax

I generally remove some of the scratches but not all. Can you guys help me or recommend me anything i need to change/add with my procedure? Thanks!

Ian Duff
Shineville Auto Detailing
Manila, Philippines

go online and get yourself a lightweight rotary and some wool cutting pads (with a medium compound) to finish up all the scratch's and scuff you're not getting too....get proficient with the rotary and go from there :).....it's a great place to start !
 
go online and get yourself a lightweight rotary and some wool cutting pads (with a medium compound) to finish up all the scratch's and scuff you're not getting too....get proficient with the rotary and go from there :).....it's a great place to start !


One stepping with a rotary and wool pad will likely give you a bunch of holograms and a bad reputation.

There's a lot of medium polishes that may work. Sonax PF, menz 2500, fg400 (compound that finishes well), etc. Most around here will pare these with a dual action machine and a white pad.

Hopefully a few members from your location can give some more specific info. Your pricing can vary wildly from ours from what I've heard.
 
One stepping with a rotary and wool pad will likely give you a bunch of holograms and a bad reputation.

There's a lot of medium polishes that may work. Sonax PF, menz 2500, fg400 (compound that finishes well), etc. Most around here will pare these with a dual action machine and a white pad.

^^ I agreed, replacing the cleaner/wax with a medium polish (I use Menz 2500 or Rupes UHS). When applied with a DA will give you better correction over a cleaner.
 
HD Polish or Cut followed with Speed or Poxy

FG 400 followed with Menz 3-n-1 or Power Lock

FG400 Rupes 15 with LC flat orange pad on this Beat down Chevy. The one step results were amazing, zero marring.





 
I just started my auto detailing business. One concern i have is my process of my one stepper. My normal procedure is:

1. Car wash and dry the car
2. Clay bar all paints
3. Apply one stepper cleaner and wax
4. Top with final wax
Seems my definition of a one-stepper may
vary a little bit than yours.

You are using an AIO in Step #3:
a "one-stepper cleaner and wax";
and then, in Step #4, applying a "final wax".

That, to me, is a "two-stepper"... :)

I generally remove some of the scratches but not all. Can you guys help me or recommend me anything i need to change/add with my procedure? Thanks!
IMO:
You need to start using an AIO like Meguiar's D151.
That way, it will really be: "One and Done"!


Bob
 
I suggested the rotary for clearing all scratch's ...


the guy said he was new to the business :)
 
I suggested the rotary for clearing all scratch's ...


the guy said he was new to the business :)


But then he has to go back with a second step to remove the holograms from the rotary and wool, that is no longer a one step correction.

Better to define your packages and price points and sell the package that works for the customer.

All-in-one = $
One step correction = $$
Two step correction = $$$
 
I don't recall telling the OP to one step with a rotary...

jesus people....READ !
 
•Many, many years ago...

-The rotary was the only choice of a buffing-tool a
person had made available to them for the "detailing
business"...regardless their level of skill/experience.


•However, nowadays...(and with the availability
of many other types of buffing-tools----namely DAs)...

-To even suggest that someone, who is new to the
"detailing business", get a rotary and a wool pad is,
to me, injudicious.


Bob
 
Thanks for the replies guys, well I do have my Flex 3401 however it overheats, thinking of getting a Rupes as well. Is there an AIO that can be hand applied? Can D151 be applied using only hand application? I don't have much options of AIO in my place so I generally order them from Autogeek. Thanks!

Ian Duff
Shineville Auto Detailing
Manila, Philippines
 
HD Polish or Cut followed with Speed or Poxy

FG 400 followed with Menz 3-n-1 or Power Lock

FG400 Rupes 15 with LC flat orange pad on this Beat down Chevy. The one step results were amazing, zero marring.






Some really nice work with an AIO! It's like doing a 3 step process already. Were you able to remove swirls as well?
 
It was a two step, FG 400 and topped with PL. Last pick shows it's totally swirl free. This paint was seriously oxidized.

Also, if you're considering a Rupes I would highly recommend taking a serious look at the new G15 or 21. I just got the 21 and it's my new go to machine.

I did this with my new G21 w/ 5" BP.





 
Thanks for the replies guys, well I do have my Flex 3401 however it overheats, thinking of getting a Rupes as well. Is there an AIO that can be hand applied? Can D151 be applied using only hand application? I don't have much options of AIO in my place so I generally order them from Autogeek. Thanks!

Ian Duff
Shineville Auto Detailing
Manila, Philippines

You can use any AIO by hand, but don't expect any real swirl removal. AIO is all about managing your and the clients expectations. All you can really expect from an AIO is about 30%-50% removal depending on pad choice, you'll get shiny, but swirled paint and that's OK for many people and is often the most profitable for the detailer. A polish generally 50%-80%. Finally a compound and polish 80%-95%.

My flex 3401 gets pretty hot...by overheat do you mean it shuts off on you? I wouldn't expect a 3401 to work so hard when doing an AIO, if so, it sounds like you are working too large of an area or need to step up to a polish in those situations; be sure to work smarter, not harder.
 
If I'm going to use a cleaner wax, I typically won't use a finishing wax afterwards.

I did use a M105/M66 combo last week though.

The scratches and swirls needed the cut of M105. I refined the finish with M66 "Quick Detailer", which is a medium agressive cleaner wax, or polishing wax.

I've used M66 a lot on it's own too, and it's one of my favorite products to use. Excellent time saver, premium quality, very versatile.

If I do a ones step polish I like Meguiar's M86 So1o, or Menzerna PF2500 followed be machine application of a sealant. I've also used M205 on a yellow Rupes polishing pad as a one step polish before sealing.
 
HD Speed with a MF finishing disc will cut really well and finish decently well as long as the paint is not too soft.
 
duffthebuff,
Are you using a Flex machine that was made to run on the 50Hz cycle or is it the american version? I to have had issues with taking tools from the USA that run on 60Hz and plugging them in, in the PI, with an adapter only to have them do the same and overheat. I am not sure if there is a European version that would work better on your frequency.
For most of the one step that you can get, you can use them by hand, but it is time consuming and with much effort. Might I suggest to work the areas that do not need as much correction by hand and spend what time you can with your Flex on the areas that need the most correction.
Not sure if this helps much, but have a mango shake or two to cool you down, while your Flex is also cooling.

Bill
 
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