Opinions: Opti-coat or CQuartz

ImpressiveImageDetailing said:
IME HeavyMetal they both are very good products.
From my applications of both,I tend to use OC on vehicles that have soft paint because CQ has to be buffed (wiped) off and the CQ induced swirls when doing so.I have CQ'd (5) vehicles and I only get marring with the vehicles with soft paint.This is using the super soft blue suede CQ MF's.
The OC is a lil (very little) more finicky to apply but you don't have to wipe it off (only high spots),hence not leaving any marring on soft paint.
I have a 2001' Black TransAm (Soft Paint) that is OC'd and a 2006' Magnesium Chrysler 300 (Harder Paint) that is CQ'd.
So my personal rule of thumb for customers vehicle is:
Soft paint = OC
Harder/Hard Paint = CQ

Again,Just My Opinion
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This is a very good point you made. My car has really soft paint and scratches just by looking at it. I guess OC will work best for my car.
 
I've actually read the opposite that CQ would be better for soft paints. Ah, I don't know anymore!
 
pfix said:
Being able to layer the C Quartz after a paint chip repair is reason enough for me to go with the C Quartz. I absolutely love the Optimum line but I am not willing to compound an entire panel to use touch up paint.
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I'm wondering if you would really need to remove the OC from the "whole" panel. Why couldn't one just section of an area with tape, polish off the OC and reapply to just that area. I bet some will say there will be a transition line but I really wonder if that is so.


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ImpressiveImageDetailing said:
IME HeavyMetal they both are very good products.
From my applications of both,I tend to use OC on vehicles that have soft paint because CQ has to be buffed (wiped) off and the CQ induced swirls when doing so.I have CQ'd (5) vehicles and I only get marring with the vehicles with soft paint.This is using the super soft blue suede CQ MF's.
The OC is a lil (very little) more finicky to apply but you don't have to wipe it off (only high spots),hence not leaving any marring on soft paint.
I have a 2001' Black TransAm (Soft Paint) that is OC'd and a 2006' Magnesium Chrysler 300 (Harder Paint) that is CQ'd.
So my personal rule of thumb for customers vehicle is:
Soft paint = OC
Harder/Hard Paint = CQ

Again,Just My Opinion
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So, to clarify, was it the suede mf's doing the marring? Have you ever tried the makeup pads with CQ for cars with soft paint? I have never used the suede mf's so I can't comment on them. I use a very soft mf to buff the CQ. (I also toss them in a bucket with strong APC to save them). I have never had marring with the makeup pads.
 
Deep Gloss Auto Salon said:
I'm wondering if you would really need to remove the OC from the "whole" panel. Why couldn't one just section of an area with tape, polish off the OC and reapply to just that area. I bet some will say there will be a transition line but I really wonder if that is so.


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Jason, Dr G recommends compounding the whole panel and re-doing it.
 
richy said:
Jason, Dr G recommends compounding the whole panel and re-doing it.
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Hey Richy: I understand but just trying to push the envelope.... I just wonder why the recommendation and am just trying to imagine what the adverse effects could be.


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Tom Weed said:
I have both, just put CQ on the gf's black car for my first use, and after doing the prep work, used a little round make up remover like CEE DOG used in his testing, well, the car was "sqeeky" clean and the applicator was not totally primed and it marred the hood. I tossed those and used the cotton applicator that came with the CQ and did the rest of the car. Last night I rebuffed the hood to remove the CQ and the marring and after polishing and stripping the hood, I reapplied CQ. I found once I got a feel for applying it, waiting around 15 minutes and going back over it with a MF, it was not bad at all and I REALLY LIKE IT! Next up will be my black car and I will use the OC so I can compare the two...
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the applicator should be warped with the small suedes on the black strip, then to pour on the suedes the cquartz, not to used the applicator itself!!
make sure you wait enough time until cquartz cure, if you wipe it off too early it could marr with the semi crystals particles. 15 min. is too short time! for any weather. only above 30 deg.C. its the right time to wipe off.


ImpressiveImageDetailing said:
IME HeavyMetal they both are very good products.
From my applications of both,I tend to use OC on vehicles that have soft paint because CQ has to be buffed (wiped) off and the CQ induced swirls when doing so.I have CQ'd (5) vehicles and I only get marring with the vehicles with soft paint.This is using the super soft blue suede CQ MF's.
The OC is a lil (very little) more finicky to apply but you don't have to wipe it off (only high spots),hence not leaving any marring on soft paint.
I have a 2001' Black TransAm (Soft Paint) that is OC'd and a 2006' Magnesium Chrysler 300 (Harder Paint) that is CQ'd.
So my personal rule of thumb for customers vehicle is:
Soft paint = OC
Harder/Hard Paint = CQ

Again,Just My Opinion
Click to expand...
we use cquartz on Japs cars in the east, as you all know very soft paint.. no problem at all! , the small suedes supplied are not for wipe off!! they are for applying the cquartz, for wipe off you need short loops mf, not plush, or terry cloth MF.
when wiping , you need to remember, this is not wax! , you dont strongly buff the surface!
wipe it off gently in straight lines, turn the MF to other side between each panel done.
another small tip from one of our pros is.. after first wipe off .. repeat again with another MF ("fresh") this will remove the rest of "clouds" if left. gentle wiping .
 
Wow Avi, thank you! There was a bunch of things in that post I had never heard before.
 
Avi@CarPro said:
15 min. is too short time! for any weather. only above 30 deg.C. its the right time to wipe off.
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Avi,

Thanks for the instructions. Having a little trouble with your English. Are you saying that the only time you would wipe off CQuartz in 15 minutes is IF the temp is 30C (86F for us Americans) or higher? IE, the CQuartz cure time is temperature dependent and higher temps cure it faster.
 
dougaross said:
How do you know when the OC is completely gone? What happens if some reamins?
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After you polish it off and then strip it of polishing oils there will be no beading and the water will stick to the panel.
 
CEE DOG said:
Wow Avi, thank you! There was a bunch of things in that post I had never heard before.
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thank you, nothing special, its well written in my site user guide.

HeavyMetal said:
Avi,

Thanks for the instructions. Having a little trouble with your English. Are you saying that the only time you would wipe off CQuartz in 15 minutes is IF the temp is 30C (86F for us Americans) or higher? IE, the CQuartz cure time is temperature dependent and higher temps cure it faster.
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Sorry for my poor English,
Cquartz curing vary on the room temp. and humidity..(average humidity 50%)
higher temp it get, faster it cures..

ill give some samples :
15 Deg.C : 30~40 min wait for wipe off
20 Deg. C : 20~30 min. waiting
30 Deg. C : 10~15 min

again its not exact science to measure the timing, but around these figures you need to wait. as Corey tested there is some kind of white/Grey haze once its ready to wipe even if you pass the time for wiping no harm done, it will be little more difficult to wipe off thats all, but still possible with very good results.
on the glass it cure faster!! , so need to do glass panel 1 by 1 , on glass in 5~10 min it cures.
i dont know how much its in Farahnite so pls exchange yourself

here is short video done by our agent in Finland , which you can see how he use the applicator warped with the suede MF and apply the cquartz, this warping way is to make the applicator re-usable for future coats, the suede will get hard the next day , so need to damp it:

[video=youtube_share;Da10NISZm_s] - Smartservice - CQuartz[/video]
 
Avi@CarPro said:
Sorry for my poor English,
Cquartz curing vary on the room temp. and humidity..(average humidity 50%)
higher temp it get, faster it cures..

ill give some samples :
15 Deg.C : 30~40 min wait for wipe off
20 Deg. C : 20~30 min. waiting
30 Deg. C : 10~15 min

again its not exact science to measure the timing, but around these figures you need to wait. as Corey tested there is some kind of white/Grey haze once its ready to wipe even if you pass the time for wiping no harm done, it will be little more difficult to wipe off thats all, but still possible with very good results.
on the glass it cure faster!! , so need to do glass panel 1 by 1 , on glass in 5~10 min it cures.
i dont know how much its in Farahnite so pls exchange yourself

here is short video done by our agent in Finland , which you can see how he use the applicator warped with the suede MF and apply the cquartz, this warping way is to make the applicator re-usable for future coats, the suede will get hard the next day , so need to damp it:
Click to expand...

No need to apologize. English is a tough language, and very difficult if it's not your native language. Heck, most English-speaking people can't speak it all that well.

Anyway, I thought that's what you meant, just wanted to be sure. Now the "warp" did have me confused. I thought you meant "bend"; you mean wrap.

I'm really looking forward to trying several of you products. Certainly CQuartz is on my list, along with Reload, IronX and PERL. I've read a lot of posts about your products. They are very highly thought of. I'm glad AG is now carrying them.

Thanks again for you quick response. :dblthumb2:
 
Sorry , Bend is another way to call it, same as he do in the video...
thank you for the compliments.. i hope you will like them all..
we try to do it different..
any of the product we sell have an extra benefit , kind of "twist", i dont know how to call it in English.
we think that the future will be less products to cover more targets, we will never make a product which has individual application. but thats now became off topic....:xyxthumbs:
 
Avi,

These new times you posted!!

Why then does it say Wait 5min. in the product documentation.

Does that mean my new purchase is old stock and an old formulation?

Should I wait 5 mins or use your the times you just posted?
 
gmck said:
Avi,

These new times you posted!!

Why then does it say Wait 5min. in the product documentation.

Does that mean my new purchase is old stock and an old formulation?

Should I wait 5 mins or use your the times you just posted?
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Hi
I dont know what documentation you got exactly, the formula you got now is the latestest, we dont stock Cquartz, its produced in very low quantities each batch.
maybe its old brochure you got, always refer to the my user guide in our website , this is the latest with recent updates and tips.
 
The C.Quartz came from the Australian distributor. The 5 minute instruction is on both a 4 page brochure of all your products and a separate brochure just on C.Quartz. Each page of each brochure reads AQUARTZ.net.

Sounds like someone has stuffed up big time then...

What is the likely affect of having wiped off after 5 mins, instead of the correct time of 20-30 minutes.

Do I have remove what I've already done?

Wasn't AQuartz your previous product.
 
gmck said:
The C.Quartz came from the Australian distributor. The 5 minute instruction is on both a 4 page brochure of all your products and a separate brochure just on C.Quartz. Each page of each brochure reads AQUARTZ.net.

Sounds like someone has stuffed up big time then...

What is the likely affect of having wiped off after 5 mins, instead of the correct time of 20-30 minutes.

Do I have remove what I've already done?

Wasn't AQuartz your previous product.
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Sorry if it confused you.. no worry about wiping after 5 min , what temp. you had?
i guess you removed some of the coat, you can tell by the beading effect on the car.
if there is no beading, means you removed most of it.
aquartz was my previous item yes.
if you have troubles , pls contact me by email and ill try to help you.
 
Temperature was about 20 C.

Surface is beading ok.

Why is the Australian distributor documentation incorrect?
 
Avi,

I was just doing another C.Quartz panel today when I happened to check the label on the bottle. It says wait 10 minutes where as the documentation stated 5 minutes.

There is definitely something wrong with your quality control with all these different times. I can't help but suspect that the product I'm using is not the same as you are now shipping.

Can you please explain? I've already read where you told Corey he was using older product, but I only purchased mine last week and the Aussie distributor has only had stock for a week or two.

What is going on???

Why is the formulation changing?

How about date stamping your bottles with batch information.
 
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