Opti-coat 2.0 question
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FUNX650
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•I have been watching from the sidelines at what appears to have been a contest between people applying the Opti-Coatings.
•One person would would kinda chuckle and say that it doesn't matter how much of a particular Opti-Coatings that so and so used...
-They only used a-amount to coat this or that vehicle.
-Then someone would pipe up and say that using a-amount was too much: That they only used b-amount...saving a lot of out-of-pocket expense;
-{yet they still charged Customers a hefty (to me) up-charge for even less of an Opti-Coating film-build!!}
-Then it was c-amount; d-amount; etc.; etc.; etc.
•It seemed like a game was being played.
-"I Can Name That Song In ____ Notes"
Then:
•I then heard, time after time, of Opti-Coatings' "failures".
-No wonder!!
-With such little film-build---it was inevitable, IMHO.
•5 mL per vehicle?
-That's an adequate amount?
-And you're charging how much!?!?
__________________________________________________
Bob
•One person would would kinda chuckle and say that it doesn't matter how much of a particular Opti-Coatings that so and so used...
-They only used a-amount to coat this or that vehicle.
-Then someone would pipe up and say that using a-amount was too much: That they only used b-amount...saving a lot of out-of-pocket expense;
-{yet they still charged Customers a hefty (to me) up-charge for even less of an Opti-Coating film-build!!}
-Then it was c-amount; d-amount; etc.; etc.; etc.
•It seemed like a game was being played.
-"I Can Name That Song In ____ Notes"
Then:
•I then heard, time after time, of Opti-Coatings' "failures".
-No wonder!!
-With such little film-build---it was inevitable, IMHO.
•5 mL per vehicle?
-That's an adequate amount?
-And you're charging how much!?!?
__________________________________________________
Bob
swanicyouth
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- Mar 3, 2011
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I'd love to know how you can get any appreciable film build with 5-10ccs of OptiCoat per vehicle - when you can't even wax a car with 5-10ccs of wax or sealant (volume).
Now I know a wax/sealant film is negligible and much of the "extra" is buffed off. But, it seems a lot of the OC flashes off.
My gut tells me the #s don't add up. I could do the calculations by somehow trying to figure out the surface area of an average car - but don't really care enough now the point is moot.
All my success with OC 2.0 was applying the thickest coat possible without leaving streaks - than repeating an hour later.
Of course, all this doesn't mean much now the product doesn't exist. I remember someone from Optimum mentioning that OC 2.0 was "superior" to glass type coatings because it was measurably thicker.
I wonder how that will be spun now.
Now I know a wax/sealant film is negligible and much of the "extra" is buffed off. But, it seems a lot of the OC flashes off.
My gut tells me the #s don't add up. I could do the calculations by somehow trying to figure out the surface area of an average car - but don't really care enough now the point is moot.
All my success with OC 2.0 was applying the thickest coat possible without leaving streaks - than repeating an hour later.
Of course, all this doesn't mean much now the product doesn't exist. I remember someone from Optimum mentioning that OC 2.0 was "superior" to glass type coatings because it was measurably thicker.
I wonder how that will be spun now.
one would begin to wonder if the formula may even be new, or maybe just a slight change and a smaller amount sold once they find out how little people can get by with?
silverfox
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- Oct 5, 2010
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This opticoat thing is getting old. If their intent was to flood the detailing world with endless commentary...fine, they have our attention. Doesn't change anything. The whole permanent thing was baloney in the first place. Time for a reality check. Coatings don't eliminate maintenance polishing. They eventually get dulled by scratches and swirls and the environment just as non coated surfaces. What they do offer however is crazy easy washing and drying to make maintaining paint easier and thus reducing human and environmentally induced defects.
wouldn't they offer the ability to do these maintenance polishes without worrying about going through too much clearcoat? isn't that the point of having a thick and durable outer coating, so when it does get scratched you can get a polish or two out of it before reapplying another coat years down the line?
or just be the jo-blo who gets it applied, and just leaves it there, where it won't go away, and hopefully keeps the car protected from uv exposure for all time (debatable).
FUNX650
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Then don't perpetuate it.
However...
Since I, on the other hand, believe your "Opti-Coat thing" assessment is unfounded:
Do hope the "Opti-Coat thing" is preserved from oblivion!
Bob
As a topic for discussion silverfox, the coatings seem to be as permanent as layers of clear, they are good and long lasting, but even unmaintained clearcoat is destined to fail you see, where is the line supposed to be drawn when saying something is permanent? I believe the coatings should be considered this way. Only removable by polishing or sanding.
Spoke to a friend who does cquartzuk installs frequently, and they sent one of the cars he did in to get bodywork done, the coating was so durable that they couldnt get new paint to stick to it even after scuffing and using your typical strong paint prep solvents
Spoke to a friend who does cquartzuk installs frequently, and they sent one of the cars he did in to get bodywork done, the coating was so durable that they couldnt get new paint to stick to it even after scuffing and using your typical strong paint prep solvents
tdekany
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A1 - The whole idea behind OC or other 9H type of coatings is to "prevent" swirls and scratches. However, the coating itself is only 1 pc of the puzzle.
A2 - The end user is thought to properly maintain that finish. Right products along with proper washing, drying and maintenance techniques.
I am not sure how much experience you have with coatings, but you may want to start reading up, because your post sound very ignorant. Do you even know what coating are?
true. coatings were never meant to eliminate polishing. they were just meant to help keep you from getting to that point.
properly washing a car from the fresh paint all the way til it blows up in a fiery death will keep you from needing to polish as well. but the clearcoat (as long as its not the merc ceramiclear or the ppg version) won't be as hard as the coating itself, the benefit of the coating is all the uv protection, ease of wash, with a durable surface to help prevent scratching.
lots of research should go into peoples time instead of relying on word of mouth when looking into new products. that or lots of testing
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ok cool. yeah I did not do any trim or bumpers. Strickly panel paint so hopefully the 5cc (or so) gave me enough to have not wasted my money since I can't just reapply now (assuming it really won't stick).
Do you guys still wax your vehicles after OC 2.0?
builthatch
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you can layer it right now as per OPT. you have a general window of 30 days, but that can be less, so if you are gonna do it, do it as soon as you can prior to that. imo i'd go over the flats again first (hood, roof) and then with whatever is left, start on the front fenders, lower rockers, etc.
if it were me and it was humid (enhances curing) and more than a few days post initial application, i'd probably go over it with OPT finish polish and a no cut/finishing pad as part of my prep, but from what i've seen stated by OPT personnel, it's not necessary as long as it's 1. clean and 2. in the initial curing window.
if it were me and it was humid (enhances curing) and more than a few days post initial application, i'd probably go over it with OPT finish polish and a no cut/finishing pad as part of my prep, but from what i've seen stated by OPT personnel, it's not necessary as long as it's 1. clean and 2. in the initial curing window.
tdekany
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allenk4
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As someone said earlier; the folks affiliated with OPT reference dehydration during the curing process:
LINK
Chris Thomas
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Posted 18 April 2011 - 06:47 PM
12 hours is sufficient cure time for water exposure, but Opti Coat will continue to dehydrate and harden over a few days as it is exposed to heat.
builthatch
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Humidity enhances curing? You do not want to apply it in humidity.oke:
it will cure quicker if relative humidity is high since it is a single component resin that is reactive with moisture - from Dr. G's mouth to my ears. i wasn't recommending applying it at any particular time but some people don't have a choice.
builthatch said:
tdekany
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Heat and high humidity = not very fun time - OCP needs to be wiped off immedietly or you will have a very long night.
rops:
tdekany
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As someone said earlier; the folks affiliated with OPT reference dehydration during the curing process:
LINK
Chris Thomas
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Posted 18 April 2011 - 06:47 PM
12 hours is sufficient cure time for water exposure, but Opti Coat will continue to dehydrate and harden over a few days as it is exposed to heat.
Actually, OC can be driven in rain, 60 minutes after application.
allenk4
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No Doubt. That is one advantage it has over the CQuartz offerings
Still trying to wrap my head around the 2 micron claim for Opti-Coat 2.0 and others that claim 1 micron or more
The dehydration reference by Chris Thomas was cited versus the thought that the volume of solvent that flashes off is replaced by humidity (hydrogen & oxygen molecules)
Originally Posted by Nicholas@Autowerx
I always thought the humidity in the air played a part in the polymerization of these types of coatings. So, perhaps any solvent molecules lost during curing are actually replaced with hydrogen and oxygen molecules therefore allowing the coating to achieve maximum cross linking and film build thickness. I could be way off though...
builthatch
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Heat and high humidity = not very fun time - OCP needs to be wiped off immedietly or you will have a very long night.
welcome to my life in the summer and early fall.