ONR big red sponge

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Junkyarddogg

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When using this, it seems most use just one bucket. How do you keep the sponge from getting too dirty? What's the method? I've been using microfiber towels but the sponge seems easier.
 
I use 1 bucket with ONR and if the sponge gets too dirty from stuck on whatnot ill spray it with powerclean and soak it in some apc mix.
 
Well, the reason i'm interested in it is because of the convenience. Seems like it would be quicker than using towels. I'm just worried about when you wring out the sponge in the bucket, the dirt will contaminate the solution which could re-introduce it to the sponge.
 
Even though Optimum recommends one bucket with ONR and the BRS I use two buckets. I have trouble placing the sponge back in filthy dirty water and then washing paint with it. Using two buckets keep the wash solution and the BRS sponge clean . On my personal cars I only use one bucket since the cars are always clean. When cleaning customers cars that are filthy I always use two buckets. I can't take the risk
 
Real Riders said:
Even though Optimum recommends one bucket with ONR and the BRS I use two buckets. I have trouble placing the sponge back in filthy dirty water and then washing paint with it. Using two buckets keep the wash solution and the BRS sponge clean . On my personal cars I only use one bucket since the cars are always clean. When cleaning customers cars that are filthy I always use two buckets. I can't take the risk
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Exactly, use a two-bucket method (I use a grit guard), except you are using ONR. Then you can use a sponge. I use the Gary Somebody method, but I used to use a sponge and two buckets and sometimes I wonder if that is faster. Seem to get no swirls either way.
 
OK thanks guys. The grit guard, are you supposed to rub the sponge against it?

Today I washed with the BRS and one bucket. When I went to dry off with the waffle weave, it still had dirt on it.
 
Did you at least hose-off or power wash the car before using the BRS??
 
Junkyarddogg said:
OK thanks guys. The grit guard, are you supposed to rub the sponge against it?

Today I washed with the BRS and one bucket. When I went to dry off with the waffle weave, it still had dirt on it.
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This happens when using the BRS on a dirty car. The sponge just loosens up the dirt and pushes it around. The drying towel actually removes the dirt. This is why I always use a rung out damp microfiber towel soaked in ONR for drying and usually use a drying aid like quick detailer to give more lubricity
 
jmsc said:
Did you at least hose-off or power wash the car before using the BRS??
Click to expand...


If you have a pressure washer and access to a water source, what would be the advantage of doing a Rinseless Wash over a traditional wash with car soap and a wash mitt?
 
jmsc said:
Did you at least hose-off or power wash the car before using the BRS??
Click to expand...

****

Real Riders said:
If you have a pressure washer and access to a water source, what would be the advantage of doing a Rinseless Wash over a traditional wash with car soap and a wash mitt?
Click to expand...

1. Most rinseless soaps seem to add some protection, not take it away like conventional soaps.

2. You can use a small quantity of DI water to to do RW after pressure washing, making drying much easier.

3. It's faster, especially if you use something like the GDWM after pressure washing. No need to continuously rinse soap off the car and wring out mitts - just throw your towels in the wash.

4. It's easier. You can do a RW with one bucket with like a gallon of DI water doing GDWM - much easier than dragging 2 X 5 gallon buckets around a car.

Anyway, this is how I do it:

1. Clean wheels/wells/exhaust tips traditionally with bucket, pressure washer, various brushes/tools, etc...

2. Foam car and pressure wash off foam. If sun is out and I'm working outside - final rinse w/ DI water.

3. Rinseless wash wet car. Use DI water in bucket and GDWM. Don't dry panels as you go along - it's a waste of time. Use DI water, and wipe streaks off when done WITH QD (car is already 90% dry from evaporation).

Since you use DI water, any "spots" easily wipe off. They will just be left over polymers from the RW solution - not dried minerals.

**** I've been using this method pretty much exclusively on my black BMW for years now. I can tell you it works very well, and doesn't cause any marring.

Did it last night...
 
To add to swanicyouth, ONR also has water softener built in which greatly reduces what spotting if you wait to try the dry until the end. I, personally, do not have a water filtration setup and cannot justify buying 5 gallons of DI water every time I need to make more ONR solution. I used the same method as listed above, but do dry after washing half the car, just the way I've always done it.

I love the BRS only after using it a few times now, it has saved me time not only during the wash process but I'm not wasting time washing and folding MF towels too.
 
jmsc said:
Did you at least hose-off or power wash the car before using the BRS??
Click to expand...

No, I live in an apartment hence the reason I am using a rinseless.

I could drive 20 mins to a self wash bay and hose most of the dirt off and drive home and do it. But then I might as well do a traditional wash while I am there. Also I would have to wait until the car cools down before ONR.
 
swanicyouth said:
****





3. Rinseless wash wet car. Use DI water in bucket and GDWM. Don't dry panels as you go along - it's a waste of time. Use DI water, and wipe streaks off when done WITH QD (car is already 90% dry from evaporation).

Since you use DI water, any "spots" easily wipe off. They will just be left over polymers from the RW solution - not dried minerals.


I've never thought of this. Do you think it'd work washing outside too. I'll try this way next wash. Sure would save time
Click to expand...
 
I use 2 bucket system with the "blue version". I use the Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. Two things happen, wash solution lasts for months and majority of dirt ends up in the rinse bucket. Using this method means I can do my complete car (not the wheels) in about 20 minutes tops. So far sponge has lasted 2 years and if I properly clean it it looks almost like new (caution when wringing out not to twist the center part as it will tear and now you have 2 small ones).
 
swanicyouth said:
****



1. Most rinseless soaps seem to add some protection, not take it away like conventional soaps.

2. You can use a small quantity of DI water to to do RW after pressure washing, making drying much easier.

3. It's faster, especially if you use something like the GDWM after pressure washing. No need to continuously rinse soap off the car and wring out mitts - just throw your towels in the wash.

4. It's easier. You can do a RW with one bucket with like a gallon of DI water doing GDWM - much easier than dragging 2 X 5 gallon buckets around a car.

Anyway, this is how I do it:

1. Clean wheels/wells/exhaust tips traditionally with bucket, pressure washer, various brushes/tools, etc...

2. Foam car and pressure wash off foam. If sun is out and I'm working outside - final rinse w/ DI water.

3. Rinseless wash wet car. Use DI water in bucket and GDWM. Don't dry panels as you go along - it's a waste of time. Use DI water, and wipe streaks off when done WITH QD (car is already 90% dry from evaporation).

Since you use DI water, any "spots" easily wipe off. They will just be left over polymers from the RW solution - not dried minerals.

**** I've been using this method pretty much exclusively on my black BMW for years now. I can tell you it works very well, and doesn't cause any marring.

Did it last night...
Click to expand...
I like how you do it.

I do have a question...

What foam do you use? There's some people out there who say foaming is a complete waste, which I highly disagree with.
 
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